theElevators

Yep, it's just a bolt, some washers, a nut. If the nut keeps loosening, then there's some excessive friction that is happening. Lubrication should fix it. You can even add some plumbers tape so that the nut stays in place to prevent it from loosening by itself. Yep, all that stuff is sold in your hardware store. Very simple mechanism, but if things are not tightened enough or not lubricated, then you'll have issues. Make sure to really tighten the "claw" screws, mine were loose and that caused all sorts of issues. This video illustrates what's involved. Watch it multiple times and good luck.

I seriously doubt that a Helix/Stomp adds coloring to the signal if you have no blocks.... have you checked the output level? Set the level to "line" and disable the volume knob. (some will say leave the volume on max, but for the sake of this experiment, let's disable it to be sure we are actually getting line level) The experiment: 1. take an amp and play with just a 1/4" cable and no pedals 2. now add your Stomp and play the same. Are you saying that now you get more low end that you didn't have before? But yeah... Global EQ is meant to make adjustments to the sound you are happy with. Do not build your sound with the help of Global EQ. GE is only if you get on stage and your cabinet is too boomy or the sound guy is complaining. Every venue, cab, stage construction will change your sound... ...Or some weird frequency it there that is undesirable.... (that's what my sound guy always asks me to do, EQ one pesky frequency that does not even bother me on stage)

I play a Brian May guitar myself, although I don't go for the Queen sound at all. I use a wireless and I don't see any difference in how the guitar clean up, etc with it or without it going direct with a cable. I'm pretty sure that's why the man himself puts the treble booster on the Red Special strap right before the transmitter. I love the volume knob trick, and my sound is always configured in such a way -- rather than turning off the distortion for clean sounds, I simply cut the input volume either with my volume knob, or with a fixed volume pedal on the Helix. Maybe you can try downloading a free Brian May preset on custom tones, and seeing how it works out for you. I did for the heck of it, and yep, sounded like Brian May. I say it's mostly cork sniffing to run the treble booster right out of the guitar.... Similarly to how some people swear by their vintage Vox wah, even though all it is is a filter that most modellers have. I use a Shure GLXD16 (now discontinued) and without any cable simulations it acts exactly the same as if I had a cable there. There may be tiny differences, but I mostly just go wireless, unless I record stuff in a studio.

There are too many incompatibilities in terms of lack of loops/routing. I was able to quickly recreate my Helix presets for the Pod Go by connecting two devices and opening HX Edit / Pod GO Edit side by side. Maybe you can try the same approach? Or at least take screenshots of each block...? I also needed to redo my the delay mix when recreating my presets for Pod Go because there is no way to add effects in parallel (which is how I like to do it on the Helix), so in series, the balance is completely different -- henceforth I had to use my ears. Other than that, I recreated each preset in about 5 minutes.

Helix has all of these. Ditch the pedals. The only thing is that depending on your signal chain, you may run out of DSP... When it comes to where to place the pedals: 1. looper -- most likely add this at the very very end of your chain, followed by delay/reverb 2. Freeze pedal -- same as above: don't add it in the beginning of the chain, otherwise, if you have the distortion block it will distort things and make playing frozen and regular parts a giant mess 3. EQ -- there are many ways to place it. I personally add EQ right before the amp block to have a more piercing lead sound. But you may place it anywhere you want.

To me yes it sounds like it’s a lubrication issue.

The mechanism is very simple, it’s a big thick bolt with a nut. You can tighten or loosen the bolt. Make small adjustments. You may need to lubricate it if the movement is not smooth. If you are out of warranty, you can just take the back panel off and take the things apart: lubricator it with lithium grease and make sure it’s right enough. I fixed mine and it’s been good for a year now.

Hey guys, gals and pals. I know it's not a new thing to turn mono to stereo, but just wanted to share something with you and how it can apply to guitar. So I took an old cartoon which had a very lifeless soundtrack and added more depth to it. Here's what I did: copied the soundtrack into 3 separate tracks For track #1, EQ'ed the bass and removed everything else, and placed it in the middle hard-panned track #2 left; I EQ'ed all the bass out of it, and emphasized certain frequencies, e.g. cymbals/hi-hat hard-panned track #3 right; I EQ'ed all the bass out of it, and emphasized different frequencies, e.g. strumming guitar/voice Took track #2 and moved it a few milliseconds later, so there'd be a slight delay, but without a flam effect End-result: a more balanced and stereophonic mix. The same exact effect can be achieved using stereo IR's from 3.5--you have an ability to EQ left/right differently and adjust the microphone distance which may introduce the slight delay, which is what we want. If you mix your signal correctly, it will take your guitar and make it sound huge. The original source video is in the description.

Sometimes your sound may be great in isolation, but may conflict with your band's instruments. For example, my sound has 300 Hz, which steps on our trombone player's frequency.... so I've EQ'ed that frequency out for live playing. Sometimes global EQ can accomplish the same... as the sound guy can easily tune your stuff properly... but on stage you may need to do it yourself. In my band, I notch out the problematic frequency for the monitor mix, which goes to a power amp/cab.

Every guitar pickup is different. No two single-coils will behave the same way with 2 different amps. Some pickups "clean up" nicely, while others have more distortion.... this is why there will be volume jumps ALWAYS if you don't dial your tones exactly for your specific guitar. Who knows what guitar was used to dial in factory presets / default settings... most likely not the same exact one as you use. One more thing is that pickup heights also play a very important role in how your guitar sounds. They contribute to the amount of clarity and loudness as well. I find that these differences are a lot more pronounced on the Helix compared to real-world guitar amplifiers -- every little difference is exagerated. For example, I used to use 2 different guitars with my pedals interchangeably plugged into any amp that was available. Now, I really need to make sure that the signal strength, amount of gain/distortion is the same. There you go.

Most likely the cheap midro-switch has gone bad. It tends to be the one you most frequently use... like the tap button, or where your "lead" snapshot sound is. If the issue is a mechanical one, then you can clean the micro-switch. Watch a few videos online that document the process. It's a simple procedure if you're not scared to open up your helix/void the warranty. Otherwise, find a good shop that can do it for you. I had the misfortune of dealing with 2 horrible shops....

IMO, the whole point of an LT or Floor is to eliminate the need to have a bunch of pedals, switches, amps--use the Helix to replace your entire signal chain. There are some purists that swear by their specific wah/distortion/delay. I'm not one of them. Helix has all the sounds, or a very very close approximation of all the sounds you may ever need. So if you want to simplify your setup, go with the Helix. If you must use your specific pedals, then don't. So right now my stage setup is done in around 2 minutes: Place the Helix Floor on the floor Connect Left/Right XLR Connect 1/4" cable to the Mooer Baby Bomb that connects to a 12" speaker Connect my wireless system, power everything on Done! All the settings are as I saved them, everything works. Do a quick sound check to make sure left/right are coming through as I expect them to. It's fantastic. I had to do it for 2 weeks every single day abroad in Europe and I was always the first one that was ready to play, before everybody else in my band. Plus, there are all these things that you need to maintain if you have individual pedals--they need to have fresh batteries, or a power source that works.... cables go bad, etc. So IMO a self-contained unit that has everything is a lot more reliable. However, if the entire Helix decides to die one day, then you have absolutely nothing working, and will have to resort to playing the spoons.... That's why with the Helix I always take a backup processor. I have a Pod Go that has all my sounds in 4 presets, that I can use to limp through the show in case my Helix dies. Or if I'm doing a series of shows and have room, I simply take a backup Helix with me. I did that in Europe: took the Floor and the LT with me.

You can simply add a vibrato "bubble vibrato" works pretty nicely in the beginning of your chain: guitar->vibrato->amp..... Max out the depth and the mix. Then set the speed to 4.1... or to taste. It's not a replacement for your whammy bar, but a good substitution. If you want to go crazy, you can set the depth to be controlled by the expression pedal... also the speed. But this will get you close enough...

try the same with a sample factory preset -- do you hear right and left? What about a "blank" preset that has just your guitar signal going through. Do you hear both sides? If yes, then it's your preset that has an issue. Maybe you can share it here. But first we need to eliminate the obvious (user error), so try with something that we know is supposed to work out of the box.

Tighten the pedal with the supplied Hex key. When making adjustments, do it in small increments. If that doesn't help, then maybe you've loosened the pedal to such an extent, that you will need to open up your Helix and attach the nut to the bolt.

Exactly right! I've recorded a lot of stuff by using a small mixer into the return jack. Set it so it doesn't peak/distort and off you go.

already addressed it, thanks. Just saying that this should not happen after a year of light use...

Contact full compass customer support, if you cannot find something online. They have all sorts of things that are not listed, like I ordered replacement LEDs over the phone.

no, that's always been my strategy. Ain't broke, don't fix. But 3.0 came out during the pandemic... so no shows to speak of, so of course I jumped on that bandwagon asap, and incorporated the new features I so desperately needed. After that I'm all set.

I use the foot switches normally -- I press them gently, not like I put my body weight on them. The jumping around context was that I may accidentally miss and don't ever want to change my settings or change presets while I play. Once the micro switches were cleaned, they seem to be absolutely fine... just that you need to clean them and check that they are working OK from time to time. Plus the horrible repair shop experience I've had... If I'm happy with my sounds and all the presets have everything they need to have... then why upgrade just for the sake of upgrading...? For example, once I learned that Line 6 finally added the acoustic sim and improved spring reverb, I immediately upgraded because those were the features that I had been waiting for. Now, I do not need anything beyond 3.11... I don't need dual IRs for my amp, etc.... Plus yes... I have 60+ presets, so I don't feel like redoing all of them to take advantage of some new bells/whistles.

Sometimes the venue/house has bad wiring. Try the same experiment at somebody else's house, some other location? I played a show where the ground loop-like noise was out of control, no matter what I did. We wound up adding DI boxes to left/right XLR, and changing the power source. It helped, but the noise was still there, more loud than usual.

Amps always color your sound... if you have an effects loop, and can connect the Helix to the "return", it will color your sound less. As mentioned in several posts, just get yourself a cheap power amp - Baby Bomb. It works great, it's compact, and all you need is ANY 12" speaker. If you try to connect the Helix to whatever amp you have in the studio, then be prepared for unpredictable/crappy results. That's why I got the tiny little power amp and swear by it. I toured in Europe and just returned from Canada. Connect Helix 1/4" -> Mooer Baby Bomb -> 12" speaker of a Fender Deluxe. Connect XLR L/R to FOH.

Also, try the built-in noise gate that every preset can have. It really works great with default settings.

Are the LT and the Rack routed the same way? Same firmware? Same global EQ? Same exact identical settings?

Guys, please: try the coarse tuner first. I really really insist that the coarse tuner is absolutely fine. It's great, it's fantastic. When I saw the default Fine tuner, I thought it was a piece of crap... It is a piece of crap and is unusable. The needle moves back and forth and you cannot freaking ... tune. Take it from me: I use the onboard tuner for recording sessions. I play 2.5 hours on stage and tune up throughout the show with it. If you tried the coarse tuner, then I don't know what to say... you may have some weird tuning standard that I cannot relate to.