cruisinon2

Unfortunately, there are no magic bullets with the 500x...it takes a lot of work to get sounds that you like, and it can be frustrating at first. Folks will argue all day long about whether or not this is a good thing. Personally, I've learned a lot about what makes amps sound the way they do by playing with all the deep edit functions [sag, bias, ER [early reflection], etc]. Some of my favorite tones I sort of stumbled on by accident. I find clean tones easier to dial in than the dirt, by that's just me. I like the Hiway 100 amp...just a little reverb, and maybe a touch of chorus. There no way around the experimental phase, however. I've had the thing for a little more than 2 months, and I'm still working with it. Try 'em all...you 'll know when you hit the right formula. The very last amp you thought you would like might turn out to be your favorite. I LOVE the Soldano models...never played through a real one, and never would have guessed that I'd use them as much as I have been. For clean sounds especially, the guitar choice will of course factor in, too. And it's all subjective anyway...trial and error is the name of the game.

Yeah...I want one too. Maybe a month or two after the taxman finishes this year's rectal exam...

We can all thank the lawyers and the PC drones who've spearheaded this sort of lollipope in the name of "progress".

You're likely to need to tweak things anytime you change guitars. Even if you had just switched between two traditional guitars with mag pickups, they're never gonna sound identical. And the JTV with it's piezo pickups is an entirely different universe. You'll probably find that you'll need to fiddle with the individual guitar models in Workbench as well...almost everyone does eventually.

Thats interesting...I guess the MP3 input is sort of like an fx return. Wouldn't have occurred to me to try that.

Load up the patch you want to move, then press SAVE once. The next screen that comes up will have destination choices. The first of the 4 small knobs below the screen allows you to choose which bank(set list)it will be saved to, and the second knob selects the patch number...1A, 1B, etc. Then press SAVE a second time, and you're done.

Lol...post pics. :P

Only if the hat is rich in Vitamin A...and they'll only sell you those hats at the Hipster Lid Emporium if you're sporting at least 3 days' growth (comfirmed in house by striking a match on your face), and agree to surrender all razors and shaving creams/gels, etc. at the door. Then you have to sign a document asserting that everything that's ever been popular, in fact sucks. Otherwise, prepare to be silently judged, and it's off to the sporting goods store for a baseball cap. :D

The Spider Valve series might...and should for the price, but I don't think that any of the solid state ones do. I've got the HD150 head...it has no fx loop. But that stays at the rehearsal space in case anything else craps out. There's so much fx junk in there, at $250 (with the MKII floorboard...both used) for a spare amp, I didn't care.

Might sound stupid (and it is), but more than once on the 500x...and other devices throughout the ages...I've been guilty of simply not seating any one of several stupid 1/4" jacks all the way, leading me to the conclusion that something was "broken", when in fact I was just an idiot, lol. :wacko: Sometimes you'll get no sound, a hollow-ish sound, horrible screaching, L or R only...then after much head scratching, and the dreading of ex$pen$e, St. Stunod smiles upon me, and I'm back in business, lol.

Anything is possible...but in 25+ years, unless it's a pedal with true bypass circuitry, I've never been able to get anything to sound decent running straight into the front of any amp I've owned. If it's not how it colors your tone when the effect is turned off, then it's the extra noise that gets generated, and a noise gate will only do so much, usually at the expense of sustain. If it doesn't have an fx loop, or so many onboard fx that I won't need anything else, I don't even bother looking at it anymore. Just my $0.02.

Oh I know...just seems the list of sub-standard parts keeps growing. Already considering a different neck, as the nut spacing is absurdly small for me. Do most of my playing on a custom build that has the widest neck I've ever seen on an 6 string electric guitar, and a nearly flat...almost classical guitar radius...so this has been quite an adjustment for me. Some things I just flat out cannot play below the 4th or 5th fret.

I have no idea how many tones there are/were at any given time. What I do know is that I don't want to wade through 50,000 of anything to find the 10 (and I think that's being generous) that I'd find useful. I'd die of old age by the time I found "my" tones. I suffer from CTD (constant tweaking disease) too...but good god it's easy to spend 3 hours doing nothing but that and forget to actually play something. Gotta remind myself to knock it off sometimes. Unless something's seriously broken, it's always "close enough for rock 'n' roll"! :)

Perhaps you're right...but I've been told I need more roughage, and the hat will taste better than anything I cook anyway. :P

Wow...I will forever remain mystified at the patience required to pull off something like that, and I had front row seats for a custom build that I had done for me years ago...saw it in various stages along the way, so I get what's involved, but when you lay it all out in pics like that it's crazy. Hats off to anybody who can do that! I get cranky when the cable box doesn't respond to the remote fast enough... ;)

lol...Bridge Crud would be a great Low-Fi/ Emo band name. :lol:

It seems that there is considerable variation with piezo output...it's also odd that along with the 2.0 update, the default global string volumes are not all at 0db. I toggled back and forth between 1.9 and 2.0 a few times, just testing things out...each time I reflashed 2.0, the volumes werwe set at 0db, -3.1db, 0db, -6.0db, 0db, -6.0 (low E to high E). I've got them all set at -6db now, plus some individually tweaked models.

Jeez...why do I get the feeling that I'm gonna be replacing the whole bridge at some point, if not an entire transplant? :wacko:

LOL...OK, I give up. It'll either melt your face off, or it won't. Oh, what a glorious mystery... :D

It's always easy to make discussions more complicated than they need to be...and that's the territory we're crossing into now, lol. :) All of what you said is true, but it doesn't really apply here. Impedance missmatches are a whole other ballgame. Mixing amps and cabs with different impedance ratings can certainly present problems. But the 50w Peavey combo and L2M are self-contained units, so this isn't an issue. And while an absolute apples to apples comparison might not be possible without getting out the calipers and decibel meters, I still say that if you're looking at 2 amps on paper, and one is 50w and the other 800w...it's such a divide that you'll get a pretty good idea which one will be louder [assuming no impedance issues] without even plugging them in. But who knows...maybe I'm nuts.

Well a protracted debate isn't gonna help anyone. But to declare wattage comparisons meaningless is, quite frankly...meaningless. If the number never mattered, every spec sheet in the world would read "Power: We don't know, and it doesn't matter anyway.". I've owned a million pieces of gear over the years too, and in the typical guitar amp range of 25w to 150w, yes there is wide variation in perceived volume that isn't always linear with wattage, especially when comparing tube vs. solid state. But the day I meet an 800w PA amp that can't out-thump a 50w combo, tubes or not, I'll eat my hat. And given the tendency of people to complain around here, if the Stagesource line were so anemic that it can't beat out an amp with 1/16th the rated power, people on this forum would be screaming from the rooftops about it all day long...Line 6 would never hear the end of it. That, and Peavey 2x12s would be impossible to find, and the price would triple... ;)

Most forums will have some wretched, PC-driven, lawyer-authored means of protecting the delicate sensibilities of users from "bad" words. Hence this stupid "lollipopping" auto edit function. Thank you, oh benevolent Line 6 patriarchs, for protecting us from ourselves! .. :P

ok, but we're still talking about 800 watts vs 50 watts...thats quite a difference. We've all played through 50 watt tube amps that can melt concrete, and will embarass their 100 watt or even 150 watt solid state counterparts, but I can't see it being an issue in this case. These things are really PA speakers that can function as guitar amps. If its not the loudest thing in the room, it would be of no use as a PA, which is its primary function.

Can't say for sure it it'll work with the Mini, but it does work with my 5th gen. iPod. Some of the tones are great, but the battery life when running even just Mobile POD and Sonic Port is LAUGHABLE. Get's even worse with garage band going at the same time. Now I'm sure that the iPad mini has a larger battery than the iPod 5, but I don't know by how much. From fully charged, I can drain it dead in less than 2 hours, and the iPod is only a few months old, and doesn't get used all that much. It's also kinda ridiculous that Mobile POD can't run in the background, so you're not forced to have the screen on all the time, which is any device's biggest battery drain. So don't be too upset that it ain't working with your phone...I suspect the iPhone battery is of similar capacity, if not the same as the iPod. iPad Mini results might be a little better, I suppose. It's a great idea, but the Sonic Port really needs it's own power supply. Relying on the iOS device is simpler, but not terribly practical...and they sell this thing as a gigging tool as well as recording. As long as you don't mind charging your iWhatever between sets I guess...but as a all-in-one DAW/amp/interface, it doesn't really work, unless you don't mind stopping your gig/ recording session in the middle because you ran out of juice.

What I'm talking about is not under the bridge, or related to circuit boards or soldering...it's on the top surface of the bridge itself, between the front of the low E string saddle and the post where the bridge pivots [directly behind the post actually]...I'll try and take a pic of it. Should have done it at the time before I put everything back together.