psarkissian

Have him get a hold of me through customer support. It's not a board replacement, and least not just yet. I need to have him check something for me before he goes replacing a board.

Yes, what ColonelForbin said. Line 6 Link, AES/EBU 110-Ohm. Don't use regular 50-Ohm XLR mic cable, it's the wrong impedance.

If you're getting buzz, as in 60-cycle hum, then there is a ground problem somewhere in your signal path, and it needs to be isolated. It could be any piece of gear connected in that signal path (guitar, cable, UX8, USB, the computer, the power strip with surge and filter protection, the wall socket, ground potentials between different wall sockets). Typically it's a ground loop, but other factors can play into it as well. Fluorescent lights can are also a source of problems in that regard.

Correct, the 69 neck won't fit the Variax Standard neck pocket. You'll have to shop for the right neck as far a neck pocket fit and length of fret-board/ fret scale. Fret-board length and scale have to be correct, or you'll have intonation problems. Sharp fret ends are easy to deal with for a competent guitar tech who can do it without over-beveling the ends.

Seen one or two JTV's with those on them, they keep the strap on really well.

I own a '66 Ricki 370-12, and so I use that as part of my testing when I work on JTV's. Very, very good match-up. Used to crew for a band with a vintage Les Paul player, so I use that when I test JTV's, very, very good match-up,.... along with several other models of guitars I know or own. As a result, I own four JTV's as well.

Dunlops and Schallers, yeah, I've seen both come across my bench. They work well. Just be careful to not use too long of a screw. Seen too many times where the screw went through into the cavity, shorting to the 3-Way Toggle switch assembly on a JTV-59, and blowing all the electronics as a result.

"I never understood why Line6 didn't give us a nylon model since they were able to do it in the Acoustic 700"--- Page-20 in the 700 Acoustic Pilot's Guide, nylon model after a '58 Manuel Velazquez, who built guitars in the Torres and Hauser way of doing it. Andre Segovia played a Hauser and at some point added a Velazquez to his stable of guitars. There was a piece earlier this year in a classical guitar magazine on the Velazquez guitar played by Segovia. Last year was a piece about the Hauser guitar. Yeah, a model done after the Hauser, Velazquez guitars and/or one of the Camps, Ramirez or,.... Antonio Picado, would be a nice addition in the acoustic domain. Haven't played the Velazquez or the Hauser. But, Cordoba has the sister guitar of Segovia's Hauser. I got to play a guitar from the line they put out that was done to those specs. Very nice. I've played Camps, Ramirez and the Picado,... they are wonderful. There are another four makers that would be good choices. Anyone of the afore mentioned, would make a wonderful choice for a classical nylon string Model,.... Hauser, Velazquez, Ramirez and Cordoba (are classic nylons) and the Camps and Picado (brought me to tears, they were so good). These would be good guitars to make nylon guitar Models from.

Thank you. :)

I've just been informed that it will ship today.

Transformer is being prepped for shipping as we speak.

Basic rule of thumb,... not sure? Contact Line 6 support. They'll pick my brain if they need to.

In what regards could you possibly short the circuit when replacing strap buttons? Static electricity?--- from clay-man No, people who use too long of hardware and and bore into the boards and blow them. You're smarter than that, so I have no concerns about you doing that. In general, don't alter the functionality. There is one guy who uses fake inlay decals on his fret-board, another used a string tree,.... function wasn't altered, resonances were maintained. Different gauge strings, no problem. But since the tension is altered, it's good to take it to a L6 authorized service, since they will have set-up info and procedures. That has to be done right since there is interactions between components, so there are variables that have to be considered that are not dealt with, with normal passive electronics guitars. It's not voodoo or secret sauce, it's extra things that come into play, that if not done right, have proven in the past to just make things worse.

Back up battery,... if you want. VDI cable is a must. Too many time a guitar comes back with a regular CAT5 cable. Without the XLR type casing, there can be jiggling to the point of indeterminacy. And to a supply line, transient like that are bad. The they try force it, bent pins occur in the VDI jack, then the real bad stuff happens,... it ends up on my bend for repairs. So using the VDI cable with XLR casings on both sides (not the interface cable) is a good thing. I know all these things because I've worked on hundreds of JTV's (roughly 740+ at last count), so I've seen all the things that can go wrong with them,... and then some.

He doesn't have to go that far. I work on guitars with other strap locks all the time, not a big deal. All I said was,... just don't short the circuits when you put them on. I see too much of that. Clay-man is a sharp guy, I expect he won't be a problem in that regard.

I'll look into that.

"What about advanced guitar maintenance? Is this something that absolutely needs to be done by a Line 6 person? I'm not talking about messing with the electronics, but any other hardware which may need to be maintained just like any other guitar if it wears down or gets misadjusted"--- Check with Line 6 support. don't mess with the electronics, advanced repairs "typically" are something to be done by a Line 6 authorized person who knows the product. Some things should not be left to just anyone. Like I said before, if it goes to the functionality of the guitar, leave it us or your local Line 6 authorized service in your area. This is not our fathers Gibson Archtop with passive electronics, this is a different beast with active electronics that should not be messed with. I'm here on this Forum to keep your gear from ending up on my repair bench.

Just make sure you don't use too long of a screw. Too many times a guitar comes back and the screw is driven right into the circuit board, shorting everything out. Haven't seen that affect functionality beyond that yet. So be careful.

This isn't stadium beer and a dog. And it's not just L6, most gear is design that way for reasons I explained earlier. Has nothing to do with marketing or exclusivity, it has to do with keeping your gear intact and functioning well. That's why I'm here, to keep your gear off my repair bench.

No. Those older ones are +9Vdc system. See the manual regarding the options on those. JTV and Variax Standard batteries won't fit in the compartment. Old stuff is not interchangeable with the newer JTV's and Standard, it's a whole other system, a different beast.

General rule of thumb, is that if it alters the functionality of the guitar, it will affect the warranty. You're pretty safe with decals, Fishman gadgets and such are not a problem, so long as it doesn't interfere with the normal function of the guitar. Pulling up a knob to get to a retainer nut,... just be careful if you don't know what's underneath. Don't mess with the electronics. Too many think they know what they are doing, get in over their heads, and then end up sending me their guitar. I hate having to work on it if it's for something preventable, like someone not heeding my warnings. I'll have to get back to you on the particulars of some of the other stuff, but I thought I'd give a general overall rule of thumb to start with.

:) Rock on!

Less to do with being "sensitive", more to do with being for our own internal tracking on these.

From the Line 6 Knowledge Base FAQ,... ===================================================================== Battery Q: What kind of battery is used in the James Tyler Variax and what is the battery life? A: JTV guitars use a lithium-ion battery similar to that of a camcorder. A fully charged battery can deliver at least 12 hours of continuous performance. There is a four light battery life indicator on the battery compartment on the back of the JTV guitars that can be viewed by pressing the round flush black button next to the lights. 4 LEDs = 9+ hours 3 LEDs = 6+ hours 2 LEDs = 3+ hours 1 LED = less than 3 hours 1 LED blinking = less than 1 hour, recharge battery Note: Using a non-Line 6 JTV battery will void your warranty and may damage your JTV. ===================================================================== This also applies to the Variax Standard.

World Music,... yes.