psarkissian

I've serviced literally hundreds of JTV's (my dissenters haven't), I've seen all the ways the circuit boards fail, and seen too many of them. It's not pretty. The boards are not designed to do a dual output split. Might get away with it for a time, but parts of the circuitry meant to regulate current can get stressed and fail over prolonged use in that way. Best use it according to the user manual and Knowledge Base. Better safe than sorry.

Since part of this is associated with how far up the neck you're going, then it sounds like the set-up (relief, action, intonation and such) needs to be fine adjusted and dialed-in. Warbling occurs when you are in Model mode and the pick-ups are too close to the strings, and the magnet field pull on the strings. And that goes to dialing in the set-up as well. The climate between the distribution point and your location is probably enough to have an affect on the set-up. Take it to the nearest authorized service center, the adjustments. Set-up on a guitar with both magnetics and piezos has a couple of extra things to be aware of, and the authorized service center will have the access to the info to deal with that.

Could be any of three different things that could be causing that. Program board is one of them, so it's not something that can be done by an end user. Needs to go to a Line 6 authorized service center. They will have access to service documentation,... and me to walk them thru it, should they need it.

Are you using the cable that came with The guitar? That is for using with the USB interface device and not for playing through. it's for doing updates and for using with the Workbench HD applications. There is a 25ft cable with a Cannon XLR type of shell on both ends with the mod connector in it, that is cable for playing through. It should latch so that it doesn't get loose in the socket like that. It should never be that loose on the guitar side like that,... unless you're using the program interface cable or regular everyday CAT5 cable. Both of which is the wrong cable.

Ditto that. It's a very individual thing, it's what fits you, not somebody else. Go out and play different Variax guitars with a variety of amps, and see what gives you your sound that speaks to you and your musical voice. It sometimes takes some trial and experimenting to finds one's own musical identity.

Best bet is to use the Variax USB Interface widget (and its connecting cable set), instead of using an HD500X as an interface, when connecting to a computer.

Intelman07,.... yours doesn't fall within the time period. Those were earlier ones, it was a batch thing. Yours isn't one of them. So transformers going out on later ones would be for different reasons than the earlier ones. Something else is going on there with it. Have one at my bench going on 2-years, works great, no problems. Changing power tubes without proper biasing can create problems. Changing out to something other than the specified power tubes can have issues. Many of the ones that come across my bench have different tubes in them because they want to hot-rod the hot-rod, (using Mesa, JJ, or Groove Tube,... without correct biasing) and end up blowing something. One bias doesn't fit all. These aren't the same kind of tube amps like in the 1960's, you can't go swapping out power tubes, drop-in-and-go. It's a different beast. Changing a fuse out won't correct the reason for the fuse going out in the first place. The root cause will have to be checked out by an authorized service center that knows the product.

Do not touch the fuse with your fingers while it is in the fuse holder,.... ... even with the power off. Capacitors will discharge into your fingers. It hurts like hell. Leave it to a trained tech with tube amp experience. If a fuse blows, then it means that something is wrong. Changing the fuse doesn't solve the source of why blew in the first place, so it will blow again at some point. Leave it to a trained tech with tube amp experience.

What kind of mic are you using? Are you using +48Vdc Phantom Power? What amp or mixing console are you going into?

When changing string gauges, be sure to go and get the set-up checked after a few days, as changing gauges will change the tension,... and that will affect the set-up (relief, action, intonation and such). It may, or may not need to be dialed-in a slight bit after changing string gauges.

As long as the neck pick-up isn't too close to the strings, there should not be any problems from warbling while in in Models mode.

“Belden 1305A is not only an Ethernet cable of highest quality, but is also made in with a unique jacketing design that makes the cable highly flexibleâ€--- the reason to go to this far with cable design, in this particular case, is that Ethernet cable like this is flat. If you twist it and the field orientation changes, then the impedance will have slight changes. That’s why nobody uses “Twin Lead†for antenna cable anymore, and pot for coax when dealing with these frequency ranges. VDI cable is encased in a round insulation to keep this down to a minimum. Beldin also has a Firewire Audio that they came out with a few short years ago with the trunking insulation that also keeps the twist of the four leads, down to a minimum or no twist at all. The more leads, the more complicated it becomes. For more about Firewire Audio, 1305, and cables in general,… check out books by Steve Lampen of Beldin Cable, or email him at Beldin (just not all of you at once). He’s always happy to give tips to audio people about the fine points of cables. “PLEASE do not buy into any of the nonsense about oxygen-impregnated, helical wound cable manufactured by virgins under a full moon somehow sounding betterâ€---- Yes,… what “snhirsch†said. Oxygen doesn’t enhance conductance, it makes it worse, especially at contact points, oxidised contacts just ‘F’ things up. Don’t waste money on expensive esoteric cables. Monster cable is nice, but unless you have an audiophile set up with a 128dB signal-to-noise-ratio (SNR) system,… another 2dB of SNR won’t mean anything because the human hear can’t hear a difference in power change below 2dB anyway. VDI cable is better than plain Ethernet because of the Cannon casings on both ends that gives good mechanic contact to the connections, keeping wiggle and intermittent contacts to a minimum. Line6 Link is an AES/EBU, 110-Ohm cable for use with Line 6 products that have Line6 Link capabilities. DO NOT use 50-Ohm mic cable for Line 6 Link applications. AES/EBU 50-Ohm Balanced Line is for use with low impedance mic applications. Do not confuse this with 110-Ohm Line 6 Link. It would be bad. As Venkman said, "... don't cross the streams",.... and don't confuse these cables or their applications.

It's not about plausible deniability, it's about getting the set-up right on the guitar. There are piezos and magnetics that have to live together on the guitar, and the Alt Tune adds to the complexity, so it all has to be dialed-in a little more than the average guitar. I see too many come across my bench that don't need to. I'm trying to keep these guitars from winding up on my bench unnecessarily if they don't have to. So going with an authorized service center with access to service documents is the best way to go. And that keeps trial and error to a minimum,... especially the error part. Thanks for your concern.

Oh crusinon2,... we're aren't necessarily that strict about that with something like set-up. ;) It's just better than hit-n-miss or hunt-n-peck, than not having the right specs. :) Dealing with pick-up/piezo combinations can be a trick for the uninitiated, so I get a number of them in for service with set-up problems, because someone got in over their heads. No secret sauce, just better less problems going with someone with the specs and procedures. Rock-n-roll!

I use the acoustic 12-string model in standard and Alt Tune to test and check things like warbling, whistling howls and dual tone. Very handy that way. Warbling,... pick-up height needs to be adjusted. Pick-up's magnetic field is pulling on the strings in a way that warps the frequency a bit. Whistling howls,... dial in the intonation a little tighter. Best to use a precision tuner, like a Peterson brand tuner. Dual tones,... could be a number of reasons for that. Set-up, loose hardware and such. Best take that in for service to narrow that one down. Always a good idea to take the guitar to a Line 6 authorized service center, as they will have access to service info, specs and testing documents. And you won't risk voiding your warranty,... a win-win.

They are frequency blocks,... http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/live-sound/relay-digital-wireless/rf1rf2-mode-switching-frequencies-r130 It's not so much frequency hopping as it is frequency allocation. Fitting many frequencies in a limited band and not have one step on the other.

The guy you bought the tubes from might think +/- 3mV is fine for matched pair tubes, but it's over the bias spec for DT50's. I get too many DT50's across my bench that are blown because of using JJ's, Mesa and the occasional Groove tube. Part of that is incorrect biasing. These aren't the same old tube amps we used to have in the 1960's and 70's. Can't get away with doing the same kinds of tube swaps we used to do back then. Best stick with the EH's and have it biased correctly by a Line 6 authorized service who will have the correct test and service info.

This is the reason I tell people to use the EH tubes and not JJ's, Groove Tubes or Mesa. A bias range+/- 3mV is too much. Bias distortions may occur. Use the specified tubes. These are not tube amps from the 1960's where you can get away with tube swapping like this.

Full Compass has JTV piezos. JTV-59/69/89, all use the same piezos. It's the JTV-89F piezos that are different.

Re-writing the program for you defeats the purpose of Modeling. So they aren't going to do that. And I've given my advice on the mechanical aspects, et al. Equaliser in the floor effects, you can notch out the desired frequency. Workbench HD, you can adjust parameters to your liking. Like any guitar,you start with what it is then adjust the settings to where you want it. Equaliser and Workbench HD, both are tools to make use of. I can't force you to take my advice,... whether you do is up to you.

Yes, and it was given. Whether you choose to accept it,... is up to you. And as the JTV tech, I've made my recommendations. Now, it's matter of choosing to take or not take those recommendations.

LeBenoist, What bit depth are you using? I ask because I've come across circumstances with DAW's where, if you use 44.1-kHz, it will only give 16-bit data as an option. If one wanted to use 24-bit, it didn't give 44.1-kHz as a sample rate option. I don't know if that is the case here.

"I used POD HD500 - input impedance 3.5 Mohm"---- snhirsch,... and to add to that, I have found the 3.5 Meg-Ohm input impedance to be one of the settings with a higher noise floor. Think I've mentioned that in an earlier response here or in another thread post. snhirsch,... as for the DSP, he would need a schematic or a chip data sheet. And even then there would be too many external component variables and voltage pull down points to be as accurate as would be needed,... would be approximation at best. Interesting, but it doesn't solve his problem, made more complicating by the methodology of the way the experiment is being implemented. snhirsch, et al,...Signals would have to be picked off from input and output amps and compared. Problem with that is that per-processed input and post processed output are different, so you'd be comparing apples with oranges (as the saying goes). Good idea, but how valid the methodology of the experiment is,... well, not bad considering the tools used, but not quite there, yet. Need better tools and inside knowledge of the algorithm and workings and a schematic, for it to be where these experiments could be. It's a nice start, nice effort though.

Venting is okay, but now we're getting down to it. Thanks. The battery will eventually drain away over time if you leave it in the guitar. How soon does it drain? Also, before doing the insert into the knob, try engaging it with the knob off, and see if it lights up that way. That will tell me whether the knob is hanging up or if it is something else. Is the knob or shaft wobbly or snug?

Modeled from a vintage (not a re-issue) 1959 Strat. Yeah, Clapton, Beck or Trower. There's always making use of equalisers and/or Workbench HD to sculpt it further to get that. Presets are a starting point, not an end to itself.