eenymason

Hi fellow variax freaks, I have a conundrum, and wonder if anyone may be in a position to help out in return for some unwanted piezos from Variax 300 and 600 - see piezo details below. *** I enquired at a local (Australian) Line 6 distributor regarding buying a jackplate assembly for a newly purchased second hand vaxplant, which has the original variax 300 jackplate assembly, (which requires surgical precision to get the little rubber boot provided to cover the RJ45 connection), and I figure since I already have two other vaxplants, I may as well buy two, so I have a spare. I already bought two, (around three years ago), for less than $30AUD each, though as it turned out, (legacy version no longer available), they were the bass versions, which are interchangable with the 300-700 series (with a little chisel handiwork). See link.. http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/218353-Line-6-50-04-0181-4 Yesterday, the local supplier quoted me $100 each, and they would be for the JTV69 model version - apparently also interchangable....(?) So, I'm a little old fashioned, in so much as I'm not really that interested in lining people's pockets in arbitrary ways, such as this kind of price hike would suggest is occurring, and it would appear I can't order from Full Compass, cos I don't reside in the requisite 50-odd states.... So, it brings me to this random, weirdo request for someone who may may fancy some 2nd hand L R Baggs piezos (14 in total - (new RRP circa $13US each - http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/114557-Line-6-11-11-0001 ), worth around a hunjee in anyone's terms, in exchange for acquiring a couple of the jackplate assemblies, and sending them to me in Australia. I'm happy to despatch first, via registered post, and send you an email showing tracking information. In fact, I have other hardware, eg unused variax 300/600 bits I could throw into the equation also, just to inspire some mutually satisfying trans-global weirdness. ***I upgraded to Ghosts while doing transplants, and have unwanted (but still fully functioning when removed), L R Baggs piezos - a total of 14, including 2 brand new, unused, that I bought as spares. I initially thought that two piezos were failing in a second hand 300 that I bought, and upon installing the new graphtechs, while I did a transplant, the problem disappeared for a short while, but soon returned. The first E and B piezos take some time (15 minutes) to wake up, after the variax is plugged in. They then become fully operational, and because the same problem still exists, it must be a problem with the PCB, not the piezos. I get around it, by plugging it in, while I continue my setup at a gig, and as such is a non-issue. Yours, in weirdness, Ian.

Definitely re-assess the battery pack - maybe there's corrosion somewhere if it doesn't pass the current anymore? I've tried powering with a 9v, and unless it's an expensive Alkaline, they just don't have the oomph. Even Alkalines fade pretty quick, as would a rechargable 9v. I recently bought a second hand 300 transplant and the guy said the battery pack doesn't power it up anymore. I anticipated some problem on the PCB, or a connection problem, but I tried with my battery pack from the 600 I have, and voila! You can buy the original Line 6 one for good bucks online at Fullcompass, or you can get generic ones from Fleabay at a fraction of the price.

Are there any pics of the actual guts in the Standard? I'm assuming they must be a lot smaller than the 300-700s Nice job chainsawdave

:lol: "Out of respect for Line 6...", who won't make a lefty for all the lefties out there!!!!! If they made a Variax that totally suited my tastes/preferences, I woudn't feel the need to vaxplant into a Strat clone, and that's choice, not genetics... I don't feel the need to be apologetic to anyone about that. Don't concern yourself with feelings around here, it's a business-model. Apart from the trolls of course! :rolleyes:

As far as I know, (and I sure as hell don't know everything), in order to set up a G-bender, AND a B-bender simultaneously, the Helix would need to have access to data from each string separately, and apply a pitch shift value separately to each string. Maybe it IS possible down the line, but I don't think it is now? Although you could kind of do this by another method - I have a smart harmoniser setup on my HD500 for the solo in "Tonight's the Night" by Rod Stewart (yeh, I know :rolleyes: )... I have to use toe down/heel down on the expression pedal to use different intervals, as the solo is over (I think) A and D, and I need to change the pitch interval to reflect that. By incorporating single note bends, and changing between intervals, it does allow for different pitch shift properties on the "harmonised" string. I can't remember the exact details - maybe changes from maj 3 to 4th (as the A to D movement suggests). By playing country style pedal steel lines, and using this method, it would be a limited, poor country cousin, bet hey...... maybe better than nothing

Oh, like this?

And how is the expression pedal gonna pick up on which string is which? Am I missing something? Even if this were possible, I don't know how it would be easier/better than just learning string bending techniques on the actual guitar, unless of course if yer a settin down, playin, kinda guy... I.M.O.

Pedal steel bends are all about double stops, with one or both notes moving half or full stops. It's pretty much ALL technique, with very little occurrence of both notes changing in the same direction and same amount of movement. This can be emulated with the fingers, but does take time and effort... I'd check youtube for country licks by people like Redd Volkaert, and oodles of other really tasty pickers. Also, tonally, Lap and Pedal Steels are different beasts to guitars, but that's another story. Is it me, or are people seeming to be lazy with all this new gadget stuff, wanting IT to do all the work for 'em - just add autotune already...FFS! :rolleyes:

If you're in it for the "upgrade," there's lots of debate already happened on the pros and cons of the JTVs from many angles - some prefer the original modelling, some prefer the newer, etc, etc... There is distinctly a gap in connectivity with the (now) older Pod HDs (300-500), and the later variaxes - the 500X, and Helix, are aimed at the JTV/Standard user. I can't remember exactly - I think JTV/Standard can't connect to Workbench HD via Pod HD 300-500. Not sure about PodHD... This MAY be a non issue, if the USB connection thingy actually comes with the purchase of a new JTV/Standard. You best search the forums more for info on that, as Line 6 aren't exactly shouting out information regarding their deficiencies, (read, inexplicable lines drawn in the sand), like this, from the rooftops... Clearly one of the things the JTVs have over the legacy models (300-700), is the ability to use magnetic pickups and modelling simultaneously. I thought having stereo capability on the HD500 was a game changer, but surprisingly, I rarely use it, so maybe this feature would actually be rarely used by me also, if I owned a newer variax. If you just want another variax, (upgraded features of the JTV/Standard aside), maybe look into a second hand 700, or even transplanting the guts of a cheaper 2nd hand one (300/500/600) into your ideal guitar style clone - I'm guessing Strat, or pointy 80's Floyd Rose type thing. If you're planning to upgrade to Helix (even though at this stage even IT doesn't FULLY support complete connectivity), apparently it WILL happen one day, so by all means, dive in! Sorry, I clearly can't help with the JTV89/700 comparison, but I bet there ARE users who have both on here... Oh, and as an aside, regarding connecting your variax outputs from both jack, and VDI simultaneously, APPARENTLY it's allegedly a no-no.... Once again, this piece of information is to be found in discussions herewithin, but I've NEVER seen anything formally put into print format by the powers that be at Line 6, to inform the end user of it. Apparently you risk frying a component onboard one of the PCBs. I have done it with great ignorant abandon, and regularity for around 18 months, without blowing up onstage - not even once! I don't doubt that it HAS happened to some variax users, but I HAVE NOW TOLD YOU - don't do it.

I don't imagine you would be able to run both variax, and variax bass electronics in the one guitar. Variax bass relies on standard bass strings to operate within it's designed frequency range. 3) is your choice: You could install the variax electronics into your standard guitar, and use Workbench to create a patch with every string one octave down. It would most likely be useless for playing chords, but it may be acceptable for a simple bass line to loop. You would most likely need a separate output for variax - that is to say, keep the magnetic pickup output and variax output separate. There has been info on these forums about noise/electrical problems by trying to run them through the same output. The newer (JTV and Standard), variaxes have both magnetic, and modelling through the same output. The original variaxes didn't have magnetic pickups, and so it wasn't until variax users tried to integrate variax electronics into their normal guitars, that the issue regarding electronic interference/noise was discovered. I think some may people may have been successful in sorting out the problem, but if you want the bass signal to go to another piece of equipment to be sampled/looped anyway, then I'd personally opt for keeping it simple, and noise free. Maybe someone else could chime in with more information, or even links regarding integrating both piezos, and magnetic pickups to the same output? Google "variax transplant" for pictures and information showing layout, etc - it depends on what you want to install it in, and to a lesser extent, which model variax you are transplanting from. I have done so with both a 300 and a 600, which have the electronics in a "coffin case". I have removed the electronics from the case each time, because I have installed them into Strat copies, and I wanted to minimise how much I had to route the body in order to fit the electronics in. I don't have magnetic pickups at all, although I do intend to try another transplant at some time, and have magnetic pickups installed as well. I haven't decided yet - I may wait until I source a reasonably priced JTV or Standard, in order to do this.... Actually, there is another choice ( http://www.rackvax.com/ ) these are variax electronics installed into a box, and you need a roland type synth pickup on your guitar, and GK13 pin connector to connect to the rackvax. Fender make a "Roland ready strat"with everything installed, as do some other brands... Good luck!

The thing is, it's as much to do with intonation, and playing style, and the fact that the guitar is fundamentally an imperfect instrument (tuning wise). If I couldn't fix something, I'd simply stress less about it...

Wow, what a fundamentalist...... Everybody is tuning their instrument wrong! FFS.... If everybody else is tuning their guitar by plucking a string and letting it ring out, and he's the only one who's constantly plucking it to tune up, then who's going to sound out of tune to everbody else? Personally, I don't play staccato ad infinitum, and I don't know any one who does. It'd be pretty boring after a while. I play with lots of dynamics, and therefore there goes the concept of tuning how you play - just relax about the fact that the guitar, and it's player is imperfect tuning wise, and enjoy the show. Otherwise, you may as well stay at home, and listen to a CD of midi music on your own.

I'm just trying to have a laugh at an absurd situation... Looks like I'll be signing up to some dang 3rd party photo dumpster site, and having to accept that I'll be getting ever more spam emails into the future.

Cheers - I had been contemplating a 3rd party photo upload site, but in reality I'd never actually make use of it outside these here walls. The fact is it used to be doable on this site, and now appears it is not..... Must be a cost cutting measure, now that Yamaha have taken ownership, and their number-crunchers are looking for ways to save a buck. Rolls eyes. There - I've saved money on not using an emoticon.

Thanks guys - this is exactly what I'm referring to - I have used this feature numerous times before, and as you can see from the cropped screenshot I just took, it clearly states it's size limit. Luckily the screenshot is within the limit, otherwise I couldn't attach it for your discerning gaze! Surely I'm not the only one that's being restricted in file size? Has anyone else actually tried this process recently - I can see you all know HOW to do it?

Yes, as I originally stated, I've uploaded images before using this process - now there's a 27kb file size limit. I may not be the brightest in the class, but please, give me SOME credence... So.... am I still missing something here?

It seems no-one knows.... Or if they do, they're keeping quiet.... Anyone? Line 6 staff? If I search "upload images", I get no useful info.....

Well not really that much less - see comments below this vid:

Hi guys, I want to upload an image or two of my new bargain purchase - a Tele clone with a vaxplant already done. Compared with my own vaxplants into Strat clones, this is a pretty schmick job. I won't actually pick it up til this Sunday (Sydney time), but I have a couple of images i got from the fleabay sale. It seems I can only upload up to 27kb file size - what the?? Edit: I've uploaded images here before, so I obviously missed it - what changed?

Thanks for your reply - however you must have missed my questions at the end... My questions are, would replacing the PCB fix this problem, and if so, would buying a replacement from Full Compass come to me already flashed, ready for me to simply replace it?

This is interesting. I asked about this same type of problem on a second hand Variax 300 I bought around 2-3 years ago, and really didn't receive much in the way of relevant/possible reasons for the symptoms I was experienceing. I experienced soon after buying it, the first E and B strings would not be audible through the Pod HD500, although the strings could be tuned using the onboard tuner. I have since realised this odd phenomenon could be explained by the vibrations of those two strings being picked up by the G (and maybe other) piezos. After some time being plugged in, (maybe 30 minutes or so), they would begin operating normally. I thought the piezos must be dodgy, so replaced the lot with Graphtech Ghosts. This fixed the problem (or so I thought), for a while..... I now still have the need to plug it in at the start of setting up for a gig, and by the time I'm ready to play, so is the variax. My questions are, would replacing the PCB fix this problem, and if so, would buying a replacement from Full Compass come to me already flashed, ready for me to simply replace it?

The age old saga of the dreaded..............gap. There is no perfectly seamless way to switch "instantaneously" from one preset tuning to another, regardless of whether it's changing presets in the HD500 patches, (by pressing a footswitch), or whether you turn the knob, or flick the pickup selector switch on the variax. As a musician, you should/will have the skill to anticipate when the change needs to happen. Your best bet (for speed), is to have the two variax patches adjacent to each other in one of the two "custom" banks on the variax, and simply flick the pickup selector. You won't get quicker than that. I have many songs which rely on two (and sometimes more) patches, and I'm quite accepting of the fact that the HD500 has this limitation. As well as changing guitar type/tuning on the variax, usually a different amp type/setting etc is required, so two patches for me is usually the go. Sometimes during a solo, I just change guitar/pickup type for different tone/dynamic output, using the pickup selector. Then at the end of the solo, I'll press the patch switch on the HD500 again to reset to the pre-programmed guitar setting, as often it's somewhere else on the variax dial, and I'm sure as hell not searching for it in an instant. Sure it'd be amazing if the gap wasn't there, but if that's what you NEED in your life, save your pay, upgrade to the Helix, and embrace "snapshots".

Did Eric ever take Boston to court over this one?

At this point, I'd just reiterate bjnette's comment about drive/distortion. You haven't mentioned your musical style, but I'm reading between the lines, and taking a gander at the headstock style of your guitar, and guessing it'd hard rock/metal. If you listen closely to AC/DC, and other big bands of that genre, the guitarists' sounds are more about attitude than overdrive. Over the years I've leaned FAR more to the clean tone side of things, (admittedly I'm more into blues these days, but really digging on the 40's/50's dirty low wattage amp sound from the lead guitarists of the time), and have begun to really appreciate the dynamics from the volume control on the guitar, and (probably more importantly), from how much you dig in with the pick. The Young brothers are the perfect example of how to get it right (regardless of your musical taste), with the right amounts of clean, grunt, space, and groove. It took me many years to understand this, because nobody told me, and I figured it out myself. Don't beat yourself up for not knowing it already. I dunno who said it first, but your tone definitely starts in the fingers.

It's as much to do with the guitar choice as the distortion/reverb/amp. You have provided no info on what guitar/amp you use. I would say there is no "distortion" pedal used, though there could be a boost pedal in front of the amp, and most likely the reverb is added at the mixing stage of this recording, so I would add in reverb "to taste" in the fx loop. If you were to choose an amp in the HD to give amp tone, the Jazz Rivet (if you have the vintage model pack) would be good, or if not, the Gibtone with the drive down low. I also like the Tweed B-man for just slightly pushed Jazzy/bluesy tones. You'll just have to pick the neck pickup of whatever guitar you have, and dial in amp eq from there. I use a variax through the HD500, and I find different amp models respond differently to different guitar models - eg, I really like the Fender type amps for lighter crunch sounds using the Les Paul model, but not with many other guitar models.