siremoon

Pitch shifting sounds no different to me. It was dreadful before and it still is. By a country mile the worst FX block in the system in my opinion

When you say "track 1" and "track 2" what do you mean? There are 4 paths labelled 1a, 1b, 2a and 2b. Do you mean you have the amps on 1a and 1b or on 1a and 2a? If the former then try the latter as this will use both DSPs.

You're welcome

You won't get any answers on any of this stuff because it is commercial information which Line 6 are not going to divulge. They've said that more stuff is coming but they haven't said what or when. You'll only find out when whatever it is gets released. I would never buy anything on the promise of jam tomorrow, if you don't like what's in it now then don't buy it now.

Maybe you have the footswitch configured for bypassing/activating the split block as well as changing the A/B mix? If you have then you'll get 50/50 with the footswitch off and 0/100 with it on. Make sure the footswitch is only controlling the routing and not the bypass/active state of the split block.

I reckon that's exactly what it will be. I had the same issue when I first got my unit. It drove me nuts before I figured it out.

I presume all those who have these world ending problems with patch switching latency didn't have any issues at all with their pre-Helix rigs? That these rigs could produce a multitude of different tones, change from one to the other with no delay and no tap dancing? Assuming the answer to both of these questions is yes then the bit I don't understand is why on earth did you buy a Helix? The latency shoudn't have come as a surprise should it. It's been done to death a million times over on here and elsewhere. I bought the Helix because it was clear it was going to give me far more than I had with my modest one amp, one cab and a few pedals rig. If it hadn't then I wouldn't have bought it. If your old rig is simple but produces all these tones you need then why change? If your old rig is complicated (and therefore likely to be expensive) then why did you think a single $1500 box could replace it? Doesn't make sense to me. As to the "I'm not changing my music to suit the gear when I play live" indignation then I don't get that either. Musicians have always had to do that. Sometimes you compromise because you can't practically recreate what you record, sometimes for convenience. Personally I'd rather take a Helix on the road instead of 4 amps, 4 cabs and a pedal board the size of a chest freezer even if it means a compromise. And do you know what the funniest bit about all of this is? The audience don't give a damn. It's only you that notices.

So let me get this straight. You start a thread saying you can't get a single decent tone out of the Helix and have sent it back. Ok no problem with that however then: 1. You fail to answer most of the questions raised by other members in respect of your gear and Helix setup. 2. You get upset when other members who have had Helix a lot longer (and in many cases have published samples of the great tones they are getting) have the nerve to suggest there might be more to this than the Helix being a poor product. 3. You resort to calling those who disagree with you trolls 4. You then say you are no longer participating in the thread but continue to do so 5. You then want the thread locked because you are not getting the response you want to what you post Quite frankly I don't know what you expected to happen. From reading all of the fora where Helix is being discussed it seems to me to be pretty obvious that most purchasers are very happy with the tone they are getting. I accept some are not but I don't see them being in the majority. On the balance of probabilities it seems unlikely that all of the satisfied purchasers are simply failing to hear how bad the tone is. Tone is very subjective and I get that you didn't like what you were hearing (despite being incredulous that you couldn't improve it by adjustment) however I don't see how you could have had any realistic expectation that everyone would agree with you.

<rant mode> I have now reported two bugs to Line 6 using the support ticket mechanism. In both cases the initial response I got showed that the responder had not read and/or understood what I had written and gave an answer that wholly failed to address the issue. We are rightly encouraged to raise issues through the proper channels but come on Line 6, at least do us the service of properly reading what we write rather than jumping to conclusions. I know enough about software engineering from 35 years in the game to spot a bug when I see one, and both of the things I've raised are nailed on bugs which are not going to magically go away by reloading the firmware. Next time I find one I wont bother to waste my time telling you about it. </rant mode> :angry:

There's obviously some subtlety I'm missing here. I turn my Helix on at the beginning of the set and turn it off at the end. Please could someone explain why the boot time makes any difference at all because I don't get it.

Wasn't it what BucF16 was trying to do in his video ?

I appreciate you taking the time to do all of that and it seems a foolproof method for assigning multiple blocks but it doesn't allow me to do what I'm trying to do. I'm obviously not explaining the issue very well. Let me have another go: I want all the blocks assigned to the switch to go bypassed when the switch is on/bright/lit and all the blocks assigned to the switch to go active when the switch is off/dim/unlit. I've tried this with one block and with multiple blocks and I can't do it. I therefore conclude it is not possible. Am I correct in this conclusion? If not how do I do it?

Just to further clarify the second point. When I say that the last assigned block always follows the switch, if you edit the bypassed state of the last assigned block then the switch state changes to maintain the fixed relationship. You cannot so far as I can see invert that relationship. The last assigned block is always switch lit equals active. Also I've been given a number of ways to achieve what I haven't been able to do and they either address an issue that isn't what I'm talking about or they don't work.

What I'm saying is that the opposite of your (1), that is to say have the switch light up when its assigned block goes bypassed, is something I haven't been able to do. I don't know if it is possible but if it is I can't work out how to do it. In some situations it appears to have worked but then if you save the patch, go to another one then come back it reverts to switch lit equals block active. The second thing I am saying is that when you assign multiple blocks the very last one you assign always follows the state of the switch, that is to say it is bypassed when the switch is off and active when the switch is on. You can change the bypassed/active state of previously assigned blocks to be either way but not the last one. The last one always follows the switch. Again it may be possible to configure things so this doesn't happen but again if it is I can't work out how to do it. I just end up having to make sure that a block I want active when the switch is on is the last one that gets assigned

My experience is that if you have a single block assigned to a footswitch then the bypassed/active state of the block always mirrors the off/on state of the footswitch. I have not found a way to have a footswitch go on and its single assigned block go to bypassed. What I've also found is that the way this is enforced seems to be inconsistent. Sometimes the system enforces this straight away, other times it appears to work but is then lost once you move away and then come back to the patch as in your case here. I've also found that this behaviour applies to the last assigned block in a multiple assignment situation too. The bypassed/active state of last assigned block will always follow the off/on state of the switch. I've been told that this behaviour isn't the case but nobody has so far provided a method which has been successful in making the unit I have do otherwise. After the last response I got telling me exactly how to do it didn't work I gave up asking and I just live with it.

Thanks for the replies. I've now worked out by experimentation the cause of the problem I've been having. It seems that the on/off state of the FS always mirrors the active/bypassed state of the most recently assigned block. I expect everybody else already knows this but I didn't. Having realised that, I can now see how to get any desired mapping of individual block state to FS state in a multiple block assignment. It also explains why I couldn't assign a single block to an FS and have it bypassed when the FS is on. Simple workaround for that is to put in a block that doesn't do anything (eg volume set at 1) and have it mirror the FS whilst the "real" target block is set to be out of step.

I'm having problems getting a footswitch configured how I want it when assigning more than one block. Let's say I have a block x assigned to FS8. When I turn FS8 on block x becomes active. Fine so far. Now I want to add another block y to FS8. How do I set it up so that x is active when FS8 is on and y is active when FS8 is off? When I do it they either both go on and off together or they are the wrong way round. Please could someone outline the procedure to set this up right first time (and how to alter it if I get it wrong). Finding this very frustrating. Thanks

... and it looks like I'll still be lugging my Whammy DT around with me. Hey ho.

With the Simple Pitch block I've been getting like a yucky pulsing, oscillation kind of noise if I play an arpeggio on the bottom three strings. I can only get it to happen if I fret the high E and B the same and the G one higher (eg E and B at 3rd fret, G at 4th) then pluck E B G in succession. After playing the G there is the horrible oscillation. I can't get it to do it with other string combinations or with other relative combinations of notes.

Indeed. I realise that now.

This was my first upgrade as I only got the unit a few days ago. One small suggestion for Line 6 is to make a minor tweak to this instruction: While holding footswitches 9 and 10 (middle two switches on the bottom row), turn on Helix. Wait for the message “Will reset Globals and restore stock Presets, Setlists and IRs…†to appear and let go. I did that repeatedly and it didn't work. However when I stopped "holding" the footswitches and "pressed" them instead it worked. I appreciate not a huge thing but it might stop someone else tearing their hair out for a few minutes until they figure it out like I eventually did. :huh:

Managed to grab one from Andertons. Supposed to be delivered today. :D

Not anymore. Site saying January now

A Yamaha employee was saying on another forum that all deliveries to UK retailers out to March 2016 are just to cover existing orders. I take that to mean that it will be next Spring or even early Summer at the very earliest before Helix is generally available in the UK.

Line 6 are going to focus their attention on bug reports raised through the proper reporting channels. They will not have the resources to scour internet fora looking for things which may or may not be bugs and may not even be first hand experiences. That applies to this forum just as much as any other. So the "new guy who scraped up $1499 to buy a helix and it's freezing up and doing the black screen" should log a problem report through the Line 6 support system to ensure it officially registers on the consciousness of the approriate Line 6 development department. That way an investigation and ultimately a fix is far more probable. Just moaning about it on here isn't going to get the problem fixed. Boards like this are great for finding out about issues, discussing work arounds etc etc. However they do not act as a substitute for reporting problems the right way and nor should they.