psarkissian
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Everything posted by psarkissian
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Don't do it, they are not designed for that kind of use, they're made for high fidelity stereo, not high power guitar stuff. I used to sell and service JBL speakers and other of their products, I even worked there a while. I know their stuff. Don't use them with a DT series amp. They aren't made for that. If you buy them, use them for something else. If you plug them into the DT and at some point the speakers blow, it will take the amp down with it,.... and that will cost several times more than $100.
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Noise floor. Ground loops are possible,... depending on what else is in the signal path and how it's plugged in,
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volume for mags
psarkissian replied to MIKEY9966's topic in James Tyler Variax Guitars / Workbench HD
They relays inside are Model or TRS, not both. And if you could split it you would have the effects that Steve mentions, and circuit load issues relating to amplitudes. The circuitry isn't designed for loading down like that. -
Can't bias the JJ's to the same bias voltages. The transfer function curve and multiple topology gain structure of DT series amps is not good for JJ's, Mesa's and Groove tubes. I see too many DT series amps come across my bench because of other tubes being put in the amp and biased to the same bias volts as if they were EH tubes. These are not tube amps of the 1960's and '70's, you can't get away with the same kind of tube swapping like we used to do back then. These are hybrid amps with analog and digital stages, both solid state and tube. Can't get away with the same sort of things like we did back then. Please,... use the specified EH series. They've gone through a further sorting through.
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Depending on how much you play and how hard you drive the amp,... ... tubes should be swapped out every 12-18 months if you're a gigging musician, if you're living room rock star who plays at home on the weekends, then every 20-24 months should suffice. I've seen new tubes last two weeks, I've seen new tubes last 5-years. No matter how well the tubes are scrutinized and checked at the factory, there is always the element of chance. It's like that with all electronics. If it's been a year and you're a gigging musician, then it's probably time to change the tubes out. Use the specified tubes, matched pair power tubes. Sorry, but I'm going to say it, take it to Line 6 authorized tech to check and make sure that if the tubes did go down, that it didn't take anything else down with it. Basic good idea for any piece of electronics gear, tube or solid state.
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What tubes are they? Brand, type, and all.
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Best cable for Line 6 link between HD500x and DT25
psarkissian replied to patrick2099's topic in DT50 / DT25
Yes, Mogami is good too. -
Best cable for Line 6 link between HD500x and DT25
psarkissian replied to patrick2099's topic in DT50 / DT25
Don't use 50-Ohm mic cable, that's the wrong stuff to use. Line 6 Link cable is optimal, or the Hosa EBU-010 AES/EBU Digital Audio Cable will do. Both hold to the 110-Ohm, AES/EBU Standard for that kind of cable. -
Pod X3 displays message: "UPDATE FLASH" ... and won't turn off.
psarkissian replied to mythhealer's topic in POD X3
Was there an interruption during an update? Try re-Flashing it. If that doesn't work, log a ticket in the ticketing system to get a return authorization to get it serviced. -
I would suspect,... ... that there are a number of other repairs in the line. Don't know where in the line yours was. It shouldn't take that long, but sometimes it does. Rare, but it happens. They probably gave yours some extra looking over and extra testing as well. That might take a while longer than usual as a result. And since they replace some electronics, depending on where the parts shipped from, that would also add to the time.
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Had one in for service once. Wasn't too bad, but had a smidgen of stuff on a set of coat 11-48 gauge set. Come off without any problems. Still, something to be aware of. Rare,... very rare.
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XL110 by D'Addario are the factory strings 10-46 gauge. If you decide to change string gauges, by sure you get the set-up adjusted for the change in string tension. Those coated type of strings may leave coating behind in the works over time. Hasn't been a problem that much,... yet. Mostly, it's what feels good to the touch, the tone, how bendy it is for those who do bends.
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It's fine so long as the the correct string is going down it's correct signal path. The string/piezo is matched to the correct signal path, or there will be frequency artifacts on some of the Models. To get any more particular or deeper than that, go to Julius Orion Smith III's web link at CCMRA at Stanford University. He teaches processing and Modeling. I've gone as deep into the circuit concepts as I'm allowed to. Since the bridge and electronics were replaced and the problem is still there, then something other than the bridge/piezos and electronics is involved.
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The electronics were replaced and there is still a problem, then process of elimination points to something else non-electronic. And messing around in there without schematics and service info is not a good idea. There would be other frequency artifacts that would occur as a result of swapping wire like that. Some Model settings would be more noticeable than others.
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Regarding sending a piezo wire to another string doesn't mean anything. Each string has it's own signal line. The processor will treat the E-string as if it were the A-string, so of that signal path won't sound right. The processor knows which string is which, it expects to have the correct string on the correct signal path line. If the bridge and its piezos are replaced and it didn't solve the problem, then the problem is not the bridge and its piezos. If the electronics were replaced and it didn't solve the problem, then the problem is not the electronics. Process of elimination. That narrows it down to something mechanical.
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Thanks.
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#2 thru #6,... are saying this was done? Or are you asking if it was done? In the meantime, I will look into the service history further.
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#6- The work order I saw said that some electronics were replaced don't know specifics beyond that.
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For warbling, double check the pick-up height to the strings. If they're too close, they can pull on the strings, and in Model mode, it induces a warble effect that the piezos can pick up on. And yes, it is exaggerated when in an Alt Tune tuning.
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I've found that the 3.5-Meg Ohm input is the noisier one. Tend to not use it. Some players like though. There was a lower Z-in setting I showed Robert Sarzo once,... he liked it. Not as much noise floor.
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The FFT displays are nice, but nothing to show me how your test is set-up. As you have pointed out,... not 100% objective. The You Tube is a good start, but I can't see what or how you are doing what you are doing. The piezo FFT indicates transients the you have labeled. That would point to something with the piezo and/or something before the piezo. The only thing before the piezo is mechanical. Therefore, not DSP or output, or electronic,... therefore, not the Firmware. Firmware models the guitar it is meant to model. Modeling is a template, a mask thru which the signal passes thru. There is a ring in the You Tube audio. I sound like that when I flat-pick. Part of the reason I finger-pick (which is most of the time). As you pointed out, this occurs even when,... not connected. The mechanical is the source, the electronics are the processor/amplifier. Make use of an equaliser to band-reject the frequency set you find objectionable. It's about sculpting that sound.
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Taking the signal from the piezo or the DSP is not indicative of the output. The output has gone thru the processing and amplfiers. The piezo has not. No label as to if it's the DSP output, or a chip at the input.
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The electronics may amplify the problem, But, if this occurs even when the guitar is not plugged in, then the source is not electronic,... it's mechanical.
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"... is audible even when the guitar is unconnected"--- If it's doing that when it's unconnected, then the comment earlier about it not being electronic or Firmware, means that it's mechanical in nature. The electronics only put out what is inputted into it.
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A You Tube audio,... now there is something usable. A video watching you do it, would be even better. I'll mull this over. In the meantime, make use of the equalisers on the HD500 to trim out a frequency profile more in keeping with what you are looking for.
