psarkissian

Not the come line, but years of experience with these products, and decades with other electronics, seeing most every way they fail. I used to crew for Iron Butterfly (1975-79), if that gives you some idea how far back I go. Keep those connections tight, a loosy-goosy can give you a spike. And that's bad for the supply rail of the guitar. In the meantime, make some music and rock on gear fab.

silverhead is right. The HD version of Workbench is for JTV Firmware versions 2.00 or later. Use regular Workbench for versions prior to that. Thanks silverhead.

There are rubber inserts underneath the end caps. End caps are to keep from damaging the top and bottom. They also help minimize cabinet vibrations. It also acts to keep the cabinet acoustically isolated to minimize acoustical loading of the ground, floor or mounting surface being used. Do not remove the end caps. If you do and the rubber inserts get lost or damaged, acoustical problems can occur when you try to mount or position the speakers for performance. And those rubber inserts have to be re-installed correctly. If they are lost or damaged, I don't know how easy it will be to replace them. And they would have to be re-install by someone who knows this product from the inside-out. It will also mess with the overall EQ of the sound. The Modeling is designed for the acoustics of the speakers as is. Modifying that will change the EQ of you overall sound, and the sound artifacts that go with it. So, in a nutshell,... please don't do that. Please.

I don't see a support ticket or a registered product,... do you have more than one account in the ticketing system? Tickets don't get deleted, they do get automatically archived after a certain amount of time,... which can be re-opened. I don't see any archived tickets.

-Check the "Input" and make sure you have the correct device selected. -Check the "Output", "Match Studio/ Direct" is a common setting. -Down arrow and check the sample rate to make certain it matches the sample rate of the DAW or sound-card you are using. -Check the sound device selector on your computer to be certain that is set correctly.

Bottom line,... use the specified tubes. Yes RealZap, there are reasons for that. I could get into a long dissertation on that, and a list of examples of what has come across our benches. The consequences are that these amps end up on our benches. -It has to do with characteristic curves of the tube specs. -The way Bogner designs the amp sections. -Spider Valve, Alchemist and the DT series have a digital section for processing, so these are basically hybrid amps. -Since these are hybrid amps, you can't get away with the same kind of tube swapping like we used to do back in the 1960's and 1970's. -You can't use the same bias on other tubes as you do with the EH's. -EH's go through more scrutiny. Consequences are red plating which damages tubes and surrounding circuitry, blown digital boards and other such failures. Bottom line,... use the specified tubes. And RealZap,... keep up the good work.

Here's what you do,... plug into the interface, make sure there's a full charged battery in the guitar, take a 1/4" adapter from a headphone and plug it in the TRS 1/4", this engages the battery. The relays should click and both LED's should be green. Re-Flash the guitar.

-MIDI time outs, usually accompanied by a red blinking LED, typically a transmission error of some kind. -When you re-Flash, if the prompt asks if you want to save patches, click "No", because you don't want to save a set of patches with errors, if there are any. -Trying to use an effects floor product as an update interface device, instead of the JTV Interface can cause connecting and handshake problems. Use the JTV interface. -General internet communications glitches that can occur.

Make sure you have two green LED's on the JTV interface during the entire Flash update (or re-Flash) procedure. If you get a Red blinking LED, then re-initialize by clicking on "Change Device" on Monkey, and re-Flash it again.

The device under the knob is the same, so the Models will come up in the same order, in the same way. However, the stop points on either end are such, that the Model labels on the knob won't line-up perfectly with the select LED indicator (just tried it on one of my test fixtures). So, there may be some confusion which Model is engaged until you play it (or it come up on the display of your multi effects floor unit, if you have one). Aside from those caveats, should work fine.

Older part like that is not available anymore. Same with other parts for the 500. Palico's idea is an option.

WXT has the cup on the bottom the WGC doesn't. Use the WXT if you have the amp with the the bear trap or clamp type retainers. WXT are good for amps with the spring retainers, since the base cup helps counter any pressure from the springs. With taller tubes, the spring pressure was enough to crack a tube during transport. 5881 vs 6L6WGC (or WXT),.... 1) Bias won't be the same between them because,... 2) the characteristic curves are slightly different, and so,... 3) you can't get away with the same sort of swapping we used to get away with back in the 1960's and 1970's. This is a different beast. Be aware, it may work now,... but later,... that's another thing. And how hard you run it,... that factors into it as well. 12AX7B is fine, anything else is fancy, and unnecessary overkill, but it will work, it's th s small signal pre-amp stage.

I tested it on a JTV-59 with Flash v2.00 and v2.21, it’s less apparent when using Flash v2.21 (the latest and current). It sounds like the effect is a quirk of filtering processes,… -The pick-ups are inductors with a magnet. Passive Filters- inductor, capacitor and resistor are passive components, and create a “first-order†passive resonant filter circuit. -In Model mode, the filter is built around a function block, and if there is an amp (real or virtual) involved, then it creates an active filter circuit. Since it is an active filter, it is automatically a “second order†filter. -Passive filters are smooth across the frequency response band. Neve uses this in their mixing consoles, it’s a smooth response, and then they send that output to an amplifier, allowing gain changes and still maintaining that smooth response. -Active filters have emphasis and de-emphasis just before the roll-off frequency point. Synthesizers use this by exaggerating the emphasis and de-emphasis to create undulating filter sweeps, by cascading “second order†filters into one another to create extreme filter sweeps. The Chebyshev response curve is the one that is the smoother of the active filters, is stable and easier to control, and keeps ripple and emphasis to a minimum,… which is why some of us like using them in audio circuits. It’s how some Wah-Wah's works,… volume/tone pot is tied into an active circuit making it an active filter, changing the cut-off point or the Q-factor (gain at the resonance point). The more orders of active filter, the more extreme the effect you can get out of it. Sounds like what capdoogie is experiencing is an ultralight version of active filtering in Model mode vs passive pick-ups. Like I said earlier, less apparent with Flash v2.21 program.

Or,.... Log a ticket, get an RMA, and send it here to Line 6. The tech here who does the old Variax guitars has a couple jack assemblies,... he can install one (and check other stuff too while he's in it). I just asked him about it. Modifying a JTV assembly to fit can be done, but it's also a can of worms if you're not an experienced tech or circuit person.

Open a ticket, get an RMA and take it to your nearest authorized Line 6 service person. When you do take it in, take the guitar, cables and accessories and the HD500, so they can go through it all an "fine-tooth-comb-it" along the entire signal chain. They will have access to service data and info. BTW,... I'm acquainted with silverhead, he knows his stuff.

That too,... yeah.

Rewolf48,... yes. Using a regular CAT5 cable, it can jiggle and wiggle, and that can (and often does) bend and damage the pins in the VDI jack (in older Variax and JTV). And that can (and often does) damage or short out circuitry. We see this all the time. We've been telling everyone about this since the days of the early Variax guitars, to use the correct cable for the correct use. My lab mate has dealt with early Variax from the start, and I've serviced hundreds (literally, so I've lost count) of JTV's from its beginnings. We've seen too many bent pins in VDI jacks and too many shorted out boards,... please, use the correct cable for the correct use. Been doing this a long time (and I count in decades, not years). I have an old 300 Electric and four JTV's, only VDI's on them and never had a problem. I don't care what brand of VDI you use, just use a VDI cable. It will save you a lot of grief later. And it will keep your guitars from ending up on my bench.

That jack in the link is a JTV-69,... it won't fit physically and the electronic connections are not the same. Parts for JTV's are NOT interchangeable with the older Variax guitars (300/500/600/700). Do not use regular CAT5 cable,... use the VDI cable with the casing. Regular CAT5 will just wiggle around inside the jack, pins get bent and boards get shorted out. We wee this all too often here,... please, don't become a statistic. We've been warning people about that for years. And I think there may be something about that in the Pilot's Handbook. We see this on our tech benches all too often,.... use the proper VDI cable. Take the 500 Electric to an authorized Line 6 service center, or Line 6 itself. Don't try to open this can yourself,... leave it to the pros.

The Equalizer (EQ).

When you see a message like that, it's usually a time-out error of some sort. Re-Flash it.

That would do it too. Bravo.

Re-Flash it, do it again. It may take a couple of tries until you get a "update successful" message. Make sure you have green lights on the interface during the entire update process. If it asks to keep existing patches, click on "No". The last thing you want to do at this point is to save anything from a failed update. Follow the prompts.

Whichever you feel more comfortable doing.

Could be the jack itself, a solder point, or something upstream in the circuit.

Pull the knobs off, make sure the nuts holding the controls in are snug (not overly tight). This maintains the integrity of the chassis ground, and keeps intermittent contacts from occurring. Since it cuts off the speakers, then that part of the circuit works. And the plug is a TRS, so now that points to an issue with the jack on the amp. Intermittent connection inside the jack itself. It will need to serviced by an authorized technician in your area, or returned to the place of purchase for other options.