psarkissian

Keep up the good work. This is the place to exchange info. Rock-n-roll.

So the formula is YY/(MM-1)? No,... not quite.

Yes,... the dimensions are such that the B7 is the one that works. stevekc or anthonylee could give you more details on that.

Just remember, that Line 6 won't support mods that affect the function of the product. So any guitar coming to me for servicing has a 50/50 chance of being returned untouched,... depending on the mod. Hasn't happened yet with stevekc, have serviced his guitar,... very nice. But then he's one of about five people in the Americas I trust to do a mod without messing it up. For me, it's convenient, since he's just up the highway from me. And edstar1960,... since you're in the UK, you might want to look up Tim Morgan, Shane Blower or Mark Wright, they are in the midlands around Northampton and Warickshire, and were the guitar guys when we had Line 6 UK in Rugby. They're mates and they know their stuff when it comes to Variax and JTV's. They can tell you what works and what doesn't.

Ground lift,... if it sounds like a dial up modem or fax machine squeal, then there a ground lift somewhere, and it's allowing the clock or data stream to demodulate onto the audio line. Now it's a matter of finding out at what point,... guitar? cable? or amp? Take it all to the shop, so they can go thru the entire signal chain, narrow it down and tease it out.

snhirsch,... good to be skeptical, it's even better to have the experience that I have with this product and it's circuitry. Keep up the good work. silverhead has a good point, something to keep in mind. The adjustable input impedance is on the 1/4-inch guitar input and not doesn't affect VDI. Good thing to remember.

... or a problem with the guitar cable or its TRS plug.

I far as know, the manual doesn't suggest doing it either. But as I mentioned before, it pulls current in a way that it's not design for, and that will put stress on some of the circuitry. There is also the problem using the Alt Tune function with this kind of hook up. The magnetics don't go thru the same pitch shift function that the piezo signals do. The magnetics will be in tune, and the piezo signal would be pitch shifted.

Close, but not quite,... it's not JTX, it's JTV. Stands for James Tyler Variax. "first four number tell you the year and month of manufacture. YYMM...So 1202 is Feb 2012"--- Close,... good guess,... actually 1202 would be January 2012. Yes,... "W" is for World Music in Korea. I own four JTV's with "W" numbers,... love 'em all. Sharp crowd here,... I like it.

Fortunately, the afore mentioned people I know are guitar geek colleagues. Get someone who's work you know and trust. I agree, "caveat emptor".

Yeah, there are alternatives out there. Some work better than others. Be aware of what you are all getting into. Go to someone who has experience with JTV's. Like Charlie said, get a Luthier to do the job,... if you are going the modification route. There's maybe five people in the Americas and three or four in the UK, that I trust to do a custom mod on JTV,... and not mess it up. I've done my share of custom rebuilds on guitar over the last four decades (or more), so I get the desire to want to modify stuff. These JTV's are a different kind of cat, you have to cuddle it under the chin a little differently. And a reminder that, Line 6 doesn't support mods on our product. Just so you all have the heads up on that and are aware.

I get why crusinon2 would think that. I'm part of Line 6 repair, and the guy who services JTV's here, it's part of my job to know these things. So I know that samsgs' guitar has the current spec neck and any replacement 69 neck will have the same spec. It's part of my job to know these things.

samsgs,... your JTV has the current spec neck, replacing the neck as suggested would not solve any hi-E slip,... in your case. String nut, and/or neck alignment, by a tech (preferably an authorized tech) would be the recommendation. They could also do general overall check outs while they are at it.

I work on JTV's all day, mostly the Korean ones, and I get my share of US ones. They are both nice in different ways, so I would have a hard time choosing between them. The guys who do the US builds know their stuff, and I know their work, pretty good.

The Hi-E slip was a neck spec thing, and the spec has long since been updated.

I've serviced literally hundreds of JTV's (my dissenters haven't), I've seen all the ways the circuit boards fail, and seen too many of them. It's not pretty. The boards are not designed to do a dual output split. Might get away with it for a time, but parts of the circuitry meant to regulate current can get stressed and fail over prolonged use in that way. Best use it according to the user manual and Knowledge Base. Better safe than sorry.

Since part of this is associated with how far up the neck you're going, then it sounds like the set-up (relief, action, intonation and such) needs to be fine adjusted and dialed-in. Warbling occurs when you are in Model mode and the pick-ups are too close to the strings, and the magnet field pull on the strings. And that goes to dialing in the set-up as well. The climate between the distribution point and your location is probably enough to have an affect on the set-up. Take it to the nearest authorized service center, the adjustments. Set-up on a guitar with both magnetics and piezos has a couple of extra things to be aware of, and the authorized service center will have the access to the info to deal with that.

Could be any of three different things that could be causing that. Program board is one of them, so it's not something that can be done by an end user. Needs to go to a Line 6 authorized service center. They will have access to service documentation,... and me to walk them thru it, should they need it.

Are you using the cable that came with The guitar? That is for using with the USB interface device and not for playing through. it's for doing updates and for using with the Workbench HD applications. There is a 25ft cable with a Cannon XLR type of shell on both ends with the mod connector in it, that is cable for playing through. It should latch so that it doesn't get loose in the socket like that. It should never be that loose on the guitar side like that,... unless you're using the program interface cable or regular everyday CAT5 cable. Both of which is the wrong cable.

Ditto that. It's a very individual thing, it's what fits you, not somebody else. Go out and play different Variax guitars with a variety of amps, and see what gives you your sound that speaks to you and your musical voice. It sometimes takes some trial and experimenting to finds one's own musical identity.

Best bet is to use the Variax USB Interface widget (and its connecting cable set), instead of using an HD500X as an interface, when connecting to a computer.

Intelman07,.... yours doesn't fall within the time period. Those were earlier ones, it was a batch thing. Yours isn't one of them. So transformers going out on later ones would be for different reasons than the earlier ones. Something else is going on there with it. Have one at my bench going on 2-years, works great, no problems. Changing power tubes without proper biasing can create problems. Changing out to something other than the specified power tubes can have issues. Many of the ones that come across my bench have different tubes in them because they want to hot-rod the hot-rod, (using Mesa, JJ, or Groove Tube,... without correct biasing) and end up blowing something. One bias doesn't fit all. These aren't the same kind of tube amps like in the 1960's, you can't go swapping out power tubes, drop-in-and-go. It's a different beast. Changing a fuse out won't correct the reason for the fuse going out in the first place. The root cause will have to be checked out by an authorized service center that knows the product.

Do not touch the fuse with your fingers while it is in the fuse holder,.... ... even with the power off. Capacitors will discharge into your fingers. It hurts like hell. Leave it to a trained tech with tube amp experience. If a fuse blows, then it means that something is wrong. Changing the fuse doesn't solve the source of why blew in the first place, so it will blow again at some point. Leave it to a trained tech with tube amp experience.

What kind of mic are you using? Are you using +48Vdc Phantom Power? What amp or mixing console are you going into?

When changing string gauges, be sure to go and get the set-up checked after a few days, as changing gauges will change the tension,... and that will affect the set-up (relief, action, intonation and such). It may, or may not need to be dialed-in a slight bit after changing string gauges.