psarkissian

Don't do that,... It's a keyed connector, you'll break it. If you pull the pins out of the connector and and a pin breaks you'll have problems maintaining a connection.

No "innovine", got it wrong. Not trying to drum up business, trying to keep your gear from ending up on my bench. Sorry if you think otherwise.

That and other things. As for what's on the board,... can't get into that. Klystron is a special kind of tube used for power amp outputs at hi wattage commercial radio stations. Also used in microwave communications. Oh, and,... in certain situations the oil can are used as coolant for the tube.

Just don't stand in front of the waveguide when it's powered up. Hope the tube you're using is a klyston.

For guitar amps, Bogner knows how to deal with it, he's good at it. Audiophile tube amps are another beast and specially all their own. And there are techs like me who deal with both,... and radio station transmitters as well.

If you were to take transparencies of the characteristic curves of the the different brands of EL34's and EL84's, and overlay them, the linear regions of the transfer may line up, but it's the where and how non-linear regions of the curves differ that will create the problems. I've built my share of tube amps, I've been servicing tube amps for decades. No voodoo, no lollipop,... it's just plain physics of electronics.

innonovine: "JJ's have a tendency to damage certain parts of the processor board--- Which parts, exactly, and why? Citations needed"--- Unless you're an authorized service tech and signed an NDA (non-disclosure form),... I can't get into that any deeper than I already have. Sorry. Don't use JJ's, use the specified EH's,... the JJ's will go outside the linear region of the characteristic curve too easily, and that will create problems further downstream, and stress the circuits. And I would have to have give an online course on tube amps for the uninitiated. Right, there is no voodoo,... just knowing what the technology is and where the limits are. Don't go beyond the limits,... physics is unforgiving in that way.

1. Good. 2. Low risk. 3. Volume cut-outs, crackling noises,.. stuff like that. Just play the amp, don't mod it or do anything strange to hot rod the hot rod.

"I smell a BOM (Bill of Material) component value stuffing error during PCB assembly"--- Doubt it,... more like diffuse light wave, wave guide, or debris in the way.

Charlie on the spot. Correct. ColonelForbin,.. the Shuriken guitars would have to do it the way Charlie says it. I know, I've done it. As for 59 vs 69, the board is the same, It's the program that's different. No "Zap",... the controls stay the same.

radatats is right,... "... while they MAY be compatible, they may also be different. apparently original 6CA7's were identical to EL-3s but today's 6CA7 version is a beam tetrode whereas the EL-34 is a pentode"---- The power tubes that come stock with these are "pentodes", that's how the circuitry is designed. Don't mod these amps, use the specified tubes, you will have less problems.

Melted glass is usually a result of 'red plating'. It can get so hot, that the glass will melt and pucker until it cracks and loses vacuum. Seen that more times than I would like to. Depending on how much gigging you do, tubes ought to be changed out every 12-18 months. If you're a recreational player and don't gig or record much, you can get away with 2 to 2-1/2 years. But, yes,... I've seen tubes in amps in general (at other places I've worked) last two weeks in one amp and 5-years in another. Partly the amp, partly the tube. "What precautions can we take to ensure that our amps don't wind up on your bench?"--- Don't try to modify it, use specified tubes, change out tubes on a regular basis. It's your friend, your tools, take care of your tools. And used Line 6 authorized service centers, as they will have access to proper service info,... at least while your warranty is good. And by all means,.... please DON"T go inside these amps yourself, the shock hazard is too great. Don't want read about how someone got zapped messing with a tube amp. This is dangerous,... I'm a tube geek, I was trained to do this, been dealing with tube amps and solid state amps since the 1970's. And been zapped enough to know better.

Yes. Red plating isn't the only way to damage the unit. To explain that further gets into aspects of the circuit that I can't get into. It all goes to the characteristic curves of the tubes. JJ's have a tendency to damage certain parts of the processor board, Mesa's tend to "red plate", and Groove tubes tend to do a host of other things. Part of it is that it's a Bogner hot rod, part of it is that there are multiple gain topologies that are on this amp that can be engaged, and so messing with it is not a good thing to do.

There's a bias voltage specified by Bogner and our engineering dept. Can't get into Plate voltage on a DT-50,... sorry. It's a lot, so don't mess with it. It hurts when you get zapped.

-Red Plating, for one. Too much current going through the plate element. -Biasing other brand tubes to the same spec as the EH's would not be a good idea. -Circuit is designed to operate in the linear region of the "characteristic curves" of the tube. Other brand's linear regions don't always match curve-to-curve. If you go non-linear too soon, distortions and other related problems occur,... stuff starts to get damaged or blown. Bias and gain stages play into this. -And with a hybrid amp like this, one of the things that typically goes, are a couple components on the processor board. -There are multiple gain structures on the amp board, using tubes with afore mentioned aspects also play a part in what can get damaged. Other aspects I won't go into because it's a tube engineering thing that most people won't get (except tube geeks like me),... and because there are also aspects I can't get into because it's proprietary. Pushing a hot rod to the edge is not a good idea here. It's already a hot rod, and a hybrid one at that.

"It was like a crackle pop sound"--- electronic,... a few different possibilities. An authorized service center could narrow it down, nip it in the bud, and check the set-up,... all at once. JTV's are all set-up and checked out before they leave the distribution center. Cross country travel, climate change from region-to-region can have an affect on the set-up. The set-up may need to be dialed-in a smidgeon.

Sounds like a set-up issue, maybe a result of fret buzz getting processed with the rest of the audio. High-E slip on a 69 was with an earlier run, the fret dress specs were adjusted and no problem since. That newer fret dress spec was applied to the 69S later on, so High-E slip hasn't been an issue on the 69S. Set-up may be an issue here as well, may need to be dialed-in a smidgeon.

clay-man, What's the serial number of the JTV-69? Or is it a 69S?

Don't mess with it yourself, have an authorized Line 6 service center do it. They will have access to service info and the know-how to use it. This is not our grandfather's Marshal stack, it's a hybrid. If you don't know where the trim pots go, then don't go there. Leave to the experienced tech who's worked on these. I see too many failed attempts come across my bench. And using info from a Spider Valve link won't apply to the DT series. Different beast, different gain structure,... not to be taken lightly. Nor is its supply voltage. There are high voltage supply lines that should not be tampered with. Leave it to the service center with the knowledge and the service info access. Besides, if you get zapped, it hurts.

"jandrio" is right,... "restringing from the stock d'addario 10s requires setup". Because, changing string gauges changes the tension on the neck, and when you change the tension on the neck, the whole set-up changes (action, pick-up height and intonation). Whenever you change gauge, get a new set-up done on it. Factory strings are D'Addario XL-110's.

"You almost make it sound as though the EH EL34 pair I ordered from MF would not meet the same requirements that the OEM tubes meet"--- I guess the operative word is "almost". EH matched pairs should have a spec marked on it (Plate Current and Transconductance). If it's EH and they're matched they would fine. From MF or whoever has them is fine.

DT series likes EH's, never seen any China tubes in them from the factory. Spider Valve uses 12AX7B (China) for preamps and Sovtek 5881WXT,... should use the WXT versions especially a must if the tube retainers are the "bear trap" type. Alchemist amps are another story altogether and specified tubes are even more crucial and specific. These are hybrid amps with some complex gain loops, so using specified tubes is a must.

Flavors never mattered to me. some people are into that. What we get from EH (matched pairs) has been extra tested saying that they passed our requirements. They also have the crucial Plate Current and Transconductance marked on them. What flavor they are, I don't recall, they are what they are, fitted spec'ed for this group of amps. They all meet the spec. Mike Matthews of EH is an old school circuit geek (like me), so we always have much to talk about when I see him at trade shows. As well as my trade show chats with Aspen Pittman of Groove Tubes. Tony, boo boo? Not really. Sovtek, EH,... same factory, and the factory is owned by EH. EH marked tubes go through extra scrutiny.

BTW,... EH owns the factory in Russia.

Because of the way Bogner designs the tube portions of these amps, and that this is a hybrid and not the usual bill-of-fare tube amp, you should re-tube using the specified EH from Electro-Harmonix tubes. You can't use the EH bias spec on other tubes. The spec is dialed in for the EH's. All too often these come across our bench for no other reason than having non-specified tube inside (JJ's, Mesa, Groove Tube), using the DT amp specified bias. That does not work. They (JJ's, Mesa, Groove Tube) would have to be bias slightly different, because the characteristic curves from one to the other are not exact. That little of difference, makes all the difference. I've seen too many blown amps come across my bench just because of that. It's a hybrid and a hot rod,... best don't mess with it. Stick with the specified EH's.