BBD_123

I use KRK Rokits. If you've got a large room you might want 6" cones. Of course there are lots of choices here too, but I suspect any decent mid-market kit will do the trick. Don't buy cheap you should be okay.

Sorry - only just saw this. A few weeks ago (after asking here in the forum) I bought a set of Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro Studio 80 ohm headphones which are excellent (typical review here). They have a perfectly good soundstage for my needs but if you want that bit more spatial fidelity, the word is go for the open-back DT 990 Pro Studio instead. Of course there are other doubtless excellent options and others here will recommend them but I can only speak for what I've tried and tested. EDIT: Just found a useful headphones guide on another thread - hope this helps.

Good studio headphones.

You called me a troll: >>which means the one doing the laughing wants to be part of the drama, which kinda makes him a troll himself. So denying it in the next breath just looks silly.

People respond to trolling and calls of DNFTT are *always* futile. So the best policy is to give them a hard time, with mockery the #1 tool in the armory. Noted that you just called me a troll btw.

+1 on the harmless entertainment :-) People should learn to love trolls - and laugh artfully at them - which they absolutely hate.

Most people recognise a sockpuppet within the space of a few comments. Proxy servers may allow trolls to login after an IP block, but they don't render their charming and distinctive personalities invisible. So that sort of trickery can only get mischief-makers so far.

No, no, no. Like this:

Why's everyone so cross with this clown? He's got no game. He couldn't play on the last thread and now he's just repeating himself. So just take the lollipop. Trolls *hate* being laughed at which is ironic as most of them are actually useless at trolling. Like I said, no game.

>>Many IRs I hear tend to sound a bit more lively and hyped to me, and I think that may be one reason why people like them. They don't necessarily sound more realistic to me, though. ^ ^ ^ ^ This. >>But then I pull up a cab, spend five minutes or so fiddling with mics and maybe tweak the post EQ a hair and presto... I'm getting exactly what I want. ^ ^ ^ ^ And this.

Greatly enjoyed Twohandband's comments. So much there to agree with. Although per others, I'd say that 'ripping off' is perhaps a bit strong for patch peddlers :D

Yes, that was my thought, really. It's one of the reasons why I asked if the OP had definitely got a [cab] block with or after the amp. Because headphones don't usually break that way.

I'd suggest replacing your headphones if they were indeed the cause of so much top end.

One way you can get a horrible trebly tone is to forget to put a cab block after the amp block. Can you just confirm that you've got [amp] and later [cab] in your path? Or that you are using the combined [amp+cab] block?

Well, that is a bit low for Helix headphones output which I think is 12ohm (not sure, others please correct me if I'm wrong). So it might be the problem or at least contributing to it. That said, ATH-M20x are supposed to be studio headphones. Something's definitely amiss. I actually prefer 1Mohm guitar input impedance. It is a bit more driven than Auto. So being forced down to 90kohm ain't right.

You could try a truly luminous watch (eg. Traser or similar). Not one that needs to be in the sun then glows weakly for 10 minutes but real luminous dial markers that are always bright.

What is the impedance on your headphones? It sounds like this could be what is throwing your tone off.

:D

Have to say that I'm in the 'EQ-block-is-better' camp these days. See eg. here for why...

I'm a humbucker player, but a few things should hold true for single coils: - Place an EQ Low / High cut block after the amp and use the low cut to trim back the bass flub. - Try a Tube Screamer block in front of the amp and dial the amp pre gain back down from 10 to about 6 and then work back up. - Try the Plexi Bright if you can't get what you want out of the Normal. Or try the jumped amp and set bright pre high and normal pre low, then slowly increase normal pre to get body into your tone. Sorry to be a bit broad-strokes, but hope this helps a bit anyway.

Ah, that's just some kid passing time waiting for the firmware update. But this is insane: [EDIT: horrible vid of idiot jumping into cactus removed at request of another forum member - BBD]

Late to the party, but for the thread, I'm getting good results with 5" KRK Rokit 5s in a small room. They are on stands either side of the desk. There's a -1dB low cut on both to keep the bass tight in the small room.

Heck, that's the Internet everywhere. This place is remarkably well-behaved and sane.

I take your point, but in making it you are also making a false equivalence - only *this* update features HX reverbs. All the rest did not and so may be regarded as jam on top. And L6 did the right thing by its user base in upgrading the reverbs to HX modelling, so still fair play to L6.

>>Snapshot development in Helix Floor/Rack/Control was part of Helix LT development and therefore paid for by Helix LT users I must admit I do see the Helix firmware updates as pure bonus jam on top. But to discover that actually, those corner-cutting, cheapskating, lickpenny LT users were paying for them had me chuckling with supervillain evil. (Only kidding, LT users, only kidding). But seriously, TANSTAAFL.