psarkissian

Check the manual for using the "edit page" to do set up on the input/output configuration you are trying to do.

http://line6.com/data/6/0a060b316ac34f0593d168408/application/pdf/PODxt%20Live%20-%20English%20.pdf pages 3.10 (30 of 144) and 4.10 (48 of 144) ... in the online Pilot's Handbook.

"Now I am hard at trying to convince Line6 via psarkissian to elimit that software restriction"---- Unfortunately it's not up to me. Your Alt Tune selections won't match what's on the knob. Anything below version 2.0, and you won't be able to use Workbench HD, only the earlier version of Workbench will work with that. Just so that you and others are aware, if you are not already.

Log a ticket in your Line 6 account, explain the situation. If you got it recently and it's under warranty, then servicing it shouldn't be a problem. It sounds like it will need to be serviced.

"... you're just gonna keep hearing the same tired refrain that Gibson specs on a JTV will give you the clap..."---- if you're getting STD's from a guitar, then someone is doing something wrong in the way you're playing it. So then,... don't do that. "It's a balancing act"--- right you are. Very much so. That's what set-up is all about.

There's enough of a difference there between our spec and Gibson's spec, to where I need to tell you,... do not assume they are close enough, be very careful, there's a difference in specs.

Sorry,... re: #2 is shorthand for 'regarding' your question or point '#2' from the previous post. Models are the same, a Spank or Lester on one is the same on all. The guitars show up on Monkey as either JTV or Standard because they are separate programs. But they aren't just JTV and Standard, they each have their own identities beyond that, and the switch configuration is only part of it, and the Alt Tune differences and 3-way/5-way toggle is part of it. Looking at the Alt Tune knobs, the selections are different between 89/89F and a Standard. If you were to use a board for a 59 in a guitar with a 5-way toggle, then only three of the toggle positions will do something and the other tow positions won't. 89/89F Alt Tune selections run opposite to those of a 69. Though the Models are the same, other aspects aren't,... and that's what distinguishes one guitar from another.

Alt Tune on a 89 runs backwards on a 69, and vice-versa, "Model" comes out "Baritone". Re: #2, ever so slight. But then, I hear it 'cause I've serviced Standards and hundreds of JTV's. Switch configurations are different as well, Models are the same, how they are switch thru is different. It's not a policy issue, it's the way the software is configured for the particular guitar and its hardware.

The board maybe the same,... but the software isn't the only difference. Switch configurations are different. Put a 59 board into a 69 body, and only three of the 5-way switch positions work. Put a 69 board in an 89 guitar, and your Alt Tunes are all out of wack. Has nothing to do with selling JTV's. It's to do with hardware/software functionality. One size does not always fit all. Sorry to kill that black helicopter conspiracy theory. Part of it has to do with optimizing the Firmware with the body parameters. JTV's and Standard have different bodies, there will be a different tone colour. This tone colour difference is more apparent with the electrics put into custom bodies (SG, Flying V or their custom copies) that are drilled and wired for lefties. The first thing they notice is a difference in ton colour due to the way body resonates.

No men in black here, no black helicopters (though they are a nice ride) or black suv's,... sorry to kill the conspiracy theory. The way the data and software is, update after 2.0 are such that, the fundamental changes to the program are not backwards compatible. Taking a JTV board and putting it in a Standard may have a glitch, in that, they may be the same Model choices, but the Alt Tune selections will probably come up different than what's labeled on the knob. Each board is programmed specific for the guitar it's supposed to be in. So switch configuration or tone colour may sound different when doing something like this. "warranty can be lost",... probably. The functionality is being altered, so maybe. ... just so you know what's up with it.

The mic button labeled +48V. Plug in first, then engage it. Turn off before unplugging it.

The two programs are not compatible with one another. The newer boards will not take the older program, it is not backwards compatible. The Standard is design to connect to Workbench HD, the 300 is designed to function with Workbench, they are not cross compatible.

Turn down the volume, engage the phantom power, then turn the mic volume back up. Condenser mics require phantom power, the UX2 has phantom power,... use only for condenser mics. That's on page 2.4 in the manual (17 of 82, online manual).

What Charlie said.

I don't have a 500X yet, still enjoying my earlier gear. I go direct into the board most of the the time with the Ricki or my Variax's (two 59's, two 69's), so the tone on mine will sound different than through a 500X. The Dreadnought acoustic 12 model is nice, I own an FG230, so it compares very well to the real thing. I like using. Gives Pink Floyd's "Run Like Hell" a whole different tone colour, and Zep's "Rain Song" is really nice too. As a result of being a 12-string player, I use the 12-string models a lot when I test and check a JTV when I service and repair them.

Cool. "... I'll loosen strings on that side"--- that's one of the ways to do it. Neck sculpting on a 59 is a little different than say, a JTV-69. I own two 59's, I like that different feel. Ricki 12,... it's close, I own a '66 Ricki 370-12. Has a bit more treble, but then again, I custom rebuilt it that way.

What I said was, don't treat the 59 like a Gibson LP, they aren't the same specs. 1/8-turn increments on a truss rod is standard practice on any guitar with a truss rod, not just JTV's. Unfortunately not everyone that does their own guitars knows that, and so they end up with a warped neck. And that's not me, that's Erlewine, the guy who writes books on guitar repair. It's like when I inform people that when they change string gauges on their guitars, they need to have the set-up checked and adjusted. And then they come back with. "I can't change the strings gauges on my guitar"? Which was of course not what I had said on that occasion. People take the info I give them and turn it into something other than what it was. Just cause you quote me doesn't mean I was quoted correctly. That's why I asked the question.

"There are brand-specific truss rod specs now?"--- I don't know where you get this stuff. I'm just informing people of some standard do's and don'ts of guitar tech info. And if your read Erlewine's books, you'll see that there are players who take tech with them on the road for that very reason. Phoenix to London,... happens more often than you think. I used to crew for Iron Butterfly, so it's not unheard of. Not everyone here is as experience as you are or I. ;)

"Some post in here mentioned loosening that small allen on the back of the bridge, before the height screw would move"--- Used to be a good idea. I get away with it because I know to set it back properly. Some don't. I've done hundreds of JTV's. Some have actually snap or cross threaded the screws, then it comes to me to deal with. One of the reasons we don't post set-up info,... too many telling us they knew what they were doing, then having to send it to me because they got in too deep and couldn't get out. That's why we recommend authorized service centers for this stuff, and safe yourselves some grief.

The two screws are for setting a baseline for the intonation, don't tamper with those. Truss rod,... 1/8-turn (or less) increments at a time (a la Dan Erlewine, from one of his books),... especially with a 59. Don't go too far or you'll crack the finish at the neck- heel/body joint. It's what happens when someone sets the truss rod to a Gibson Les Paul spec. A JTV-59 is not a Gibson. Screws for the straps should be less than an inch long, or you risk going into the 3-Way toggle and short circuit the electronics. There should be a hex for setting the action at the bridge posts. Do not assume same specs as a Gibson Les Paul. That's where others have messed up (and I've had to pick up the pieces, it's not pretty). And Gibson doesn't have to deal with piezo vs magnetic interactions. Just trying to keep your gear from ending up on my bench.

Yes, what ColonelForbin said. Regular 50-Ohm XLR mic cable is the wrong thing to use. Use the AES/EBU 110-Ohm XLR cable for Line 6 Link on one of the links ColonelForbin put up there. Thank you Star Blazer.

Many times. ;)

Pick-ups run through either, depending on which mode you are in.

That too. ;)

It may just need adjusting on the relief or action on the low-E side. Fret leveling should be the last resort of last resorts. You can take away material, but you can't put it back. The last time someone tried that, it ended up on my bench, and I had to replace the neck. It wasn't pretty. And all it really needed was a set-up adjustment and neck re-alignment. He voided his warranty and we had to charge him for it.