cruisinon2

Unfortunatelty, there's almost no way to answer that, and it's unlikely that you'll find one global setting that will work for every patch you create. It depends on the guitar and how hot the pickups are (are they single coils or humbuckers?), the amp model and how much gain you're using, and how hard you hit the strings. Also depends to a great extent on the room you're playing in and what other electronic devices are running nearby. There can be a tremendous difference from one environment to another. If you're in a bar that has neon signs plugged in anywhere near your rig and you're playing anything with single coils, be prepared for some God-awful noise issues. Just gotta fiddle with it until it works for you...different patches will likely require different gate settings, and some might not need one at all.

Never met a guitar player who wasn't a little crazy... ;)

Only problem is the Crybaby sounds great when you're using it, but it's not true-bypass, so the second you turn it off it becomes the star of "Attack of the Tone Sucker". In my experience, it robs you of so much high end that it's almost unusable. Check out the Fulltone Clyde or Clyde Deluxe. They cost more...you'll spend neighborhood of $200 on them (little more for the Deluxe), but at least they won't rob you of all your highs.

I'm reaching for the JTV more than anything else these days, running VDI into the 500x, so the only option is to use the fx loop. But I have run it in front of the Pod with other guitars. The fx loop is noisier than the pedal itself, so I have a couple of duplicate patches with the loop that I go to if I know I'm gonna want the wah.

I've yet to try any multi-fx unit that had a decent sounding wah, including the 500X. They've all been terrible. I had been using a Fulltone Clyde for years, and now the Clyde Deluxe. It's a great pedal...3 different settings depending on exactly how much "wah" you're looking for, and it's true-bypass so it doesn't mutilate your tone when it's off. A little pricey though...

True, but they do sometimes show up and make things worse. Ask anyone who had the misfortune of owning a Harley during the AMF years. They were lawnmowers with handle bars. No way to tell until the dust settles. Line 6 might still be "in charge" day-to-day, but he who holds the purse strings affects everything downwind. Time will tell.

Don't get stuck on "right" or "wrong" outputs, there's no such thing...you're handcuffing yourself if you don't try out different combinations. Those settings are the engineers' "best guess" at an EQ curve that will work for a given type of rig. But no two combo amps or head/cab combinations are gonna sound the same. There's no universalt fit. Nothing will catch fire if you choose a different output setting...try them all before you decide that the Pod isn't for you. Takes a LOT of messing around to get it to sound the way you want. Also, no modeling amp, or pre-amp/fx unit is gonna sound the same from one day to the next if the rest of the rig keeps changing. Consistency is gonna be really hard to achieve that way.

I dunno then...seems odd.

Well, I don't have one...but that certainly is not the case for any other amp I've ever seen. Many amps have more than one output in case you want to run two cabs in stereo, but many players (if not most) run mono rigs. What you probably wouldn't want to do is crank it with nothing connected to the outputs. Although how much of a difference this makes with a solid state amp as opposed to tubes, I'm not entirely sure...but all amplifiers are expecting to see some resistance at the back end, so if you if you crank it to 11 with no outputs connecting to anything at all, you might do some damage.

I have the same head...over here it's just a standard 3 prong power cord. I don't know if the fact that you guys run at a different voltage would require anything special...not sure why it would, but who knows?

That's a really good idea. Thanks!

This needs to be in Ideascale...L6 doesn't monitor the forums for feature requests/ideas.

Versatility, absolutely...less complexity is debatable. The 500X is an amazing unit, but not what I'd call intuitive (but that could be me...lol ;) ) Lotsa deep editing buried in various places...not always obvious what to do, or where to go to do it. But once you get the hang of it, it's a monster. Same goes for the JTV...equally amazing, assuming that it has no problems...some do, some don't. QC leaves a little bit to be desired sometimes. I'm sure you've read through other threads that go into the nitty gritty. Even the ones that are 100% take some getting used to, but once you do it's another world. Good luck with it.

No experieince with your amp personally, but if it has an FX loop, just use that and save yourself a whole lot of grief and noise.

That used to work before the 2.0 JTV update...in fact it's worked for me on just about every rig I've owned over the last 20 years. But now the dreaded "click" that accompanies each patch change makes this a cringe-worthy experience depending on the tune...

Were you playing in standard tuning, or using an alt. tuning? There seems to be no end to the weirdness that some of the alt tunings can produce under the right circumstances...phase of the moon, tides, "bad-set-ups", etc.

Which is why I replaced it. But since I wanted to power and control the guitar with the 500X, that's the only choice I had right out of the box...if there's supposed to be a "real VDI" included, I never got it.

I don't mean the 30 footer that L6 sells. I have one of those too, and it's OK, not great, but OK...I meant the one that came with the guitar that only has the metal collar at one end. That thing is next to useless, unless you only play sitting in a chair.

Lol...

This is probably a good sign that it's a just a mechanical issue with the switch. If you were not able to switch to mags even with the 500, then that would seem to indicate an electrical issue somewhere beyond the switch itself. I've never pulled mine apart, so I can't help you with that, though...good luck.

Only one way to find out...too many variables to predict whether or not somebody else's patches are gonna work for you. Truth is, on a good day you will only be able to use them as a starting point. And it's debatable whether or not that saves you any time, compared to starting from scratch. The more familiar with the unit you get, odds are you'll find it easier to just do it yourself. Tweaking is inevitable no matter what you do.

Well my 69 is about 3 months old...but the serial number indicates that it was made in 2012...April I think, gotta double check. So technically it's a 2 year old guitar. Sweetwater alone seems to have a million of them, and right after the holidays they were letting some brand new ones (not even scratch 'n' dent) go for $899...I should have waited a month :( . Makes you wonder what the wholesale price actually is...not likely that they were taking a loss, unless they're drowning in them. My knob is OK so far (knock wood), but it seems there's another guy with a model knob or switch issue every other day around here...doesn't bode well.

The guy who chimes in on here occasionally claims to be the only tech at Line 6 servicing JTV's. So it seems there's only one dedicated guy for everything. It's a swell model... :wacko:

Maybe they should start shipping the JTVs with a little "first aid kit". A roll of duct tape, cardboard shims, super glue, etc...and those are just for the friggin' knobs. QC FAIL.