theElevators

My LT locks up sometimes when it's connected to the computer and HX Edit is running. LT locks up at the same time as HX Edit crashes. When it happens, the only thing to do to un-lock it is to reopen HX Edit.

As an experiment: disable the tap tempo light. Do you still get that noise?

Well you can use one or 2 “kitchen sink” presets. I’ve gone down route for one project. I used all 8 snapshots and made use of the expression pedal to bring in various additional effects depending on what snapshots I was in. I also used the tap tempo button to change the delay whenever there was a need to change the tempo saved in the snapshot. The other preset I had was only used for one song that required drop A tuning and a heavier amp with the help of the capo block. So in that situation I could easily hypothetically tweak my sounds, because it’s only 2 presets. Put it this way, you can most definitely cover your entire set with this approach, unless you go all out and have very specific trick sounds. in my main band I wanted to simplify my job as much as possible so I used the preset-per-song approach. Sometimes I needed to make changes to multiple presets right before the show, when certain sounds that I used in those presets didn’t sound good during sound check. Another solution is to use an external amp pedal. Lots of options right now. For example my favorite one is Joyo American Sound. I got rid of it since acquiring the Helix.

I do a lot of tweaking where I need to tweak certain snapshots. And let's just say, saving everything at once is extremely problematic for me. I want to save exactly what I want and when :) Sometimes I make a tweak to a snapshot and I discard that modification. Sometimes I want to save only one snapshot at a time, not all of them.... My presets are pretty complicated. So again, prior to the recent update, command center allowed you to designate what each button does, but that layout would stay the same in the preset. I know because I've created my command center layout many times, it just took 8 assignments and all worked as expected. Now, the layout is configurable relative to the current snapshot selection. Great? yeah! Is it for me? no. I only use snapshots personally. I use the command center to be able to disable up/down buttons. So if I want to use my left-most buttons and not accidentally change the preset, I press the mode button--the screen looks the same minus the up/down buttons--all snapshots are in their old place. Also if I accidentally press the mode button I don't have a blank screen... because I don't ever use the stomp mode.... lol I used to play a lot of stuff that relied on frequent sound changes, so I wanted to minimize any chance of going into the wrong preset, or going into a view where all my snapshot buttons are gone.

And I personally don't want to have the Helix save snapshots without my confirmation. This is definitely a new behavior for Command Center, and it would be very nice to be able to make it work the way it worked in 3.15. It's very flexible with the new behavior, but you now have to re-save your Command Center 8 times if you want to have the same layout for all 8 snapshots.

This is new behavior in the Helix. You need to go through every single snapshot and create command center layout when that snapshot is selected. It’s annoying. But you can basically change the layout and what buttons do whenever each snapshot is selected.

Is this a hardware issue? Can you elaborate what exactly happened? For example, if you create a simple preset from scratch, does it work as expected? Maybe your changed the signal level of your effects loop somehow? check the global settings.

For most cases, stereo is accomplished by running stereo delays at the very end of your chain. Alternatively you can get stereo by running stereo cabinet blocks with different left/right cabinets... or running 2 different amp+cabs. Running completely different signals to left/right XLRs is asking for trouble. Different amps are EQ'ed differently, compress differently and if a sound engineer puts the mix straight in the middle, then there will be volume/tone discrepancies on left/right, and the sound guy is not going to be too happy. For example running Vox AC30 on the left and a Marshal on the right will result in having volume jumps, and the sound guy will probably get fed up and just run you in mono. I would recommend having your signal in mono up until the very end of your chain where you add reverb/delay. Both left/right sides need to be similar, minus the delays/reverbs/panning. So if you absolutely must combine 2 amps, then add a split, run both sides of the split to 2 different amps, then combine it, and add all the effects I mentioned ending with a delay. To create a split, you simply take a block and drag it down, it will create the loop split--then you can place the merge wherever you want. But the key is again to run 2 things and then combine them together in mono and then after you get the desired sound, you add things that make your signal be actual stereo. So in summary, don't create a stereo preset just for the sake of it. It should be practical, it should sound balanced and it should be easy for a sound person to run your guitar without any special accommodations. And then again, you can do whatever you wish, Helix allows lots of crazy sonic options like wet/dry/wet... That kind of a setup relies heavily on the sound engineer to make the decision how to actually mix all 3 different sounds together and produce a mix. If the sound engineer is not familiar with what you are supposed to sound like, then you can get a complete garbled mess. Another thing is that your guitar signal should work as either mono or stereo. Sometimes some venues don't have enough channels for you, so you need to go in mono. Your Helix should have the outputs configured in such a way, so you can adjust to any situation like that. Lots of live sound engineers just do mono on everything, if you are playing some kind of a stadium. So that's something else you should definitely test drive your presets for--mono mix. Just sharing my experience, I've made some of these mistakes myself and learned as I went. Good luck!

Just discovered a bug that I'm pretty sure existed for a while. Basically there's an incompatibility between the Helix Floor and Helix LT. Rather than gracefully letting the user know that the feature is not supported, the Helix LT crashes and sometimes fails to boot if you happen to be on the problematic preset. On a Helix Floor, enable 10-button stomp mode, use the Command Center to assign what the left-most buttons do. So in my case, I assigned those buttons to select next/previous presets. I created a backup. Then went on Helix LT and restored from the backup. On Helix LT every time I go into the stomp mode Helix LT freezes and becomes unresponsive. If you were on the problematic preset before powering down the Helix LT and you are currently in the stomp mode, then Helix fails to boot with the black screen. Solution: on Helix Floor, remove assignment for the left-most buttons in Command Center for all applicable presets, create a backup. Helix LT will not have any issues restoring from the backup and using those presets. --- PS: Up until now I didn't use Command Center except replicating what my snapshot view looks like MINUS the up/down buttons. That way I can press the mode button and disable up/down buttons. That's the only use case for me personally.

unfortunately, no. You can however copy/paste your amp block in HX Edit. It is inconvenient for sure! But once you dial in your main sound, creating multiple presets from it by copy/pasting the preset, and not touching it because you already set it up as you need it is the way to go.

on a Mac, find the magnifying glass icon on top right of your Mac, also known as "Spotlight Search". Click that, type in HX Edit.

When pasting a block I usually immediately remove all the snapshot controls from it, and then recreate it.

"the best" is so subjective... However when I played bass guitar primarily, my main factors were always: dependability and portability. One time I played a show and there was a tiiiiny box on top of a huge cab, I thought it was a very fancy DI box. I plugged in, put it on like 1.5 and BOOOM! woah!! Well long story short--I got myself this: https://www.markbass.it/product/little-mark-iii/ for $750 15 years ago. It has a nice punchy sound, no stupid tubes, and can sound like anything you will ever need, looks great and fits into a backpack. It has plenty of power to play a huge stage, if needed. A lot of people scoff when they see it, thinking it's a toy... that's what I thought first before I plugged into it at that aforementioned gig. Shortly thereafter I got myself a Markbass speaker cabinet as well. No regrets. If you don't care about any of the bass amp features at all, then get a power amp, if those exist. I play guitar using a Mooer Baby Bomb 30-W power amp for stage volume, and it sounds fantastic. For bass, you need more power, and after doing a quick search I'm convinced that getting a compact bass amp is the way to go instead. I was not able to find a power amp suitable for bass for 100 USD or so. That's because most bass players just use an amp, so you should probably do the same. Also, most bass players don't use modellers / processors because most of the time you just need your direct sound. I'm not saying it's right, but I only used 2 things on my bass: distortion for a few songs and a looper. I never used any compressor, because most amps I've played have a built-in compressor/gain to achieve what I needed. So get a quality compact powerful solid state amp, which Markbass has a reputation of building. 15 years later, mine still works fantastic.

Use the same amp. Don't change the impedance between presets. Don't have a compressor with severely aggressive settings on either presets.

Use the effects loop: send and return. In the effects loop you can add your favorite pedal(s). And then you move the send/return position in your preset, so that in your case you have Wah, then effects loop send/return, then amp/cab, and then volume. The only thing is that running gain pedals in your effects loop always introduces noise. So my advice is to just find something in the HX Stomp. There are plenty of choices. I used to be one of those people who needed my particular distortion, but found my sound after a week or so. So in short, a processor is meant to be run as a standalone device, unless you have something that is just so unique that Line 6 doesn't have a model for it.

Some guitar jacks are different, because you have an active guitar, for example. On one of my basses, that is the case. The reason for that is that the jack needs to connect the power to the instrument only when the jack is in. So this can be the reason. You can get an adapter for your transmitter: a female to male 1/4" cable.

No way to do this, unfortunately.

Maybe it's your 1/4" -> 1/8" adapter then? That's bizarre. It should be changing the sound programmatically. it's not a physical volume pot.

In terms of preventing yourself from messing up your presets, I have a nice video with all the best practices I've been able to find. For example, put the cursor in the corner, so the knobs are not going to change any setting. Otherwise, you can easily press on those knobs and create/change bypass behavior. I'm curious about the exact steps to replicate this! If you are saying the gain settings are all weird, could it be that you accidentally removed the snapshot assignment? And simply changed the settings of your gain block, so all snapshots would get the same value? I just updated my Helixes to the latest firmware because I needed one specific reverb for one of the songs, which turns out we are not even playing :) Prior to that I've been on 3.11 for several years without an issue you describe.

On the Helix Floor, you have a dedicated headphone out knob which controls a stereo 1/4" out jack for your headphones. So why not use that as it was intended? If you need to have an XLR jack for your headphone mix, why not get an TRS to XLR adapter? The added benefit is that you can run to FOH in stereo, if you choose to do so, as opposed to always having mono. Also sometimes you need to dial in the volume of your FOH volume vs. headphone mix. Same applies to the Global EQ--sometimes you only want to apply it to one output instead of across the board. So in terms of the stereo/mono mix, in theory if you have all your effects in mono, XLR L/R should be identical. To guarantee that that is the case, you need to put a mono block at the very end of your chain. Note that the legacy folders contains stereo versions of delays, reverbs, etc. So put a simple mono gain/volume at the end. I have seen a lot of weird issues where mono is not always mono, however. Some effects, like the doubler starts having really weird issues in mono--volume starts dropping because of phasing issues. Also you may lose some gain when you split your signal as you describe. I never use IEMs live personally. I do have a cheapo stereo IEM transmitter that I use during late night practicing at home. For that I use the headphone jack, controlled by the headphone volume knob, as I described.

you can easily hack it to remove amp/cab blocks and you can have more effects blocks. a well-known hack.

WD-40 with Lithium works great, however.

Here’s my take: Get the Helix and you will get everything you’d ever need. It’s a self-contained touring rig. No FOMO later. Otherwise, HX Effects is pretty nice, lots of buttons and snapshots. HX Stomp/XL always feel like it’s got a tiny screen, tiny crowded knobs and not enough horsepower for its price. Pod Go would be a great product if the build quality was at least as good as the Helix. It has even cheaper buttons that stop working with normal use after a few months. It will not withstand touring, unless you plan on replacing it with a new unit every year or sooner. The price is great—around 400 USD, if you are lucky. I got it as a backup and was extremely impressed with its capabilities. It’s basically a mini-Helix with snapshots, nearly all blocks in it, amps and IRs, even midi. It can be a sound interface too. But built like a POS despite sounding fantastic. And don’t even consider Helix One, or that new plastic pedal — the build quality is less than subpar. If you plan on investing money into something that lasts more than a year without needing to be cleaned in order to work, get Helix/Stomp/Effects. Or get a solid midi controller and then the build quality will be a non-issue.

The buttons on the Pod Go are absolute garbage. If the actuators actually work, the mechanism is very scratchy and just bad. That's because the buttons operate inside these plastic rings without anything protecting the plastic. The metal spring gets rusty, the actuators get gunked up. So here's the first thing to do: clean the actuators. I have a video how to do this here. Then if your buttons start getting scratchy (happened to me after several months of inactivity), use some kind of a lube, like I use WD-40 with Lithium grease -- it really helps with stuck hinges, etc; apply a little bit on the button, and then press it a few times, wiping off all the residue--there will be lots of it.

Or you can just circumvent that by: 1. Enabling wah in specific snapshots 2. Have wah get un-bypassed when you rock it past 5%. I NEVER use the toe switch and I actually disable the toe switch by plugging in a short-circuited cable into the external pedal jack. The problem for me is that on the Pod Go, the switch engages way too easily. I do the same thing on the Helix.