datacommando

Hi, I'm not sure what version of Cubase Elements is part of the bundle with Native, but this video cover the basics of installation of the main Cubase DAW. Once you have it installed and and you know its is functioning correctly, quit Cubase and then simply launch the Helix Native installer, and follow the on screen instructions. That should be it, not too complicated, just like installing lots of other software. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Yeah, living on soup to buy gear was normal in those days, in fact I bought quite a bit of stuff in self build kit form and spent my evenings soldering components on the kitchen table, but it all worked as it should. One of the DIY systems was named Tanrak by Tantek, which was a Eurorack system, and mine comprised of a pair of noise gates, 2 compressors, Parametric EQ and an Exciter module. All good fun. Also, still in the old rack, along with the DM1000, is an extremely rare Nomad Axxeman from around 1987. At the time this thing was the mutts nuts, for getting guitars recorded quickly to tape for demos. It was my main workhorse for a very long time. A Rockman rival, and possibly one of the best chorus fx. Here’s a video of a guy from your hemisphere giving it a run through. Lots of knobs, buttons and LEDs - no menus. ;-)

Hi, For me the best approach is to record a stereo fully processed guitar track via USB 1&2, along with a completely dry DI mono track ON USB 7. This set up allow me to change my mind about the configuration of effects in the signal chain including amps, cabs and mics. The Direct Injected audio signal can be sent back out through your Rack, and by using another preset, you can record another version of the audio (re-amping). This is even easier for me, because I also have Helix Native installed as a plug-in inside Logic Pro. All of my Helix Floor preset can be loaded into Native and processed in the DAW. This is the most flexible option for me. As an owner of a Helix Rack you should be eligible for a discount price on Helix Native. Hope this helps makes sense. Here’s a video of the very basics of the advantages of “re-amping” with the hardware.

Hi, I still have my old (bought new in 1983) Ibanez DM1000 gathering dust in the rack over in the corner, and whenever I feel the need for some grit in the delays, it's available to patch it in on the Helix FX loop. Having said that, there is no real need, because with the Helix Vintage Digital set on 8 Bits and 8kHz, Headroom rolled off to -12db, then mess with the Rate and Depth for some 80s warbling should get you close to a 40 year old piece of gear. Oh, yeah, I also had the Ibanez HD1000 Harmonics Delay some where back in the mist of time. Yep, early digital delay units - some people swear by them, while other folks swear at them. Technology has come a long way since then.

Oh dear, oh dear. ”And please be gentle- I'm just a dude who's trying to find his sound and get back into guitar playing.” Sadly, it appears from your comments, that you really don’t want to put the work in to “find your sound”, but rather give the impression that you are seeking a device with some sort of magic button. You know the sort of thing - click once and make me a guitar god! It’s such a shame that in reality, there is no magic button, much like the “red pill, blue pill”, which you managed to misquote - “I really wish to find the blue pill inside the Helix and enter the Matrix”. In the movie Morpheus says "You take the blue pill... the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill... you stay in Wonderland, and I show you how deep the rabbit hole goes." The thing you say about “learning to cook without knowing about the ingredients”, is a really good way to poison yourself - which looks as if that is what you have done, only with guitar/music stuff rather than food. Regarding learning the tools you have at hand as “chores” is not a great attitude. I wonder if Steve Vai thought practicing for 10 to 12 hours daily was a chore? And, I would bet that when you bought your Monkey Lord, plugged it in hit the strings - you didn’t sound like Rabea, did you! We’re you surprised? Would you go out and buy an aeroplane, jump into the pilots seat and attempt to fly it without any prior knowledge? Put the time in to learn your equipment and get results - the reason Angus Young, John Frusciante, Eric Johnson, or any other guitar player you could name, sound like they do is because they put the hours in to develop their unique tones. Nobody is going to do it for you, and no amount of technology is going to solve this. Keep taking the tablets! EDIT: https://www.guitarplayer.com/gear/its-not-the-gear-that-makes-the-player-its-the-player-that-makes-the-gear-joe-bonamassa-talks-turkey-about-tone

Hi, Although the HX Stomp is not specifically designed for vocal processing, unlike the Helix which has onboard a dedicated mic preamp section, it can be done. What you require is a matching transformer, sometimes known as a Z changer. Anyhow, as a picture is worth a thousand words, here are thousands of pictures (and words) in a video that show how to do it. Granted, this guy is also using his guitar at the same time, but you can easily make a patch for mic only, with the HX mic preamp, an LA studio compressor, and reverb of choice. Simple really. Hope this helps/makes sense.

You may not be thrilled to hear this, but… I am always slightly puzzled by posts like this. You have stated “well then the Helix just isn't for you”, but you did buy it, and I guess you researched what it was, and what it did before parting with your money. You also say that you are “a noob and absolutely not good at dialing in sound”, and it also appears that you are overwhelmed by “option paralysis”. This rather begs the question, what was your reason for wanting a Helix? Plus, no matter how many options are available, you don’t have to use them all. Some folks have done gigs using only a couple of presets! At the time you bought your Helix, if you could have only bought a regular amp combo, or amp and cab, what would it have been? Your decision would most likely have been based on what type of music you were wanting to play. Possibly a Fender for Country and clean tones, or an EVH 5150 for full on rock and metal? ITRW, whatever amp (tube or transistor) you got, you would still have been a “noob” and would have to learn how to get the best out of it. Everybody has to start somewhere, therefore your best bet is to learn how to create the tone you want your Helix to provide. Lots of UChoob video with walkthrough examples from people in the know, Jason Sadites is a prime example. Your comment about “fiddling around with cabs, mics and mic placements”, is truly astonishing! It’s all that fiddling around that makes the sound work, moving a mic just one inch in any direction can transform the tone. Furthermore, “What would you guys think about a slim, trimmed down user interface? Just select your amp and choose between a few effects in predefined slots”. That’s something we probably don’t have to think about, because those nice folks at Line 6 released the POD Go three years ago. All the Helix tone, at half the price and simplified interface. Oh, yeah - “I've never really got a factory preset that sounded good”. For reasons given in these forums many, many times over - you never will, unless you are the person who created it. They are all starting points for your own stuff. After your 2-3 year break, it maybe time to put your learning head on. Hope this helps/makes sense.

You can never get the “amp in the room” sound without having a physical amp in a real room, cranked enough to flap you trousers when you stand in front of it. Stick a mic in front and record that and it will sound different on playback. You’re dealing with a fully produced audio signal in Cubase, or any other DAW. It’s more to do with how you balance and mix the various audio tracks in your composition. As for Mr. Boston - he has his own Helix group on Facebook - find it here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/428105950706417/search/?q=chad boston The only freebie I could find from him on there was a preset and IR claiming no mic or speaker colouration, as per Tom Sholtz Boston tone. In another post Chad says, why waste your life trawling through thousands of IRs, when It is a lot easier and quicker to learn how to use the cabinets in your Helix. You would be better off learning recording and mixing techniques, rather that seeking the Holy Grail IR, that doesn’t exist (the unicorns stole it!). Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hmm… O.K. I must have misunderstood. I saw the words, HX Stomp, audio interface, practice, backing tracks, You Tube, MP3 files and Ableton. The video covers all that, but hey…

Hi, Start at around 3.00 minutes in. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Version 3.61 is only an update to HX Edit, it is not a firmware update. It was released to fix some issues, mainly with newer Mac models, but it also fixes some minor bugs in Windows systems. The HX Edit update is recommended for all users. From “DOWNLOADS” in the menu above, select HXEdit from the “Choose Software” option, then your OS from the “Choose OS”, click “Go” and read the Release Notes and then download and install the latest version. Hope this help/makes sense.

I think you would be very lucky to find that single one in this forum. Only very occasionally does anyone bother to update a thread, where they may have been desperate to find a solution. If they contacted Customer Support, and solved the problem, it would be nice to know how, just for all the other "Me too" posters. I think that a lot of the time it might be due to sheer embarrassment, after having kicked up a fuss about something that then, ultimately, could turn out to be user error. Having said that, there are always going to be lots of "update bricked my Helix" posts, of which, many really are self inflicted, but it's very nice when some one actually takes time to post a "thank you". I always give those folks an upvote. Otherwise it can feel as if you are banging your head against a brick wall.

You might also like to check out the unofficial guide to Helix - full of very useful info for new users. https://helixhelp.com Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Ideally you should go to the DOWNLOADS section of the Menu above, and from under Hardware select your LT, from Software select HX Edit, the from OS, select Windows then, click "GO". From the next page you can download the latest version of HX Edit for your computer. Install, HX Edit, which should also install the drivers necessary for your computer. When completed, restart your computer and connect your LT via USB and launch HX Edit which should connect to your hardware. When it detects your Helix it should then inform you that a new firmware update is available and then take you through the process of updating the firmware. You should only require the Line 6 Updater if you have suffered a failure to install correctly - above all - DO NOT PANIC! Should that happen go to this link and follow the instructions TO THE LETTER (other than it was written for v3.50) any references to version number need to be the most recent. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Yes, simply select Windows 10, then click “Go”. On the next page you can see that Windows 11 is listed in the compatible versions. Ideally it should list Window 10 and above, similarly the Mac OS is a mess too. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Just do it! i don’t know how you could have FOMO! What you could you possibly be missing out on? Every firmware update fixes bugs and adds extra features. New stuff is added all the time, never taken away. Follow the instructions for how to update and away you go. Have fun! Hope this helps/makes sense.

TGP - that’s your best chance.

Interesting that you think Digital Igloo would reply to a comment that's almost 6 years old? Even though he is the man who really could answer your question. PLEASE NOTE: There are no Line staff here and only very occasionally do they visit these forums - See the “sticky comment” in the black banner stripe at the top of this page entitled “Welcome to the Line 6 forums” This link is where you need to go to have any hope of it been seen by anyone from Line 6: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting any new ideas, please do a search to see if it's already been listed. Multiple requests for the same thing will thin out the votes. Also, post your ideas one at a time. Many users don’t vote for combined suggestions. You should use this thread to let other users know what your suggestions are, with links to IdeaScale, so they can vote on it if they wish. https://line6.com/support/topic/14497-helix-ideascale-community-submissions/ Hope this helps/makes sense.

Ahh! Here ya go! I don’t have a HXFX, so I have consulted the Owner’s Manual for that unit. On pages 37 and 38 > “Setting Path B’s Output” it explains that you cannot do it the way I did it, (there must be good reasons for this!). Your only option is to highlight the mixer block, which you can then assign the output to the Send 1/2 sockets, which is no good for you because the sends are already in use. It does allow you to select the mix block and then pan Path 1A & 1B hard left and right. If you have configured the FX Loops correctly then one path will carry the Marshall return signal and the other should contain only the Rectifier audio. If this doesn’t happen, then I am at a loss for any other suggestions.

It’s a Kinda Magic! Simply highlight the merge block and drag it down to path 1B then assign the output as required.

Possibly about the same amount of time he takes to respond. :)

EDITED Hi, I think you misunderstand - what is shown in my screenshot is a single path split into path 1A and 1B right at the start, and panned A 100% Left and B 100% Right. Then both paths are identical to the point where they exit the unit on 1/4” Output Left and Right. You can ignore the other path, don’t be distracted by that - It maybe that I have added too many blocks, I forgot that you are limited to 9 blocks, this had 12 - Doh!. It’s very simple - the 7 cable method is the same as 4CM but with a duplicate path B. Use only Mono FX Loop 1 (to Marshall) in one path and Mono FX Loop 2 (to Rectifier) on the other. All the other blocks in my example can be substituted for what ever effects you want to use - just note that drives and distortion are ideally placed before the send, and any time based effects after the return. The only other thing I did in the example was assign foot switches to turn the effects on and off and named them in the scribble strips. Now, hook up your HXFX to your computer, open HX Edit and recreate the FX LOOPS and split exactly as shown in my example screenshot. It should take less than 5 minutes and you should be good to go. Don’t overthink this! Then when you know it communicate with your amps, add whatever FX you like to the blocks you have left. If it doesn’t work after creating this patch, then I have nothing left to offer, it is beyond human assistance. You may need an exorcism to clear the demons out of your device. Hope this helps/makes sense. Oh, damn it, try this - it only contains the split, FX loops and outputs - cannot make it anymore simple. 7-CM HXFX-v2.hlx

Hi, Nope, not that much in it, but because I used HX Edit connected to my Helix, it seems that it includes the second DSP path even though there is nothing on it. I considered doing the preset using Helix Native, but that cannot handle the physical Send/Return options. Oh, hum! Anyhow, it is extremely simple- see attached pic below. The guitar in is split into Path 1A and Path 1B, and these are panned 100% Left and Right. Each patch contains identical blocks - wah, distortion, FX Loop, delay and reverb. each path is sent to the 1/4” jack outputs, again panned Left and Right. If this doesn’t work, I’m not sure what to suggest, other than to check that you can get a signal path, split Left and right to pass through the HXFX and out of the L/R 1/4” jacks, with absolutely nothing in the HX paths. Then add various blocks, one by one, until you figure out where it fails. Hope this helps/makes sense. EDIT: I tried downloading the files you had attached, but they are empty.php files. When they are uploaded correctly, they should show the file name of the preset with the .hlx extension.

Follow on from previous post:- Re no patch available. I don't own a HXFX, but I have owned a Helix floor from way back in 2015 and use it almost daily. I got into the studio about an hour ago and powered it up, and went straight to the Templates section of the the setlists - Well, waddayano, there is both a 4 Cable and 7 Cable template provided by Line 6 that is in the Factory Presets. Don't know if these are included in the HXFX factory stuff but It might be worth checking. Anyhow, I decided that for the sake of 5 minutes in HX Edit, I would knock out a 7CM patch for you to load up and check out. See how far you can get with this. 7-CM HXFX-TEST.hlx Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, That’s a rather odd statement to make, as the diagram provided for the way to hook everything up is from the official handbook written by Digital Igloo (Eric Klein - Chief Product Design Architect at Yamaha Guitar Group, Inc. / Line 6 / Ampeg). I believe that he knows how to do this properly, and as the same technique is used by other Helix devices, it is also included in other relevant Owner’s Manuals. There are many others out in the world using the 7CM with no problems whatsoever. Connections remain the same no matter what. As for a 7CM preset not being available on CustomTone, maybe you could attach the preset which you have being trying to use. Do that, and possibly other folks here could look at it for any weirdness in how you have it set up and may have overlooked. Simply saying that the cables are in the correct slot is not enough - there is more going on in the signal path through your HXFX which we are unaware of. It may seem obvious, but in your first post you included a link to a thread discussing how to use HXFX in 7CM, which you say didn’t work for you, then you say using the instructions supplied in the manual also didn’t work for you. Well, it looks to me that the only other option is “user error”. My guess is you need to pan amp A fully right and amp B fully left. Hope this helps/makes sense.