theElevators

No, you can't tune individual strings differently with a standard guitar. You can only do that with a Variax guitar -- each string can be tuned virtually to any pitch you want. Variax guitars are on their way out, and Line 6 pretty much gave up on them at this point. Instead of using alternate tunings, you can get creative and change the relative tuning of your entire guitar, that is of course possible. I have one song in the key of D, and to play it properly the way it was recorded in the studio, I transpose my entire guitar down a full step, using Poly Capo block.

Not the first post about FRFR recommendations. I still firmly believe that you get the best feel if you have a guitar cab on stage and run Helix 1/4" out through a power amp. FRFR's have a very narrow range in terms of stage area they cover, unless you get a really big one. It just operates like a wedge monitor: you can hear very well if you are standing directly in front of it, but if you step away, the sound goes away. Plus you absolutely need to put the FRFR on a stand, otherwise you will have a problem with it having too much bottom (explained at the end). So once again, what works for me is to simply run my signal through a clean power amp into a single 12" speaker for stage volume/personal monitoring. I toured Europe for 2 weeks and played through a rented Fender Deluxe amp. I disconnected the speaker cable, and plugged it into the "out" of my Mooer Baby Bomb 30W solid state power amp. It sounded like the real thing and endured 5 hours of operation per day. I heard myself clearly on stage, and got feedback, etc as needed. But to emphasize, I ran the actual sound via Helix's XLR L/R to the front of the house, the amp on stage was just for me to hear myself. When a speaker cannot be disconnected from an amp, I just run the combo amp on the cleanest setting. Fender Deluxe, Fender Twin work the best in my experience as clean amps that simply amplify what you feed into them. I've been following what people did back in the early days of guitar modellers--and most people did precisely that. They would just run the sound out of a rented amp for stage volume, tapping into the power amp section (return jack). For my personal rig, I bought a single 12" speaker cab by Orange, and also power it by Mooer Baby Bomb. Works consistently. I also have a FRFR-108 2000-watt 1x8". It's great because it's light. It is amazing for small coffee shop gigs, or living room rehearsals. But I will never use it onstage. It always lives in my car. If you are planning on using it to dial in your sounds, don't! FRFRs can be very bass-heavy, despite their name (not full range, and definitely not flat response). That was the case with mine. When I first started dialing in my sounds, I quickly discovered that the sound I had dialed in was unusable for live use, though it sounded great at home through my FRFR.

If it’s a new guitar: Did you remove the plastic around the knobs 100%? (If applicable) I’ve had that on a Stratocaster. There was a piece of plastic from the pickguard and it was inducting electricity.

I’ve experienced something similar. In my case it was the eq that boosted a parasitic frequency, Thad caused that microphonic feedback on my guitar on certain pickup combinations. You can try to put an eq block in your chain and try to notch out the bad frequency, most likely it’s something in the 2k range.

Not only is there phasing, it also behaves very differently when you run your Helix in mono vs. stereo -- there will be drastic volume discrepancies. My recommendation is to never run this effect in stereo, until the bugs are fixed.

Next year... since they already came out with the "flux" control for the HX One pedal, and are offering new upgraded toeswitches, as well as the micro-USB plug. I'm pretty convinced it'll happen next year. It'll probably have the touch screen, and just have more power. Just like they did with Pod HD 500-> Pod HD 500x.

OK, it's clear you haven't spent enough time reading the manual / watching videos from your statement regarding "bank", "presets" etc. So if I were you, I'd start with getting familiar what presets are, and what snapshots are. Once you familiarize yourself with those concepts.... I recommend a preset-per-song approach. Inside the preset you can have snapshots for each different sections. You can organize your presets in order of your set list. So yes, RTFM.... OTHERWISE you are jumping the gun.

Not exactly sure what sound you have in your mind... However, you can definitely change the delay tempo on the fly by assigning the BPM's to your expression pedal with a min/max values. that way you can slow your delay down as you are playing. (Make sure to have transparent Delay setting Global Settings -> Preferences -> Tap Tempo Pitch: set the option to “Transparent” )... otherwise it will make glitch y sounds when the tempo changes, unless you want that.... If you want some kind of a specific rhythm for delays, try Multitap 6. You can add 2 of them in parallel, so that you can have 12 delay notes with specific tempo/rhythm/panning.

Why not organize your presets in order of your set? That’s the most practical workflow. Create as many presets as the songs you are playing. Order them according to the set list. Use the up/down buttons to switch to appropriate presets. The up/down buttons exists for this specific purpose. you can change what the up/down buttons do….

Well Zoom has midi and a great tuner. With midi you need to buy an adapter, but they exist. Video below demonstrates it. plus I hear it’s popular in the shoegaze community.

I still have my MS-50G by Zoom. An absolutely amazing pedal. Used it back when I used pedals. You could cycle through multiple presets with the button press (A->B->C->A). I used it for solo boots, had a delay + EQ for loud solos, also used it for various trick sounds. It had a lot of really really great effects, as well as amps! There was no gap when switching between presets... unless the effect was very complicated... it would fade in rather than there being a silent gap. I never had to use the amps, but I'm sure with some tweaking they could have been more than usable. The only issue I kept having was the knobs were in the way, so I removed the knobs and trimmed the stems, so they were out of the way, but I could still adjust things as needed. Zoom effects are really great... Zoom MS > HX One for sure!

I stand corrected. Could have sworn there was some auto save setting.

Oh yes! Adding a parallel path (even with block that is always bypassed) will have your volume drop. Remove that path and the volume jumps up.

If you have “snapshot edits” set to ‘discard’ in global settings, you need to specifically press save to apply your changes. Otherwise it will auto-save whatever changes you make. So if you have your cursor on the reverb block, it’s really easy to turn the “mix” block by accident—the unit is so small and everything is so close together. I am absolutely against auto-saving of anything. I want to be sure that I save things only when I want to do that. Some people may disagree. Also I always put the cursor in the corner, so I cannot ever change anything live by accidentally touching the knobs. For my list of hacks, you can watch my video: https://youtu.be/o0S6WNKXQKc?si=SeDkLhEDnGEsLxgI

When you re-entered the preset, was the level back to normal? Do you have your "cursor" set on the reverb block, so maybe you touched the knobs and that's how you wound up increasing the reverb level? Do you run your unit in stereo, is reverb panned some way?

Another thing you can do is to add snapshots to stomp mode using command center. That way pressing the mode button will not affect what snapshots you use. That’s if you use snapshots. I explain what is involved.

No way to disable it. What I do to all my line 6 devices is the Grolsch washer trick. Buy Grolsch beers. Take the washers off the caps. Place 2 of them onto the button. It works like a charm. Makes the buttons more difficult to press—but they still can still be pressed.

Therefore, my recommendation is to downgrade to 3.11. As somebody who has spent countless hours dialing in my presets, I do not want to have my sounds get broken without me knowing it, only to find out that something has changed during a show. Dual cabs, a handful of new amps/effects, legacy synths are cool and all, but what good is it if you constantly risk having your sounds change? I've been using 3.11 ever since it came out and IMO it's the most stable, most bug-free version of the firmware. I run it on both LT and Floor and don't plan on upgrading until I'm dead sure this bug has been fixed.

As far as I understand, putting such effects in the loop ruins the tone/feel. It's not an analog loop, so there's digital/analog/digital/analog conversion, so it will never be the same as putting it in the beginning of your chain. I would recommend giving the internal fuzz a try. I, for example, was pleasantly surprised when I found the octavio sound of the Helix... it sounded pretty sweet! https://youtu.be/Ke7A1PrvsEU?si=8sMsPbKZ9CgTF4Er

mind blown! ha ha ha!!! It's not a bug, it's a feature. A very useful feature.... this is even more hysterical.

There is no adjustable input pad on the Helix. I have my backup guitar to my main one, and it's a lot quieter, so when I use that guitar, on my wireless, I adjust the input gain and boost it + 3db. But that's beside the point. Usually you build your presets around the sound that your guitar produces. If you have active EMG pickups, then basically dial down your distortion. If your clean amp is breaking up, then you can simply lower the input signal with a volume pedal, or a gain block, or even an EQ block where you lower the output level. There are 2 workarounds on how to achieve the adjustable pad you are asking for if you want to have an option of using your low-output guitar or a high-output guitar. Basically during the show you break a string, and you want to use your Zakk Wylde guitar as opposed to a telecaster, you have these 2 options: 1. You can add a fixed volume pedal in your preset chain, where it is set to for example "40%". That means, you remove the expression-pedal assignment from it, and just leave it at a fixed percentage. You can assign a button to that volume pedal to one of the foot switches in stomp mode. So, when you need to play your EMG-equipped guitar, simply turn on the volume pedal with the button and you are good to go. If you want to also use your snapshots, then Command Center to the rescue--you can mix your snapshots with the volume pedal-controlling button. Or you can set up your layout to be 4 buttons on top control stomps, 4 buttons on the bottom control snapshots. or another way is to use another aux. input for those situation 2. In your preset you can have multiple inputs. You can always have an additional input (return 1, 2, etc) that has been adjusted to turn down the signal so it is not as hot. Here's a video where I explain how to achieve this. So in short, you would have to modify your presets to make them work with the high-output guitar. Hope it helps.

If you didn't change anything on the Helix, it could be a bad 1/4" cable. Also, check if your amp is ok (or whatever you run your Helix through). Did you tough your global EQ?

I had a random piece of plastic (matted) from the button ring in my Pod GO. Opened it up, shook it out, and called it a day.

I will repeat myself: firmware 3.11 has no such issues. Everything after it, e.g. 3.6 has such bugs, which I suspect are mainly with HX Edit, not the Helix itself. Things do not get copied correctly.... editing one preset affects the other one. If you want stability, downgrade to 3.11. If you have to have the new dual cabs and a handful of effects, then unfortunately you're stuck with this, until Line 6 fixes these bugs... at some point... But first you need to convince them that this is a bug, because people will say "I don't have such issues, works fine for me".