rd2rk

It was working with Helix. You changed the USB port that the Roli is connected to. That's when the problem started? Change it back! Maybe your Mac doesn't have enough power to power the Roli? This from the Roli Seaboard manual: "You should charge your Seaboard Block as the first step before proceeding. When connected to a suitable power source, the Seaboard Block can charge additional Blocks that are connected to its DNA connectors. Plug the included USB-C cable into the Seaboard Block and plug the other end of the cable into a USB 3 charger or a computer with a USB 3 port. First connect the Seaboard Block to a USB 3 power source (like an iPad charger or Macbook USB 3 port) with the included USB-C cable. Connect the Control Block to the Lightpad or Seaboard Block via DNA connectors to begin charging it. For fastest charging times, turn the Blocks off during charging. The Seaboard Block requires 5 watts of power to run and charge the battery efficiently. Adding more Blocks via the DNA connectors will increase the demand for power, so we recommend using a higher output charger such as an iPad charger (10–12 watts) or a higher output USB 3 charger. Please note that when charging via a computer that you must use the ROLIsupplied USB cable to connect to the host computer. When using a laptop computer please make sure that it is plugged into a wall outlet and has its sleep feature disabled. Note: Please do not use an iPhone charger to charge BLOCKS, as it is not a compatible charger.": The "very good quality balanced cables" aren't helping, as the Helix SEND/RETURN jacks aren't balance. The pictures I can find of your device don''t show audio outs, except maybe headphones? So, you're sending MIDI to the Mac via USB, some software (in a DAW?) is converting it to audio and sending it wirelessly (bluetooth?) back to the Roli, which is sending audio from a headphone jack to the returns on the Helix, which is then sending processed signal via USB back to your Mac/DAW for recording? Maybe a better explanation of the signal chain would help? I could be missing something here, but "crackling" is usually a problem with buffers and latency (lots of places that could become an issue in this setup), and the potential for a problem with power seems high. I'd start there looking for a solution. Maybe call Roli support?

Signs and portents!

Aren't you on vacation? RELAX....HAVE FUN! We've got this!

That's how a lot of people wind up in Chicago.....

First thing you need to do is....READ THE MANUAL! If you want to modify an existing tone, select it, copy it to a location in a different setlist and work on it there. Then you'll always have the original to go back to. Start a new tone from scratch by selecting NEW PRESET in that other setlist. Following those two basic rules should prevent you from doing whatever you did to cause your problem. Oh, yeah, did I mention....READ THE MANUAL!

My first bass was a Zim-Gar with flats, and that's how it was! But, since I was already in a band, I HAD to practice. Built some great callouses! By the time I upgraded to a (first run) Gibson Thunderbird, I could bend strings like a bluesman with super-slinkys! There's something to be said for starting on crap equipment. At the very least, you can better appreciate the good stuff when you get it!

I'm having this same problem with FRFR in general. I think I don't like the way the tweeters reproduce overdriven sounds. Try putting a Hi-Lo EQ Block at the end of your signal chain, with the Hi Cut at around 5k. I've found it helps, but since the crossover on the HRHR112 is 2k and on the TS210 it's 2.5k, it doesn't completely solve the problem for me, and setting the cuts lower kills the liveliness of the sound. Using the cab cuts as many suggest didn't work for me, but the slope on the Hi-Lo EQ block is steeper and seems to work better.

Do a factory reset. 2 LED light Fun 3 & 4 Test Mode 5 & 6 Global reset 7 & 8 Reset setlists to factory, Keep IRs 8 & 9 Reset setlists to factory, Clear IRs 9 & 10 Reset setlists to factory, Global reset, Clear IRs 10 & 11 Upgrades existing presets to latest format 11 & 12 Clear current preset 5 & 12 Clear setlists, clear IRs, Return system settings to default 6 & 12 Safe boot mode

I agree with you IN PRINCIPLE on all points. HOWEVER - if a person BELIEVES that a certain specific piece of gear is KEY to getting the sound in HIS/HER head, and has the wherewithal to acquire that piece of gear without denying his children food, that person should do what makes him happy! Happy musicians play more, and thus get better faster! At the very least, the ongoing pursuit of THE SOUND IN OUR HEADS spurs the economy and provides employment for many thousands of people! A worthy cause! As to the requirement that a piece of musical gear must needs be practical and serve a purpose, NONSENSE I say! Buy and play what you like for your own reasons, and if someone questions your rationale, LAUGH AT THE FOOL! There is no requirement that you EVER be one bit better the musician than you are at this moment. There are already more great guitarists in this world than Carter has little liver pills! Truly great Bassoon players (Bassonnists?), however, are another story!

Somebody! Quick! Cruisinon2 needs a Spin Doctor!

Somewhere out there on the Wonderful World Wide Web there's a home video of Joe Satriani playing "Satch Boogie" on a knock-off Strat through a tiny Gorilla practice amp. Still a great song!

I'm pretty sure that this has been suggested over on Ideascale, along with free ponies. I'm pretty sure we'll get our free ponies first!

Informational value of this thread = 0 Entertainment value = Priceless! Love it when people post about what a waste of their valuable time it is posting to this kind of thread......ROFLMAO!!!

Not available till v2.8 is released. Waiting.....Waiting......

Here's how I do this. While there are other ways to do it, I consider this method as "Best Practice", and adaptable to most situations. Use XLR cables because they are BALANCED and the Helix (Floor, LT and Rack) 1/4" OUTS are NOT (HXSTOMP OUTS ARE balanced). This minimizes noise and allows for longer cable runs if necessary. In Helix Globals, set the XLR OUT to MIC (weak signal). Set the BIG KNOB to 1/4". That sends a steady Unity Gain signal to the board via XLR while allowing you to control the 1/4" out level separately for stage monitoring. On the board, set PAD and HPF to OFF (button OUT), and the GAIN knob fully counter-clockwise (left), MAIN volume OFF. Hit a big ole "A" (or E or G, I like A) chord as hard as you normally play and SLOWLY turn up the GAIN knob until the PEAK light flashes, then turn it down a notch. If the GAIN goes past 3/4 without lighting the PEAK light, reset and start over with the Helix XLR OUT set to LINE. You want a strong signal with the lowest pre-amp (GAIN) setting possible to minimize noise. Yamaha pre-amps are excellent but, again, "Best Practice". With Helix XLR OUT set to LINE and the GAIN knob on the board set fully counter-clockwise (left), repeat from the "A". if the PEAK light flashes right away set the PAD button ON. Repeat from the "A". The board's OUTPUTS are LINE Level. Set the monitors to -10db. If you're not getting enough volume with the board's Channel levels set to UNITY (the little triangle) and the MAIN Level Indicator at the top of the green/occasionally lighting the first yellow, try the +4db setting. That should get it!

Connect to PC via USB (no connection from computer audio out put is necessary). In Windows Sound Panel, set Output to the computers soundcard (not Helix). This gets streaming audio (Youtube etc) from computer to Helix, unprocessed. In Helix Globals set USB 1/2 Destination to Multi (default). Set Headphones Monitor to Multi (default). Plug your headphones into Headphone jack.

Headphones have nothing to do with crackling, unless your headphones are really crap or defective. I'll point out AGAIN - you should be monitoring your guitar DIRECT through the Helix while recording, NOT through the DAW! Monitoring DIRECT through the Helix results in ZERO latency and ZERO crackling! That you're still getting both indicates that YOU"RE DOING IT WRONG! Duplicate the screenshots I sent you. Make sure that, In Helix Globals, USB 1/2 Destination is set to whichever monitors you want to hear your PLAYBACK through (XLR in your case) - while recording, you should only be hearing your guitar through your amp (1/4" L/Mono out). On your computer, the soundcard should be set to the computers's soundcard. In your DAW it should be set to Helix.

Put them in front of the Helix, just like you would on a real pedalboard. As soon as you start using loops, you have to modify every preset to contain a Send/Return Block. NOT the EASIEST way.

Dude, you kick it! I'll never laugh at a bassoon again!

Oranges yes, apples, never!

Patriotic finger food. I like it! Don't forget to put the BBQ sauce on FIRST!

In honor of the 4th, I think that today's off-topic discussion should be freedom of speech...... Happy 4th everybody! Don't forget to do your patriotic duty by eating a roasted animal and blowing something up (inanimate objects only, please!)!

Where is that blasted tongue-in-cheek emoji?

What phil_m just said is essentially what I've been telling you, the second path in your example preset is unnecessary.

If the entire signal (backing/previously recorded tracks AND guitar) is coming out the monitors DURING recording, you've still got the monitor switch on. Configured as I've described, the guitar signal should be separate from the rest, which allows you to hear it better (and without latency or crackling) during recording. Playback will be the mix, all in the monitors. CracKling at low buffer settings indicates that your computer is low on resources. Since I don't use a MAC, I can't tell you how to optimize it for audio. Certainly, at the least, all non-essential programs should be closed and wireless turned off. Those are the basics, you should Google for more info on optimizing a MAC for Audio production. Any crackling should be audible regardless of whether you're listening on headphones or speakers. If it's only on your headphones, try better (newer?) headphones. What are the HW specs on your MAC?