VAX700

Actually, you can go back to v1.71 by selecting Windows XP in Monkey (see the following quote). If you're struggling with dark lifeless tones, too much difference between mags and piezos, or if you seek better sounding acoustic models, FIRST try reinstalling the latest firmware. According to the L6 knowledge base dull/dark tones are a "known issue". Here's a direct quote: "A seemingly complete update can result in dull/dark audio output on all settings. This can be fixed by performing the update again." If that doesn't work, rolling back to an older version is your next option... But bear in mind, older firmware requires older non-HD Workshop, which means you'll lose some capability. However, if you change your mind, you can always return to more recent versions.

Interesting... But on closer inspection, the Neutrik Ethercon connectors look like an exact Variax match. https://proaudio.com/catalog/whirlwind-enc2s050-tactical-cat5e-shielded-cable-with-neutrik-ethercon-connectors-50.asp Anybody try these?

There's only one type of Variax connector, and it should click into the Variax sockets without trouble. Unscrewing the protective metal sleeve to "plug in" defeats its purpose, and of course the plastic connector won't stay in. Sounds to me like a misalignment between the sleeve and connector. The plastic tab on the connector should be aligned directly opposite the little hole on the side of the sleeve (which engages the thumb release). If you can't align it yourself you should return it for replacement. BTW this is the first I've heard of a misaligned connector. Hope that helps.

Very nice! Looks pro! Satin black suits the overall look of your guitar like it was meant to be. 🙂

No. They didn't step away from guitar modeling. In current production they have 3 JTV models, the Standard and the Shuriken. As for "modeled" guitars, it comes down to knowing how to tweak the tone on the multi-boards and workbench... Plus knowing how to optimize output to amps/PAs. Lots of pros swear by Variax for good reason: 1 guitar = 20. Though a "Spank" isn't a Strat, it comes damn close... and anyway, once you run your Strat through a compressor, EQ, delays, mods, gain stage, etc., it isn't a pure Strat sound anymore and no one can tell the difference. My opinion of course.

I feel your pain bro. But "fret" not... Try Allparts.com Here's the link https://www.allparts.com/buttons The TK-7714-003 black mini buttons for Gotoh are what you need... $20 for six. You'll also need nylon washers cause yours looks broken. https://www.allparts.com/bushings-and-buttons The TK-7716-025 will fit perfectly. Hope this helps.

I hear ya bro. I had the same with my JTV-59/HD500x/FirehawkFX. The mags have way more punch than the piezos. So I boosted amp volumes, compressors, gain, and tweaked the EQ on my boards to bring guitar models up to where I like em... I run LR outputs into my two guitar amps, or into amped studio monitors, and it sounds fine. Took some time... But worth it. When I switch to mags, I back the volume off using my EX-1 pedal... It's what a volume pedal is for anyway. That wasn't necessary with pre-JTV, piezo only Variaxes. I guess you can't have the best of both worlds without having to make some adjustments. Would be nice if L6 came up with a magic volume equalisation parameter in the next software upgrade. Hey, I can dream, can't I?

If I can jump in here, no one has mentioned string gauge, which has a major effect on string dynamics and acoustic sounds. I use 50/11's on my Variax 700 and JTV-59, and my acoustic models sound realistic... especially through a PA. I also have a 700 acoustic, and L6 recommends acoustic strings for that: I use Martin Flexible Core 52/11's. It's simple physics: Fatter strings produce richer acoustic resonances. The piezos/pickups and onboard electronics model the guitar's tonal qualities, but the resonant acoustic richness you get depends very much on string gauge. It's the first link in the chain. So... If you're using slinky 46/9's, you'll need to compromise to get the best of both electric and acoustic worlds. Don't "fret" pickup height too much. You'll have to lower your poles for fatter strings: too close and the magnetics will dampen string vibrations... lower on the low E; higher on the high E. You'll also want to get equal intensity from both ends so one doesn't overwhelm the other. Here a link to a great 6 part series by Joe Walsh on how to set up your guitar: it covers everything from neck bow to pickup height. If anyone knows, he does. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iKTXTWbI4FU Hope this helps.

And after you've filled up all the banks in Firehawk 1, you can move on to Firehawk 2... Or as silverhead suggested, you can simply add a Variax to your guitar collection : ) In either case, your feeling of satisfaction is well deserved.

True. You practically have to stand on it! Great idea! I'm getting a file outta my toolbox right now!

Yes, and some sliders don't allow assigned tweaks no matter how long you press and hold (like amp parameters for example). : )

Not surprising that no one has answered your questions: I guess no one wants to be the bearer of "bad news". When it comes to the Variax 700, the Firehawk FX is backward compatible but not completely. It will control Variax 700 models and tone knob, but it doesn't support tuning. Like the Magnetic Pick up option, String Tuning remains grayed out. The best you can do is save custom tunings/models to your Custom Knobs 1 & 2, then call them up from the Remote app. Likewise, the Firehawk is not backward compatible with the older Workbench software (the non-HD version) which you need installed in order to modify your 700. As well, the 700 can only interface with your computer via an older POD, like the XT Live or one of the old "bean" Pods. The only good news here is, you can buy one of those used for dirt cheap. When it comes to computers, processors, and software, it would be wonderful if everything was backward compatible with everything. But it's not. Sorry. :( On a positive note, the Variax 700 is a really phenomenal guitar... definitely a keeper. Lately, I've been playing a JTV-59 / Firehawk FX, but I took my 700 out of its case to test it before answering the above. Now I'm torn between the two... Time to switch. So many guitars, so little time, and just one of me.

I own both a Firehawk FX and HD 500X: I'd be hard pressed to get rid of one in favour of the other. In short, the Firehawk is a keeper. The bluetooth connect is a charm to use. My experience says it works best with ios. Pairing with my iPad is almost instantaneous, and syncing the remote app with my Firehawk just takes a few seconds. The app's intuitive visual interface makes choosing and tweaking amps/cabs and effects quick n easy. With a bit of experimenting, tones can be tweaked to the point of excellence. Of course any opinion about tone will be subjective, but for the price the Firehawk is damn good... as many here will attest. Note : You can also edit and save effects directly on the Firehawk using the Live Edit Mode (no BT app needed). To see how, check out the Firehawk FX manual at: Support > Technical Support > Manuals.

You can modify and save preset parameters, without using the remote app, by entering Live Edit Mode directly on your Firehawk FX. The answer is simple, but the process is a bit too long to explain here, so check out the manual (Rev. E) as indicated in silverhead's post above. And for a quick overview, see the L6 tutorial on Live Edit: https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=p2qlEX4Fwks Also, you can quick save any tone adjustments you make with the Drive/Bass/Mid/Treble/FX/Reverb and Blend modes (on the Master Volume Knob) by pressing and holding the currently lit preset toe switch (A/B/C/D) until the display flashes with an arrow next to the bank/preset number (eg. >06B); pressing and holding the same switch again while the display is flashing will save your adjustments. If you don't save, the display stops flashing in 5 sec., your changes remain set but they're not permanently stored.

Did any of the above solutions work? It would be good if you let us know. If not, you need to answer a few questions so we can get to the bottom of this. What device are you using for the remote app? I Did you get your Firehawk FX new or used? Did the BT button ever work? If it's new, whatever you do, don't open it... you'll void the warranty. Here's my advice: 1. Turn off the BT on your phone/tablet... better yet turn off your device completely. 2. Do a factory reset on your Firehawk. Hold down the "Master Volume knob" and the "TAP button" as you turn on the unit. Wait for the unit to reset, and then power it off for 30 seconds. 3. Turn your Firehawk back on and wait for it to boot. Then push the BT button and see if it flashes. If not, your unit is defective and needs to be returned for replacement or servicing. 4. If the BT button flashes, turn on the BT in your device and pair with your unit. Then open the Firehawk Remote app and see if it syncs with your unit. If you have trouble syncing, make sure you have the latest app (I think it's v. 1.3.3 build 68); and make sure the os in your device is also up to date. Let me know if this works.

Thanks for your encouraging reply. It's good to know that my analysis was correct and that I could help. Modern FX boards involve a learning curve: there's a lot to know, and to be frank, the instruction manuals are often sketchy. As you aptly stated, this forum is indeed a valuable resource for demystifying the process.

Wow! None of my Line 6 boards have ever frozen... and I own 3: PodXT Live, HD500X, and Firehawk FX. Looks like a jaw-dropping experience. You say it happens when switching between "standard" presets, so I assume you didn't change any of the FX parameters within those presets. That shouldn't make a difference, but you never know... If you did change parameters, it would be nice to know your exact settings, so I could replicate the scenario. Who knows? You might have uncovered a software bug. In any case, have you tried doing a Factory Reset? Hold down the Master Volume Knob and TAP footswitch at the same time while powering on the unit. That will restore your Firehawk FX to Factory Settings, BUT be sure to back up your saved presets to "My Tones" first. It's recommended that you recalibrate your pedal afterwards by following the instructions outlined above by "richiecat". I notice that you posted this problem one month ago. It would be nice to have a follow-up so we could know what happened. Thanks.

There's really no sound quality advantage between BT and RF: both are capable of transmitting 15 to 20,000 Hz. BT technology has steadily improved and latency issues have virtually disappeared with low latency codecs. Both are subject to interference: BT is sensitive to microwave frequencies; RF is sensitive to radio frequency sources (probably the cause of your background hiss). BT has a shorter transmission range, usually up to 30 feet, provided there are no intervening obstacles (such as re-enforced concrete walls) which break the signal up very quickly. RF signals are more robust, which is why RF is used in wireless mic and guitar applications. For monitoring purposes, BT is more than adequate... And ultimately, when it comes to sound quality, it's really the quality of your headphones that counts most.

So... What happened? It's not productive to start a thread and just leave it hanging. Did L6 replace your FHFX? Did that resolve the issue? I'm sure many of us would like to know.

Two different sound palettes. Two different interfaces. Two different boards. The FHFX is not an "improvement" over the HD500X; it's a sideways step rather that a step ahead. I bought both, thinking I'd get rid of one... But I can't! That's how good, and how different, they both are. Interface-wise, the Firehawk fares better on stage in a live gig environment, while the HD500X is more comfortable in a studio setting. Tone-wise, they are nearly equivalent -- but not identical. The HD500X is capable of rendering a somewhat deeper, more sophisticated sound palette. The FHFX, while certainly no slouch in the tone department, finds better use delivering more standard, tried and true tones and effects. Anyhow, that's my opinion, subjective as it may be... And I'm sticking by it.

Actually, you can send Bluetooth from the Firehawk FX to BT headphones. (Sorry phil_m.) I do it every day, here's how: I use an Avantree Saturn Pro BT transmitter plugged into the headphone output jack of my Firehawk (using a 1/4 inch TRS to mini stereo jack adapter). The Saturn Pro works very well because it uses the AptX LL codec (32 ms latency) so there is virtually no perceptible BT lag, BUT PLEASE NOTE, you need BT phones that also incorporate the AptX LL codec. If you go to the AptX website, you'll find a list of BT headphones that use the Low Latency codec. Trust me... This works very well, and there is no interference with the Firehawk's onboard BT remote app connection. The Saturn Pro is small, inexpensive, usb rechargeable, and can be switched to either receive or transmit. In fact, Avantree also sells Saturn Pros in pairs, which is worthwhile. I have a second one, set to receive, plugged into my studio sound system... the stereo output, chorus effects and ping-pong delays are amazing. Anyway, Avantree is a reliable company with cutting-edge technology. I got my Saturn Pros two years ago at Amazon, I use them every day, and they never let me down. Hope that helps.

I been using an Avantree Saturn Pro plugged into the headphone output jack of my Firehawk; it works very well and pairs with everything. The Saturn Pro uses the AptX LL codec (32 ms latency) so there is no perceptible BT lag. It's small, usb rechargeable, and can be switched to either receive or transmit. In fact, Avantree also sells Saturn Pros in pairs, which is worthwhile. I have the second one, set to receive, plugged into my sound system... the stereo chorus effects and ping-pong delays are amazing. Anyway, Avantree is reliable and has cutting-edge technology. I got mine two years ago at Amazon, I use them every day, and they haven't let me down. Hope that helps.

I own 3 Variax guitars: Vax 700, 700 acoustic and JTV-59; I also own 3 Line 6 FX boards: XT Live, HD500X and Firehawk FX. I set out thinking I'd try them for a while, see what I like best and get rid of what I don't. That was over two years ago! Each instrument and each board has its quirks and its "keeper" attributes. Of course, tone is the priority, followed by user interface and control. OK... Looks also enter the equation, but rank fourth. The Firehawk is a joy to use: great tone (HD & SD both sound great); quality construction; the remote BT app is a breeze to navigate and use... Plus, the multi-coloured switch lights are not just practical, they're really pretty too. I use an EX-1 expression pedal and know when to avoid various artifacts (clicks, pops, and lags) when switching. It's like anything else: You need to learn how to use it to best advantage. The truth is, I have a "symbiotic" relationship with my rig: it plays me as much as I play it. Each guitar and board provides new soundscapes, new creative inspiration and... new music comes out. Bottom line: I love my Firehawk FX, quirks 'n' all, and won't be ditching it any time soon. (Just don't tell my wife.)

What's probably happened is some of the FX in the preset banks have pedal assigned "tweaks", which means your volume pedal has been assigned to control various parameters, such as wah, pitch bends, etc. When this is the case, both wah and volume lights come on at the same time, and the volume pedal toe switch has no effect (see Configuring Pedal Functionality in the Firehawk FX Pilot's Guide). When both lights are on for a particular preset, go through the FX banks for that preset in the Firehawk FX remote app, looking for "assign to pedal" effects, and select "no". (Synth effects, for example, are often "assigned to pedal".) After selecting no, your volume pedal will work normally, and the "intensity" of the effect can be assigned to the FX knob on the Firehawk board instead. But you need the app installed on a bluetooth capable tablet or phone to do this. Note: If you plug a second volume / expression pedal into the pedal 2 input jack, then the onboard volume pedal toe switch will work normally, toggling either wah or volume. Hope this helps.

I have a JTV-59 and Firehawk FX and can absolutely confirm that Firehawk patches (aka presets) let you to choose between magnetic pickups or Variax models. If you prefer, you can also select models, tones and tunings within presets and allow the Firehawk to control the guitar -- handy for changing both Fx and guitar settings simultaneously with a simple toe tap (no fiddling with guitar knobs). I also own an HD500X plus a legacy XT Live and I love em all. I can tell you that the Firehawk HD and SD tones both sound amazing; the bluetooth interface is incredible; and the multi-coloured toe-switch lights offer an intuitive (and beautiful) experience. Take the plunge... You'll be glad you did.