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@waymda Yes of corse, very carefully !

The post you're replying to is 5yrs old, so that person might not still be around. If you're using a Helix AMP in your signal chain, then you can simply go direct to the physical amp's RETURN, running your rig the same way you'd use a traditional rig. However, this bypasses the physical amp's preamp section. Without some kind of an amp in the Helix signal chain, it probably won't sound all that great. So, if your goal is to simplify your setup, you can use Helix as either a traditional pedalboard with all effects into the physical amp's INPUT or as a traditional pedalboard with AIAB into the physical amp's RETURN. If you run 4cm you can choose, on the fly, to use either the physical amp's preamp or a Helix amp simply by assigning both the Helix amp and the FX S/R Block to the same FS. If you SAVE the preset with one ON and the other BYPASSED then each time you hit the FS you'll TOGGLE between the physical amp and the Helix amp. You can also use SNAPSHOTS for this, allowing you to change other parameters/devices at the same time from a single FS. You can even, DSP allowing, use multiple Helix amps for even more virtual "amp channels". You can place some FX (like OD, DIST, MODS) BEFORE the amps and some (like time based FX) AFTER the amps and the whole shebang will output through the physical amp's power amp and speaker. This is also convenient if you want to route the signal to FOH using an IR. One of the advantages of Helix is millions of options, but if you want SIMPLE you can do that, too.

I've noticed something: I used my Helix offline, away from home, with the group, and now, back home, the time changes about 5 seconds before my computer or phone. If I change the time manually and then back to automatic time with an internet connection, it's still about 5 seconds ahead. The first time I used my Helix, I couldn't log into my account, and it was due to a known bug: the time wasn't correct, even with an internet connection. I had to update it manually and then switch back to automatic. I don't know if this problem is similar...

When it comes to tightening pedals, one thing I've learned is that if you overtighten the outside screw, the force of moving the pedal can end up loosening the inside screws. This is the case for the Dunlop X pedals (mini and normal size); I don't know about the L6 EX2. My solution was to use Loctite on the inside screws and then having lighter tension on the outside screw.

Greeting fellow Helixers, So over the weekend I did the upgrade - went from 2.10 -> 2.50 (well had to hit 2.21 first). I have been using the Helix for about 1 1/2 years now, and I am in love with it... Helix + Ownhammers IRs = Heaven. After the upgrade, I only love it more. Anyway, I could have sworn you were able to edit Global Settings through the Editor application. I can't find the settings anywhere on 2.51, am I going crazy? My notes on 2.50- Startup is noticeably faster Really? A full state backup since 2.30 with Global Settings? Why didn't I upgrade sooner? Lonestar Amp is awesome, can't wait for the clean channel to be released. Were the blocks optimized to utilize less of the DSP? I read it on the forums a few times, but have not seen an official statement. -Still on my wishlist - ability to set individual Footswitches to Stomp/Snapshots, not just the 4/4 or all 8 settings. So you can do things like have 2 Snapshots and 6 Stomps displaying. Thanks for reading, and thanks to anyone who responds. Keep rockin'.

Hi, I have to agree with you that there is some sort of technical reason for this, in much the same way that a lot of the hardware control options available on the Helix devices are not accessible in Helix Native. It’s the nature of the beast. One thing which confuses me more than anything with this quibbling about an editing feature not being available in HX Edit, is the fact that in order to use HX Edit with the hardware unit, it requires that they are physically connected via a USB cable. AFAIK, the theoretical max recommended length of a USB2 cable is approx 5 meters (16.4 feet), not exactly the ends of the earth, and I would imagine that most folk are actually tethered to their device with a much shorter cable, possibly around 2 or 3 meters. And this is a problem? I guess that, in this modern world, the average multi-fx user has become too idle to reach down and make a physical change to their Helix (whatever model). I mean it’s not like modifying Global Settings is something that requires regular hourly changes and updates to the unit. I have been using my Helix floor for more than 10 years and the amount of times that Global Settings has interfered with my workflow would be… now let me see, ah, yeah - never. Oh, and because I’m a studio rat, I have my Helix on a stand, within arms reach - works for me, but I also have a bad back from many years of lugging heavy equipment around. It’s not exactly a life and death issue, although you did manage to wake dead thread. Hope this helps/makes sense.

jmrwoods, thanks a lot for your response. Ultimately, I bought a XLR/TS cable with the good welds, and it works very well.

You’ll be fine with an XLR to TRS cable. The unbalanced input will just ignore the ring (negative signal) since there is no connection.

[Fixed] Root cause was server issue with Line 6.

Indeed that seems to be my issue. Thanks.

Hello, i have learned that after Firmware updates patches may sound different to before and the user has to "readjust" them. Now i wonder if you guys went through this each time you made an Update (may be even with 1024 presets) ?

Since USB features seems to take more time than they initially communicated (like the Expand D10 support), have you considered an RJ45 Ethernet to USB-A connection adapter if a change in Wifi accesspoint/router isn't an option? Please see the helpful comment in this thread: V 1.3 - still no fix for the WiFi issues Hopefully I'm not making a mistake in my thinking!

I have a lot of experience with the live sound mix and my OG Helix. If you want to "cut" through the mix, there are several ingredients and lack thereof to achieve that. So number one: reverb sounds good at home, sounds good when you record your guitar directly, but live it buries you and make your playing unintelligible. If you have any type of hall reverb, it should be lowered to a minimum, or removed. Concert spaces have natural reverb, so you really do not need any, except for special effects, or for that drippy reverb sound that surf music requires. Instead of reverb, I use subtle ping-pong delay that bounces a few times left/right, but does not cover up the initial attach of the note/chord. There are also "ducking" reverbs that let the note ring out, before applying. Also for regular reverb, the "pre-delay" parameter is very useful to be able to hear the initial attack of the note, without which it becomes a mess. For live concerts, there's a separate independent mix done on purpose--to represent what it sounds like in the venue, by adding all the reverb, etc back to the sound. And I stress, it's an independent mix from the actual FOH sound mix. If a concert is broadcast on TV, there are 2 sound mixers working independently of each other. So while reverb sounds good and can make your playing sound smoother and better, for live use it's not to be overused. I've listened to board mixes of my live concerts where I played and the guitar doesn't necessarily sound great direct. But that's the whole point--your guitar's sound needs to work for the venue's acoustics, not to sound great as a concert recording. I've also reviewed concert footage that people have posted from their phones, and confirm that that it sounded great with plenty of ambiance. Number two: for solos my approach that has worked for me is always boosting the 2K frequency with an equalizer in my chain. Turning up the volume does not work due to limiters, and whatever else the sound system has. When I needed to really cut through the horns and all that stuff, I boosted it by 10 db for the solo snapshot. Nowadays I go from 2 to about 6 db. Some songs need a deafeningly-loud solo, some don't. So I play by ear. Also depends on the pickups that I use. Single coils already sound pretty glassy, so further EQ-ing is going to sound extremely piercing if overdone. You should not have too much of that 2K frequency, as it is known to be headache-inducing. And when boosting this frequency you will definitely be heard. In my old band I didn't constantly noodle all over the place, I had a few concise solos and that's when it was used. Also I've used it for clean lead lines as well, think "Day Tripper" by the Beatles. That's all 2K, but it's not constantly hitting you over the head, I'd never strum chords with that sound....

What audio interface are you using? Check its Input Level trim for the guitar input. The incoming signal direct from your guitar is Instrument level. The processed signal coming if from Helix is probably Line level. Big difference. Unless the interface is compensating there’s bound to be lower volume and more noise.

I was already using mesh wifi but, when I got a router from my new ISP, my Ring Doorbell chimes stopped working along with several other items. I switched the new ISP router into "modem-only" mode and added a wired router before the mesh. And everything came back online.