Leaderboard

Because sometimes there are problem frequencies that you need to target with more precision than the bass, mids, and treble knobs on the amp model allow. Modelers are not amps, and FRFR speakers and/or headphones are not guitar cabinets... and neither will respond exactly like their real- world counterparts. To use modelers and FRFR outputs effectively requires that you think more like a recording engineer than a guitar player... and that means developing an understanding of EQ, and how various different types of mics (and their placement) affect guitar tone. Don't fixate on anybody else's settings, recommendations, or recipes for success. Just because something works for me, doesn't guarantee that it'll work for you... and neither one of us is "right" or "wrong". In the end, you have to experiment. A LOT. Turn knobs until it sounds good... where any one particular knob lands is wholly irrelevant. Start with some YouTube Helix tutorials... there are dozens, if not hundreds to choose from. I recommend Jason Sadites' channel. Learn to build a simple patch, and really understand what the various tools at your disposal actually do... it's the only way. Merely duplicating someone else's settings is a fast track to failure. You have to find what works for you... and a thorough understanding the device and the basics of recording is the only way to do that... because what all modelers are designed to do is produce recorded guitar tones. That's what a lot of neophytes miss. They assume that it's just supposed to magically produce the same sounds they've heard their whole lives, from a guitar amp a few feet away... but that's not what's going on here. What you're hearing is the sound of a mic-ed amp, monitored through some other output. In short, what the engineer at the desk hears in the control room... not the sound of the amp itself blaring away in the live room next door. Those are two very different sounds. You just lack experience, as we all did initially. As I said... modelers are not guitar amps, and treating them like one does not work. The learning curve is steep, but it's not insurmountable... it just requires time and effort...considerable time when you're new to it. You will not master this device, or any other modeler for that matter, in a few hours on Saturday afternoon.

I think you're over-thinking the suggestion a little bit. The quoted thing regard EQ is suggesting that a driven tube power amp will change the EQ slightly to have a low-mid scoop compared to a solid-state amplifier that doesn't change the tone at all. There's no real reason to do the EQ suggestion unless you're having an issues with the tone. A slight EQ cut is not going to dramatically change the tone, nor is it going to be accurate to every tube power amp one might come across. Use your ears and dial it in till it sounds good. My original post was directed towards the OP where he mentioned stock settings on an amp model, then having to do crazy EQ stuff after the cab IR to get it sound good. My suggestion would be to treat the amp model like a real amp that you're changing cabs with. If you have a Marshall dialed in for a Marshall cab w/75w speakers, you can't just transfer those settings over to a Mesa cab and have it sound as good/the same.

That was shot down on the Facebook thread.

Gizmology Class of 2020 and continuing!

I see you too have studied at the Institute of Internet Gizmology.

What about barefoot translucent toppers (and setting no led at all for the off-status)? If you can't see those, then it's time for a eye-check. :D

Always good to see when things work out! This board and all its 'experts' are amazing.

Like when I 'fixed' my single leaky shower valve and hot was now cold and cold was now hot.

Actually, i just fixed it, and amazed myself in the process i copied the msvcr100.dll from the "C:\Program Files (x86)\Line6\Line 6 Updater" directory into "C:\Program Files (x86)\Line6\POD Go Edit" directory why it was missing still remains the core issue here, something for the boffins

Ok Folks. It seems like some folks are trying to be helpful and others are quite defensive... Let me say a few things first and then re-phrase my question or statement. I am not a Helix Hater. I am not and Axe guy. I am not someone looking to bash the Helix in any way. I thought positive enough about it to put my money down and buy one. If you work for Line 6, I know you guys work hard to produce a great product. I am NOT knocking you hard work at all. What I am doing is either giving Constructive Criticism OR asking What am I doing wrong. So, Let me Rephrase: If I take a Marshall Plexi and throw it on top of a Marshall 4x12 with Green Backs or even G12T75 Speakers in it, plug my Les Paul into the Bright input and play it, A noise comes out of the box. All I may need to tweak is Volumes, Bass, Middle, Treble, Presence. For Reference, That Noise is a lot like Glenn's Patch (which I posted a video to) and MG Blade's Video, But that is for Reference, so you know the sound I am talking about. That being said, I think it is a reasonable expectation to be able to put the same virtual amp/cab up in helix, set similar settings ( Volumes, Bass, Middle, etc) and get a somewhat similar sound. One person said in this thread that Glenn tweaked his patch 8 way to Sunday... The point I am making is it shouldn't take more than plopping an amp down and setting the standard settings to get a similar sound as the real thing. Yeah, I know there is a Microphone involved too. That is also taken into account. That being said, I am hopeful that someone at Helix (or even a user) says either: 1) Well, you might get better success by doing this or that ( ie, change some parameter somewhere like eq response, etc) or 2) You know what? You gave us something to think about and thank you for your input. perhaps because of it, 2.60 may have even better patches.