theElevators

maybe you have a gate on the input that mutes your sound?

As for the phase invert.... there isn't a direct switch for it, but when using a parallel path the merge block allows you to flip the "b" polarity.I don't know how the LR Baggs implements it... but if it's just a phase reversal on the output (common) you could try this... In your chain, drop one effect to the B path In the split block, change it from a Y to a Split A/B and route ONLY to the B side In the merge block Set your A level to it's lowest setting possible. this is just a precaution to make sure no signal is bypassing the B path Now you can invert your entire signal by changing the "B Polarity" as required. source ( )

A word of caution with the momentary switching, there are bugs that keep coming back. Essentially the button can get inverted. It came back in the last firmware update 3.50: "Helix Floor/Rack only—While in 10 Stomp footswitch mode, the momentary state of FS1 or FS7 can sometimes become reversed ". I have had this happen when I wore socks, the buttons were getting flipped on 2.8. The expression pedal would also very rarely get flipped. If you do this one simple step, this will not happen. How to not have it get flipped: 1. remove snapshot bypass assignment from the effect(s) 2. assign a control, such as an expression pedal, or a button in pedalboard mode. Additionally in 3.15 they introduced a new way to control the effects with the expression pedal, there is a new "behavior" setting "Heel Down" or "Toe Down". I personally experienced a bug where HX Edit on a Mac: you make changes on one preset, and other presets get affected. There was no word of this getting fixed, so at least, check all your presets are working correctly, as you should whenever you experiment with stuff... It's a good practice to always run through your entire set of presets before an important show, etc. So there you go some info for ya. I personally use snapshots exclusively. I also have my pedalboard view mirror my snapshots... for all the effects that I want to momentarily engage, I use the expression pedal -- it's a lot easier to do. For example I have a song where I have clean sound, and play fills with distortion. I engage the distortion sound with the expression pedal > 5%.

If the pedal is moving fine mechanically, and is not crooked, then the issue must be with the optical sensors... It's like this: LED -> triangular opening that enlarges as you move the pedal from heel to the toe position -> sensor that interprets the light. I'm not really technical, but that's essentially how the optical expression pedal works. So if it never goes to 0%, then you can take apart the pedal and put a little piece of electrical tape to make the triangular opening smaller. That way you have more room for it to be at 0 %. Maybe in your case, something got deformed due to humidity. Watch this basically. Good luck.

I keep using my 17+ old Clavia Nord Electro 2 as an example. I have seen what's inside, and it's tiny components, switches, etc. Everything to this day works flawlessly, every key, button and LED. I also know people who play a Kurzweil workstation from 20+ years ago--still works. Regarding optical expression pedals, same thing. I have had a Bad Horsie for 12 years without a single issue.

You can also get an external pedal and use that in the interim. For example, I built all my presets to only use EXP 2 and never EXP 1. I can always make all my presets work seamlessly with the external EXP, and I never use the toe switch. Line 6 gear is built with cheap Chinese POS parts. 1600 USD piece of equipment should not break after a year or 2 years, but it does. I know people who used Pod HD 500 for like 10 years live with no issues, touring musicians. But, anyway, cheap Chinese crap that can always fail when you least expect it, means you need to have a backup... or at the very least build your rig "modular"-ly....one thing fails, you can always reconfigure your presets, etc. I was actually surprised that Kemper is also following suit with the cost cutting approach... take a look at the same flimsy laughable microswitches. Everybody is now doing this.

Thanks, but I'm in NYC :) Good news, Line 6 responded that they would fix the light for me, and that's what I will do as I cannot afford any more stripped screws, and other shenanigans. Will do that once I'm done with the touring, because it's cutting it way too short.

One thing about Headrush, is they are so light! I always have one with me in my trunk. It's great for small jams or even rehearsals. A side note about my experience with FRFR's, is they have this very weird projection of sound. It can be loud if you are directly in front of them, and then you would not hear anything if you step away. Just like your typical wedge monitor. I still stand by my choice of amplification--a 12" speaker cab + a portable power amp. My own compact rig is Mooer Baby Bomb + Orange 112. Or using Fender Twin Reverb works equally well. You get a realistic "amp on stage" sound and feel that an FRFR will never give you IMHO. With the Twin Reverb, I've used it as a keyboard monitor, or acoustic violin monitor/amp for decades. It can do anything, including being a monitor.

So, I've yet to experience the second-to-none customer service all the fanboys are raving about! All kidding aside, I opened a ticket with Line 6 after calling them on the phone with all the info as I was instructed. Today had a follow up call assuring me I'd receive an answer today 2 weeks and 1 day later. Maybe it's the Xmas season.... IDK. But I'm starting to get more and more annoyed with everything hardware/service related. I actually gave up on the L/Mono bug... priorities...

Also why use a Helix at all… Helix has IRs etc. The whole point of using a processor IMO is to not lug all the heavy stuff around, not to Uber complicate the setup. I highly recommend using what’s in the Helix instead, I guarantee it’s great.

Yes I have had the Helix freeze as well where I had no choice but restart it, but only while connected to the computer and with HX Edit. No crashes live yet.

This sucks. That’s why I’m on 3.11. This auto bypass bug is a mess. The bug for me was actually from HX edit on a Mac—making a change to one preset messes up other presets with their bypass settings. So try restoring from the backup—it should work ok. Or downgrade to 3.11. Line 6 software has great features, but terrible QA. So I never use the latest firmware, unless I run it through its paces for a month or so.

https://youtu.be/EvcqULKNKgE

I found that some delays still don't spill over. I think because the feedback is 0%, it doesn't spill over.... Like if I need a single repeat on the left, then a repeat on the right, if the feedback is at 0%, it does not spill over.

I own an LT that I bought used -- after 3.5 years of heavy use, no issues whatsoever, except some buttons stopped being as reliable as before, but still completely usable. Also the plastic ring around the LED cracked into 2 pieces, not an issue at all just cosmetic if at all-- fixed it with plastic glue. Also cleaned out all the micro switches myself and now it has 0 issues. The Floor is another story. I bought the special edition Space Gray Helix Floor (maybe the special edition was the problem). I bought it to use at shows and dress rehearsals only. After a year and a half of very very very light use (about 12 shows in total), the Helix developed: Crooked expression pedal --the claw screws inside were not tightened properly, so the pedal started grinding against the side. The fix was very simple, but still. 2 footswitches stopped being reliable. Much worse than what the LT had. 1/2 LED on one of the buttons stopped working. So the Floor was a lemon, the LT was fine. Like I said, I feel that the "special edition Space Gray" had something to do with the lower quality. Maybe you don't switch your sounds as much as I do, I don't know. My set has fairly frequent sound changes throughout the songs. But this is unacceptable. I repeat, I barely barely used the Floor, and it developed so many issue in such a short amount of time. Plus, read my other posts about the horrendous service centers that break your things. Some things are easy to fix, like cleaning the switches, greasing the pedal, the little stuff... other things like re-soldering microswitches or god forbid LEDs is impossible unless you have the necessary equipment. Plus you always read all these posts here about things like: Helix not booting no sound blank screens Imagine you are playing in Madison Square Garden. Would you rely on this thing to be your only piece of equipment with no backup? I sure wouldn't.

links? sounds cool!

I have been using https://www.shure.com/en-US/products/wireless-systems/glx-d_digital_wireless/glxd16-guitar-pedal-set I always run wireless, unless I'm recording something to avoid any degradation of signal. This system is discontinued, but you can still find it on eBay. It's pretty great for most applications, unless you plan on doing the Angus Young thing where he runs into the audience 1/2 mile away from the amps. There are certain frequency ranges, some of them have greater latency, but offer more reliability. Corey Wong used this when he played at MSG, so good enough for him, good enough for my small/medium sized club gigs. Anyway.... I bought a 2nd wireless transmitter for the Shure wireless. By the way, for each transmitter, you can set a separate gain level, including negative gain. So that's very convenient if you have a lower or higher output guitar you want to use as a backup. Both transmitters can be paired to the same receiver. So if you need to swap guitars, turn off one transmitter, turn on another one. Leave the transmitters in each guitar. Neotech makes great holders for your wireless systems. That's it.

If you want to get a Helix again, the LT is really cheap nowadays, IMO the Floor doesn't really offer you anything worth spending an additional $600 dollars over. Check eBay, the LT goes for like $900 open box. All modern processors IMO are equally capable of creating great sounds. To me, I wish I had researched this before, the Helix suffers from low quality hardware in a big way. Just now, I did a quick Google search and did not found a single hit for "foot switch intermittent failure" or "LED failure" on anything made by Fractal, or Headrush, or Boss. Now do the same for the Line 6 stuff. Other pieces of gear have a complete foot switch you can swap out, for example this. The Helix has micro-switches. So if you want reliability and ruggedness on the road, the Helix is not it. This is how normal pieces of gear are assembled: FS failed? Open it up, unscrew the old one, put in the new one, plug it into the plug of the PCB. Imagine that.

I contacted Line 6 over the phone, and wrote down all the info regarding the 2 service centers with receipts in a Service ticket they opened for me. Let's see how Line 6 will address this. I have a European / Canadian tour in Jan/Feb so will have to make do with 1/2 LED working. I'm really glad I have 2 Helixes, if I only had one, then I'd been really screwed with these service centers, etc. I'll take 2 Helixes with me on the road, can't afford to have any more funny stuff happen in the middle of Europe.... At this point I have invested so much time into building my presets on the Helix, that doing all of this work all over again on a new piece of gear is out of the question. That means I'm stuck with the Helix tech for the foreseeable future. When the new version of the processor comes out, the price falls, I'll probably get myself like 3 spare Helixes lol. Pod HD 500X go for like 250 bucks mint on eBay, so hopefully the same will apply to the Helix.

I've played in power-trios for many years. To fill up the sonic space you can use the freeze functionality -- it's great. Many times you can do these "pads" while you solo. Then you have harmonizer -- also a cool effect to use sparingly, octaver as well. Then a nice delay can fill up the sonic space, stuff like U2--it's all one guitar. As for the thickness of sound, you have the ADT simulation, it always makes your sound bigger and more stereophonic. Plus now it's easy to have dual cabs, so you can have a big stereo sound. For me, I often just use stereo ping-pong delay in parallel, not timed to the tempo of the song. That just makes you sound bigger. I also play a lot with contrasting sounds: very wet, vs. completely dry. These sudden changes make your songs really interesting and diverse in sound.

My point is that if you're an authorized shop, you need to know what you are doing. If you take on a repair job, then you complete it. Instead of that, the guy opened it up, said "f this", and then stripped all the screws, didn't put the lid back on properly and said "I think we'll pass". This is unacceptable. This applies to other things, like cars. I have a Ford and ever since the beginning my car was constantly treated like a piece of junk, even when it was a few months old. Just a general lack of care, responsibility.

Picked up the Helix. He stripped every single screw, and half-screwed things in. THIS IS A CERTIFIED LINE 6 REPAIR SHOP!!!! Now I need to get new screws because he made all of them unusable. But hey! it was free expert diagnostic free of charge! lol

That is absolutely fine to say "we don't do this" or "no thanks". You don't instead agree to work on something, then after 4 days realize it's "PITA".

Sorry for a bit of a rant. I'm kind-of losing my sh lately. Had to clean my microswitches, but got 1/2 LED broken as a bonus. Long story short: I checked 10 repair shops in my area. 3 of those have decent ratings. Shop 1: Cleaned out the microswitches, but broke the LED. Then refused to take any responsibility from breaking the other thing "It was probably on its way out". Unlikely but possible, I guess. Brought it to Shop 2. Shop 2: Is extremely non-enthusiastic about fixing the LED. Despite confirming that I'd bring it in, despite explaining the problem.... to a point of probably telling me tomorrow that he is not going to fix it. "meeeeehhh, it's too much of a pain, I don't want to get involved". That's a certified Line 6 repair shop worker telling me this on the phone. "I mean, I'll take a look and let you know, but I am leaning towards not getting involved in this". So my question is: what the heck is this??? These are all "certified" Line 6 repair shops. Is this some kind of a sick joke? First of all the Helix is built with components that you'll find in Chinese Xmas lights.... Then you can't find anybody to fix it. Where can I find a place to fix my 1600-USD piece of gear without getting things broken/unneeded attitudes. Should have bought a Kemper, I'm sure I'd not been getting this much idiocy. ty

When I opened up my Helix after a couple years, also no fur inside. I have a cat, and cover the Helix with a blanket though. It's a good practice to cover your gear, otherwise dust will find its way inside and gunk up the already crappy microswitches.