cruisinon2

That's what they're for...an electric guitar amp will never give you what you're looking for.

Well...not to put too fine a point on it, but it is right there in the title of the thread. He's got a 500x.

Fair enough...all good. :)

Don't have to do it for each model. There's a global string volume setting.

OK...really no need to get testy. I'm neither an imbecile, nor illiterate. I see your title now, and I saw it before. The title alone doesn't necessarily preclude there being more than one of you. And frankly, it surprises me a bit that they would dump the load of repairing every JTV in the country on one guy. That's all I meant. Would have thought the smiley face in my other post was a dead giveaway.

I'm running 2.0. This is a totally different, very specific problem. Affects only the drop D tunings. Palm-muting the open A string results in some weird overtones coming through.The original post all the way at the top of this thread describes it in great, gory detail. No point is typing it all again here, but here's the Reader's Digest version: In short, the low E saddle/piezo is hearing the A string. I verified this by turning A string's volume to zero in Workbench, and then compared plucking the A string with no palm muting vs. resting my picking hand across the strings (in typical palm-muting fashion), and playing that A string again. With no palm-muting and the A string's output at zero, I hear nothing...total silence. With palm-muting, and A string's volume still at zero, I hear clearly audible notes. Only explanation is that one or more other piezos are picking up the A string's vibration through my hand being in contact with, in particular, the low E string. Hand placement is the only variable in the equation. If I contort myself so that my hand is not touching the low E string at all, no odd sounds...but this is easier said than done.

Lotsa guys didn't like 2.0, for this and a multitude of other reasons. Play around with the string volumes in Workbench until everything sounds right to you. If all else fails you can always roll back the firmware.

Unless one really knows what they're doing, jury-rigging stuff that wasn't designed to work together is at the very least a pain in the arse, often more trouble than it's worth, and sometimes worse than having done nothing at all. Hats off to anyone for whom this kind of surgery is a walk in the park, but for me it's starting to seems like the JTV/Graphtec combo won't be an option. I can strip wires and solder, but I draw the line at grinding metal. I think I'll stick with what I got...limitations and all...Just don't see it ending well. Or I'll buy an 89 and put the wrap-around Graphtec bridge on it...that shouldn't require a welding torch or anything, right? ;)

And at the pace at which technology changes, that 5 year interval is likely to get shorter and shorter. We can all lament this fact until we're blue in the face, but it won't change. Stuff will become obsolete faster and faster, and companies will move on to the next Big Thing just as fast. Those that don't will disappear. Unless of course they've been annointed with "classic" status, in which case they can go on making the same tired old crap decade after decade which people will continue to buy because its "tradition".

Any thoughts on the crosstalk issue?

Please tell me you're not the only one.... ;) And since you've unveiled yourself...any thoughts on the crosstalk thread? I saw you posted in that one too. I'd love to figure out if my drop D issues are curable, or if it's peculiar to the way I play and would plague any JTV I tried...

Yup, I've definitely seen this movie... :P

I want my 2.1 firmware YESTERDAY!!!!! Preferably hand delivered and uploaded by Line 6 personnel. I'd also like them to bring me a pony...a white one. So is this thread gonna be the Reader's Digest version of all the other whiney ones, or will we be covering new ground here?

Nothing wrong with a PRS...but it will be a PRS, and nothing else. If versatility is something you're looking for in a recording guitar, the JTVs are the way to go. They are quite well made, very resonant guitars, even without all the DSP goodies.

You're a better man than I....lol. True, you couldn't a/b them, unless you bought both, knowing you'd return one (even I wouldn't do that). But even if you did, you're not taking advantage of them...they make their own rules.

250 miles? Wow...man on a mission. I don't think I'd drive 250 miles if I needed a kidney transplant, lol. Next time just buy whatever it is from Sweetwater, play it for a month and return it no questions asked if ya don't like it. If nothing else it'll save you about $80 in gas...

99.68% of this decision will boil down to personal preference. The switch thing too...as far as I'm concerned, one 5 way switch is infinitely easier to operate on the fly than a 3 way switch plus a button, but thats just me...you might not care, and obviously there are plenty of guys for whom its not an issue. I'm also not a big fan of the Les Paul-like ergonomics of the guitar itself...so I never really looked at the 59. The models and tunings are all the same, and you shouldn't notice much of a difference, except perhaps with sustain. Generally a set neck will give you a little more sustain than a bolt-on, but the 69's are very resonant guitars and they ring like a bell. Mine sustains better than my Am. Std. Strat.

Relying on Line 6 to store them for you is not likely to end well. Been tons of complaints about the website lately, specifically many patches disappearing from custom tones. Save them in HD edit and store them on your computer, at least that way you'll know where they are.

It will depend largely on whether or not you're a Les Paul guy or a Strat guy...different scale lengths, neck profile ect. If you can put your hands on them both, then do that first...easier said than done though. I've never seen one hanging on the wall in a store.

75 solid state watts will only take you so far...might be time to upgrade to something bigger.

Unfortunately, you will have to experiment with the different options and find what sounds best to you. Someone else's settings may or may not sound good to you. There are no right or wrong choices. Try both preamp and full amp models...play around with everything and see what you like. There's no escaping that phase...and get used to the idea of having different banks of patches...one set for headphones, one for bedroom volume through an amp, and one at rehearsal/gig volume...no getting around that either.

I don't think anyone is arguing that short circuits are a good thing, and I'm sure its possible to produce them by shoving metal stuff inside the guts of a Variax. However, I maintain that unless one is truly spastic, an incredible slob, or deliberately trying to ruin the guitar, using a little steel wool on the neck with no exposed electrical components poses near zero risk to the guitar. If not, then perhaps mine will fry one day...but I seriously doubt it.

Sorry to hear that, but I'm not surprised. Their diagnosis made no sense in the first place.

I suppose it could...if wou wedged an entire pad of the stuff in next to your switches and pots, but I don't think the little shavings pose much of a risk. I've been using ultra fine steel wool to get crud off of fretboards and to smooth the backs of necks for years, and never gave it a second thought....unless you have the pickguard or backplates off at the same time, it's nearly impossible to screw anything up. And even then you're using it on the neck.