theElevators

Download the Pod Go edit version that matches your firmware version on the POD Go. You will see what version that is when you boot it. Go to this website, select Pod Go as hardware, Pod Go Edit as software, and your OS. https://line6.com/software/index.html Sometimes Pod Go Edit crashes. But for me, that doesn't happen consistently, only very rarely. If you've downloaded the right software and it still crashes, then back up your Pod Go on another computer, if you can. Last resort is to perform a factory reset, but you will unfortunately lose your personal presets/settings in the process.

That's the danger of not being able to lock your settings. I managed to change the tuner calibration to 436 instead of 440, and didn't even realize it for a few months. When in doubt, click on all the knobs--that will restore the values to the defaults.

That knob often goes first. Try doing a factory reset first, to see if it comes back to life. Otherwise, open up a support ticket. My friend's preset knob doesn't click in anymore, for example. These encoders/ buttons are very cheap. Otherwise, just live with it, and use a computer to select the right set list, and use preset up/down buttons to select the preset you need. You can also reorder presets on the computer as well.

There’s at least one more firmware update coming. As per the Line 6 chief architect interview.

make sure that you have assigned the proper values to EXP 1. It depends on your preset -- the expression 1 or 2 pedal can only do stuff if that particular parameter is assigned to it. I use the Expression pedal 1 to control the Delay block feedback for example. Go and double check in Pod Go edit that: 1. you right click on the wah parameter, or any other parameter of any block you need it to control. 2. it is assigned to "EXP 1" If it's not assigned to anything, then moving the pedal won't do anything. By default, when you drag in your wah pedal, it has assignments created for you, so maybe clear the block and re-add a wah pedal. If it doesn't work, then the expression pedal died, I'm afraid.

had the same issue on 2 Helixes. Removed the big knob with my fingers, took a wrench and tightened the nut. Then put nail polish over the nut -- what should have been done at the factory -- Loctite or some other material. Nuts always get loose, so nail polish has been my method for several decades.

The cable that combines both left and right will make the output signal hotter. I tested this and saw much more distortion in my sound when doing the doubling.

There's simply a bug with restoring from a backup, as I mentioned above. It does not update certain parameters in global settings.

Check output level: "line" or "instrument" in global settings. Just go through all of them and compare. I noticed that when you back up/restore from the pod go, these output levels do not get set correctly. For example the setting whether the volume know controls amp/mains/or both outputs does not get set correctly when restoring from a backup.

My friend tried to record from the Helix into Cubase, and for him too the signal was very low.

In my experience on the Helix, it's not a good idea to control parameter values with both snapshots and expression pedal/switches. Sometimes this happens, what you are describing.

only if you have a preset that has very high output level, it could be the clipping sound that you hear. Dial down the loudness of everything, that should help.

I think it's just voodoo stuff.... with analog pedals. I got rid of all my pedals after switching over to Line 6. I just have the Shure wireless, then Helix/Pod Go. But if you are looking for something to tweak, here's a story. My tone was just sterile on the Helix, and I couldn't figure out what was wrong. I decided to try to tweak things one component at a time... And then I increased the gain parameter of my Mail Order Twin by exactly 1%--and that all of a sudden fixed it for me. The sustain was there all of a sudden, just came to life. I am running my amp very clean, but with very very slight grit. That 1% gain increase just did some magic number for me. There you go!

Sometimes you can have a ground hum. I've experienced it in several venues / outdoor festivals. You are doing exactly what you typically do, but there's this ground hum coming out of your processor's direct out, as well as the amp. The only reliable remedy is to connect your processor/speaker cab to different power sources. Also try the "ground lift" on both devices before doing this. With me, several times ground lift did absolutely nothing, and I literally had to get an extension cable from the other power source, nothing else helped. Try your setup at another place/apartment, to see for yourself...

I came to the Pod Go from the Helix. When I play gigs, I always send direct signal (left and right) to FOH, while I monitor myself through an amp on stage, running the signal into the Return jack. On the Helix, I used XLRs to to send the signal to FOH. To answer your question: On the Pod Go, I run the balanced outs with an XLR adapters you can find for cheap to the FOH. The amp out is the same exact thing for me as what's sent to FOH, automatically combined into mono, and running out of a clean guitar amp's return circuit, just to hear myself on stage. I know that you can disable the amp simulation for the "amp out", but I leave mine on. I have various effects before/after the virtual amp/cab, so if I disable amp simulation, it's going to sound unusable. If I play a gig and the amp onstage doesn't have an effects loop, I simply run it as clean as possible and use the regular input. Since the amp onstage isn't mik'ed, it really doesn't matter. An amp like Fender Deluxe works great for monitoring IMO. And BTW, I highly recommend Mooer Baby Bomb as a highly-portable power amp. I toured Europe with it, just using a Fender Deluxe as a glorified speaker cabinet for it. Lastly, the volume knob only controls the signal loudness of "amp out", but not the main left/right. That's how professionals do this. Take it from me :) My YouTube channel has a bunch of resources on all such topics, btw. https://www.youtube.com/@accidentals_hacks

Touch a button, don't press it, just touch it with your fingers for a few seconds. You will see a menu pop up. That's what you are briefly seeing.

I use LA comp.

Check your headphones... do they have a microphone? If so, that could be the explanation.

It needs that multitap delay for the sound. 4 stereo delays. A clean amp, spring reverb, and this delay. Here's me doing it on the Helix. But I'm sure Pod HD has the same ingredients.

1. add a compressor in the beginning of the chain, but after distortion if applicable and/or 2. add delay with significant feedback. I personally almost never suffer from lack of sustain. But I always have a distortion pedal in my chain, even for cleans--I cut the initial signal either turning down the guitar volume knob or using a fixed volume pedal. This gives me compression, because a distortion pedal always compresses.

There are also acoustic guitar IRs, reverb IRs as well. But yes, most commonly an IR is a replacement for the mic'ed cab sound.

Is your pedal too loose? Or does the pedal not move itself, while it gets un-calibrated? My Helix LT used to do this where it sometimes would not go past 99%, then 98%. But rebooting it would fix the issue.

try delay with high percentage feedback at the end of your chain.

That's not normal... Is the adapter a replacement, just curious?

I run stereo ping-pong delay in parallel. You play a note, hear it on both sides evenly... then left repeat, then right repeat, left repeat, right repeat. That way it's stereophonic, and doesn't favor one side.