theElevators

really?

in 3.15 it will come back. in 3.5 though, maybbbbe they fixed this bug. Let us know. I'm sticking to 3.11. No need for me to update the firmware as I don't use IRs, and don't need change a single thing in my presets.

No way to do that, you'll need to add things manually to each preset. I also don't recommend copy/pasting blocks between presets -- sometimes I get weird bypass behavior for these copied blocks when I use snapshots.

This is cool.. but I'll wait for bugs to surface... Ain't broke, don't fix! 3.11 is the most stable version that has everything I need :P

Yes, you can use other inputs, e.g. return 1, return 2. So, you can have that in your chain in the beginning. There's a guitarist, whose name I forget, but he wired his guitar in stereo: neck goes to return 1, bridge goes to guitar in. In his snapshots, he switches between neck and bridge.

My advice is to use the output block's level as the last resort to level your presets. Instead of that, simply try cranking the amp, delay level, etc. Because there's a weird issue where if you switch between presets with different output levels, there's a clicking noise. Same applies to snapshots if you change that in between snapshots, there'll be an audible pop -- the bigger the discrepancy, the louder the pop. Same applies to changing your impedance settings between the presets -- same weird glitchy pop. 20 db boost is pretty much impractical and unrealistic. So you can argue whether it's a bug or not, or just accept it as that's how it is. Helix has a lot of weird quirks and inconsistencies, that you need to just learn to overcome. From experience, pick your virtual rig, and use the same distortion, amp, etc in all your presets you are planning to use at the same gig, or risk weird noises and other sound guy nightmare scenarios where some presets are way too loud/soft. Another advice regarding building your preset (courtesy of S. Sterlacci) is to have your actual presets as loud and never louder than a blank preset. That sounds the most musical, no clipping, no weird digital idiosyncrasies.

it's not distortion in the sense of having a boss DS-1... it's just your signal is very very hot and it's clipping...

you're in a pedal board view....

There are so many parameters on the Helix: global settings, preset options, that I recommend starting with a clean slate when things don't make sense.... Rather than figuring out what went wrong, it's faster to recreate the preset from scratch. There's a weird bug for example, that if you copy a block from another preset, the snapshot behavior of that block is completely random and predictable: it's on, it's off, and you can't save its state correctly. So just delete and recreate it from scratch -- no issues. That's my approach to life in general, when things don't make sense, start from square 1.

Well, if you want to hear yourself on stage, then my recommendation is to use use the 1/4" out and connect it to the power amp, or even input of the amp. I use Fender Twin reverb amps reliably as my monitor mix and there is no effects loop on them. They are very clean and neutral. If you want to be fancy, you can use a send block and run it into the "return" of your amp... that way you are not sending any cab sim sounds to it. (Cab sim basically muffles your sound a little bit). Then in your chain you can add the cab sim/IR AFTER your send block, so that the FOH mix would get everything properly. So basically, here's your chain: guitar -> distortion -> amp -> send1 -> cabinet/IR Helix also allows you to send different stuff to 1/4" out and XLR, so you can split your signal and place outputs at various places in your path..... e.g. 1/4" will be right before the cabinet/IR. That way you can control the volume of your 1/4" output. It's nice to be able to turn yourself up/down with the volume knob, otherwise you are stuck with only one loudness volume. IMO it's not worth it, all this send block business... On stage all I personally need is to just hear myself, and if I tweak the knobs I can always get the sound that I want without removing the amp/cab simulator. I always just run the same exact FOH mix to whatever is on stage, preferably a single 1x12" amp/cab, or 2x12" amp/cab. For some reason Marshall cabs completely destroy my sound and make it too muffled so I need to use some EQ / Global EQ, something about the 4x12" configuration always sounds awful....

Here's an anecdote: 3-4 years ago I was asked to play a solo during somebody's set, some blues shuffle. That person only had an acoustic guitar, an inexpensive Martin. He also had a Keeley-moded DS-1. We didn't have any time for a sound check, I just went on stage, plugged in, ran the acoustic into the distortion and out into a DI-box. I took the DS-1's tone knob and turned it down so it was not harsh, but bluesy and tube'y sounding. I spent about 10 seconds adjusting my sound, so that it sounded passable. Long story short, that performance blew people's minds, and several people years later still say "wow, that was the best guitar tone I've ever heard" and "I've never heard an acoustic guitar sound that good!". I had no clue it was that amazing... I thought they were pulling my leg. So there you go, an acoustic guitar, a DS-1 and no guitar amp sounded apparently phenomenal. Just a happy accident.

1. I'm sure you can even get clever and approximate an amp block with a compressor, EQ block and an IR... 2. You can buy Joyo American Sound, or any other Joyo amp pedal, and run it in the loop -- it sounds great, only around $45... https://www.amazon.com/JOYO-American-Guitar-Overdrive-Effect/dp/B08NB9L73M/ https://youtu.be/S-JHefdx_is If somebody hacked an HX Effects, it would be possible to add an amp. It's like a GPS device can be hacked and turned into a touch screen computer running Windows mobile... The capability is there, but hidden from the user, so that each device performs its designated function, and nothing more. BTW, did you know that most of the early Motown guitar and bass tracks were recorded without a guitar/bass amp? Everything was recorded straight into the mixer.

check if the input signal is the same on both Helix and HD. Most likely on the HD you have some kind of an input pad, but on the Helix the signal is hotter and the finger noise gets amplified. Check the same for output as well. I'm assuming you did not change the global eq... otherwise that could also be causing this discrepancy.

ummm. the washers do not actually touch or put force on the ring... the button + the metal shaft. rather on the metal parts... it just makes it slightly more difficult to engage the button... Works for me.

I use a preset-per-song approach. Throughout the gig I go through 24 presets, as I play exactly 24 songs. I order my songs in the order of the set list. I use snapshots. Every single preset has a "stomp" view that has all of the snapshots in the same place, except there are no up/down buttons. Most of the presets do not use every single snapshot button -- there are about 2-3 different sounds in each song.... sometimes only 1 sound throughout. If I have 2 sounds: rhythm and lead in my preset, then I will have 7 "rhythm" snapshots and one "lead" snapshot in position #4. I avoid the buttons that are closest to the up/down buttons unless I ABSOLUTELY have to use 7 or 8 sounds in my preset. Normally these buttons activate my basic rhythm sounds, and are simply redundant. I play shows with a lot of stage movement, jumping, etc, and I don't have time to carefully select where I press, so the more redundancy, the better! Every once in a while, I need to use all 8 snapshot buttons (in only 2 presets). For those cases live, I press the "mode" button to disable the up/down buttons. That way I don't need to worry about accidentally switching my presets. Also, I don't need to worry about accidentally pressing the "mode" button and going into a blank pedal board view -- both views are exactly the same. So even if I accidentally press "Mode", I'm still in the same exact view (minus the up/down buttons). BTW, in addition to everything mentioned, placing 2 Grolsch beer bottle washers on specific buttons makes them harder to press (accidentally).

You need to open the ticket if you haven't already done so. The more tickets mentioning this, the higher the chance that this will be fixed... in Helix X....lol

My hack!

Well I did the test -- played this audio ^^^ and as expected the right side was silent. Don't count on Line 6 fixing this... ever!!! They'll tell you: "eeeerrrrr I don't hear it on my Helix duuuuuuurrrrr" and "it's clearly a hardware problem, why don't you waste 300 USD and send it to us duuuhhhhh ..." or "please back up / reset / restore and check" lmfao Re-read what I posted as my lifehacks / workarounds. 1) have a sound check preset 2) verify that nobody rebooted your Helix by selecting a specific snapshot of your first preset, something that is different than the default snapshot. If somebody rebooted your Helix, the selected snapshot will be different and you'll know. It's a stupid bug, it's annoying, but I've played many shows since the initial discovery using my plug/unplug workaround -- it is what it is.

Helix has 2 sets of blocks: stereo and mono. For example, you can have a stereo cab block, and the same identical block can be mono. Make sure that your stereo blocks are followed by other stereo blocks. Otherwise, a mono block will effectively convert your signal to mono. Make sure you don't have some kind of a mono reverb sound at the end of your chain...

I don't need any more features... fixing a few important (to me) bugs would be nice. Until then, I'm happy on version 3.11... I downgraded from 3.15. They're probably working on that quad-core Helix X lol :) maybe they'll have normal foot switches, the ones that last more than 2 years...

"the Marshalls seem to be broken". lol Honestly, I don't understand, why you want to get another Helix. It's your presets that sound really harsh and gainy, to the point of being unusable. If something sounds good in Native, that means that your audio interface does something to your guitar input to compensate for the harshness. If you have completely different results between the Native and physical Helix, then you know that there is something different regarding your input. Nothing is broken as far as I can tell, it's your preset that sounds very bad. .... but I guess get a new Helix....

Downloaded your preset. It sounds extremely loud, extremely bright. I would never be able to "gig" with it. It's not the Helix, it's your preset. Your Helix can sound horrible if you overload the signal. A rule of thumb should be that your blank preset "new preset" should be about as loud as your preset you are working on. I recommend using a factory preset and tweaking it to get started.

First, check and see if you are not missing an amp cab block in your chain! An amp by itself without the cab can sound horrible. I use an amp+cab block always personally. then... Start with dialing down your gain in general. Modellers make you feel like you don't have enough gain, because you are playing and the sound is coming out of an FRFR, mixing monitors, or headphones. When you don't move enough air, you feel like your sound is too weak subconsciously. When you play through a physical amp cabinet, you may find that there is plenty of gain, and maybe even too much of it. I tried to dial in a good chug metal tone. It was just not working for me. Until I took the gain and lowered it significantly. All of a sudden, the chug came back, and it started feeling more familiar, not like I was playing a sound, and the sound was processed and played out of a speaker. It was more immediate, more familiar.... Input impedance is pretty important as well, but I personally use the auto impedance setting. In my signal chain, the first pedal is either the volume pedal or wah, and they both have the same virtual impedance. I tried changing that to 1M ohm, and did not like the result -- some notes had weird resonance and were sticking out. Here's my little experiment video, if you're interested. https://youtu.be/xSrgfEhLmSQ

If you are sending both channels: left and right, then when combined, they will be hotter, and may drive amps more than if you only send one side.... At least that's how it works in the real world.

If you are talking about a Strat, g-string on the 12th fret dying, this is most likely due to the neck pickup's "vintage" pole piece heights. That was done to compensate for g-strings in the 1950's not being loud enough compared to the other strings. In short, the g-string used to be wound, and now it's solid. When USA strats are sold, the pickups are for some unknown reason following this vintage pole piece height specs. In reality, there is no need to boost the signal from the g-string, as it is now loud enough because most string sets do not have a wound g-string, it's a solid g-string. As a result, most of these USA strats suffer from "choking" of the g-string on 12th fret -- very little sustain. So you have 3 options: 1) embrace it as a cool "instant SRV" hack. or 2) move the pole piece down .. or 3) use vintage-spec strings.