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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/24/2025 in all areas

  1. Trying to use Poly Sustain on the HX One like I would on the Helix Devices - where you can set it to Footswitch to Momentary to capture whatever notes you are playing at the moment. Going through manuals and videos and I can't seem to find a way to edit the footswitch bypass settings like you could on other Helix devices. Hoping it's possible.
    1 point
  2. If using a meter ( I love the https://youlean.co/youlean-loudness-meter/ as posted above), make sure you are setting it to the correct level for the type of meter. I will get the names wrong, but the DBFS meter is at unity at -18db, not zero. There are a lot of posts about this. I try to have my patches average -18 db with lead bumps not going over -12 or -13 db. You also have to take into account which guitar you are using. I normally play Telecaster or the Revstar with p90's. The Revstar is much hotter. I use the Tele to level the presets with the output block at 0, with a lead bump that ups the output block to 2.5 to 3.5. I then take those same presets and copy them to a "Revstar" area on the setlist and just change the level of the output block to -4.2 and -2.0. just some other things to think about.
    1 point
  3. What you have to understand is that each amp modeled in the Helix is modeled directly from the circuitry of the actual physical amp. Amps rarely behave the same way and a 100 watt amp set to 5 will be a very different volume than a 50 watt amp set to 5. The most accurate way to level out these situations is to do as has been pointed above and do it the way it will be done in a studio or live performance through "gain staging" which is the process of adjusting the signal level of the output coming from the Helix so they're exactly the same on a channel receiving the signal. The easiest way is to have either a mixing board or a DAW that will display the signal strength on a meter and, as it has been mentioned above, adjust the channel volume and/or the level of the output block until the signal is always at the same level. That's the only way to make sure everything is at the same level without affecting the tone and makes it very easy for any sound engineer to gain stage your Helix.
    1 point
  4. The easiest and most bulletproof way is to have the same exact signal chain throughout your presets (minus different delays, chorus, reverb). In the practical sense, you absolutely should not change your sound drastically between songs, otherwise it will be a nightmare for the sound guy. Even if you level your presets in terms of loudness, due to the nature of how sound works in a band context, there will be volume discrepancies because of how each distortion pedal/amp are EQ'ed. You can have 2 presets be the same loudness, but one uses a Vox AC30, while the other uses a Marshall, and they will behave completely differently. Oftentimes, these differences will be apparent only when you play through a powerful PA. Depending on how the sound person sets your sound, these differences will be different each time. Imagine instead of having one sound check, having 20 different sound checks--one for each one of your potential sounds. Each preset is essentially its own independent rig, and in order for guitar to be sitting in the mix correctly, each rig has to be sound-checked and adjusted independently. So bottom line: pick a setup and stick with it. Just because you can have different amps in every song, doesn't mean you should. Even going from one pickup on your guitar to another will give you a different sound, so minimize these differences by sticking with the same basic preset, and only add certain colors/variations. Take it from me, I've toured with my Helix extensively and know what to avoid. The last thing you need is scrambling at sound check.
    1 point
  5. https://youlean.co/youlean-loudness-meter/ is a great tool for preset leveling.
    1 point
  6. Yes it works but it's a lot more clumsy than momentary latching if your making chord changes (as you would on most freeze pedals). Involves double clicking instead of one, so you need to time it right; and the music abruptly stops between switches (though maybe that's just something in the settings I can fix).
    1 point
  7. I don't see momentary bypass either. It seems only possible with an external MIDI switcher using CC#1 or CC#4. But the Poly Pitch captures the stuff that is played the moment it is engaged. Doesn't this work with the On footswitch? [Can't test - don't have an HX One]
    1 point
  8. I can only comment on three powered cabs, PC112+, PC212+ and Catalyst 100. I started with a Helix Floor and later added an HXStomp. I quickly sold the PC112+ and moved up to the PC212+. The reason was that I THOUGHT that the PC112+ was too dark. I wish I'd kept it because I later realized that I simply didn't know how to use it. I wish that I'd kept the PC112+ because now that I know how the system works, it would have been fine, and if I only had the HXS it would have been perfect for my needs. The PC212+ is actually overkill with the HXS. I found that the advantages of total volume, which I don't need (the PC112+ is plenty loud), and the "novelty" of the stereo possibilities, which I don't really care all that much about, are offset by the added size and weight. Stereo is nice for "ambient" sounds though. IOW, if you have a full fat Helix and want the above-mentioned advantages of maximum volume, integration and features, and don't mind the weight, the PC212+ is great. Otherwise, or if you only have the HXS, the PC112+ is quite sufficient. Also, if you think of the Speaker Emulations as Speaker 1, Speaker 2 etc. and don't get all hung up on "Do the GB25, V30 etc. REALLY sound like "THE REAL DEAL", then the PC series are great for the AITR feel. Just pick the speaker that sounds best for the sound that you're going for. The Catalyst 100 not only sounds great for AITR, but it's also MUCH cheaper, lighter, and has the advantages of being a backup if the HXS fails. The internal amps, delay and reverb allow me to use more pre-amp FX without running into DSP issues with the single processor HXS. With the addition of the 6 new amps in the latest X version (12 total and the old HW is updatable by FW), I have all of the amps that I need. It's PLENTY loud (get the 2x12 version if you need more) and actually sounds GREAT for low volume (<75db) practice in my apartment. This is due to the built-in Fletcher-Munson compensatory EQ on the .5watt setting. Even at <>60db it sounds full. For LIVE use, going to FOH from the XLR, the "generic" sounding 1x12, 2x12 and 4x12 speaker options, with the MANY mic emulations, give me all the flexibility I need. I went down the rabbit-hole of IRs. I have many THOUSANDS, from every major and minor player, and I no longer use them except for my RARE forays into recording, and even then, rarely. The ability (with the new FW) to disable the internal speaker emulations allows the ability to use an IR loader if I wanted to. My PC212+ is now on Craigslist. IOW, if I was starting over and only had the HXS, the Catalyst is the way I'd go. All of the L6 options have MIDI, which is GREAT. It's NOT Rocket Science, and I'd be happy to answer any questions you have about using MIDI. As to the other candidates you mentioned, the only way to tell which would be best for YOU would be to try them. Good Luck finding a store that has all of them, and keep in mind that what they sound like in a store vs ITRW is about as accurate an evaluation method as YouTube.
    1 point
  9. OP hasn't been back in nearly a year. Maybe he'll see this and post an update? In the meantime, things to try: Make sure PC Edit is closed. Make sure that you're connected to a USB port on the MB, not a hub. Some computers have internal hubs, make sure yours isn't one of them. Try a new cable. Make sure you have the latest version of the Updater. Make sure your computer is configured to NOT EVER GO TO SLEEP!!! Follow all of the directions. Download the FW and do a LOCAL update. If you've already done all of that, do it again just to be sure you didn't skip anything. See if you can borrow a Windows computer. I don't have update problems on ANY of my L6 HW or SW. Just sayin'... If nothing works, open a support ticket or, better yet, if you're in the US, CALL support. There could be a problem calling due to the fires, but it doesn't hurt to try.
    0 points
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