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anek

Usb Port On Pedal (pod Hd 500) Now Broken

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    went to plug my usb cable into my well taken care of pod hd 500, and one of the end in there for the wire, is broken. this is my first issue with it, and would like to know if anyone else has had this problem, there seems to be something missing from that hole. Next question would be, what can I do about it. not going to be able to edit tones till i get it fixed.

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Didn't have this issue (thanks God).You can sent it for repair to the shop you bought it...Alternatively, you can edit the fx and parameters on the hd hardware, especially if you are not using the usb for recording.

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I suggest you take your HD500 in to an authorized Line 6 service centre:

http://line6.com/service_centers/

 

Hopefully it is still under warranty. This was a surprisingly expensive non-warranty repair for me (same thing happened) but was not something I felt comfortable attempting to do myself. In most cases it is not a simple matter of replacing the jack/connector; there is also an internal chip that usually needs replacement.

 

While the fix can be expensive, the device is much less useful without a working usb connection.The problem is not just using the editor or not being able to record directly, it also means you can no longer update firmware or even import new presets.

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(just my experience, not sure if it was supposed to be running in fast forward.)

the video was nice, it was a racecar ride through ripping an hd500 apart and replacing the port and chip.  that being said, after watching whole thing, i am now motion sick, next time a caveat would be a nice addition to the link.

 

on a side note, i personally like to watch the whole thing in real time, so it might just be my pc being mental today causing it to be running fast.

 

cheers.

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This seems to be a very common problem as many others have posted the same thing in many forums....Line 6 needs to acknowledge the problem and offer a replacement motherboard to its customers instead of telling them to have the usb port replaced at their own expense after one year of ownership...I am currently awaiting a response form Line 6 to this regard....

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yeah its so common you saw less than 10 posted in an internet forum dedicated to problems.

of the 10,000+ they've probably sold.

:rolleyes:

 

This seems to be a very common problem as many others have posted the same thing in many forums....Line 6 needs to acknowledge the problem and offer a replacement motherboard to its customers instead of telling them to have the usb port replaced at their own expense after one year of ownership...I am currently awaiting a response form Line 6 to this regard....

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THAT'S BS Zap. I know of over 20 people this has happened to including me. L6 knows this happens and they couldn't care less. This is the only usb port that has ever broken on me. So roll your eyes somewhere else.  im not drinkin the Kool-Aid. 

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oh wow you've doubled my estimate... it surely must be a massive conspiracy by line6 to deploy defective usb ports throughout the universe.

 

i'm sure that none of them happened because of someone stepping on a cable or something... surely not a single one.

:rolleyes:

 

it's perfectly fine to be unhappy because it happened to you....

but to project it out into the world as some sort of epidemic issue is flat wrong.

have you tried contacting them... pickup the phone... there may have been a problem batch and they may be willing to help you.

to my knowledge that's not the case, i'm merely pointing out that the issue isn't as widespread as you would have the world believe.

 

 

THAT'S BS Zap. I know of over 20 people this has happened to including me. L6 knows this happens and they couldn't care less. This is the only usb port that has ever broken on me. So roll your eyes somewhere else.  im not drinkin the Kool-Aid. 

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I picked up the phone, and they gave me a number to a service centre who told me they want to charge me for the repair, because it is "broken" and not malfunctioning. They are saying because the usb port is broken it is not a warranty issue...As mentioned in the reply, how many people do you know that have ever broken a USB port on any other electronic device, ever. I plugged mine in three times and it happened, give me a break..no pun intended..

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Yes sounds about right..lol...Has anyone tried to get a warranty replacement motherboard from Line 6, instead of having to have the usb port and usb controller chip replaced...? Thx...

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If you seriously have this issue, I'd encourage you to call them and speak to support, they can help you.

The issue clearly can and has happened. They are aware of it, and they can do things to help you.

(perhaps even outside of the warranty length)

 

I'd suggest that Sheaky specifically call the support number and ask to speak to the supervisor.

since you had talked to support previously, they should have your history.

 

All i was saying previously is that it is not a constant or recall level occurrence.

 

I picked up the phone, and they gave me a number to a service centre who told me they want to charge me for the repair, because it is "broken" and not malfunctioning. They are saying because the usb port is broken it is not a warranty issue...As mentioned in the reply, how many people do you know that have ever broken a USB port on any other electronic device, ever. I plugged mine in three times and it happened, give me a break..no pun intended..

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Ok RealZap, I will have to try and call again and maybe elevate my issue to the supervisor....I did send a message in to the support forum via computer, but I haven't received a final reply about it yet...Thanks... :rolleyes:

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Hi everyone,

 

could someone told me, if the change of a usb controller CY7C68013A need some programming? Or, is it only replacing of the chip?

I can do it myself, but I need to know it. People in authorised service in Czech Republic dont know about that nothing.

 

 

Thanks a lot for answer!

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Hi everyone,
 
could someone told me, if the change of a usb controller CY7C68013A need some programming? Or, is it only replacing of the chip?
I can do it myself, but I need to know it. People in authorised service in Czech Republic dont know about that nothing.
 
 
Thanks a lot for answer!

 

 

Maybe you can give the guy who made that video a shout on youtube, he might be able to tell you if the chip needs something special after installing it.

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I tried replacing my POD's broken USB a few weeks ago and it failed.

Unless you absolutely know how to solder, I strongly suggest handing into a repair center to do the job. I know I should of.

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I was in another thread on the JTV part of the forum, but it relates as much here, and I never got a response to my general question --

 

I have never (knock wood) had the usb troubles that have been reported here that often become the problems with updates, etc., but I try to avoid hooking it up very often, with all the reported problems and also the reported issues with the usb jack on the HD500X. I am extremely mindful of it when using it. Since they made the Workbench again functional using the HD500(X) & JTV's, I have been hooking up more to do that -- using the dongle/interface worked, but the guitar sounds different via the Guitar In versus the DVI, which is how I use it, so throws off my tweaking... I've been much happier using WB via the HD500X & VDI. I do still tend to edit the HD500X patches directly on the unit. I hookup & use the software to archive, but not really to do tweaking of the HD, as even when tweaking the JTV's with WB, they sound different when tweaking versus when you upload the patch to the JTV -- a subtle change between the tweak version and the uploaded version -- I find that with the HD editing as well... I never feel I hear the final outcome of either the JTV or HD tweak until I unhook from the PC & reboot the HD & JTV...

 

I had one problem with a firmware update (a couple of FW versions back - don't remember which). I have 2 JTV's a 59 & a 69S. I updated my 59, and it went fine, then I disconnected and rebooted the HD500X with the 69S, did the FW update and it didn't take -- had no output from the guitar - mags or models... Kept from panicking, and tried it again, this time it took. I have no idea why one time it did and the other it didn't. No reported usb communications errors, no difference other than the JTV model. I have never felt easy about hooking up to the PC, and yet I hear of folks where they normally operate hooked up.... Wonder if they do this while gigging? That could explain the incidence of broken usb jacks...

 

I never do a FW update on either the JTV's or the HD500X if I have some gigs coming up in the very near future, as I want time to deal with it if it goes south on me. I usually want to do when I have a weekend off, as you need to keep a clear, calm head when working through a problem. I've gotten very comfortable with tweaking HD settings on the unit itself.

 

If I recall correctly, in earlier versions of the POD family -- like the XTL & X3L - I've had both, you had the choice of using the USB or MIDI for FW updates, Workbench, and the POD editing software. I notice they still use MIDI for updating the DT amps, I believe. Have we lost that ability with the HD line? The unit still has MIDI In and Out, but all discussion of it is for MIDI linking to other devices - Out to amps with MIDI capabilities, In from DAW etc., but no mention of program or FW use that I've found anywhere. I have a midi controller hooked to an external MIDI module on my PC that could be used if I were to break the HD500X usb jack.... But if that usb jack is the only way in or out to program or archive the patches, we all have to treat it with kid gloves... I can find no mention of MIDI in that use with the HD line... If I'm missing where the info is, someone please direct me there.

 

Dave

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I was in another thread on the JTV part of the forum, but it relates as much here, and I never got a response to my general question --

 

I have never (knock wood) had the usb troubles that have been reported here that often become the problems with updates, etc., but I try to avoid hooking it up very often, with all the reported problems and also the reported issues with the usb jack on the HD500X. I am extremely mindful of it when using it. Since they made the Workbench again functional using the HD500(X) & JTV's, I have been hooking up more to do that -- using the dongle/interface worked, but the guitar sounds different via the Guitar In versus the DVI, which is how I use it, so throws off my tweaking... I've been much happier using WB via the HD500X & VDI. I do still tend to edit the HD500X patches directly on the unit. I hookup & use the software to archive, but not really to do tweaking of the HD, as even when tweaking the JTV's with WB, they sound different when tweaking versus when you upload the patch to the JTV -- a subtle change between the tweak version and the uploaded version -- I find that with the HD editing as well... I never feel I hear the final outcome of either the JTV or HD tweak until I unhook from the PC & reboot the HD & JTV...

 

I had one problem with a firmware update (a couple of FW versions back - don't remember which). I have 2 JTV's a 59 & a 69S. I updated my 59, and it went fine, then I disconnected and rebooted the HD500X with the 69S, did the FW update and it didn't take -- had no output from the guitar - mags or models... Kept from panicking, and tried it again, this time it took. I have no idea why one time it did and the other it didn't. No reported usb communications errors, no difference other than the JTV model. I have never felt easy about hooking up to the PC, and yet I hear of folks where they normally operate hooked up.... Wonder if they do this while gigging? That could explain the incidence of broken usb jacks...

 

I never do a FW update on either the JTV's or the HD500X if I have some gigs coming up in the very near future, as I want time to deal with it if it goes south on me. I usually want to do when I have a weekend off, as you need to keep a clear, calm head when working through a problem. I've gotten very comfortable with tweaking HD settings on the unit itself.

 

If I recall correctly, in earlier versions of the POD family -- like the XTL & X3L - I've had both, you had the choice of using the USB or MIDI for FW updates, Workbench, and the POD editing software. I notice they still use MIDI for updating the DT amps, I believe. Have we lost that ability with the HD line? The unit still has MIDI In and Out, but all discussion of it is for MIDI linking to other devices - Out to amps with MIDI capabilities, In from DAW etc., but no mention of program or FW use that I've found anywhere. I have a midi controller hooked to an external MIDI module on my PC that could be used if I were to break the HD500X usb jack.... But if that usb jack is the only way in or out to program or archive the patches, we all have to treat it with kid gloves... I can find no mention of MIDI in that use with the HD line... If I'm missing where the info is, someone please direct me there.

 

Dave

 

It's safe to say people will get a firmware error once in a blue moon even if it's in good working condition. 

 

I just recommend taking the time to slide in the usb cable as straight as you can to prevent any type of damage to the plastic on the USB port.

If you do that, you should be fine.

 

 

As for MIDI capabilities, it is all via MIDI cables. There is no MIDI through USB.

 

 

For me, the USB is functional enough to do stuff on, the only problem I'm running into is abrupt halting during using the POD with a DAW, and it eventually freezes my computer because my computer doesn't like the POD's driver too much.

 

Luckily I can run SPDIF into my old Audio Interface for now.

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there should be no need to replace the uart chip if only a pin or the middle plastic is broken on the usb, which is a mechanical problem.

in theory, the usb 5v line is shortproof (regulated current source, 500mA), while the data and clock lines are protected by resistors. unless L6 chose to not follow the general specs).

desoldering the jack is not as easy as it may look in the video. the copper ground pads are extensive, their supply lines dissipate the heat from the soldering iron all over the mainboard. it usually takes an additional hot air soldering iron to get the pins anywhere near the temperature where the solder will start to flow, especially on 2 sided or multilayered boards.

i would suggest to cut and disconnect the inner 2 pins at the rear of the jack, route the 4 signals (5 incl. shield) to a small fixed grid style board, glue that to the inside of the cabinet, then cut the plug from a regular female usb cable (from an old printer maybe) and solder the ends to the grid board. you should use a meter to figure which cable goes where.

make sure to use  a strain relief clamp.

easy fix giving you an external usb extension.

apply precautions like unplugging and statics protection

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there should be no need to replace the uart chip if only a pin or the middle plastic is broken on the usb, which is a mechanical problem.

in theory, the usb 5v line is shortproof (regulated current source, 500mA), while the data and clock lines are protected by resistors. unless L6 chose to not follow the general specs).

desoldering the jack is not as easy as it may look in the video. the copper ground pads are extensive, their supply lines dissipate the heat from the soldering iron all over the mainboard. it usually takes an additional hot air soldering iron to get the pins anywhere near the temperature where the solder will start to flow, especially on 2 sided or multilayered boards.

i would suggest to cut and disconnect the inner 2 pins at the rear of the jack, route the 4 signals (5 incl. shield) to a small fixed grid style board, glue that to the inside of the cabinet, then cut the plug from a regular female usb cable (from an old printer maybe) and solder the ends to the grid board. you should use a meter to figure which cable goes where.

make sure to use  a strain relief clamp.

easy fix giving you an external usb extension.

apply precautions like unplugging and statics protection

 

Pretty good post panaman!! Good Idea on the fix.

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This happened to me as well. All I did was plug in the USB cable slightly off-center and "snap", the black plastic center piece fell out.I was able to replace the connector without any issues at all, but I'm used to soldering and taking things apart (MSEE degree - old school, back when we actually touched circuits). I removed the PCB to get access to the top and bottom layers and had to suck solder off both sides of the old thru-hole USB connector to get it out without tearing up any traces. You don't need to replace the USB chip if all that's broken is the connector. A great USB connector replacement can be bought here from Mouser. In case the link doesn't work, the Mouser part # is 649-61729-1011BLF. They cost less than $1 USD each.

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This happened to me as well. All I did was plug in the USB cable slightly off-center and "snap", the black plastic center piece fell out.I was able to replace the connector without any issues at all, but I'm used to soldering and taking things apart (MSEE degree - old school, back when we actually touched circuits). I removed the PCB to get access to the top and bottom layers and had to suck solder off both sides of the old thru-hole USB connector to get it out without tearing up any traces. You don't need to replace the USB chip if all that's broken is the connector. A great USB connector replacement can be bought here from Mouser. In case the link doesn't work, the Mouser part # is 649-61729-1011BLF. They cost less than $1 USD each.

 

Good post. It would be nice to know a durable port replacement. The plastic they use on the POD's USB ports obviously aren't the strongest.

 

The best type of plastic is the one that's hard but flexible for durability.

 

Make sure to take the time to plug in the usb cable as straight and nicely as you guys can when connecting to the POD to ever avoid this. I know the plastic isn't THAT fragile, but that's why this happens in the first place.

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Make sure to take the time to plug in the usb cable as straight and nicely as you guys can when connecting to the POD to ever avoid this. I know the plastic isn't THAT fragile, but that's why this happens in the first place.

 

Yeah, any of these "small connectors" are fragile, treat them with a gingerly touch unless you want issues and that's not even fool proof. If they made that "lollipop" (that breaks) which locates the usb connection on the pod with a gradual taper, it may have helped relieve the stress on it when one inserts it at an angle thus keeping it from breaking off.

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After reading all these USB trouble posts I think I have a solution, at least for those that use a pedal board of some kind.  I have mine in a hard case so this works fine for me.  Get a 6" USB extender, link below, and mount it on your board.  By firmly attaching the female end to your board (zip ties, cable mounts, clamps) you basically eliminate the constant connecting/disconnecting at the unit.  Instead you just plug the extender into the POD one time and from then on you plug into the extender instead.  The extender remains permanently connected to the POD and you no longer run the risk of damaging the POD by pulling on the connector.  Easy preventive measure for a few bucks.  Granted, we shouldn't have to do that in a perfect world but WTF? 

28070b.jpg

 

http://www.cablestogo.com/product/28070

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I just leave my USB cable always plugged into my Pod.  I unplug it from my laptop at that end when I'm not using the USB.  My pod is down on the floor under my desk so it's a PIA to get down there to plug in the USB anyway.  It's blind plugging that breaks the USB  connector.  It seems to be more fragile than most.

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I just leave my USB cable always plugged into my Pod.  I unplug it from my laptop at that end when I'm not using the USB.  My pod is down on the floor under my desk so it's a PIA to get down there to plug in the USB anyway.  It's blind plugging that breaks the USB  connector.  It seems to be more fragile than most.

 

Agreed. Like I said, take the time to look at the back and plug it in, do not do a felt plug in or anything like that.

 

The USB port plastic piece isn't the thickest thing in the world so it's susceptible to breaking if you plug it in incorrectly time after time, it'll break the plastic.

 

I have no clue how abused mine was before I got it used, but even then, just be cautious regardless.

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The extender remains permanently connected to the POD and you no longer run the risk of damaging the POD by pulling on the connector.  Easy preventive measure for a few bucks.  Granted, we shouldn't have to do that in a perfect world but WTF? 

 

When I first got my HD500 I was thinking about taking a strategically placed bead of silicone and gluing one of those pigtails in there to avoid the worn out port syndrome. Thought about it a bit and just decided I didn't need to since I was going be the only one using it and wasn't going to move it around much. If it was going to be used and abused I would have used clear silicone sealer to glue that thing. plus the silicone would keep out dirt etc, etc.

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The usb adaptor idea is in the right direction - if they made a right angled version it could be hot glued in place.

 

I finally picked up a HD Bean so I can that usb always in for tone working then transfer over to the HD500 if needed. My pups like to run all over things so I've been trying to keep the $$ of the floor in common chaos areas :)

 

-B

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I suggest you take your HD500 in to an authorized Line 6 service centre:

http://line6.com/service_centers/

 

Hopefully it is still under warranty. This was a surprisingly expensive non-warranty repair for me (same thing happened) but was not something I felt comfortable attempting to do myself. In most cases it is not a simple matter of replacing the jack/connector; there is also an internal chip that usually needs replacement.

 

While the fix can be expensive, the device is much less useful without a working usb connection.The problem is not just using the editor or not being able to record directly, it also means you can no longer update firmware or even import new presets.

Friends could tell me what the supplier of this USB controller chip, I find on the internet and the video that follows this down.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlY3sV4UXk4&feature=youtu.be

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Hi licoLFC, the YouTube video you linked to won't play. It just says just says "This video is private".

Just in case my experience is useful to anyone, I've just tried (and failed) to repair the USB interface on my son's PODHD500.

 

His PC started saying "USB device not recognised" and he saw the USB port on the pod was damaged, so I replaced that but it didn't make any difference.  (That was pretty much as I expected since the PC was able to connect and see there was a USB device present but it wasn't able to identify what it was.)

 

Having done some searching online, he ordered a USB chip from a supplier on eBay and asked me if I would fit it.  It's a CY7C68013A-56PVXC.  I changed the chip but found that the pod would not now start up.  It got stuck in a cycle of constantly rebooting, just flashing up the "Line 6" splash screen over and over.

 

I removed the new chip and tried repowering with no chip in place.  That gave the same behaviour of constantly rebooting.

 

Finally I soldered the original chip back in and now the pod starts up as normal, but of course the USB interface is still not working.

 

I don't know why it didn't work but there are various possibilities.  It may be that my soldering wasn't flawless.  It could be that the chip was faulty or not as labelled.  It could be that the new chip needed programming to give it an identity as a PODHD500 but I have no idea how to do so.

 

I'm not sure if any of that will be useful info but having desoldered and resoldered these tiny 56-pin chips twice over, I think I'm done experimenting.  If he wants it repaired, I think it'll have to go to a service centre who will presumably just replace the whole board.

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Hi licoLFC, the YouTube video you linked to won't play. It just says just says "This video is private".

 

Just in case my experience is useful to anyone, I've just tried (and failed) to repair the USB interface on my son's PODHD500.

 

His PC started saying "USB device not recognised" and he saw the USB port on the pod was damaged, so I replaced that but it didn't make any difference.  (That was pretty much as I expected since the PC was able to connect and see there was a USB device present but it wasn't able to identify what it was.)

 

Having done some searching online, he ordered a USB chip from a supplier on eBay and asked me if I would fit it.  It's a CY7C68013A-56PVXC.  I changed the chip but found that the pod would not now start up.  It got stuck in a cycle of constantly rebooting, just flashing up the "Line 6" splash screen over and over.

 

I removed the new chip and tried repowering with no chip in place.  That gave the same behaviour of constantly rebooting.

 

Finally I soldered the original chip back in and now the pod starts up as normal, but of course the USB interface is still not working.

 

I don't know why it didn't work but there are various possibilities.  It may be that my soldering wasn't flawless.  It could be that the chip was faulty or not as labelled.  It could be that the new chip needed programming to give it an identity as a PODHD500 but I have no idea how to do so.

 

I'm not sure if any of that will be useful info but having desoldered and resoldered these tiny 56-pin chips twice over, I think I'm done experimenting.  If he wants it repaired, I think it'll have to go to a service centre who will presumably just replace the whole board.

 

Thanks for sharing that. Sorry it didn't work for ya. It always sucks when this kind of thing happens.

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I did experience some failure to be recognized by Win 7 PC a couple years ago. It was a prob that just continued on that computer.

What I discovered at the time was was as it was a music PC I had updates switched off and it came up in a search, I cant recall what it was exactly what it was older PC and update incompatabilty or some such. This would happen on some other usb devices not all some

But I was able to effect a work around that I hope would work for you but I am sure you probably have tried it and I don't want to get your hopes up but here was the work around thjat worked on my PC.

 

Nothing would be recoginized no POD HD

The problem was the latest drivers from Line 6 just wouldnt see them after I updated.

Solution from memory was to get the earlier driver d/loaded from Line 6. This will be two drives back I think.

uninstall the driver in Monkey. Close monkey. Probably restart the PC if I recall.

Reconnect the usb and it would want to install driver and I'd direct it to the earlier driver.

Then it would be recognized and work till I updated the driver or sometimes not latch on.

Just redid the process almost anytime I got on.

As a result I am good at editing on the device and only used it for backing up or flash update and trying out custom tones. Sometimes some editing. Usually just backup and most importantly installing model packs! 

 

Of course you have probably tried connecting it to a no. of PCs and such and it is unfortunate if it is the hardware.

Even if your soldering is good, could be worth putting it under a microscope. I believe this is common practice to find rail faults etc

Order another chip after contacting the video author about the chip. (There was no mention of programing it)

And get back in there for another crack. You can do it! You already managed to put it back. 

Chips are susceptible to static damage and it would not put it past a faulty one that slipped by any QC.

Come on, YOU CAN DO IT!

I am rooting for you as I not long ago bought a used HD500 original flashware with a USB fault too cheap to pass up.

Have replaced the usb socket to no avail.

Have the chip now!

I gotta say my failing eyesight gives me doubt I could get that fine a soldering job done. Looks like I might be the one getting a microscope! Now I wish I ordered two chips and after your misadventures I am wondering if it will be worth it.

This is better than it was as I have it all packed in the box, apart, and havent looked at it since. LOLOL

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I have been using my HD500 for a few years. 2 years ago same problem happened and I sent it to the service. They said the motherboard had to be replaced which was I think they said around 300 bucks.. The unit was 500 bucks that time, so I couldn't justify to pay that much money on a replacement part.

 

It seems like a very common issue. Can Line 6 take any action on this??

 

It is really unfair customers pay that much money and then suddenly the processor become useless and no different than $100 pedals...

 

Or at least is there alternative way to connect HD500 to computer beside using USB?

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The programming rotary switch on mine broke years ago but it did not overly concern me as I always used the laptop via USB to make patches. When the same little middle bit of the USB socket lost itself out of mine, as it mysteriously seems to have done on so many others and no other USB device I have ever heard of, my extremely over priced and mediocre sounding multi effects unit became useless junk. I made a few enquiries and located a source for both parts ($20, $12 of which was postage) and thought "well what have I got to loose". Watched what videos I could find and spent the next 4 hours trying to get the USB socket to budge. LOL. They only said it was hard in the videos, not impossible. A bit more research later and I arrived home with a larger soldering iron and desoldering braid. It worked. After a lot of hassle I got all board contacts clean and ready. I have soldered in the new socket and tried to test before reassembly ( have decided to hold off on replacing switch for the moment)

Problem is my laptop is still not finding the HD500. I'm not about to try replacing a chip, especially with no guarantee that that will fix the problem. I have checked all contacts with a multimeter and none are shorting and all are connecting to the board. The only other factor I can think of is maybe there is some earth component missing which may be corrected in reassembly.

The only thing left to do is reassemble the device and test it. If it does not work it will go in the bin. I will have a permanent reminder etched in my brain for ever. "Do not buy anything from Line 6 again."

That my friends is what customer service is ultimately all about.

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The HD500 USB connector seems not much more fragile than most but was intended for recessed mounting, as on this Epson scanner: post-2533493-0-37929800-1489962952_thumb.jpeg

Flush-mounting on a foot switch box begs for trouble, IMO, particularly when semi-permanently USB-connected to an iMac.

Adding a block to virtually recess connectors provides roughly 1 oz prevention by first tracing left-most 7 connectors on paper:  post-2533493-0-93408000-1489963275_thumb.jpeg

then drilling a block of 5/4 inch wood to match and duct-tapng it to the HD500 bottom:  post-2533493-0-23743300-1489963484_thumb.jpeg

This block helps make power connection by feel:  post-2533493-0-06167000-1489963660_thumb.jpeg

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The HD500 USB connector seems not much more fragile than most but was intended for recessed mounting, as on this Epson scanner: attachicon.gifScanUSB.jpeg

Flush-mounting on a foot switch box begs for trouble, IMO, particularly when semi-permanently USB-connected to an iMac.

Adding a block to virtually recess connectors provides roughly 1 oz prevention by first tracing left-most 7 connectors on paper:  attachicon.gifblocktrace.jpeg

then drilling a block of 5/4 inch wood to match and duct-tapng it to the HD500 bottom:  attachicon.gifHD500block1.jpeg

This block helps make power connection by feel:  attachicon.gifHD500blocktop.jpeg

 

​​Very good idea. Thanks for sharing it. I see your point about the USB in the HD500 and x model were designed for recessed mounting. The USB in my Toneport UX2 was way better IMO and it's a flush mounted version as well. I'm not sure why they did it that way but I'll say it was cost saving for the manufacturer's.

 

I've been handling mine with extreme care when I use it, lol.

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hey guysim wondering could someone answer or give advice

i recently purchased a used hd500 i think it may be about 3 years old. it was in immacuate condition when i recived it and the sellie was a decent fella

it was not a cheep unit even used and i had to sell quite a bit of stuff and do extra work to afford it.

 

anyway i did a factory reset on it thinking i could undo the pervious owners presets but realised that it didnt work and instead i proceeded to just put blanks

in where he had placed affects etc so i could build my own sounds

 

after i did this i had to re calabrate the expression pedal which i did then powered the unit off as i was going to a rehersal

 

when i got there and powered the unit on the logo appeared doing that loop thing so many people talk about

 

i had a me50 to use instead and after reharsal i searched problems and soloutions to fix this

 

i did the whole left right and down restarts but nothing

 

i then went at lunch to try the unit through the monkey program and this is where my drama started

 

in a rush to connect the unit as i had little time at work break i think i accidently hit the power cord into the usb and broke the center before someone starts giving out about my clumsy ness i have never before broken any electricial connection i have ever had before bar cheep chineese rubish toys as a kid

 

anyhow my question is for the guys that have fixed theirs did it work. it will cost me 80 euros to fix a replacement from a local computer shop as i live in a remote part on the west coast of ireland service centers and that are def not an option for me so ive to try them. the money will aslo eat into my wages a bit so thats why im wondering did peoples work i have read a lot of terriable things on the fourm in the last few days that make me want to cry so some sort of good news about these actually being repairable would be nice to hear. i am also in a bind with my other problem but i i cannot get the thing to connect to the monkey thing i have appasutely no hope of ever getting a sound out of it

 

if this was made of steel or wood i would have no problem attempting a fix myself and throwing a welder at it but i am not touhing anything with a soldering iorn :) 

 

any good news would be greatly appreciated and i willl def be making a custom housing for this unit if i can get it working ever again with a seperate lead kile the one shown earlier

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