theElevators

There's already this video. For Helix LT, it's very similar. I was able to get to the PCB board easily without any glue removal. Just make sure your buttons/spring mechanisms don't fly out when you remove the screws. Do it on a table, and keep track of all the screws where they go.

There are a lot of reverbs that can give you a close approximation of that sound. Try the "Octo" Reverb, it gives it a nice strings-like texture. If you turn up the "mix" parameter, you get very synth-like tones, the only problem is the delayed response. So if you play before the beat, you can make it work. You can get close to synths by adding a Tron Up (envelope filter) int the beginning of the chain as well. The Synths that were recently added to the Helix are not really usable to me.

Hey gang. This morning I cleaned out my footswitches, and made a little video. It's a very easy procedure, a lot easier than what's involved on the Helix.

Made a video this morning btw. The footswitch was driving me nuts, so I had to clean it. I just hate it when you are about to play a show, and your buttons are working 85% of the time.

To give you yet another example about these garbage switches... I have a Pod GO in addition to 2 Helixes. I decided to deliberately use a Pod GO for my next gig. So, created 14 presets, and I'm using snapshots. I have not yet played a single gig with it yet, so I'm just practicing at home. During the practicing, I'm switching my sounds, not every second, but maybe 5-6 times during each song. Yesterday I noticed one of the buttons stopped engaging properly. You click the button, no change happens, until you push it all the way down. I pressed the button a bunch of times, pressed it in and turned it, and it started working properly. So there you go. Not a single gig yet, and the buttons are already not working properly.

If there's warranty, then go for it and buy it. Otherwise, all these Line 6 products have very questionable build quality. The buttons/micro-switches start misbehaving after a year of regular use. Lots of Line 6 fanboys will say "I've had my Helix since 2015, and 0 issues". But in reality, I own 2 Helixes and the buttons always start going bad after about a year of regular sensible use.

Assign the mix parameter to snapshots. Want the wah to be off? Set the mix at 0%.

If you are talking about having an amplifier block for example and changing one parameter between snapshots.... You can simply add the block to the preset. Set all the parameter values as you need. Then in HX Edit right-click on the parameter "Gain" and assign it to "snapshots". That way you get square brackets, like [Gain]. Then you can go into individual snapshots, change the Gain amount to 10, 11, 12 and save it like that in different snapshots. If you realize that you want the value of Gain to be the same in all snapshots, then again right-click on the [Gain] parameter, assign it to "None". Then the square brackets will disappear and it will say "Gain" (not no square brackets). Now you can set the value of Gain to whatever you want. Once you save it, then all snapshots will have the same value. Want to change the Gain in one specific snapshot? Then repeat the process of assigning gain to "snapshots", go into a specific snapshot, and change the value. I use this trick sometimes if I realize that in most snapshots the value should be changed, I remove the "snapshot" assignment.

Also sounds like the global eq changed.

Any changes to your global settings? Like output levels for your 1/4” for example?

If the nut is loosening by itself, you can always put plumbers tape on the screw to prevent it from slipping.

Yes. You can set Expression 1 or 2 to have their position be "global" or not. For my needs I set the expression pedals to be set per preset. So even if the expression pedal is at 100% physically, when I switch to another preset where it's saved at 0%, the expression pedal will show at 0% until I start moving it. You just need to re-save your presets to make sure that the position is as you need it. Just double-check every preset in question, and move the pedal up down so HX Edit registers a change, then save it.

I built all my presets to use only EXP 2 btw. That way if the onboard pedal dies, an external pedal can work with all the presets seamlessly. So that's a good idea to keep an external pedal as a backup for those situations: you simply connect the expression pedal and it will always work as EX 2, so no need to modify your presets. But from what you describe, this is a simple case of the nut being loosened to the max. I've had the same exact thing happen to me, so most likely you have the same problem. The expression pedal mechanism is very simple. You keep the pressure of how tight it is with the nut/bolt. The washers are your friction points. If there is not enough lubrication, the washers will get caught and start loosening the main screw as you use it. Simple lithium grease lasts forever on those washers. After doing this simple procedure, as I explained above, I put my Helix through many hours of use onstage, and the screw needs slight tightening maybe once a year or less. And my Helix was brand-new when it started exhibiting these issues.

Or get a wireless system that also has a tuner! https://www.shure.com/en-US/products/wireless-systems/glx-d_plus/ If your band is doing all the switching, why not take the whole thing a step further and be on wireless! I've been performing wirelessly for 8 years all over the world, I even practice wirelessly at home and it's so convenient to be able to walk around the apartment, sip on coffee, etc.

For this reason, it's a good idea to have all your presets be the same in terms of their basic components. If you have 2 completely different presets, especially if you download it from Custom Tone, then it's asking for trouble. So what works is if you have the same exact signal chain for all your presets, same amp, same distortion, etc. Then you add some extra bells and whistles, have different delay tempo between the 2 presets, etc... but the core of the sound is the same. If you completely reinvent the signal chain in each preset, you risk having lots of volume discrepancies and tonal discrepancies between your presets and their snapshots. There is a reason you do a sound check, think of the old days--a guitarist will go through their clean/distorted sounds, and the sound guy is happy. Now imagine instead of the main 2 sounds, you have 25 different sound with completely unexpected EQs that will completely change the band mix. No good. Even if you analyze the DB level of your signal, some sounds appear louder because of their equalization, lack of reverb, etc. No amount of tools and gauges will really be able to tune the volume balance between your sounds, until you know exactly what you need to do in your given situation, until you try out those sounds through a loud PA. And once you know what works, you can simply copy/paste and create new presets based on this formula that you know works.

You could have loosened the pedal too much, and turning the Hex key clockwise won't do anything, because it's gotten too lose. The nut is too far away from the main screw/stem. Do not panic! If this is the only problem with the pedal (not being able to tighten it at all), simply remove the back panel, find the main nut, connect it to the screw and tighten it and off you go. However, I am almost certain you have some other issues with the expression pedal that you tried to solve by tightening/loosening the nut... so please read on, what I had wrong with my Expression pedal. For me: 1. the pedal would start getting crooked and start grinding against the metal. 2. it would either get too stiff, or too loose, nothing in-between. How I solved it. 1. took the back off 2. tightened the 2 screws of the "claw". The "claw" is how you control the aliment of your pedal (tilting to the left or to the right). For me, those 2 screws were not tightened all the way, and the pedal would start moving left/right. 3. lubricated all the friction points with lithium grease liberally. Basically, without taking the mechanism apart, I just applied a blob of lithium grease at every single point.... however it is essential that grease does not go anywhere near the big nut of the mechanism -- the main nut must stay intact and does not need any lubrication, or else you will be constantly tightening the pedal. After this procedure, my pedal has been absolutely fine for 2+ years. The alignment has been great. The pedal moves as much or as little as it needs to.

I wish people would search the forum first before posting. Chances are the topic has already been covered many times. :)

Or... If you want to mute one of the paths, you can put a volume pedal that is set at 0%. Remove the control assignment from it, so that moving the expression pedal does not change the percentage. And then engaging the volume pedal will mute the signal.

The secret to sustain is compression and a delay with high level of feedback. Compression can be a compressor block, or simply a low-gain distortion. I figured out the delay trick a long time ago--a ping-pong stereo delay at the very end of the chain (running in parallel) set at 135.5 BMPs, sync'ed to 1/8th notes, feedback at 60%, mixed to taste (35% for me). I always run delay in parallel, because when you are in stereo, I want the initial note to be heard in both speakers: left and right. Otherwise with a delay mixed at 100% the initial note is heard in the left channel only. Everywhere in the middle, the panning is all screwy when in stereo. Anyway.... That's my personal formula. I don't think there's an exact definitive recipe of what amp and cab to use to get any given tone. I use the Mail Order Twin for every electric guitar sound and can always get my sound (gain-y, clean, feedback, creamy). For whatever reason, I tried a bunch of different amps in the Helix, and none of them worked as I wanted them to in real life. I wanted to have an amp that doesn't have a boomy low-end, is not noisy, and could clean up with a lighter pick attack. In analog world, my amp of choice was alwyas a Fender Deluxe. For some reason, none of the amps in the Helix would give me the same exact response. I found Mail Order Twin, and thought it was "Fender Twin" initially from the name, which it is clearly not--it's based on the Silvertone amp.

OK, ground loop for sure! FYI, I get the same exact sound when I have the USB cable plugged into the Helix (powered on or powered off), while the computer is connected to monitors. The USB cable just does some weird sh to everything else but the Helix, which is not even powered on. Since the Helix is not even running, where's the hum coming from? IDK. The buzzing develops after about 30 seconds of me connecting the USB cable to the Helix. Something weird with the wiring, inductance, resistance, who the f knows. In my apartment, I have no desire to investigate what exactly is causing the noise, but I know what to do to circumvent the noise--unplug the USB cable when not in use--I have a USB hub and I just pull out the cable and I can clearly hear the noise stopping when I do that. Please try the things I outlined in the previous post and let us know! Eliminate as many factors as possible--your computer can be also affecting things! I am confident the issue is with wiring/ground loop.

Since 2 Helixes are exhibiting the same problem, then something else besides the Helix hardware is most likely the issue. 1/4" are unbalanced and are susceptible to noise. XLRs are balanced--noise cancellation. Maybe your space is just noisy... are the 1/4" cables too long? Are they old? In reality, if 1/4" and XLR are set at the same output level, the sound coming out should be pretty much the same, and the hiss shouldn't exist. Do you have Global EQ that you are applying to 1/4" but not XLR or vice versa? Out of curiosity, is the hissing always there, or only on high gain amps? Could it be that you built your presets so that it's outputting different stuff to XLR vs. 1/4"? Or is your output set to "Multi"? Try having your Helix plugged into a completely different electrical outlet, like from another room, while keeping everything the same. Try taking your helix, monitor to another house. Sometimes there can be incurable ground loop/hiss/buzzing that can only be solved this way (been there several times). I posted about this before: several times I had the worst single coil 60 cycle (in the US) and 50 cycle (in Germany) hum even when running my guitar in humbucking mode, that was 10 times louder than usual. If I turned down my guitar, the hum went away. The only thing that completely eliminated the noise was running the extension cord from the opposite side of the stage where there was another electrical outlet, and running my Helix through that power source -- dead silent. Good luck!

oh I see! You can actually export/import an entire setlist, but not a full Helix backup. Just tried it and it works.

Hi all. Wanted to give the Helix Native thing a try. Simple question: how do I restore all the presets from my Helix Floor backup? Is it possible? If so, how do I bring up the "Files / Restore From File" menu? Many thanks!

Sometimes the noise could be due to a ground loop as well. Every once in a while, when I have to play a gig at sound check my guitar buzzes more than usual. Ground lift doesn't help at all. To solve this issue, I typically resort to connecting my gear to 2 independent power sources for my power amp and Helix. 2 completely different power outlets, like one from the left of the stage, and another from the right! Being on the same power strip sometimes creates excessive noise. Last time this happened to me, we were headlining an outdoor festival. And several bands before us had no such issues, but Helix for some reason really buzzed, until we did what I described.

Could you download the preset from the device without the hum and upload it to the one that's noisy, to makes sure they are in fact identical? If you still have noise, check that the following are the same between 2 units: 1. global EQ 2. Input pad. 3. Output level (e.g. line) If they are both the same, then last thing I can recommend is the following experiment: 1) back up both units 2) reset them to factory default 3) upload the same preset and see if the noise is solved.