BBD_123

Yes, I got that but I think the conversation just took a fork ;) As I read it, bjnette was referring back to hurghanico's earlier comment: >therefore I hypothesize that the HD cabs being darker are already filtered on the high frequencies, unlike the HX cabs that are not, and that could be the reason why the HX ones are more open/bright sounding and equipped also with an "hi cut" control, ie to let the users to cut as they want what probably has been instead cut automatically in a fixed way on the HD cabs (equipped only with a low cut control).. Anyway, glad your mate was able to help out (a fresh pair of ears is just what it takes, sometimes). Hopefully that's the logjam broken now.

FWIW, regarding the single input / half input thing, my take is that for humbuckers from the low-wind PAF to vintage hot output range, then the hotter signal works best. If you are using mad ceramics, then maybe the single input will produce better results. But as always, YMMV.

Now *that's* how to deal with the problem of Mondays. :D

Great comment. I've put a few remarks inline in [square brackets]:

Tips submitted with due respect. I read your posts, so I know you know your way around the HD. But... I've got myself into a box a few times only to discover that there *is* a way - because somebody here nudged my thinking. Sometimes 'bracketing' the amp works for me: maybe a mid-focus eq in front trimming the top end and the parametric eq after the amp dialling the unpleasant harshness out (per Peter Hanmer's demo). Anyway, good luck and let's face it, you can't really lose: either you stay with HD and end up with Helix, AXE, Kemper or you go for a modded Plexi. It all looks good to me :D

I'm guessing you've already tried this but, just in case: - boost <low cut> in cab DEPs for a tighter low end - turn <bias> up in amp DEPs for bloom - trim the top end with mid-focus EQ or parametric EQ (after amp) - pre-eq the amp to remove excessive bite

Surprised to hear this criticism (twice now on this thread). No idea how you set up, but I cannot complain of harshness, digital or otherwise. For example, the JTM-45 patch I use is in no way 'harsh'. It just sounds like a JTM-45 through an old 4 x 12. But as I say, no idea how you are set up, from patch to PA, so [shrugs].

Lots of good tips on the thread, especially the point that Input 1 should be guitar and Input 2 should be something else. But... Getting the JTM 800 out of a can challenge humbly submitted: Bare bones, just amp, optimised signal path and a Tube Distortion: 1/ New tone 2/ Set Input 1 to guitar and Input 2 to something else 3/ Output to Studio/Direct 4/ Pick Marshall JTM 800 5/ Play. It sounds horrible. In a can 6/ Go to the Mixer block and set: - Path A level to max 12dB - Path A Pan to center - Path B level to zero 0dB 7/ Go to the amp block and set CH VOL to 45% 8/ Turn Drive down into the 20 - 30% range 9/ Go to Cab Parameters and set low cut to 100Hz 10/ Tube Drive in front of the amp Mucho fine-tuning still to do, of course, but hopefully that's a bit more like it.

That's very useful info, thanks.

Agree with BillBee. Try with Fender Twin Reverb. Use with care :-)

Yes, it's a good tutorial. Props to Peter Hanmer for putting it together. You *might* find that once you get comfortable with the parametric EQ you can go back to the Tone Guide and it will make more sense. If you really don't like messing with the EQ effects, then I'd suggest using the better distortion / drive effects to alter tone instead. Tube Drive, Screamer and Line 6 Drive can do a fair bit of tone-shaping with their bass, mid, treble controls in addition to setting 'drive' and output gain. Finish the job with the amp model's own tone controls and maybe some cab and mic choices that work for you. Have fun - it'll come right in the end :-)

>>Turn left at the next set of lights, And cross-town traffic.

Video tutorial on how to get rid of harshness / fizz with the HD parametric EQ (by Peter Hanmer / Peter JH upthread). I think this is a good explainer of some EQ fundamentals (mysteries) like how 'Q' actually works - see what you think.

What kind of tone are you going for? Eg. classic rock, 80s hair metal, 90s shred etc? >>mostly use Marshalls and Parks Which Marshalls do you use?

BillBee has a point, although I've often found that EQ is not necessary - just careful selection / setup of amp, cab, mic and overdrive can do the trick. 357mag is right that the HD EQs are a bit of a challenge at first, but the evergreen and wonderful MeAmBobbo's HD Tone Guide is there to help. Here's the section on EQ. Keys to the kingdom.

What Hurganico said, plus make sure you are using the SM57 off axis mic. Depending on the amp, I sometimes use a Tube Screamer (as the last effect block before the amp) to boost the top a bit more. Edit: I'm using an LP too, with low-wind PAFs from OX4.

Never forget the wonderful Vetta Juice. The level control provides up to 30dB of clean gain ... ! Park it at the end, just before the mixer block and assign a FS. It's an inexplicably overlooked tool :) Hope this helps.

I used to feel that way too, but not any more. As so often Pianoguyy is right. And this thread is great :)

What everyone else said, plus one simple thing: the amp models work just like real amps. So treat them like a real amp! Start simple. Keep it simple. There is *so much* you can do that the first mistake many people make is to go mad and pile in every this and that. Don't do it. Amp. Maybe a gain boost in front. Reverb behind. Work up slowly. It took me a year - with some help here and plenty of reference to MeAmBobbo's invaluable guide - but I have a clean tone, a crunch tone, an overdrive tone and another overdrive tone that I'm happy with (but everything's a work in progress, of course). And I've only scratched the surface with this thing. It is truly an Aladdin's Cave of tone. You'll have a blast.

Yes, of course. I was perhaps guilty of over-simplifying and I certainly agree that not all effects clip if Ch Vol is above ~50% and that you do sometimes need to crank it up to get a decent output level for direct USB recording. It's probably by chance that the loudest clean patch I can get balances well with high gain tones from models with CH Vol set at 45 - 50%. Since the volume of the clean patch is effectively the limit, this is my default setting for high-gain tones, so I tend to recommend it as a 'good' value to start experimenting. Perhaps I should have explained this earlier but then the comments run on for yards and people don't read them :)

What MAB says is consistent with what you say, hurghanico. Note that MAB does not state that the power amp crossover distortion *is* "digital clipping" (which he puts in scare quotes to emphasise the point) only that it is 'a particularly nasty sound that resembles digital clipping'. My problems in the past occurred when CH VOL was too high and the next effect in the chain after the amp clipped - exactly as you describe.

Without the tone guide I would never have begun to understand the HD well enough to get it to do what I want. You might want to look closely at the section on clipping. Watch out for Channel Volume (CH VOL). For most amp models, it should work best between 45% and 50%. Too high and you get digital clipping creeping in. At the end of the section, MAB writes (emphasis added):

As I said: Open gate: when the mouse is loud enough, it gets let in. Close gate: when the mouse is quiet enough, it gets zapped out of existence. -/+ dB scales are or should be self-explanatory.

Sorry for not being clear. I was trying to say that you may need to compromise between signal and line noise when setting the Open gate threshold.

Could be that jandrio has the fix there, StaffK. If soldering isn't your thing, then review the basics first :-) http://www.build-electronic-circuits.com/how-to-solder/ Or get someone else to sort this out. It isn't a £200 repair. I'm really sorry that you are having grief with this btw. I'd be irritated too, but I would try to *fix* the problem as well.