theElevators

You shouldn't not transpose the initial attack, while transposing everything else. On bass, you never really play one note at a time a 100% of the time... once you start playing multiple pitches at once, that will have weird artifacts... as notes that should be sustained may start jumping around in pitch....

They can easily have different special edition color schemes... Just like Helix products come in white, blue, red, grey (aside from the regular black).

yeah... the on-screen editor is great to have, but I too do a majority of my editing using HX Edit. I don't know, I've always thought that Headrush was very harsh-sounding and very digital. Nobody up till now has posted any shoegaze or surf-type of things on YouTube playing it... Well, I was in Texas a few months ago, and a country guitarist was getting all that twangy tone out of the Headrush processor... I guess the Line 6 processors also had that reputation as being catered for metal type of music mostly. It's interesting to see how products evolve, and I'm not ditching my Helix, because as I said many times before, I've invested way too much time into building my presets and that'd be insane to scrap it all and go to the latest and the greatest gadget.

First of all this does absolutely everything, including pedal (including fuzz), and amp captures... Second of all the price is $1,200 which is sick!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225486204920?epid=133882657 ahahahaha! what a steal!

play around with mix, return db level. Alternatively, try click on "multi" (first circle), and change it to "return 1".

If you want some presets to accept guitar 1, and another set of presets to accept guitar 2, you can simply edit each set of presets and in the first "multi" change it to whatever other input you want. Or you can add a "return" block in the beginning of the chain. See my video how:

I use the volume pedal pedal in a weird/unconventional way, I leave it fixed to cut the input volume. I always clean up my guitar sound by rolling down the volume knob on my guitar. When I have time to do that, I use the knob. When the changes happen very fast like Nirvana/Pixies, I sometimes put a fixed volume pedal in the beginning of the chain. That way I can switch between the clean/dirty sound instantaneously. I have one snapshot that is clean (with the volume pedal engaged at 10%), and one that is dirty (volume pedal bypassed). I find that always having gain in my sound makes it sound more "alive" as opposed to "dead" for the clean sounds; plus there's all this compression that you get which is nice. But that's just me. I have dialed in my main basic sound and all the other sounds are variations on the dirty sound...

I've heard that on my Helix--if you have different amps between the 2 presets, and if you have any transpose blocks, or if you have a different impedance settings for the same amp, they do produce a noise.

The switch will only work for Helix Rack btw, otherwise looks good. There are lots of expression pedal options, including Line 6, which is your plastic Roland-type expression pedal.

If you won't have a PA at home, then you can't replicate how your Helix will sound and interact with other instruments in the mix through a PA. You will never know what will happen until you go and run your Helix through a loud sound system in a club. Professional bands rent out clubs in the off-hours on like Sunday Morning to tune their gear. Us commoners just go and rent out a rehearsal space and run our Helix through a PA of the rehearsal space. Here's the kicker, every space has its own unique frequency spectrum, and with an identical PA system, identical mixing console... in each venue the sound guy may need to make drastic changes to your sound so you sound like yourself. What is the best approach? You gotta just do sound checks and adjust things in increments. I've been using the Helix for 3+ years now. Every other sound check we find something that can be further fine-tuned. Heck, your entire life you are constantly fine-tuning what you are doing, and adjusting. That's just how it is. Confused by what I said? Start with building your sounds at home, then take them to the studio, then be prepared to further adjust your sounds at sound checks. The fewer presets you have, the easier it is to adjust them. Otherwise copy-paste those changes.

First, check if the issue is not on Ableton side. For example, in Logic Pro X, to record stereo, you need to first enable stereo on the track. It'll be receiving USB 1 and USB 2 (left/right) Then, check in in/outs of global settings: USB 1/2 what is the destination? Set it to Multi.

Put Poly Capo on the beginning of the chain. Set the tracking to "X Fast", Auto EQ: 7, Mix: 100%, Level to taste, Interval to -3 for example. here you go.

They should just offer to disable this "ballistic" behavior in global settings--problem solved.

Check if your expression pedal is set to "per snapshot" for your Expression Pedal 2. Set it to "per preset" instead, that's what I personally use. Or use "global". Basically, do you want your expression pedal's percentage to stay the same when you go between presets/snapshots? -- global: your expression pedal stays a the same percentage when you change your presets or snapshots -- per preset: your expression pedal gets reset to the percentage that you saved your preset as -- per snapshot: your expression pedal gets reset to the percentage that you saved each individual snapshot as Go to Global settings / EXP pedals / and twist the knob for your Expression Pedal 2 and set it to the desired value. Otherwise, if you have it "per snapshot", then when you switch to that snapshot, the position of the expression pedal is as you saved it. So if you saved that snapshot with the pedal at 6% instead of 0%, you will have this engaged wah sound....

It's also pretty easy to copy/paste snapshots on the Helix itself. HX Edit makes it a lot easier to copy/paste things though. I still recommend knowing how to do all these things on the Helix itself. For example, I had to redo my preset 10 minutes before showtimes without a computer one time. My general recommendation is that if you have let's say 2 sounds throughout your song: rhythm and solo, designate one button to your solo sound (right-most bottom), and the rest of the buttons will be rhythm. So you don't have any snapshots that are unusable or non-applicable in your preset. Also color-coding your solo/rhythm sounds can be of great help. I have an entire video if you'd like to see, various visual cues. https://youtu.be/o0S6WNKXQKc

Typically for vocal you need to have enough gain, so that the sound is uniform, you can add compressor to accomplish the same, then add reverb/delay. I would not add any amp, unless you want special effects, like Leslie'ed vocals.

The micro switches under the metal buttons are cheap and will stop being reliable after about a year of regular gigging use. If you are handy with electronics, open it up and clean out all of your switches whenever this starts happening. The procedure is very simple, in essence: locate the micro switches, and apply liquid DeoxIT to them, and press them a few times. I like liquid (not spray) DeoxIT, because it's only one drop, nothing gets sprayed in the process, you don't need to be careful where you spray, etc. The switches to me became as smooth as butter after the cleaning. watch a video on how it's done. https://youtu.be/WONiwe0vjH0 Helix is built like your typical Chinese gadget (Kemper floor is no different): looks solid from the outside, but inside is all microscopic PCB stuff with cheap components. In particular, the little button plungers are not held by anything, if you flip the unit upside-down they will all fall and you will not find them. you need a big table with a towel for this job -- can't do it on your lap. I use Tupperware / bowls / shot glasses to store all the parts, like screws/bolts/nuts. Sort all your screws by height, etc. Take a picture of what's inside before you start taking things apart -- that way will know how it used to be. A tablet is very useful for these. When I cleaned micro switches on the Helix LT, I did not have to take apart any ribbons, remove any glue, etc. If you are afraid of performing this procedure yourself, take it to a repair place with a good repuration. I have had a terrible experience with 2 repair shops, maybe yours will be different. If you are not in a hurry, mail it to Line 6. After one repair shop broke the LED of my Helix, I mailed it to Line 6, and they repaired it within exactly 2 weeks door-to-door, back to me. I'm pretty sure they simply replaced the entire PCB for me. So here you go. This will keep happening. I suspect the black foam that is there where the screens are deteriorates especially at first, and little crumbs of it gets stuck inside the micro switches, especially those you use the most, like your tap tempo. cheers. d.

Yes. Touch 2 buttons (don’t press). There’ll be a menu offering to swap them.

Awesome that you're back in business! That must have been scary. The main advice in all of this, take it from a computer programmer: Never ever update your firmware or completely re-do your setup right before an important gig. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. With any firmware update, give yourself ample time to make sure there are no issues whatsoever. The last thing you need is for your HX product or any other piece of equipment to give you unexpected results live. I've seen too many posts here where somebody decided to upgrade right before a gig and [temporarily] bricked their Helix... and then they are trying to desperately fix it. For example, I was quick to jump on the 3.15 bandwagon, but soon realized that there were serious bugs that affected bypass behavior of my wah pedal... Those bugs were not addressed until (supposedly) 3.50. So I quickly reverted back because I did not feel like dealing with various workarounds and other headaches involved. So, want stability and expected results? Stay away from the very last update, unless you have test-driven everything and you are confident every single preset still works. ... that if you change one preset, it does not mess up other presets (which was the issue for me on 3.15). There are always bugs that pop up where the existing behavior of various blocks, or other things changed between firmware versions. No matter what change I make, I always re-test every single preset to triple-check everything still works correctly.

Yep, it's just a bolt, some washers, a nut. If the nut keeps loosening, then there's some excessive friction that is happening. Lubrication should fix it. You can even add some plumbers tape so that the nut stays in place to prevent it from loosening by itself. Yep, all that stuff is sold in your hardware store. Very simple mechanism, but if things are not tightened enough or not lubricated, then you'll have issues. Make sure to really tighten the "claw" screws, mine were loose and that caused all sorts of issues. This video illustrates what's involved. Watch it multiple times and good luck.

I seriously doubt that a Helix/Stomp adds coloring to the signal if you have no blocks.... have you checked the output level? Set the level to "line" and disable the volume knob. (some will say leave the volume on max, but for the sake of this experiment, let's disable it to be sure we are actually getting line level) The experiment: 1. take an amp and play with just a 1/4" cable and no pedals 2. now add your Stomp and play the same. Are you saying that now you get more low end that you didn't have before? But yeah... Global EQ is meant to make adjustments to the sound you are happy with. Do not build your sound with the help of Global EQ. GE is only if you get on stage and your cabinet is too boomy or the sound guy is complaining. Every venue, cab, stage construction will change your sound... ...Or some weird frequency it there that is undesirable.... (that's what my sound guy always asks me to do, EQ one pesky frequency that does not even bother me on stage)

I play a Brian May guitar myself, although I don't go for the Queen sound at all. I use a wireless and I don't see any difference in how the guitar clean up, etc with it or without it going direct with a cable. I'm pretty sure that's why the man himself puts the treble booster on the Red Special strap right before the transmitter. I love the volume knob trick, and my sound is always configured in such a way -- rather than turning off the distortion for clean sounds, I simply cut the input volume either with my volume knob, or with a fixed volume pedal on the Helix. Maybe you can try downloading a free Brian May preset on custom tones, and seeing how it works out for you. I did for the heck of it, and yep, sounded like Brian May. I say it's mostly cork sniffing to run the treble booster right out of the guitar.... Similarly to how some people swear by their vintage Vox wah, even though all it is is a filter that most modellers have. I use a Shure GLXD16 (now discontinued) and without any cable simulations it acts exactly the same as if I had a cable there. There may be tiny differences, but I mostly just go wireless, unless I record stuff in a studio.

There are too many incompatibilities in terms of lack of loops/routing. I was able to quickly recreate my Helix presets for the Pod Go by connecting two devices and opening HX Edit / Pod GO Edit side by side. Maybe you can try the same approach? Or at least take screenshots of each block...? I also needed to redo my the delay mix when recreating my presets for Pod Go because there is no way to add effects in parallel (which is how I like to do it on the Helix), so in series, the balance is completely different -- henceforth I had to use my ears. Other than that, I recreated each preset in about 5 minutes.