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I've just updated my Macbook to Mac OS Catalina and Line 6 Monkey and License Managers aren't working. They need to be updated to 64 bit. ASAP. Does anyone know if Line 6 is working on this?

I tried pre-amp-only patches first with the pedal-baby and it actually sounded ok but certainly moving to a full amp block (obviously no cab/IR) sounded better... or at least fuller plus it gave me way more tonal options. Each time I've improved what I play the helix through, I've gone back to my patches and tweaked them a little because with each step up I hear more and more detail in the helix and I keep getting more out of it.

yeah - I think for a valve amp you would want to use that approach - I'll find out tomorrow when I crank the Pedal-Baby if there is actually sweet spot although I suspect it will be consistent from low to high volume.

Could be.. there is a ribbon cable that connects the pedal to the main board.. the cable is connected via plugs (no soldering) but to prevent it from being accidentally disconnected it is secured in position even with hot glue .. it is unlikely that it can come off on its own due to vibrations, unless someone has previously unplugged it and removed the hot glue. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X help and useful tips

How are you seeing snapshot alter things, exactly? The state of the on-board pedal (whether it's acting as EXP1 or EXP2) is recalled with snapshots, so maybe that's what's tripping you up? If you have it so the the bypass controller for both the Wah and Volume is set to the Toe Switch, then it should be pretty straightforward. If Volume is active and you click the toe switch, the Volume block will be bypassed and the Wah will be activated. If you switch snapshots in this state, things will go back to how the snapshot was saved (assuming you have Snapshot Bypass turned on for these blocks - turning it off could easily cause a misalignment between which EXP is active and which block is turned on). I also think keeping the Snapshot Edits parameter set to Discard is going to be easier. As far the EXP Position parameters, you probably want that set to Per Preset or Global, not Per Snapshot.

Disclaimers: I do not own either NI Komplete Audio 6 or Studio One. I own Scarlett 18i20 and Reaper. You'll need to translate to your device. I looked for the manual for it, but apparently it's a state secret. The easiest way to re-amp with Helix is to spend $99 on Native, that's how I do it. I decided to try to do it the way you're doing it because I know it can be done and wanted to see if I could get it to work. I'm crazy that way, and if the results of my struggle with this help you out, cool. Notes on the Scarlett 18i20: The Scarlett has 10 hardware inputs. Inputs 9/10 are the S/PDIF. It has 12 hardware outputs. 11/12 are the S/PDIF. The 18i20 uses the same mixer SW as the 6i6, and I imagine the I/O Channel #s would be relative. 8 HW Inputs makes S/PDIF Channels 7/8; 6HW Outputs makes S/PDIF Channels 5/6. The 6i6 is similar to your device, but YMMV. First Steps - Helix Recording Preset Two paths, one effected, one clean, both Inputs set to Guitar, both Outputs set to Digital, one Output panned hard left (S/PDIF 1), one panned hard right (S/PDIF 2). Alternately, you could have a big preset with 1A into 1B, then split off 2B with Guitar Input and your second Digital Output. Re-amping Preset Input S/PDIF, Output Digital DAW - Reaper Track 1 Effected - Input S/PDIF 1, Output Master. Track 2 Clean (DI) - Input S/PDIF 2, Output S/PDIF (Outputs 11/12) and Master Track 3 Re-amp - Input S/PDIF 1/2, Output Master Master Output 1/2 Mixer/Audio Interface - Scarlett 18i20 Here's where the complications ensue. In order to get this to work, I have my Monitor outputs set to Software Playback 1/2. That's the Master Out in Reaper. ***S/PDIF Outputs 1/2 set to Software Playback 11/12.*** ***MUTE this Channel during initial recording to prevent digital feedback (NASTY!). UN-MUTE to enable re-amping. I think that's it! BUT....it's getting late, time to sleep. Hopefully, I won't re-read this over coffee tomorrow and go "OH NO! If he does that all the magic smoke will escape and he'll be very angry!" Seriously though, keep your monitor /headphone volume low until you've got the bugs worked out. I wasn't joking about that digital feedback being NASTY!

Thank you so much L6 for the new 2.0 software. Made all the difference in the world on my 240 head. It was good before, but now it rips hard! Unbelievable power and sound with a proper 4x12. You can hear this rig half a mile away! Bravo gentlemen!!!