psarkissian

The mic button labeled +48V. Plug in first, then engage it. Turn off before unplugging it.

The two programs are not compatible with one another. The newer boards will not take the older program, it is not backwards compatible. The Standard is design to connect to Workbench HD, the 300 is designed to function with Workbench, they are not cross compatible.

Turn down the volume, engage the phantom power, then turn the mic volume back up. Condenser mics require phantom power, the UX2 has phantom power,... use only for condenser mics. That's on page 2.4 in the manual (17 of 82, online manual).

What Charlie said.

I don't have a 500X yet, still enjoying my earlier gear. I go direct into the board most of the the time with the Ricki or my Variax's (two 59's, two 69's), so the tone on mine will sound different than through a 500X. The Dreadnought acoustic 12 model is nice, I own an FG230, so it compares very well to the real thing. I like using. Gives Pink Floyd's "Run Like Hell" a whole different tone colour, and Zep's "Rain Song" is really nice too. As a result of being a 12-string player, I use the 12-string models a lot when I test and check a JTV when I service and repair them.

Cool. "... I'll loosen strings on that side"--- that's one of the ways to do it. Neck sculpting on a 59 is a little different than say, a JTV-69. I own two 59's, I like that different feel. Ricki 12,... it's close, I own a '66 Ricki 370-12. Has a bit more treble, but then again, I custom rebuilt it that way.

What I said was, don't treat the 59 like a Gibson LP, they aren't the same specs. 1/8-turn increments on a truss rod is standard practice on any guitar with a truss rod, not just JTV's. Unfortunately not everyone that does their own guitars knows that, and so they end up with a warped neck. And that's not me, that's Erlewine, the guy who writes books on guitar repair. It's like when I inform people that when they change string gauges on their guitars, they need to have the set-up checked and adjusted. And then they come back with. "I can't change the strings gauges on my guitar"? Which was of course not what I had said on that occasion. People take the info I give them and turn it into something other than what it was. Just cause you quote me doesn't mean I was quoted correctly. That's why I asked the question.

"There are brand-specific truss rod specs now?"--- I don't know where you get this stuff. I'm just informing people of some standard do's and don'ts of guitar tech info. And if your read Erlewine's books, you'll see that there are players who take tech with them on the road for that very reason. Phoenix to London,... happens more often than you think. I used to crew for Iron Butterfly, so it's not unheard of. Not everyone here is as experience as you are or I. ;)

"Some post in here mentioned loosening that small allen on the back of the bridge, before the height screw would move"--- Used to be a good idea. I get away with it because I know to set it back properly. Some don't. I've done hundreds of JTV's. Some have actually snap or cross threaded the screws, then it comes to me to deal with. One of the reasons we don't post set-up info,... too many telling us they knew what they were doing, then having to send it to me because they got in too deep and couldn't get out. That's why we recommend authorized service centers for this stuff, and safe yourselves some grief.

The two screws are for setting a baseline for the intonation, don't tamper with those. Truss rod,... 1/8-turn (or less) increments at a time (a la Dan Erlewine, from one of his books),... especially with a 59. Don't go too far or you'll crack the finish at the neck- heel/body joint. It's what happens when someone sets the truss rod to a Gibson Les Paul spec. A JTV-59 is not a Gibson. Screws for the straps should be less than an inch long, or you risk going into the 3-Way toggle and short circuit the electronics. There should be a hex for setting the action at the bridge posts. Do not assume same specs as a Gibson Les Paul. That's where others have messed up (and I've had to pick up the pieces, it's not pretty). And Gibson doesn't have to deal with piezo vs magnetic interactions. Just trying to keep your gear from ending up on my bench.

Yes, what ColonelForbin said. Regular 50-Ohm XLR mic cable is the wrong thing to use. Use the AES/EBU 110-Ohm XLR cable for Line 6 Link on one of the links ColonelForbin put up there. Thank you Star Blazer.

Many times. ;)

Pick-ups run through either, depending on which mode you are in.

That too. ;)

It may just need adjusting on the relief or action on the low-E side. Fret leveling should be the last resort of last resorts. You can take away material, but you can't put it back. The last time someone tried that, it ended up on my bench, and I had to replace the neck. It wasn't pretty. And all it really needed was a set-up adjustment and neck re-alignment. He voided his warranty and we had to charge him for it.

Is the phantom power on accidentally for the mic? It shouldn't be. Does this noise occur when you are plugged in and not playing? Can you record that, just the background noise?

It's time to log a ticket with Line 6 support. Make sure your guitar is registered.

Could be the set-up, if the pick-ups are set to the wrong height too close to the strings, the magnets pull on the strings, it can sound warbly or distorted. Using Custom settings in Workbench HD, if a setting is taken too far. If a Flash update didn't quite take like it should, can sound odd. Going back to defaults can help there.

"White noise suggests a high noise floor, and that goes to gain or an impedance mismatch between devices"---- Your finger is a perfect example, it too has impedance. Input and output,... impedances must be matched between the devices being used.

Rode NT1-A is a condenser mic and so it requires phantom power, especially when using JFET and bipolar transistor circuits, or tube condensers. These components (JFET, Bipolar and Tubes) are active components and require a power source. Neumann mics, Pearlman mics and the like require a power source or phantom power. The UX1 doesn't have phantom power, but the UX2 does.

Not spam, no PTB, just good grounding practices. Check out AES journal for June 1995. Bill Whitlock is the guru. I won't bore with my curriculum vitae, it's rather lengthy. There was also a really good piece in the magazine EDN back in the day that was good. And of course there's IEEE's Spectrum, Bob Pease and his Pease Porridge and Robert Lucky's column,... that have all had some good stuff about grounding over the years. The Pensado Papers of their day, when it comes to circuits. Like I said, I get enough units back incorrectly grounded. And not just guitars (though I just got done with one an hour ago). And it's never pretty. Just trying to keep your gear from ending up on my bench.

"... has dedicated solder pads on the PCB expressly for ground return"--- You, Charlie and I know that 'cause we're circuit geeks. Not all out there are as savvy about circuits as you and I are. All grounds must be properly grouped. I get back the odd mod, now and then, that's done wrong.

It's a little deeper than that. Grounding on something like this isn't as simple as some would thing. Not the usual bill-o-fare. It's a little more complex than simple grounding. Certain things that have to be dealt with and considered for proper grounding.

What kind or brand of mic?

With the JTV, the bridge and saddle are the ground.