psarkissian

I've just been informed that it will ship today.

Transformer is being prepped for shipping as we speak.

Basic rule of thumb,... not sure? Contact Line 6 support. They'll pick my brain if they need to.

In what regards could you possibly short the circuit when replacing strap buttons? Static electricity?--- from clay-man No, people who use too long of hardware and and bore into the boards and blow them. You're smarter than that, so I have no concerns about you doing that. In general, don't alter the functionality. There is one guy who uses fake inlay decals on his fret-board, another used a string tree,.... function wasn't altered, resonances were maintained. Different gauge strings, no problem. But since the tension is altered, it's good to take it to a L6 authorized service, since they will have set-up info and procedures. That has to be done right since there is interactions between components, so there are variables that have to be considered that are not dealt with, with normal passive electronics guitars. It's not voodoo or secret sauce, it's extra things that come into play, that if not done right, have proven in the past to just make things worse.

Back up battery,... if you want. VDI cable is a must. Too many time a guitar comes back with a regular CAT5 cable. Without the XLR type casing, there can be jiggling to the point of indeterminacy. And to a supply line, transient like that are bad. The they try force it, bent pins occur in the VDI jack, then the real bad stuff happens,... it ends up on my bend for repairs. So using the VDI cable with XLR casings on both sides (not the interface cable) is a good thing. I know all these things because I've worked on hundreds of JTV's (roughly 740+ at last count), so I've seen all the things that can go wrong with them,... and then some.

He doesn't have to go that far. I work on guitars with other strap locks all the time, not a big deal. All I said was,... just don't short the circuits when you put them on. I see too much of that. Clay-man is a sharp guy, I expect he won't be a problem in that regard.

I'll look into that.

"What about advanced guitar maintenance? Is this something that absolutely needs to be done by a Line 6 person? I'm not talking about messing with the electronics, but any other hardware which may need to be maintained just like any other guitar if it wears down or gets misadjusted"--- Check with Line 6 support. don't mess with the electronics, advanced repairs "typically" are something to be done by a Line 6 authorized person who knows the product. Some things should not be left to just anyone. Like I said before, if it goes to the functionality of the guitar, leave it us or your local Line 6 authorized service in your area. This is not our fathers Gibson Archtop with passive electronics, this is a different beast with active electronics that should not be messed with. I'm here on this Forum to keep your gear from ending up on my repair bench.

Just make sure you don't use too long of a screw. Too many times a guitar comes back and the screw is driven right into the circuit board, shorting everything out. Haven't seen that affect functionality beyond that yet. So be careful.

This isn't stadium beer and a dog. And it's not just L6, most gear is design that way for reasons I explained earlier. Has nothing to do with marketing or exclusivity, it has to do with keeping your gear intact and functioning well. That's why I'm here, to keep your gear off my repair bench.

No. Those older ones are +9Vdc system. See the manual regarding the options on those. JTV and Variax Standard batteries won't fit in the compartment. Old stuff is not interchangeable with the newer JTV's and Standard, it's a whole other system, a different beast.

General rule of thumb, is that if it alters the functionality of the guitar, it will affect the warranty. You're pretty safe with decals, Fishman gadgets and such are not a problem, so long as it doesn't interfere with the normal function of the guitar. Pulling up a knob to get to a retainer nut,... just be careful if you don't know what's underneath. Don't mess with the electronics. Too many think they know what they are doing, get in over their heads, and then end up sending me their guitar. I hate having to work on it if it's for something preventable, like someone not heeding my warnings. I'll have to get back to you on the particulars of some of the other stuff, but I thought I'd give a general overall rule of thumb to start with.

:) Rock on!

Less to do with being "sensitive", more to do with being for our own internal tracking on these.

From the Line 6 Knowledge Base FAQ,... ===================================================================== Battery Q: What kind of battery is used in the James Tyler Variax and what is the battery life? A: JTV guitars use a lithium-ion battery similar to that of a camcorder. A fully charged battery can deliver at least 12 hours of continuous performance. There is a four light battery life indicator on the battery compartment on the back of the JTV guitars that can be viewed by pressing the round flush black button next to the lights. 4 LEDs = 9+ hours 3 LEDs = 6+ hours 2 LEDs = 3+ hours 1 LED = less than 3 hours 1 LED blinking = less than 1 hour, recharge battery Note: Using a non-Line 6 JTV battery will void your warranty and may damage your JTV. ===================================================================== This also applies to the Variax Standard.

World Music,... yes.

More recent ones have the double slots for convenience of adjusting tremolo spring tension. Some players like the solid one used on earlier JTV's, so every now and then, one comes across my bench. I forget what the transition date was from solid to double slot, but early 2012 sounds close enough. BTW,... 1202 is 2012, but not February 2012.

Factory strings are D'Addario XL110's, [10 to 46] sets are standard on all JTV as well as the new Variax Standard model.

A loose chassis ground inside the unit somewhere. Maybe an instrument-to-transmitter cable is failing. Log a ticket with Line 6 support and get it serviced.

And the drain rate is different. Whatever internal diode is in the Sony, will get blown. I used to see this incompatibility problem between batteries with Sony Discman's and Sony laptops. Using third party batteries is a dangerous coin toss for your gear. Normally I'd agree cruisinon2, but here, it's more about the drain rate and yes, the third pin too,... like the 3rd rail on The Underground. Companies want you to use their power sources because they are tailored to and somewhat assured to work with their product. Using a 3rd party power source, you never know what you get or how compatible it. Always a safe bet to go with what's specified. And so as a result there is an electrical reason for the 3rd pin. And those different drain rates do make a difference.

There's a diagram on pages 9, 10, 11, in the manual (hard copy or online) on how to hook up multiple units.

Daisy chaining the antennae is fine, see the manual on how to do that. Also bear in mind the dummy loads and how they are used.

Do you have a diagram of what you are trying to do, attach as a jpeg? There should be something about hook ups on the Knowledge Base, and in the manual. Are you trying to daisy-chain the transmitters, receivers or antennae?

Make sure the tubes get properly biased.

I'll save you the PIA,... nothing obvious.