theElevators

Use the output level as the last resort. If you can't achieve the high enough volume you need otherwise, then crank the output level.. It does introduce noises in certain cases when you switch between presets/snapshots where the output level is different. Instead, there are lots of workarounds to achieve the same: Add a fixed volume pedal, boost, or EQ, or simply adjust the output level of some of your blocks. For example, in my lead sound, I have an EQ. The EQ has an output level. So I can dial in the output level of my EQ sound so that it balances perfectly. You can even have an EQ block that does not actually equalize, just controls the volume level in your chain. From experience, do not mess with the amp settings between your snapshots -- that also introduces pops/crackles and boings.

And learn how to solder

There's also the pickup height and angle that play a very important role in how your guitar "sustains" and how bright it sounds. I had my strat set up for that quacky sound for the longest time. That meant pickups were pretty low. Recently I decided to make it match my other guitar in terms of volume and tone. All I did was raised the pickups and all of a sudden it completely transformed from the quacky twangy sound to a singing rich with harmonics rock machine.... the sustain increased too. If you raise the pickups too high, then the sustain can actually decrease as the magnet interferes with the string at this point. Sustain can be both electronic and physical, of course. You can hear the strings vibrate, but if the pickups are too low it sounds dead. There's a middle ground where it works optimally. If I were to describe in terms of tonewood cliches what a few turns of the screwdriver did... it changed my guitar from that maple sparkly immediate attack to a more resonant full-bodied chocolatey rosewood sound. I was actually shocked... now that guitar could be used as a backup for my main axe. Whereas before, none of my presets worked with it properly.

I am a user of both Helix floor and LT. I have the exact same setup you are describing. I go to FOH in stereo with XLR (L/R) cables and use Left/Mono 1/4" for my personal monitor mix. However.... I experience a bug that always comes back shown below. See other threads regarding Left/mono not working correctly. When I power on my Helix, I must always plug something into the right 1/4", then unplug it. Without doing that, Left/Mono 1/4" is not summing the signal correctly. If you want to be sure you don't experience this live, then perform the trick I describe. If you play professional gigs and you don't want to unexpectedly start hearing something weird your important solo moment? -- then perform the trick I describe. I tried using an adapter to combine Left 1/4" and Right 1/4" into a single 1/4" jack. However, the signal was noticeably hotter that way. So I went back to (see below).

I also played this big outdoor music festival one time and played my Chinese Ignition Hofner bass, which sounds freaking sweet. At the end of our set, a guy came up to me and complimented on the bass, saying it sounded phenomenal. Then I told him it's a 300-dollar Chinese bass, and he immediately lost interest. That made me LOL. BTW, here's a recording with that amazing bass. I love how this song came out, except a few double bass-drum things that the drummer did. A plywood Chinese instrument into a vintage 1960's compressor, into Logic.

check global settings: you can set the output level for all your outputs: XLRs, 1/4", etc. For example, for me the XLRs are set at a microphone level, and the volume knob controls the 1/4" but not the XLRs. Maybe you have your 1/4" set at a microphone level.

There are some topics that immediately divide the people into truthers and conspiracy theorists. I think it's rather interesting to shatter that status quo, and maybe realize that we all have fallen victim to a scam perpetuated by the traditionalist thinking :) Or maybe to make us pay way more for our gear than we should. I bet you, there'll be a video of the same guy doing an analog amp v. modeled amp soon.. Aren't we all Helix users? Here's what I have gathered so far: Re: tonewood: with a solid-body guitar and non-microphonic pickups, the wood, granite, glass, plastic or non-wood makes such an insignificant difference, that it can be practically ignored. So, if you take the Gilmour Black strat, it can sound extremely similar to a well set-up Squier if you pull out the pickguard out of it and install it into that new body. Why spend thousands of dollars on a custom shop guitar, if you can achieve extremely similar results if you have quality parts and build an exact same guitar out of the same components? If you have a hollow-body guitar, however, then obviously it feeds back, resonates and rattles differently. And since every pickup is microphonic to a certain extent, the hollow body guitar has more acoustic-guitar sound mixed in. A vintage non-potted or simply crappy pickup that is extremely microphonic will pick up things other than the string vibration. People listen with their eyes. Light wood is bright, dark wood is dark-sounding. Ultimately, IMO it's about playability and being inspired by your gear. Plus there's familiarity with your gear--if you practice your guitar everyday, you know all if its characteristics and you begin to learn how to overcome all of its quirks, dead notes, warped neck, etc.

The first video about guitar amps really blew my mind... I mean I think I can always dial in my "signature" sound with any amp, unless it's uncontrollably overdriven or too boomy... But this is just fantastic. Take that, you cork-sniffers!

thanks guys! Yes, clearly a scam... although I have found bargain prices before so it can happen. For example bought the Helix LT open box for 900 dollars open box, and my main Brian May guitar that goes for like 6 grand now for 1200 USD... Will be more vigilant in the future!

https://getyourmusicalinstruments.shop/products/line-6-hx-stomp-multi-effect-and-amp-modeler?_pos=2&_sid=532d4c126&_ss=r stomp is for $297.00 USD I'm tempted to buy one to flip it, if anything...

https://getyourmusicalinstruments.shop/products/line-6-helix-multi-effects-floor-pedal Anybody know if this is legit? Or some kinda scam?

flew with my Helix 10 times--no issues.

In my experience, the drives in the Helix are nothing like their supposed real-world counterparts. For example, Deez-1 or whatever it's called did not work in any way like DS-1. So I used classic distortion.

you can do it from HX Edit. For snapshots, you can right click on the snapshot name, and select the color. I'm sure you can do the same for the stomp(s). I don't have the Helix in front of me.

maybe you have a gate on the input that mutes your sound?

As for the phase invert.... there isn't a direct switch for it, but when using a parallel path the merge block allows you to flip the "b" polarity.I don't know how the LR Baggs implements it... but if it's just a phase reversal on the output (common) you could try this... In your chain, drop one effect to the B path In the split block, change it from a Y to a Split A/B and route ONLY to the B side In the merge block Set your A level to it's lowest setting possible. this is just a precaution to make sure no signal is bypassing the B path Now you can invert your entire signal by changing the "B Polarity" as required. source ( )

A word of caution with the momentary switching, there are bugs that keep coming back. Essentially the button can get inverted. It came back in the last firmware update 3.50: "Helix Floor/Rack only—While in 10 Stomp footswitch mode, the momentary state of FS1 or FS7 can sometimes become reversed ". I have had this happen when I wore socks, the buttons were getting flipped on 2.8. The expression pedal would also very rarely get flipped. If you do this one simple step, this will not happen. How to not have it get flipped: 1. remove snapshot bypass assignment from the effect(s) 2. assign a control, such as an expression pedal, or a button in pedalboard mode. Additionally in 3.15 they introduced a new way to control the effects with the expression pedal, there is a new "behavior" setting "Heel Down" or "Toe Down". I personally experienced a bug where HX Edit on a Mac: you make changes on one preset, and other presets get affected. There was no word of this getting fixed, so at least, check all your presets are working correctly, as you should whenever you experiment with stuff... It's a good practice to always run through your entire set of presets before an important show, etc. So there you go some info for ya. I personally use snapshots exclusively. I also have my pedalboard view mirror my snapshots... for all the effects that I want to momentarily engage, I use the expression pedal -- it's a lot easier to do. For example I have a song where I have clean sound, and play fills with distortion. I engage the distortion sound with the expression pedal > 5%.

If the pedal is moving fine mechanically, and is not crooked, then the issue must be with the optical sensors... It's like this: LED -> triangular opening that enlarges as you move the pedal from heel to the toe position -> sensor that interprets the light. I'm not really technical, but that's essentially how the optical expression pedal works. So if it never goes to 0%, then you can take apart the pedal and put a little piece of electrical tape to make the triangular opening smaller. That way you have more room for it to be at 0 %. Maybe in your case, something got deformed due to humidity. Watch this basically. Good luck.

I keep using my 17+ old Clavia Nord Electro 2 as an example. I have seen what's inside, and it's tiny components, switches, etc. Everything to this day works flawlessly, every key, button and LED. I also know people who play a Kurzweil workstation from 20+ years ago--still works. Regarding optical expression pedals, same thing. I have had a Bad Horsie for 12 years without a single issue.

You can also get an external pedal and use that in the interim. For example, I built all my presets to only use EXP 2 and never EXP 1. I can always make all my presets work seamlessly with the external EXP, and I never use the toe switch. Line 6 gear is built with cheap Chinese POS parts. 1600 USD piece of equipment should not break after a year or 2 years, but it does. I know people who used Pod HD 500 for like 10 years live with no issues, touring musicians. But, anyway, cheap Chinese crap that can always fail when you least expect it, means you need to have a backup... or at the very least build your rig "modular"-ly....one thing fails, you can always reconfigure your presets, etc. I was actually surprised that Kemper is also following suit with the cost cutting approach... take a look at the same flimsy laughable microswitches. Everybody is now doing this.

Thanks, but I'm in NYC :) Good news, Line 6 responded that they would fix the light for me, and that's what I will do as I cannot afford any more stripped screws, and other shenanigans. Will do that once I'm done with the touring, because it's cutting it way too short.

One thing about Headrush, is they are so light! I always have one with me in my trunk. It's great for small jams or even rehearsals. A side note about my experience with FRFR's, is they have this very weird projection of sound. It can be loud if you are directly in front of them, and then you would not hear anything if you step away. Just like your typical wedge monitor. I still stand by my choice of amplification--a 12" speaker cab + a portable power amp. My own compact rig is Mooer Baby Bomb + Orange 112. Or using Fender Twin Reverb works equally well. You get a realistic "amp on stage" sound and feel that an FRFR will never give you IMHO. With the Twin Reverb, I've used it as a keyboard monitor, or acoustic violin monitor/amp for decades. It can do anything, including being a monitor.

So, I've yet to experience the second-to-none customer service all the fanboys are raving about! All kidding aside, I opened a ticket with Line 6 after calling them on the phone with all the info as I was instructed. Today had a follow up call assuring me I'd receive an answer today 2 weeks and 1 day later. Maybe it's the Xmas season.... IDK. But I'm starting to get more and more annoyed with everything hardware/service related. I actually gave up on the L/Mono bug... priorities...

Also why use a Helix at all… Helix has IRs etc. The whole point of using a processor IMO is to not lug all the heavy stuff around, not to Uber complicate the setup. I highly recommend using what’s in the Helix instead, I guarantee it’s great.

Yes I have had the Helix freeze as well where I had no choice but restart it, but only while connected to the computer and with HX Edit. No crashes live yet.