cruisinon2

I don't mean the 30 footer that L6 sells. I have one of those too, and it's OK, not great, but OK...I meant the one that came with the guitar that only has the metal collar at one end. That thing is next to useless, unless you only play sitting in a chair.

Lol...

This is probably a good sign that it's a just a mechanical issue with the switch. If you were not able to switch to mags even with the 500, then that would seem to indicate an electrical issue somewhere beyond the switch itself. I've never pulled mine apart, so I can't help you with that, though...good luck.

Only one way to find out...too many variables to predict whether or not somebody else's patches are gonna work for you. Truth is, on a good day you will only be able to use them as a starting point. And it's debatable whether or not that saves you any time, compared to starting from scratch. The more familiar with the unit you get, odds are you'll find it easier to just do it yourself. Tweaking is inevitable no matter what you do.

Well my 69 is about 3 months old...but the serial number indicates that it was made in 2012...April I think, gotta double check. So technically it's a 2 year old guitar. Sweetwater alone seems to have a million of them, and right after the holidays they were letting some brand new ones (not even scratch 'n' dent) go for $899...I should have waited a month :( . Makes you wonder what the wholesale price actually is...not likely that they were taking a loss, unless they're drowning in them. My knob is OK so far (knock wood), but it seems there's another guy with a model knob or switch issue every other day around here...doesn't bode well.

The guy who chimes in on here occasionally claims to be the only tech at Line 6 servicing JTV's. So it seems there's only one dedicated guy for everything. It's a swell model... :wacko:

Maybe they should start shipping the JTVs with a little "first aid kit". A roll of duct tape, cardboard shims, super glue, etc...and those are just for the friggin' knobs. QC FAIL.

You're thinking too much. "Upgrade" is a subjective term. If you think the cab with the vintage 30s sounds better than the other one, then its an upgrade. If you hate it, not really an upgrade no matter how much "better" it looks on paper. Years ago I bought a Rectifier cab, based on little more than Boogie's reputation, and a couple of friends who liked them. Hated the thing...couldn't get a decent tone out of it no matter what I did...and it cost twice as much as my old Marshall 4x12 that is now 30+ years old and still sounds great. Play it first...with YOUR guitar. If you like it, you've got a new toy.

Yup, love the overdrive for leads...it sings.

Don't beat on it, but it does take a little pressure to engage/disengage that knob. If its working as it should (deep breath everyone...its the knob again...sigh...), the knob should depress slightly, then return to neutral position, and the light should turn off.

Doesn't sound to me like you're on the fence at all...I've really wanted to like stuff before too. If you have to talk yourself into liking it...then it's not really your cup of tea.

Its all a matter of taste. What "sounds best" for your amp might sound like baked a$$ on mine, or vice versa. Forget the "correct" way to set things up. All the different output options are doing is applying different EQ curves to the signal...no way it will work universally for every amp out there...especially when you are going straight into the front of a combo, becuase you are then running the patch through the combo's preamp, whcih will further color your sound. There are a number of options, none of which are "wrong". Pre-amps only or full models...doesn't matter. With or without cab models...doesn't matter. You'll probably find that you'll use various combinations, depending on which amp model ur using, and the sounds you're looking for...clean vs. dirty. Just trust your ears...if it sounds good, who cares how you got there?

The question really is, did they fix it at all? Acknowledging an issue and fixing it are two different things. Problems are still being reported...are they all older guitars? Maybe, maybe not...

You can do that, but then you are stuck with having all your fx before the pre-amp in your head. Many fx, especially delay and reverb are best placed after the pre-amp. Exceptions being thins like a wah, or volume pedal. If the amp has an effects loop, you're gonna be better putting the POD in there, and plugging straight into your amp...get your basic tone first, then mess with effects. Just my $0.02.

If that's what you've got in the living room, I'm coming over, lol. I'll bring the beer...

Its been said like 4 times already, but its worth repeating. Just order yourself any of the VDI cables suggested above now...I've worked with drywall thats more flexable than the stock cable.

Never used one, but if I had to guess, I'd think you'd want it first thing in the chain right after the guitar. Given its function, seems like it would need a clean, dry signal to work with.

The fx loop is definitely noisy...how noisy will depend on what you're sticking in there, and whether or not you are placing it before or after the amp model. Some pedals are worse than others...not familar with that one specifically. And the gate will definitely eat your sustain. You could drop some coin on a Variax and forget that pedal entirely. It'll do your tuning for you, and there's zero hum from piezos...most of the time you don't even need a gate...

The 1.9 models are quite good. I have flipped back and forth a few times, and honestly can't decide which I like better. Why not try that for now and then see if you can convince Line 6 to send u a working USB dongle? Then just cross your fingers with the rest of us, and hope that 2.1 doesn't suck. I get your frustration tho...many of these problems should not exist at this point. Doesn't bode well...but at the same time, there are so many models in there, there's gotta be some you'll like even without building custom ones.

True...but the final link in the chain, what we're all listening with...is a brain. And seriously, how many quality brains do you run across in your daily travels? The answer to that question makes me shudder...which is why a product like this will never catch on with the masses. There will always be shiny expensive stuff for the rich folks, and the handful of others who know what good is, and who are willing to pay for it. But Joe Average consumer wants things cheap, fast, and big (big in the 'more bang for your buck' sense...not necessarliy physical size). For this reason, whatever the next phase in music storage media turns out to be, it will likely be even sh*ttier in quality than MP3's. The next thing that comes along that allows the storage of twice as much music in half the space, and at half the cost, is what people will gravitate towards. Most people don't want, or care about quality. They want something that gets the job done at a price they can afford...there will alwaye be more beat up Chevys than Ferraris.

Doesn't surprise me. Plenty of people have had issues with that ridiculous USB dongle.

Unfortunately, 2.0 seems unstable on certain guitars. Lots of weird things reported if you read thru the forums, and hardly ever the same problem twice. The only "fix" that seems to work is repeatedly reflashing the firmware, hoping that it will eventually "take". Some have reported success after several attempts...nobody knows why this works, but sometimes it apparently does. You can also try rolling back to 1.9, then create your custom models and see if you can save them to the guitar. If it works, then thats a pretty good indication that 2.0 is the problem, rather than the guitar. If it still won't load the models, might be the JTV.

There's nothing 'simulated' about the fx loop. Its the same as any other amp...only difference is you can choose where it sits in the signal chain. Generally speaking, a delay would go after the amp model and mixer, yes. Placement depends on the effect.

Download the advanced guide...its all in there. There's a whole chart for each effect...explains all the parameters. The stereo and dynamic (diff. delay times for L and R channels) delays won't do u any good unless you're running more than one cabinet, or if you run both L/R outs to a PA.

It's the one with the built-in Fetzer valve...