psarkissian

1) No, it's not BS. It's been the case with early Variax since before I came to Line 6. "The Diode blows if you ever try to plug in the battery backwards"--- 2) Yeah, backwards batteries will do it too. "Specs on that diode should not be critical at all"--- 3) Wrong. Exceeding PIV blows diodes, that's why diodes have a PIV spec in the first place, so that you know not to go beyond that. Pulling batteries when using VDI is even more important with the 700 Electric.

http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/effects-controllers/fbv-mki-mkii-controllers/the-complete-line-6-pedal-compatibility-faq-r58 ... for the full compatibility list from the Knowledge Base.

No problem. He's just off the M1, a little closer to you than E&M in Milton Keyes.

admin@markwrightmusic.com In Northampton, he used to work at Line 6 UK when we had Line 6 UK. My opposite number across The Pond. He knows the insides of these as well as I do.

If it blew like that, it may or may not have taken down the amp module(s). Polarity of these speakers is crucial or there can be even bigger problems. Please leave it to someone who knows this product through-and-through.

Bring up your Mac's "Audio Devices" to between -12dB to -6dB, it's where I usually set my UX1's and UX2's,... -46.50dB seems a bit low. Bring up gradually.

Probably don't need to yet. But you might want to at least have it looked at by authorized tech. Looks like it's been a while. Cars need regular maintenance check-ups, and so do tube amps. May need nothing more than just a slight tweak of something.

The Advanced Guide gets into those functions,... РаÑширенное руководÑтво попадает в Ñти функции, ... http://line6.com/support/manuals/spiderjam Downloads and software updates are at,... Файлы Ð´Ð»Ñ Ð·Ð°Ð³Ñ€ÑƒÐ·ÐºÐ¸ и Ð¾Ð±Ð½Ð¾Ð²Ð»ÐµÐ½Ð¸Ñ Ð¿Ñ€Ð¾Ð³Ñ€Ð°Ð¼Ð¼Ð½Ð¾Ð³Ð¾ обеÑÐ¿ÐµÑ‡ÐµÐ½Ð¸Ñ Ð½Ð° ... http://line6.com/software/

Translation--- Good afternoon! How to see what firmware is installed, and how to upgrade?

1) Connect the JTV, interface and computer as you normally would to do an update. 2) Put in a fully charge JTV battery into the battery compartment. 3) Insert a TRS (Tip/ Ring/ Sleeve) 1/4" headphone adapter or short patch cord into the 1/4" jack to engage the battery. There will be a click sound coming from a switch in the guitar and the LED will turn green when it engages the circuitry. 4) When both LED's turn green, proceed with the update process. If at anytime during the update process, one of the LED's starts blinking red, unplug and then re-plug in the 1/4" TRS plug and lick on change device. This re-initializes the device in Monkey. When both LED's are green, do the update again.

In Alt Tune, and that string is not in standard tuning,... maybe. More than likely intonation or action on that string. There are many reasons for it, so it should be looked at by a tech to determine which one. No rip in the time/space continuum, just being experienced at working on hundreds of these JTV guitars, and having seen and dealt with the afore mentioned quirks first hand for the reasons mentioned. And being a JTV-69, string height to pole piece can be changed for each individual string through the saddle adjustment. So it's quite possible that it's just that string that is the only one out of adjustment. Needs to be looked at by a tech to narrow down what it is. Good observation, keep up the good work.

Tremolo effect can be,... -Dual tone effect, where you are hearing both the standard tune note coming off the guitar and the Alt Tune note through the amp. -Warbling can occur if the pick-ups are not adjusted to the correct height below the strings and the magnet pulls on it while it's vibrating. This effect can be exaggerated in Model mode with Alt Tune. -It can also be that the intonation needs to be dialed-in a little tighter. Or could be some other aspect of the set-up. "I don't think it's a mechanical issue, or you'd hear it everywhere"--- normally I would agree with crusinon2 (good call), but when in Alt Tune, depending on which Alt Tune is selected,... not every string is in alternate tuning, and may still be in standard tuning. That would still need to be determined.

Okay then, that fine. When that's the case, it's how you know that, between that and bias,... ... that's as close as it gets.

He doesn't need to throw anything out. It's just about learning a few inner details of function. I own four JTV's and two X3 Lives, and have no problems with using them in conjunction with Gearbox, or Workbench. I just had to get deeper into the manual for certain function on the Edit page.

"I've bought my EH el84's in matched quartets, and then used a pair at a time"--- That works, that's fine. The differences you're seeing is normal and expected, that's what dialing-in the bias is all about. You can try taking the tubes and switching them to opposite sockets between them and see if it brings the differences a little closer. It's an old analog tube amp trick used since the 1960's, used with push-pull class tube amps back in the day. Sometimes,... sometimes it's useful.

There would also be info about it in the X3 Live manual online.

You're talking about Force Mode on the X3 Live?

Saving JTV patches can be done thru Workbench HD and the interface device (and cables) that came with the Variax Standard. Gearbox should open on an X3 Live. I run both on my bench to test Variax, JTV's and Standards. I save patches using Workbench (for Variax and pre v2.00 JTV's) and use Workbench HD (for v2.00 or later JTV's and Standards). All on PC with Windows 7.

I own a 300 electric and four JTV's, (2) 69's and (2) 59's. Being something of a Gibson kind of guy, I love my 59's. Run them thru GX, UX1 or UX2 interface, or an X3 Live. Not a good idea to run VDI and 1/4" at the same time, it's not designed for that kind of current draw. I'm also the guy at Line 6 who works on JTV's, so I know. The other thing is, if you try running magnetics while in Alt Tune,... one will be in alternate tunings and the magnetics won't be. Use Workbench HD to customize Model patches.

"... L6Link recommend a cable no longer than 50 feet (approx. 15 metres)"---- And that has to do with impedance,... impedance is crucial. Use the wrong impedance version of the cable and it won't work right. When it comes to an AES/EBU signal application like this, for whatever product, by whatever company, the 110-Ohm cable that is specified, has to be used. There are no substitutes, it's one of the AES/EBU inter-connectivity standards for this application. Impedance matching between devices is everything here.

Nos402,... log a ticket with customer support in your account. When they come to me I will recommend it come here for evaluation. I have an idea or two about that, but I would want to evaluate your guitar first, before I go shooting my mouth off any further.

Or a flat cable between the main board and UI board, might have a connector crimp starting wear, or if the retainer nuts on the pots aren't snug, there could be an intermittent chassis ground,...... A whole host of things,... so it needs to be checked out by an authorized tech who knows the product and has access to service info. It's not our father's analog tube amp anymore. This is a tube amp with high voltage shock hazard. Do not go into it,... leave it to the pros who know the inner workings of this product.

Need the interface. Go back to where you got the guitar and have them get you one. Shouldn't be that hard for them. That should have been in your accessories pack along with the CAT5 cable for hooking the guitar to the interface.

And like any large power amp, never turn it on without a correct speaker load connected to it. Amps don't like opens or shorts on their outputs.

No,... all four will work, they are hooked up as pairs in the cabinet. Amp 8-Ohm right to the speaker 8-Ohm right, amp 8-Ohm left to the speaker 8-Ohm left. Leave the 16-Ohm alone, don't use it.