theElevators

Have you tried factory presets? If you select a "blank" "new preset" preset, is there still noise? How exactly are you connecting your Helix, and what do you use to hear the sound you're making?

You can get your setlist from HX Edit. If you have 20 songs or so, you can capture those titles in one go.

That's because you are missing the "amp in the room" feeling. That feeling you can only get when you have an amp in the room. Helix, or any other guitar processor creates the CD-quality amp + cab + mic + mic pre + eq + compression sound -- that's the whole point of it. What works for me as well as countless others is to simply use a guitar cabinet onstage with your processor for that familiar feeling. To play guitar properly, you need some kind of stage volume, period. In my opinion, FRFRs or wedge monitors do not give you the same air movement as a simple 12" speaker cab would. That's why I got myself a Mooer Baby Bomb power amp that I connect to a single 12" speaker cab (either a standalone or from a combo amp). It feels like I'm playing a tube amp, I get feedback, I can step away from it if it's too loud, I can come closer to it if I have a tricky part coming up, it helps me really chug the chords properly. Without a speaker onstage, no matter what I do, I cannot get the palm muting right. It needs to be felt somehow, it needs to chug. I don't bother with having a separate EQ for my on-stage volume, I dialed it in in such a way that it's neutral. Feels absolutely the same as if I had my tube amp on stage. Sounds great, inspiring, and everybody says what an amazing sound I have live, so many different colors, textures and stereo effects. All the valve amp purists are a joke at this stage. Helix, Axe FX, Kemper are all capable of great live tones. Countless blind tests were conducted where people could not even figure out whether they were playing a real amp or a digital emulation. Dial in your basic tone and then leave it alone, no need to have a different amp for each song. I haven't touched my core sound in 2.5 years -- I do however keep tweaking delays, reverbs and other things of that nature that vary from song to song.

OK, so let's try a few things. Don't rush to buy anything new before you try what I've outlined below :) 1. OK, so first, try to get my signal chain going with an internal Helix amp. See: https://youtu.be/ueDcqkpzNAsr where I show all my settings. For my sound I use classic distortion and Mail Order Twin--nothing remotely similar to what Brian May used. Use headphones/monitors/computer speakers, or even a powered speaker (like one of those Bluetooth boomboxes). Does it sound good that way? No distortion of the harmonized notes? Now, run the same exact thing, but connect Helix to the "return" jack of your Vox AC30. Does it sound good at all volumes? If your Vox AC30 adds distortion, then that's unfortunately something you cannot control with the gear you currently have. Ideally, a power amp should not color your sound at all. Some amps like Marshalls unfortunately do! 2. It doesn't appear you can disconnect the speakers easily to tap into the speakers on your amp, you need to open up the amp, and disconnect things, possibly un-solder wires, unless yours is different. On most modern amps, that is possible. For example on most Fender amps, there's a jack in the back that says "speakers". There's a 1/4" cable from the speakers that plugs into it. My stage setup is to send XLR left/right to FOH, while the 1/4" jack is only used as a monitor mix. I run Helix 1/4" into Mooer Baby Bomb power amp that is connected to the speaker of a Fender Deluxe amp. Fender Deluxe is not powered!, as I only use it as a standalone speaker cabinet. So I simply connect that little 1/4" cable from the speaker to the output of Mooer Baby Bomb. I also have an Orange 112 speaker cab. When I can bring my own stuff to a gig, I do the same thing: Helix -> Mooer Baby Bomb -> Orange 112 for stage volume. BTW. Soon after I acquired the Helix and I bought Baby Bomb, I actually sold my tube amp, since I no longer needed it. I'm very happy with the setup I described above. A speaker cab is always cheaper/lighter than a whole amp. And Mooer Baby Bomb is absurdly small and compact. I did a quick search, and there are Vox speaker cabinets that are available. So if it's important for you for the visual aspects to have a Vox amp-looking thing on stage, you can just purchase it.... it's also something like 20 lbs lighter than an AC30 https://voxamps.com/product/v212c-extension-cabinet/ Video about Mooer Baby Bomb:

Just for fun, forget about 4 cable method. Can you make it work with Helix's own amp, as I show it? Maybe your power amp is very very distorted, is there a way to clean it up? Try changing the output level of the "send" blocks (instrument/line/mic) in Global Settings, it can be too hot for your power amp and you may be getting unwanted tube distortion! or the speakers are "nicely broken in", so they distort the signal. Just out of curiosity, what amp/cab are you using? IMO, as I've said before, 4-cable method was a nice thing to do in the olden days. In 2023 it makes little sense to use a real amp in conjunction with a processor. Too many factors to consider, too much inconsistency. Take it from a former cork-sniffer. Just use the Helix, it has all the amps you could possibly ever need. Your amp is not special, and can easily be substituted for what's available in the Helix. Besides, when you run a digital processor with an amp using 4-cable method, you are effectively losing fidelity, when you convert digital to analog, then analog to digital, then again digital to analog. There's an additional conversion step where you are no longer benefiting from using a tube amp, as you would have been in the olden days :) Run your Helix -> clean power amp -> speaker cab for stage volume/air movement. the end. I tour regularly, and play a BMG guitar, as you can see. lol

If your amp doesn’t have a send and a return, you cannot do 4 cable method. https://blog.andertons.co.uk/learn/what-is-4-cable-method If you are using the 4 cable method, you are adding effects to the preamp signal of your amp, and sending it to the power amp. Your blocks should be in this order. Guitar, wah, distortion, send1 block -> physical amp’s input, physical amp’s send jack -> return1, harmonizer, reverb/delay -> finally into your physical amp’s return jack. So in your setup, put harmonizer after your send / return blocks, not before.

When I use any harmonizer, I put it after the amp/cab: at the end of the chain. If you run the harmonizer into the amp, it will result in sounding like you are plying double stops—it’ll be distorted. Take a look at my video about the placement of the harmonizer:

I have had certain heavy presets crash HX Edit on my Mac, and it made Helix unresponsive a few times in the past. I had to reboot the Helix to get it to work again. But this was when I had my Helix connected to the computer, which is not how I play live... Maybe you're having issues with one specific preset? What happens if you don't connect the Helix to your computer?

Back up Helix. Do Factory Reset. Try if it works. Restore from backup

LT is compatible with Helix Floor. Not necessarily the other way around. Floor has some features that LT does not have, such as: 1) mic jack, 2)10-stomp mode 3) extra effects loops. So you may create a preset that uses Floor features that do not exist on the LT, as a result they will not work on the LT. However, any preset created on the LT can work on the Floor.

No, they are not reusable. You will need to recreate the patch from scratch one block at a time. Pod GO / Helix have the same blocks though. The only other thing, for some reason I needed to set my gain higher on the Pod GO as opposed to on the Helix.... same exact distortion block, but on the Pod GO, I was having less gain... weird....

Do not use the toe-down feature. It is not thought-through. I tried it briefly when 3.15 came out, then quickly downgraded to 3.11 and have been on it ever since. There is a bug that is still not fixed according to what people have posted--when you modify one preset's bypass behavior, it applies to unrelated presets. No-good! Simply use the bypass by percentage. If you want the wah to be off in a snapshot, simply take the "mix" parameter, assign it to snapshots, and set it to 0% in the snapshot you want the wah to be off.

Dim/Bright setting is as follows: 1. you set up your snapshot buttons to an explicit color, e.g. red, blue, white as opposed to "Auto Color". 2. In global settings / Display, you select "Dim/Bright" 3. when you are not in that specific snapshot, you will see the outline of the ring color, dimmed. Like it'll be dark-red as opposed to bright red. Or dark-blue, or dark-yellow. To disable that behavior: 4. In global settings / Display, you select "Off/Bright" 5. Your rings will turn off when you are not in that specific snapshot. This feature is there so you can better see where your buttons are. To me it's more confusing as I can confuse a dimmed color with the "engaged" color when I'm playing onstage. This does not affect the display brightness, that is fixed. see my video:

I bought the new system, and here's my review. If anybody's interested.

Simply click the pedal in, to select 1/2 and save it for the snapshot. Cafes with live music? There are too many options to name. For jazz or rock? For jazz, there's the Blue Note. For rock, lots of stuff in Williamsburg for example.

Do you see new cabs on the Helix itself, like if you try to add a block on the physical Helix and go to the cabs location ? If you do but do not see them in HX edit on the computer, your Hx edit version is old. There’s a pinned post about it in the forum.

Yay! Now I can replace David Gilmour in Pink Floyd! Sounds cool, fascinating to look at when the speakers are spinning in the actual physical unit, but to me sounds like a regular Leslie, ok maybe 2 Leslies at slightly different speeds, ok maybe 3.

Objectively speaking, Helix has all the features already. Lots of amps/cabs. No need to have every single esoteric thing, that's too much. This introduces option paralysis, too many things to choose from. And to me, it's extremely frustrating that such a simple bug as the left/mono one is yet to be addressed. So I'll continue using 3.11 that works for me. I built all my presets as of 3.0 and they are still using 3.0 features. The rest is absolutely useless to me. There's nothing that Helix lacks as far as I'm concerned, all the sounds imaginable are there. So what's next? I have no clue. Fix the bugs, Line 6! :P

oh wow... more amps/cabs/effects... why not just fix all the outstanding bugs? 1. left/mono not being mono 2. bypass behavior chaos that still exists in 3.5

No! No such thing. It'll keep oscillating at a constant speed, unless you use some trickery with the expression pedal to change the rate.

Btw. You can take any block including distortion, wah and volume, remove all the assignments and re-assign expression pedal 2 to control any parameter. Or expression 1. It’s just that the default settings are to have 1 control wah and 2 control volume. I personally never switch between exp 1/2 and always use exp 2 because that’s what the external pedal defaults to. And if my pedal dies, I can have all my sounds work with the external pedal. if you want to use the wah but not volume, you can simply bypass the volume pedal block in a specific snapshot or assign it to a stomp button where one is on and the other is off and vice versa or you can use snapshots: in your snapshot, you can save which exp is selected: 1 or 2. So you switch your snapshot and your you now control expression 1. Switch to a different one and it’s expression 2. The switch will happen without you pressing on the toe switch.

You can definitely assign both to the same footswitch in pedal mode: one is on while the other one is off. No custom labels exist though.

Ok so it’s a hardware issue. Go and tighten the pedal with the supplied hex key. If it’s too loose, tighten it.

That, my friend is an indication that your micro-switches need to be cleaned. My Floor was fine, then it stopped liking flip-flops. And then the foot switches stopped working reliably. Got them cleaned, and it like flip-flops again. I think for me, besides what everybody speculates is that the foam inside the Helix disintegrates and small crumbs of it get inside the switch. It was also not helpful that I played in a band where I was constantly switching sounds: like 30 times in one song. So practicing alone was putting a lot of stress on my 2 buttons that were used the most often. But then again, the Helix was only 2 years old for me and it was not used that much, because I have another Helix LT that I use as my practicing board, the Floor was for gigs and dress rehearsals. So there...

Or why not use a physical volume pedal, or one of these? https://reverb.com/p/classic-audio-effects-passive-volume-roller-g2