theElevators

Try resetting the Pod Go to the factory defaults. See if this helps. If you didn't do anything and your Pod Go won't boot all of a sudden, definitely submit a support ticket, that's not normal. As for things failing right before showtime, this can unfortunately happen. I've seen lots of things fail right before the show, including a MacBook Pro's sound just failing all of a sudden--then rebooting fixed it. That's why you must have a backup for every gig you are playing. When I toured and relied on the Helix Floor, I'd take a Helix LT as my backup, much to the annoyance of my band mates. But knowing that it's just Chinese mass-produced printed circuit board plastic junk, I know better. If you have a backup, nothing ever goes wrong. When you do not, then that's when the fun starts. Recently I've downsized to a Pod Go for my drunk bar performances. Every time I play, I arrange for some kind of a backup situation, including my friend's Pod Go loaded with the very same presets I'm playing. Right now I'm seriously considering buying a second Pod Go for all these drunk beer-spilling situations. Pod Go is so tiny, that it won't break my back if I take 2 of them together--still way lighter than my Helix Floor. cheers!

There should be little difference between your rhythm/lead tone. What I do, and most people don't necessarily agree, is I take an EQ and boost 2K frequency to around 6 db, to taste. That makes the leads pop. I do a/b tests, and dial in the EQ so that the tone is nearly the same, just more present and in your face.

Check the mix parameter of the pitch block. Make sure that the mix is set at "100%", otherwise you could be hearing both the original and the pitch wham note, resulting in this garbled mess. Also, right click on the "pitch" parameter, see how it is assigned to the expression pedal. Check the min and max values, to make sure it goes up to the correct pitch. It's not exactly clear to me what is happening, but I hear two pitches being played together.

There is no way to lock settings. I too accidentally changed the calibration of the tuner. Since that happened, I just learned that I need to be mindful of the values that are there. You can make a checklist for yourself of what to do. I made a video of various other tricks that may help you with playing live. https://youtu.be/o0S6WNKXQKc?si=QO_5CCgPRhhGnE20 As for locking the knobs, you can literally tape them all down with some tape. Or take a piece of rubber and glue it to the Helix so that it touches all the knobs, but lets them be turned. Or find something online, like this thing: https://www.gearbyceba.com/line6-family-usa/p/helix-floorlt-rack-knob-protectors-short-for-use-with-gearbyceba-full-screen-guards Honestly, for me, the knobs are not a problem anymore, because I simply learned to double-check this stuff before I start playing.

Lots of mixing headphones you can buy. Amazon is your friend. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mixing+headphones As for wireless--wireless (bluetooth) won't work because of the high latency. Stereo wireless IEM systems exist, but professional ones cost over a thousand dollars. If you want a decent wireless IEM system, this is what I use to practice. It's not for professional use, but perfect for apartment practicing. The sound is mostly very good, but there are a few notes that somehow seem to crack / resonate. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097PCY5X4 For home practicing, I simply connect my trusty Bose noise-canceling headphones to the wireless IEM system, and it serves its purpose EXTREMELY well. And again, I would never ever gig with that wireless system, because for 139 USD you will never get anything trustworthy, that's an axiom.

Maybe the issue is because the preset behaves differently in mono/stereo mode? Not sure how you connect your Helix to the PA, etc. But I've had cases where stereo effects (in particular doubler) behaved completely differently in mono vs. stereo... in mono, the overall volume was way quieter. ... Meaning, if I connect left/right to speakers, the balance is as I expect it to be. Then when I disconnect the right speaker left/mono signal has a significant drop in volume with the doubler enabled. I suspect phasing issues are responsible for this, waves cancel each other out and you get a volume drop. But in stereo mode, the left/right signals are separate, and there is no cancelation.

I like the Tube Compressor the most. I only use it when I want to have my clean sounds to not die on me, but sustain. I have a video I recently made with a free preset download link.

Why don't you simply try running your Pod Go at home and connect headphones, to hear for yourself what it sounds like? It could be that your sound is very in fact very tinny. That happened to me when I got Headrush FRFR 108 to dial in my sound. The problem with that speaker is that it's very bass-heavy. It must be placed on a stand, otherwise it rattles the entire stage. It's not as unbiased as a mixing monitor is. So when I played my very first concert using Line 6 Helix, the sound guy told me that my sound was absolute garbage--it has absolutely no bass, and was tinny and shrill. Afterwards I got myself mixing monitors and that's what I've been using ever since to dial in my sounds. Once I figured out the main formula of what worked, I stick to the same amp/EQ settings, and simply dress up my sounds as needed for any new song I need to play. Take a look at the Helix forum, there're lots of "lessons learned" posts about dialing in your sounds. If your sounds are great coming out of the FRFR, maybe the FOH guy has to do some adjustments to make your guitar sounds suitable for the house PA. But if you take that very same sound without any adjustments and run it into your headphones, you get that tinny AM radio sound.

Download the Pod Go edit version that matches your firmware version on the POD Go. You will see what version that is when you boot it. Go to this website, select Pod Go as hardware, Pod Go Edit as software, and your OS. https://line6.com/software/index.html Sometimes Pod Go Edit crashes. But for me, that doesn't happen consistently, only very rarely. If you've downloaded the right software and it still crashes, then back up your Pod Go on another computer, if you can. Last resort is to perform a factory reset, but you will unfortunately lose your personal presets/settings in the process.

That's the danger of not being able to lock your settings. I managed to change the tuner calibration to 436 instead of 440, and didn't even realize it for a few months. When in doubt, click on all the knobs--that will restore the values to the defaults.

That knob often goes first. Try doing a factory reset first, to see if it comes back to life. Otherwise, open up a support ticket. My friend's preset knob doesn't click in anymore, for example. These encoders/ buttons are very cheap. Otherwise, just live with it, and use a computer to select the right set list, and use preset up/down buttons to select the preset you need. You can also reorder presets on the computer as well.

There’s at least one more firmware update coming. As per the Line 6 chief architect interview.

make sure that you have assigned the proper values to EXP 1. It depends on your preset -- the expression 1 or 2 pedal can only do stuff if that particular parameter is assigned to it. I use the Expression pedal 1 to control the Delay block feedback for example. Go and double check in Pod Go edit that: 1. you right click on the wah parameter, or any other parameter of any block you need it to control. 2. it is assigned to "EXP 1" If it's not assigned to anything, then moving the pedal won't do anything. By default, when you drag in your wah pedal, it has assignments created for you, so maybe clear the block and re-add a wah pedal. If it doesn't work, then the expression pedal died, I'm afraid.

had the same issue on 2 Helixes. Removed the big knob with my fingers, took a wrench and tightened the nut. Then put nail polish over the nut -- what should have been done at the factory -- Loctite or some other material. Nuts always get loose, so nail polish has been my method for several decades.

The cable that combines both left and right will make the output signal hotter. I tested this and saw much more distortion in my sound when doing the doubling.

There's simply a bug with restoring from a backup, as I mentioned above. It does not update certain parameters in global settings.

Check output level: "line" or "instrument" in global settings. Just go through all of them and compare. I noticed that when you back up/restore from the pod go, these output levels do not get set correctly. For example the setting whether the volume know controls amp/mains/or both outputs does not get set correctly when restoring from a backup.

My friend tried to record from the Helix into Cubase, and for him too the signal was very low.

In my experience on the Helix, it's not a good idea to control parameter values with both snapshots and expression pedal/switches. Sometimes this happens, what you are describing.

only if you have a preset that has very high output level, it could be the clipping sound that you hear. Dial down the loudness of everything, that should help.

I think it's just voodoo stuff.... with analog pedals. I got rid of all my pedals after switching over to Line 6. I just have the Shure wireless, then Helix/Pod Go. But if you are looking for something to tweak, here's a story. My tone was just sterile on the Helix, and I couldn't figure out what was wrong. I decided to try to tweak things one component at a time... And then I increased the gain parameter of my Mail Order Twin by exactly 1%--and that all of a sudden fixed it for me. The sustain was there all of a sudden, just came to life. I am running my amp very clean, but with very very slight grit. That 1% gain increase just did some magic number for me. There you go!

In my experience, and in experience of several Helix/Line 6 owners that I know... the footswitches go bad. Something like they have a life expectancy of 3 years, after which they need to be serviced/microswitches replaced. So, maybe you can find a great deal in terms of price, but I would be very cautious regarding how much life the footswitches have left in them. Here's my experience. I use LT for home practicing an light gigging, Floor for gigging, Pod Go for practicing/gigging. 1. Got an open box LT. The footswitches needed to be serviced within 2 years of reasonable use by me. Everything worked, but several buttons were not as responsive. I cleaned them with liquid DeoxIT, and it's still good 2 years later. 2. Got a brand-new Floor. Within 1.5 years of gigging, 2 buttons became very flaky. Had to get it serviced under warranty. 1.5 years later -- no issues. 3. Got a brand-new Pod Go. Within 3 months of practicing (no gigs!), one button became flaky. Opened it up, cleaned it with liquid DeoxIT, and 5 months later no issues. 4. A friend of mine got a used LT -- same thing, had to clean out the microswitches. 5. Another friend got an HX Stomp -- 3 buttons completely died, had to solder new microswitches. So if I were you, I'd be extremely cautious getting a used Helix for this reason. Some people keep it in the studio, some take it on the road. Some switch sounds constantly throughout the set (me), some just stay on one sound throughout.

Sometimes you can have a ground hum. I've experienced it in several venues / outdoor festivals. You are doing exactly what you typically do, but there's this ground hum coming out of your processor's direct out, as well as the amp. The only reliable remedy is to connect your processor/speaker cab to different power sources. Also try the "ground lift" on both devices before doing this. With me, several times ground lift did absolutely nothing, and I literally had to get an extension cable from the other power source, nothing else helped. Try your setup at another place/apartment, to see for yourself...

I came to the Pod Go from the Helix. When I play gigs, I always send direct signal (left and right) to FOH, while I monitor myself through an amp on stage, running the signal into the Return jack. On the Helix, I used XLRs to to send the signal to FOH. To answer your question: On the Pod Go, I run the balanced outs with an XLR adapters you can find for cheap to the FOH. The amp out is the same exact thing for me as what's sent to FOH, automatically combined into mono, and running out of a clean guitar amp's return circuit, just to hear myself on stage. I know that you can disable the amp simulation for the "amp out", but I leave mine on. I have various effects before/after the virtual amp/cab, so if I disable amp simulation, it's going to sound unusable. If I play a gig and the amp onstage doesn't have an effects loop, I simply run it as clean as possible and use the regular input. Since the amp onstage isn't mik'ed, it really doesn't matter. An amp like Fender Deluxe works great for monitoring IMO. And BTW, I highly recommend Mooer Baby Bomb as a highly-portable power amp. I toured Europe with it, just using a Fender Deluxe as a glorified speaker cabinet for it. Lastly, the volume knob only controls the signal loudness of "amp out", but not the main left/right. That's how professionals do this. Take it from me :) My YouTube channel has a bunch of resources on all such topics, btw. https://www.youtube.com/@accidentals_hacks

Touch a button, don't press it, just touch it with your fingers for a few seconds. You will see a menu pop up. That's what you are briefly seeing.