cruisinon2

Some of the lower prices you are seeing may be "scratch and dent" models, which usually means there's a minor cosmetic flaw somewhere, a light scratch or two in the finish, etc. Don't let that stop you though...it can be a great deal. Got my 69 for $900 from Sweetwater...tiny scratch on the back, looks like somebody's screwdriver slipped puting on one of the backplates. Eventually I'll do worse damage to it myself just from normal use, and it's on the back anyway, so who cares? The $500 savings bought my 500X...

Well somebody owes you a battery no matter what happens...as far as the other stuff goes, I would definitely try reflashing the firmware first. Its quick and easy (usually), and it isnt likely to make things any worse. Browse thru the forum and you'll see numerous reports of all kinds of weird issues that can be remedied with reflashing the guitar. Anecdotal evidence suggests that sometimes reflashing several times is necessary...no one knows why and it makes little sense, but it has apparently made a difference in more than a few cases. Good luck.

Yup...not touching the firmware again until the next update arrives...whenever that may be. And even then I"ll probably wait and see if it sets fire to any guitars before I chance it. :wacko:

I suspect that even they don't know why the firmware behaves this way. It's never the same problem twice. Makes a universal fix rather difficult. Explains why they seem to have opted for the "cross your fingers and re-flash" approach.

This would be way-cool, but I suspect that Gibson and most of their loyal "traditionalists" would consider it sacrilege. Makes no sense, but this is the mindset. Same reason you can't buy a liquid-cooled Harley. (yeah I know...the V-Rod, but even the Harley guys don't consider them to be "real" Harleys)...but I digress. And since Gibson is fond of putting amusing price tags on stuff, can you imagine the cost? It would price-out most buyers.

Agreed...you'd think that either everything would work, or nothing would. Had similar issue with the position 3 acoustic model after flashing to 2.0 the first time. That model had a very strange, bass-heavy delay if the tone knob was anywhere but 100% on. I'd play a note, and about 300 ms later this loud "whump" (and I had no delay in the patch at all). Re-flashed the firmware, and it disappeared. These guitars can get really odd at times.

The integration is a great concept...but I just can't see myself trusting this set-up live. At home, or in the studio is one thing, but I don't want to be handcuffed by dodgey bluetooth connections...they tend to drop out at the most inopportune moments. And relying on battery-driven devices that have the same appetite for juice that an Abrahms tank has for gas wouldn't thrill me onstage either. Anybody who's gigged enough to have a few Spinal Tap "Pod" moments onstage knows all the stuff that can go wrong with just a guitar, amp, and a cord. Also don't want to be locked into iOS forever, either. Probably lotsa fun to play with in a controlled environment though.

That's what they're for...an electric guitar amp will never give you what you're looking for.

Well...not to put too fine a point on it, but it is right there in the title of the thread. He's got a 500x.

Fair enough...all good. :)

Don't have to do it for each model. There's a global string volume setting.

OK...really no need to get testy. I'm neither an imbecile, nor illiterate. I see your title now, and I saw it before. The title alone doesn't necessarily preclude there being more than one of you. And frankly, it surprises me a bit that they would dump the load of repairing every JTV in the country on one guy. That's all I meant. Would have thought the smiley face in my other post was a dead giveaway.

I'm running 2.0. This is a totally different, very specific problem. Affects only the drop D tunings. Palm-muting the open A string results in some weird overtones coming through.The original post all the way at the top of this thread describes it in great, gory detail. No point is typing it all again here, but here's the Reader's Digest version: In short, the low E saddle/piezo is hearing the A string. I verified this by turning A string's volume to zero in Workbench, and then compared plucking the A string with no palm muting vs. resting my picking hand across the strings (in typical palm-muting fashion), and playing that A string again. With no palm-muting and the A string's output at zero, I hear nothing...total silence. With palm-muting, and A string's volume still at zero, I hear clearly audible notes. Only explanation is that one or more other piezos are picking up the A string's vibration through my hand being in contact with, in particular, the low E string. Hand placement is the only variable in the equation. If I contort myself so that my hand is not touching the low E string at all, no odd sounds...but this is easier said than done.

Lotsa guys didn't like 2.0, for this and a multitude of other reasons. Play around with the string volumes in Workbench until everything sounds right to you. If all else fails you can always roll back the firmware.

Unless one really knows what they're doing, jury-rigging stuff that wasn't designed to work together is at the very least a pain in the arse, often more trouble than it's worth, and sometimes worse than having done nothing at all. Hats off to anyone for whom this kind of surgery is a walk in the park, but for me it's starting to seems like the JTV/Graphtec combo won't be an option. I can strip wires and solder, but I draw the line at grinding metal. I think I'll stick with what I got...limitations and all...Just don't see it ending well. Or I'll buy an 89 and put the wrap-around Graphtec bridge on it...that shouldn't require a welding torch or anything, right? ;)

And at the pace at which technology changes, that 5 year interval is likely to get shorter and shorter. We can all lament this fact until we're blue in the face, but it won't change. Stuff will become obsolete faster and faster, and companies will move on to the next Big Thing just as fast. Those that don't will disappear. Unless of course they've been annointed with "classic" status, in which case they can go on making the same tired old crap decade after decade which people will continue to buy because its "tradition".

Any thoughts on the crosstalk issue?

Please tell me you're not the only one.... ;) And since you've unveiled yourself...any thoughts on the crosstalk thread? I saw you posted in that one too. I'd love to figure out if my drop D issues are curable, or if it's peculiar to the way I play and would plague any JTV I tried...

Yup, I've definitely seen this movie... :P

I want my 2.1 firmware YESTERDAY!!!!! Preferably hand delivered and uploaded by Line 6 personnel. I'd also like them to bring me a pony...a white one. So is this thread gonna be the Reader's Digest version of all the other whiney ones, or will we be covering new ground here?

Nothing wrong with a PRS...but it will be a PRS, and nothing else. If versatility is something you're looking for in a recording guitar, the JTVs are the way to go. They are quite well made, very resonant guitars, even without all the DSP goodies.

You're a better man than I....lol. True, you couldn't a/b them, unless you bought both, knowing you'd return one (even I wouldn't do that). But even if you did, you're not taking advantage of them...they make their own rules.

250 miles? Wow...man on a mission. I don't think I'd drive 250 miles if I needed a kidney transplant, lol. Next time just buy whatever it is from Sweetwater, play it for a month and return it no questions asked if ya don't like it. If nothing else it'll save you about $80 in gas...

99.68% of this decision will boil down to personal preference. The switch thing too...as far as I'm concerned, one 5 way switch is infinitely easier to operate on the fly than a 3 way switch plus a button, but thats just me...you might not care, and obviously there are plenty of guys for whom its not an issue. I'm also not a big fan of the Les Paul-like ergonomics of the guitar itself...so I never really looked at the 59. The models and tunings are all the same, and you shouldn't notice much of a difference, except perhaps with sustain. Generally a set neck will give you a little more sustain than a bolt-on, but the 69's are very resonant guitars and they ring like a bell. Mine sustains better than my Am. Std. Strat.