soundog

I had my Variax and battery mothballed for awhile during the pandemic, so read up on the best way to store lithium-ion batteries. A new one is expensive! In summary, most articles advised: "Lithium-ion batteries should be stored at around 40% state of charge (between 30% and 50%). If improper storage occurs, lithium-ion batteries might become unstable." If you don't have a voltmeter to check your charge, you can use the little button and LEDs (if your Variax uses these) on the Variax battery housing to check the charge status. I leave my Variax plugged in until only 2 LEDs are lit, then store the battery.

Line 6 is slowly abandoning software support for the Variax. Sad, but true. Workbench (legacy) no longer works on recent Macs (OSX Catalina, Big Sur, Montery, etc). Workbench HD is safe for now. Monkey no longer works on recent Macs for any Variax guitar. Do you see a trend here? I now an old Macbook running an older operating system around for use with my Variaxes.

Sorry, I just reread the thread .... what I'm experiencing (Variax acoustic with alt tunings) is totally different than the OP's topic (Poly Tuning on Helix with acoustic guitar). That would sound nasty because you could clearly hear the acoustic guitar strings at stage volumes.

I play out with my Variax Acoustic all the time (at least pre-COVID) at coffee house volumes using alternate tunings. Its never been a problem.

Yes, it was here https://line6.com/variax-modeling-guitars/resources/ at one time. The link was even in all the Standard, Shuriken, and JTV manuals. I got it after I bought a used Standard that had butchered presets. (No worries though, I have my old Macbook lying around and probably still have the bundle on there.) *Sigh* I fear you're correct, @cruison2 .... the writings on the mothball wall. The only way I can use Workbench with my trusty old Acoustic 700 is to keep a trusty old Macbook running a trusty old OSX. The same will be true for all Variax guitars in time. As others have said, "its a computer not a guitar." But I say "you can tuna guitar but you can't tuna computer." Update: found my original bundle file on my old 2013 Macbook! Whoopee.

That's absurd. #1) Why does a user have to re-flash their guitar firmware just to get a copy of the factory presets or bundles? #2) Why did Line 6 stop providing it to its customers? #3) Monkey hasn't worked on the Mac since 2019 (Catalina)! Further evidence that Variax support slowly withers away.

Where can I download the Variax Standard factory bundle for use in Workbench HD. I don't want to reflash to get it; just want the bundle/presets. The Variax Standard manual says that you can "download the Variax Standard preset bundle from https://line6.com/ variax-modeling-guitars/resources/" Nope, not there. Where????

Thank you, but this is still confusing. Maybe I skipped breakfast. Let's try this: Assume I have no working battery, instead I only use an XPS A/B to power my Variax. Can I use Workbench HD? Can I perform Flash updates? When should I NOT use the XPS? ------------ update, just found this from 2012 JTV “Variax Reflash and Software Update Instructions” from Line6Tony: "When using the Workbench Interface to update or edit the Variax guitar, ensure that a charged battery is in the guitar and a 1/4" TS mono cable is inserted into the guitar's output jack, or that the stereo TRS cable is plugged into the Variax providing power from the XPS power supply to power on the guitar. So, that's also reassuring.

Sorry to bring this up again, but I'm ready to a bunch of editing using Workbench HD on my Variax Standard. I just want to triple check and clarify: @psarkassian .... you said "In programming or update mode using Monkey or Workbench HD, different circuitry is engaged, current draw is different, and so it's not a problem" [to use TRS and VDI simultaneously]. That puts it to rest, I think... But then you add "TRS and VDI simultaneously,... don't do that." And scary story about fixing a fried board haunts me. I hate the smell of burnt circuitry. So... To triple check ....when using Workbench HD for programming/editing only, is it OK to route Variax VDI to the USB dongle (for Workbench) and TRS from Variax to a Variax power A/B unit (to avoid using a battery), and finally XLR or 1/4" TS from the A/B box to to an amp (for monitoring while customizing)? I'd simply charge a battery, but it takes soooo long, and I always power my Variax via the nifty A/B box. Thanks.

I had similar problems on my 700 Acoustic; the selection would randomly jump back and forth between red (alternate tuning) and green (normal tuning). It turned out to be the switch location (height) being out of whack. I found articles online (can't remember where, but do some searches) on modifying the switch, and was able to get things working again. Haven't had problems since. That may be the case for you, but your problem seems more severe and widespread, so it very well could be electronics rather than mechanical.

Same here. And ... all my monitoring (headphones, multiple speakers) is done through my Apollo/interface.

As you can see, there are lots of options .... you gotta pick the one that fits your workflow and studio set up. A great thing about Helix is how flexible and adaptable it is! I choose the split path method (using a DI and audio interface) only because it works best for my workflow and studio setup. The "built in" USB direct method will get you to the same great sound.

I am using a Samson MDA1 active DI box to split the guitar signal. Then one signal can go (dry) into your DAW, and the other can go into your Helix for processing (and the L/R or mono outputs can go into your monitoring system). The MDA1 is a quality piece of kit, comparable to a Radial DI but more affordable. You can power it via phantom power (dry guitar signal, XLR cable into your Scarlet).

Interesting. It would be a good idea to let Line 6 support know about your findings. Line 6 doesn't read these forums for support info, and rely on users opening a ticket. And few of us (so far) have M1 systems to double check what you're seeing.

+1. Most of the work in getting Helix and Native matched is Native's input level (and making sure you don't overdrive your audio interface if you are using one rather than Helix/Stomp's USB).

Ears or a dB meter.

While Native's DSP code might be identical to that found in your Stomp, keep in mind there may be other variables when comparing the two. Your Stomp is self-contained. However, in your computer there are technical voo-doo things that go on before and after Native's DSP code. Variables are introduced that might even vary between computer systems. Perhaps you could use metering in your setup/DAW to ensure level consistency? If you leave Native input set to 0dB, you could use a gain plug-in to precisely set your input level. Thinking out loud: take the USB input from Stomp (place the gain control before Native for tweaking), and use a clean Stomp preset (no blocks). You could do some "null" experiments. Record a raw guitar track (no Native) from Stomp, invert the phase, and play the duplicate track through Native to see if they cancel. You'll need to ensure the samples are precisely aligned in time.

Are you referring to your earlier thread? At this point, you seem to be one of the most official words on the topic (the Line 6 officials don't participate in this forum to my knowledge). Perhaps you could do some null tests and experiments to put your mind at ease before setting sail. Please share your results, though, because I'm interested in your findings.

I should update this before replying to your questions. I've changed my setup a bit! I now run my guitar into a Samson MDA1 direct box (low cost, excellent quality), which splits the guitar signal. One of those signals goes to the Stomp input, the other (XLR, which also powers the Samson) into Apollo input 1. I take a mono wet signal out of the Stomp into Apollo channel input 2. When tracking guitar, I monitor the wet signal for inspiration (through Apollo headphones, mixed with my DAW output), but record the dry/Apollo 1 guitar signal. @vanb777, this gives a more robust guitar track level that I'm used to and can control; the Stomp USB record level is also too low for my liking (I adjust Native's input level accordingly). And, yeah, I now monitor the guitar with headphones into the Apollo. All my audio ins/outs (and headphones/monitors) are controlled through the Apollo; keeps things more manageable.

For gigging, buying a decent dB meter is a great investment. There are also decent dB meter apps for phones that work OK. Just be sure to measure consistently (speaker volume and meter location) between presets.

Let us know how your experimenting goes. Its challenging to eliminate all variables to get identical sound from a computer/software vs a dedicated piece of hardware, but Line 6 states that the DSP code is the same between Helix and Native, so theoretically you should be able to get identical results. In my case, I'm not going through USB (Stomp) to my computer (Mac). I'm going through an audio interface (Apollo Twin), then into the Mac via Thunderbolt. I split the raw guitar signal with an active direct box; one signal goes into the Stomp and one into the Apollo. I went that route to retain all my audio ins and outs within one interface. Also, I was able to tweak levels (Apollo intput, Native input and output) to get a good Stomp-to-Native match, as well as getting what I consider to be healthier input guitar levels/waveforms in my guitar tracks. While I never took the time to to try for a perfect null test, I'm able to get a final guitar tone that sounds the same (to my tinnitus-riddled ears) through monitors, headphones, or PA.

You should be able to match your tones if you have a decent computer and your USB is going direct into it (no hubs). Have you tried adjusting your input and output levels in Native? That can have a major effect on Native's tone.(Its normal that the dry signal from input 7 look way too low). Also, be certain nothing changed in your Helix preset (IR, fx presets, etc). You might want to start with an empty preset on your Floor and Native first, get levels equal, then add a single block (like an amp), then build from there. Also make sure you are monitoring through the same speakers and system when comparing...

Hats off to you, Fenderflame, for sharing the video!! Hats off to anyone reading this!!

Mac? Windows? DAW? Native version? Etc....

Dang it.