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One does not simply ...

Yes, headphones. And sorry about the cable mess. For those familiar with the 4CM, that's my patented 37 Cable Method. :)

Made me go look (and listen). That's going on my WANT list. :) Choir? From a guitar? No way ... but there it is. That thing sounds great.

Infrared. :)

Excellent! The routing on the Helix has been extremely well thought out. You mentioned in your first post you are using L6 link to an L3M. I am sooooo close to pulling the trigger on a pair of L3T's it's not funny. I don't plan to need to move them around too much, so that's why I'm leaning toward L3's instead of L2's but I'm sure L2's would be adequate but from the prices I've seen, L2's and L3s are basically the same price or so close that the difference is not significant. And I was thinking the L3's would have a little better low end with the extra 10" speaker and crossover for stuff like bass and drums and synth. Are you liking the L3M? Are you feeding it exclusively using L6 link? Any issues? Still sound decent at lower volumes as well? I'm wanting the pair for stereo.

No problem! I've attached a screen shot of something similar - to create a separate input for path 2B, create a block on 2A and drag it to 2B. If you pull the split-point down to 2B, that should create a separate input to 2B as shown. Then selectthe input point, and then rotate the selector to be the input you want. In the case above, I'm using Return 1. And in the case above, I have the merge going out the normal multi-out. But to separate that, select the far right merge-point, and drag it down to 2B also, and that should create and entirely separate 2B path with its own input section and output section. Then select which output you want it to go to at the far right. So the attachment isn't exactly what you want, but it's very close - just a few tweaks and it should get you close to what you want.

Could you create a separate path like path 2B, set the input to Return 1/2, feed the Beat Buddy stereo out into those, set the output of Path 2B to USB 3/4. For monitoring, you could then monitor from the DAW? That way USB 1/2 would be your processed guitar, USB 7/8 would by your dry guitar, and USB 3/4 would be your Beat buddy. Your DAW would collapse those into a single stereo channel for monitoring but each would go to a separate track. That would also let you add a little reverb or whatever depending on the situation for your drum track, too.

If I'm not mistaken, if you ignore the top higher resolution bar in the 2.0 tuner, the lower bar is the same as the pre-2.0 tuner, so you have both versions in the one display in the 2.0 tuner - both pre-2.0 and post-2.0. So I believe it will do what you want without any changes.

Just thought I'd add another video - I watched this a while back. Rabea Massaad comes up with some really great Djent tones in this video. These are NOT from Helix, and I'm not really a djent guy, but I definitely like these - especially the Amptweaker pedals. While the host has him try out and evaluate a few different pedals, he goes into what he's looking for in a good djent tone which could be useful when dialing in a Helix patch. That's at around 21:40'ish into the video if you want to skip ahead.

Was just trying to help a guy out - there weren't much by way of suggestions before that, so perhaps it served it's purpose by drawing out a few folks who can get him get more in the ballpark. Based on the djent tone descriptions, though, it looked like the video had all or most of the right elements. At that point, perhaps its more of seasoning to taste. :)

Up-voted just for this. :) We should have a sticky thread dedicated just for cruisinon2's humorous analogies and snippets of wisdom. :)

My HS8's are on stands putting them at head height, so they are not sitting directly on a desk or actually near a wall. As DunedinDragon mentioned, they have a couple of switches to compensate for the room - one for bass (0, -2db, or -4db tail-off below 500Hz) and a 3-position high trim (+2db, 0, and -2db for above 2kHz). Both mine are on the null/zero setting and I actually haven't messed with those.

I think he's saying it will do that naturally if it's reasonably close. The string just cannot vibrate in two halves creating the octave from nearby positions, so if you hit a nearby position and get that octave tone, it's going to be an octave because the string will naturally do that, finding it's own natural vibration point if you are just close to it. If it had to be micrometer precise, no one would ever be able to hit an octave harmonic. Harmonics only exist at certain points, of course, and the 12 fret, 1/2 wavelength, is the strongest of all of them. Get close, and the string will do the rest. Otherwise, you wouldn't be able to set your intonation reasonably accurately. The octave of the string is precise. When intonating, you change the length of the string to fine tune the location of the harmonic octave node to match your fret location. Conversely, the 12th fret harmonic, by definition, is twice the frequency of the open string, independent of fret positions, and doing a harmonic there will guarantee a stable note that is double the frequency of your open string.

Ha, if it's worth doing, it's worth over-doing. :) You're completely, right, though. I just get carried away, sometimes. Ok, I get carried away a lot. :)

I've got a pair just like this, except the HS8's. They sound great with the Helix. I'm still drooling over a pair of l2 or l3t's, though. Someone please talk me out of them. :) It's not a matter of need, but of want. :)

That was incredible! Loved it!! :) You obviously haven't heard, though, you can't get great tone from the Helix. Just not possible. :) <ducks and hides>

That was great!

Ditto.

One way is to attach the photo to the post itself. When posting, click the "More Reply Options" at the bottom right beside the "Post" button. Under there, you have the option to attach files, which can be photos. They'll show up as thumbnails in the post, but when you click them, they go full size. That way all the content is on the Line 6 servers and doesn't have to go off-site to google, photobucket, etc.

I noticed what I perceived to be faster patch switching also after 2.0, also, though didn't see any reference to it in the release notes. Seemed fairly significantly faster that what I remembered from before 2.0, though. Still noticeable, but I'd guess around twice as fast, give or take. It's entirely possible it's all my head - I didn't pay too much attention to it before since the patch switch time didn't affect me directly.

Ah - that might explain it. My Helix is on my desk so I can easily edit it and the pedal is always in the toe position. I rarely use it, so it pretty stays there all the time. But even when I move it, I don't get the edit indicator. But your tracking it down to that is as good an explanation as I've heard so far.

Congrats, roscoe5! I have been following this and was interested in the outcome. Glad it worked out and your experience is a good reference, not to mention a nice bit of recycling something old and busted into something very useful, way better than aluminum cans and plastic bottles. :) For some reason the later photos aren't showing up for me, though. Bummer.

Just to clarify, not to be confused with robbieb61, what I was referring to wasn't due selecting a different snapshot once on a preset. I got the edit indicator when selecting a whole new preset. They were marked edited immediately after being loaded.

Go to: http://line6.com/software/index.html You'll see 3 selector drop-downs near the top. Under Product, select "Helix". Under Software, select "Helix". Make sure your OS is selected correctly. Click "Go". Should look something like this (attached). That's the "Helix Editor" - v2.00 is listed first, with older versions below it.