eenymason

More than a feeling - Boston

Speaking from experience, I believe it's a (simpler) matter of everybody knowing their place in the mix. A lead guitar solo should be up in the mix, at a similar level where the vocal level is, when the singer is singing. I'm sure the singer wouldn't like it if everybody was so loud that they couldn't be heard over the mix. It's a big turnoff for me, playing with players, who may otherwise be quite talented, but ego makes them think that they need to be louder than is actually necessary. Clearly having a 2nd guitarist in the mix makes for a fuller sound, and thus less "room" for a solo to be heard. Make sure you have a decent boost from rhythm level to solo level. As well as using a "boost pedal" (whichever type you choose), I also use the volume pedal if necessary, when using the Pod, (taking it from anywhere around 70% up to 100%), and when I'm just jamming at the local blues jam, plugging straight into the amp, I use the volume knob on my guitar. It's surprising the number of players who don't adopt this appreciation of dynamics, and show others some respect, by not playing over the top of solos. I have walked out of pubs/clubs, rather than listen to an otherwise good band, but where everybody thinks they need to be louder than everybody else, (particularly guitarists), and it just sounds like a mess. You may disagree with my opinion, and that's fine. Ha, bjnette just pipped me at the post with his reply, which I just read, and thus edited this... Good and valid points, particularly about the egos, and "distortion muddying tone". Ask everybody (not just the 2nd guitarist), to be aware of playing too loud, (and also too busy)...

Actually I was hoping to find the "Line 6 Official/Deadly Earnest Stance Regarding Serious and Unresolved Issues" door, but couldn't see the sign anywhere, and heard some kinda scuffle on the other side of this door, and next thing ya know, I was dragged in by the sudden urge to shout my particular scenario. It's probably not unlike a whole lotta other people's scenarios, but maybe not all ended up with a quietly relieved ending like mine. I might keep shuffling around the darkened corridors with my trusty head-lamp, and try and search out the "Arguments" door, cos I'm feeling a might angsty as you can tell. :ph34r:

If it IS an official Line 6 stance that both outputs NOT be used simultaneously, that information needs to be put out there in an official way, not simply something heard through chinese whispers on this, and/or, other forums. I only stumbled across it by accident on this forum. I can confirm from experience, that both outputs can be used for an extended period of time, without anything within the cavity of the variax spontaneously combusting/frying/pooping it's pants. I used this method of connecting to a Pod HD500, and Voice Live for approximately a year or so, for, on average 2 gigs per week. I don't question psarkissian's opinion that it shouldn't be done (regardless of the actual chance of damage), but I don't think the current dissemination of information (read, lack thereof) regarding this issue is anywhere near good enough. If anyone has fried the particular component in question, unknowingly, by connecting both outputs simultaneously, then the way I see it, Line 6 is liable, for not making it a part of documentation going out with the guitars. Maybe in reality, it has happened so infrequently, (with the requisite 666 planets aligning at the appropriate moment), that Line 6 figure it'd cost more to put it out there officially, than repair such a small number of capacitors. Well of course it would, when the unsuspecting customer is paying for said repair!!!

I'm guessing that only a privileged few have seen inside one of these, by the deafening silence here... Tried googling it? You would think someone with the knowledge would be lurking here, but the acoustics were release a fair while ago now... You need a proctologist-friend to come around one day when the requisite camera is available. :unsure:

Dunno if you have this sorted - I would check the modular connections from the jack onto the PCB. I had intermittent loss of connectivity to Pod Hd500 via VDI, and swapped out the VDI connection from my newer (JTV) jack plate assembly which I replaced when I did my vaxplant, as I wasn't sure about the longevity of the original. So either by re-seating on the PCB, or going back to the original VDI from the 600, I have now had a problem free run for a good while. Maybe dumb questions, but have you tried more than one TRS lead to the A/B box? Is the A/B box definitely working?

Of course, put it first in the chain. And for what it's worth, before I was aware of the unofficial Line 6 stance regarding the "impending doom" awaiting anyone who dared to connect both outputs on the Variax, I did exactly as you want to do, (connected from the 1/4" jack out to a Voice Live), while also connecting to the HD500 via VDI, for approximately a 12 month period, until the Voice Live's switches began to act up, and I just ditched it. The Variax has had issues intermittently, nothing that I haven't been able to rectify. No PCB's have been harmed in the process thus far. :rolleyes:

Hi to fellow Variax users in Australia. I am wondering if anyone is interested in taking "excess to my needs" stuff off my hands? All fully functional. Usual wear and tear as to be expected from 2nd hand parts.... I have a 300 and a 600 neck, body, and leftover electronics after transplanting into Strat copies. I have complete bridge/piezo assemblies, as well as a couple of spare, new piezos. The fretboard on the 600 (maple) is more worn, as it was my "workhorse" for a few years, but still plays ok - a fret dress will see more life out of it, but fret replacement is looming. The 300 (rosewood) fretboard has much more life left in it. Also I sanded back the neck on both of them to make them more comfortable in my hands, i.e. "non-sticky". Other bits n bobs include the tremolo springs and claw (600), and vol/tone knobs, pickup selector knobs. All other parts were used in the transplants obviously, including the "bank selector" knobs. I posted an ad on a Facebook page for Guitar/Amp Buy/Sell in Sydney, but no interest was piqued, so I though I'd put it up here. If you're interested, please private message me and ask questions/make an offer on any or all items. Pictures available to those interested.... I live an hour or so north of Sydney, on the central coast, and pick up is preferred, though local delivery/meet up is possible within reason. Thanks for looking!

I have a 300 and a 600, and two Pod HD500s. Communication with Workbench is not a problem using the Pod HD500 as the interface in my experience. I sold the USB interface, when I bought my second HD500, considering it excess to my needs, and I saw people without Pod HD500 wanting to connect to Workbench, so it went to a new user that "needed" it. I'll admit that occasionally, it "loses connection" when updating variax with a bundle. Big deal - start again, and go make a coffee......

I don't get that they'd come back to being "flat." It makes sense that if the strings are "grabbing" at the piezos, then when the bar is released, and the bridge settles in it's resting position, then the strings should be sharp, not flat. This has happened to me with Strat whammy bars, to varying degrees. I find that the traditional style bars (secured by 6 screws, not the knife edge into two posts), to be better for returning to "zero", when set up correctly. My variax 600 wore badly on one side, causing metal fatigue, and chunks to come off it - useless! Big Bends Nut Sauce on the nut was good, and if you don't want to apply that to your saddles, then graphite would suffice there, when you change strings. Maybe your actual piezos are moving forward when there's less pressure on them from the strings at the low point of your "dive-bomb". This could cause them to come back "flat", if you think about it. Also, Graphtech Ghost saddles would (I'd say from experience), improve whatever tuning problem you have using your whammy bar.

probably too late for you now, but anyway... if you don't reply, quoting my reply, I will probably miss if you ask me a specific question.... If you are still looking at fixing your variax, see reply to Martyn Buxton, for further info.

Open up the guitar (assuming you've cleared all the other possible external connection solutions - make sure you've tried VDI as well as power/connection via supplied power supply/TRS lead), and check the connections between PCBs, and also to the output jack assembly, and earths. Search (both this forum, and "google", for hints on opening her up if you haven't done it before). If you can't find any info you need regarding this procedure, reply (quoting this reply), and I'll try and help with questions. Good luck.

Yep, big reverb, and/or tight slapback delay, but it's not always so noticeable - in the beginning of the solo it is for sure. I'm personally not too big a fan of delays, though I know a lot of people are. I just believe it may as well not be there if you can't hear it, and most of the delays I find loaded into custom-tone patches, (usually designed for soloing), are just a waste of DSP IMHO. I'd just find the right kind of reverb for it.

Have you searched at all for variax transplant info in these forums? There has been a load of info shared by guys that have done xplants, though what you're wanting to do is not so easy. I have done a 300 and a 600, both into Strat clones. I can confirm (from experience), the pcbs, etc, can be removed from the "coffin". This will obviously save on space required when routing to house it, but you need to be careful as pcbs are not exactly solid as rocks. You'll need to line the cavity with something for shielding, I used aluminium foil, but you could use suitable paint instead I guess. For a more advanced build, including connecting mag pickups, it's a lot more convoluted, as the original variax circuitry didn't allow for mag pickup connection, and a completely separate wiring to that of the variax, (meaning a separate jack output also), has been touted as the only way to ensure no interference between mags and piezos. My suggestion is to simply go the more recent JTV 89 route (you know, the pointy metal Ibanez kinda one), where everything has been done for you, with the flexibility of having both mags, and modelling within the one circuitry. Probably not the answer you wanted, but I believe the job you want to do, though I'm sure is not impossible, would be loaded with unanswered questions, and you may well be the first to pull it off. Good luck with it!

Mainly in the fingers, but I'd say a Tele, through a pushed (power amp volume, not pre-amp) Fender style, or even the Dr Z - if you got the Vintage pack, try the Pete Anderson Custom, or maybe AC30! It's that kinda on edge of breakup crunch that we so love!

I'm writing this from memory, so excuse me if I miss something, but.... I really cannot vouch for it's use with Acoustic 700, but with electrics, once you have created a patch within Workbench, exit the patch edit window, click send, and Workbench will ask you to confirm you want to send the patch(es), and write over any current patch(es) on the Variax. Until you do so, the patch will not be saved on your variax, for you to be able to select manually. Also note, that if you are using a Pod HD 500/X/Pro, you are able to select the patch to be linked in a preset patch within the Pod, but that also the original patch you saved over is still available via this method. e.g. if you want to choose say a Tele Thinline to set up a "Keef" open G tuning, but still want to be able to have access to the same patch on the variax that you saved "over" in order to be able to put the open G tuning in it's place, the original patch is found in the Varax, via Pod HD edit, as one of the (F) for factory presets, and the new G tuning is there under (U) for user presets. On the Variax itself however, the G tuning has replaced the factory preset, and is not selectable using the controls on the guitar. Maybe copy the factory patch you prefer into the "custom" bank (1 or 2), and save it there, unless there are patches that you never use. I have done both, as I have a lot of different tunings, etc I use regularly.

I THINK I've fixed it. Saturday's gig will be the big test... I had replaced the jack plate assemblies on both vaxplants with the new JTV assembies complete with spring loaded VDI cover. I took the VDI connection out of one of the old ones and replaced the newer one. Voila - problem gone. Maybe just re-seating connections did it, not sure, but I'd sure be disappointed if the newer VDI connection was lesser quality than the original one.....

People out there still using Explorer? Seriously gobsmacked here.... :rolleyes:

If you have the tone you want through your (old school) power amp and cab, then stay old school and mic the cab instead of using xlr to the board. Although, if you're going full sims in the HD (i.e. cab/mic) why not try xlr to the board and see what the sound-person thinks. If you're only using amp sims, then def mic the cab you're using.

Two vaxes, 3 cables, two HD500s. :rolleyes:

Hi guys, Over a period of time my preferred vaxplant has become more unstable with it's connection to my Pod HD500. It started out really a very rare occurrence, and now is barely connecting. I thought it may be the jackplate connection on the PCB, (and I'm going to have a look closely if any of the pins are out of place inside the VDI output, but the intermittent thing has me doubting this as the problem), but I get a good connection through the jack output to a normal amp, using a battery for power, so the connection to PCB must/should be good surely? Would there be something on the board itself to cause this problem? I would love to NOT have to take it to a service agent if possible. I'm not exactly desperate with this problem, as I can still connect to the Pod using the jack output (though obviously losing preset guitar patch control), and I have another which I usually only use as a backup, because I prefer the feel of the maple 'board one. Anyone ever have this problem and manage to resolve it themselves? Any ideas gratefully accepted. :)

Just a thought.. Try setting the patch up, saving it to the Pod, exit Edit (or simply pull the USB), and try to use the expression pedal to do what it's set up for. Not speaking from this particular experience, but sometimes using the unit while it's connected to Edit can cause weird behaviour.

No offence taken! I hadn't thought to clarify which version, so my bad really!

I have the original Workbench. It must surely be in WB HD also? Why would a useful tool like that be removed in a newer updated WB? :rolleyes:

Interesting to see that in workbench, it tells you when your signal is clipping - the word magically appears then disappears up in the right hand corner of the screen - I'd never noticed it before - I was making some adjustments to models last night and saw it for the first time. Maybe take note of this feature, cos there sure ain't no way to tell if it's clipping in Helix or HD500 etc. A simple feature to add you would think, if it's there in workbench, why not in HD edit, or Helix edit, or indeed on the units themselves?