psarkissian

"But the neck, if it were not for the hole spacing, would be a drop-in replacement. Any half-way sentient luthier...if they succeed in making a living wrenching on guitars, should be able to handle it without too much drama"--- Most definitely. :)

"Unless of course you meant slapping a wider nut on the stock JTV neck... but who in their right mind would do that?"--- Precisely, you hit the nail on the head. :) But then, I've come to expect that from you. Unfortunately, there are modified JTV's that come across my bench all too often with mods that should have never been done, including mod' or 3rd party nuts, or backwards nuts. As a result, there are maybe four people besides myself (and Tyler's people), in all of North America, that I trust, to do mods on a JTV,.... and not mess it up. And the user names here I recognize as a savvy bunch. :)

Sounds like Charlie got one with the later fret edge spec. Oddly enough, a wider nut would bring the strings out closer to the edge and make the problem worse. cruisinon2 have ties to Warmoth? ;)

Single row of contacts, so don't go trying to replace it with a CRL from Stew-Mac, that one won't work as a replacement (I get asked that one all the time). And yes, the Model circuit routine also goes through there to give you your five versions of Model. Sounds like time to take it to the local Line 6 authorized tech in your area.

There is a +/- tolerance, of which, if my calculations are correct (some metric to linear converting),... the 0.01 inch is well within the tolerance range by almost a whole decimal place. Comparing a Variax 600 to a JTV is an apple to orange comparison, and so isn't really all that valid beyond general comparisons between old vs new product. Apples vs oranges,... The problem with the high-E slip had to do with the fret edge dressing, which was addressed wit a newer fret edge spec. All of which was covered in forum postings two years ago, when the current fret spec was rolled in. The 69 in that photo looks like the old fret spec,... from 2011?

In this case with the early 69's, it was a fret edge bevel thing. The 69S models came in after the revised fret spec was implemented, so the 69S has the newer and current fret dress specs. I have no problems with the old spec neck that I have on mine. I do strings pulls and the "chicken scratch blues" thing every now and then. It's been okay, string slip is rare with me.

Ditto, davidb7170,... just don't tap on the magnet too hard. Being the JTV tech here at Line 6, I see this sort of thing every now and then, fortunately not too often. Just needs a going through by a tech, to check the circuits and contacts, and make sure it's all good in the end.

The maple-on-maple necks are a smidgeon different contour than rosewood-on-maple,... or at least it feels that way. Some prefer the maple-on-maple, Some prefer the rosewood-on-maple. They each feel a bit different. All the 69S guitars should have the current fret edge spec, so high-e slip should be kept to a minimum. It's odd that there would be high-e slip on a 69S with that fret edge spec that it has. Unless there's something else going on there. I own a JTV-69 with the old fret spec, the only time I get high-e slip off is when my technique is sloppy at that moment, otherwise it's no problem for me.

This pattern suggests a short of some sort. Take it to your local authorized Line 6 service center. 2 should be mid+bridge, 4 should be mid+neck, somehow there is a short that's not allowing that to occur.

spmartin, Any affect on changing the neck and scale would be in the area of tuning and intonation. If distance from nut to bridge changes, there could be problems in that aspect of it. I don't know what the affect on warranty support that would have. Depends on how much affect it has on interfering with the normal function of the guitar. Check with Line 6 support on that.

Hi Stevekc, Sort of correct, it wasn't CNC with the neck width. It was the fret edge spec in earlier 69's. Was never a problem with the "S" versions. What was the serial number of the guitar in question? If it's an "S",.... maple-on-maple, or rosewood-on-maple? BTW, enjoyed servicing that 59 with the Bigsby bridge.

rkhiii, Positions 3,4,5 work fine? But, 1 and 2 don't?

Also call the Line 6 support line they can walk you through the process, and if there's still a problem they will go through some options.

-- Have you tried with a different computer? -- What kind of computer? What is the OS on it? -- Does the USB connector on the 500X look alright?

There is a general string-to-edge clearance spec that I set to, and I have the tools. We don't usually bring them back for a set-up issue (check with the support line on those options). But if there is something off about the neck, I'll be able to check it out. I make a point of playing a variety of styles so that I cover most of the bases. From what I recall, your 89 played nice when it was in last. Also, it is standard with me to do set-up for the climate of the end destination (ie- your locations). If it's a smidgen off after four days of acclimatisation, take it to a local guitar tech to get that final dialing-in.

I hear about this off and on from those who do string pulls or Gulf Coast Chicken Scratch Blues. The only time it happens to me on my 69, is when my playing technique isn't up to par at that moment.

Version 2.04 is the current one.

FrozenOzone, For an 89/89F, have a tech check and re-align the neck. Nut position can also be a factor. That's part of my standard check list when I do a set-up. Yours might need a slight dial-in since I worked on it last. The reason for the Hi-E slip thing on the 69 is usually for a different reason.

jackoloki, If there is Hi-E slipping, that can be fixed. Call the Line 6 Support Line so they can give you options on how to proceed.

What Charlie said,... most definitely. And the same for non-trem as well, but to a lesser extent. Changing gauges will always need some set-up, some more than others. Take it to a Line 6 authorized service tech who will have access to service info, including set-up specs.

Did you change the gauge of the set? If so, a set-up has to be done to the guitar. Changing gauges change the tension and so changes the set-up (relief, action and such). Change strings one at a time or pull the whole set off at once? Changing all at once leaves the guitar without string tension for a time, and can also have an ever so slight affect on the set-up until the strings tension settles in (which can be up to a couple of days). Have you checked for burrs in the nut slots of the string nut? Burr can give distortions that can get processed along with the rest of the audio. Make sure the retainer nuts for the tuning machines are snug (not too tight, that would create a host of other problems). If it's still under warranty, have an authorized Line 6 service center that knows JTV's, have them give it a good going over. They will have what's needed for servicing these guitars.

http://line6.com/support/ ... has Knowledge Base, Videos and Forums.

Sounds like harmonic distortions. Overdrive setting, maybe a smidgeon of EQ. Upper string with too much ring going thru fuzz processing? Do another vid, one string and let it ring. Hard to isolate when doing chords of eighth note rhythm. Something in the harmonic content of the sound.

The normal pick-up height specs are useful with our factory pick-ups,... don't know what it would be with other brands. Craig Anderton recommends 4mm from string to pole piece, typically,... measured with the highest fret stopped. The guitar brand, string gauge and pick-up brand will determine how far up or down you will have to dial-it in to fine adjust it beyond that 4mm spec. Warbling distortions occur when the string and pick-up are close enough that the magnet starts to pull on the string, damping and distorting the way the string vibrates. You can even see the level of pull on the string when it's out of adjustment. Electro-Harmonix,... they own the Sovtech tube factory in Russia. The EH branded ones we use are their premium Sovtechs, scrutinized beyond the usual Sovtechs,... especially the ones we get. I've had chats with Mike Matthews, the owner of EH, about this tube stuff,... in case you wondered how I knew that. *** And the power tubes have to be matched pairs. Not using matched pairs creates a whole host of problems that can damage circuitry in a big way. There is a point in the characteristic curve trace of the tube specs, that once the "load line" gets you to start operating outside the linear region of the curve, stuff happens. The limits of that linear region can vary slightly from brand to brand. Operate outside of that and problems occur. Mesa's are good tubes, and I'm acquainted with a couple of people at JJ, Ruby Tubes, well acquainted with Aspen Pittman of Groove Tubes (know him from my days at Alesis). They're all good tubes, I like them, just don't use them as power tubes in Line 6 amps. Reinhold Bogner designed the tube portions of our amps to operate with what he specifies, and he leaves little or no wiggle room for modifications. So his bias voltage specs for the power tubes are tight (had chats and emails with him about it). He knows amp tubes. So use the Line 6 specified tubes in your amps.

Ice9Mike--- -- When playing through an HD500, be sure you keep track of the gains at each effects module stage. It's easy for it to get away from you. That happens all the time, even to me. -- Put the neck pick-up back in phase with the bridge pick-up. Don't alter the pick-up height in relation to the strings, too close and it will start to warble and distort, and add to your problem. -- The pick-ups you use are hotter than the stock ones, the frequency emphasis and amplitudes are in a range where it will bring out more of those things you don't want. -- Some EQ is useful too. It's all a palette with colors,... it's all about mixing the colors (guitar, effects, amplification) to create "your" sound. They're there, make use of them. -- If using a tube amp, have the tubes changed once every 18 to 24 months, depending on how much playing you do and depending on how hard you go at it. Old tubes can go micro-phonic and make it sound distorted, whiny or ringy. -- Use specified tubes in Line 6 gear, don't try to hot rod it, it's already a hot rod. That's the way Bogner designed it, he didn't leave room for mods. I see too many come back because someone didn't heed my warnings about that and used JJ's, Groove Tubes or Mesa tubes,... don't do that, use specified EH's. -- When I do a guitar set-up (relief, action, intonation and all), I do the set-up for the end destination, not my location. When I service and test JTV's, I service and test,... the JTV. I don't always have the option of re-creating the customer situation down to the last setting, that would require having the customer's entire set-up (cables and all) to go through and diagnose the problem. I have done that on rare occasions when there was a need to. I can emulate playing techniques such as flat-pick vs finger-pick, boogie blues vs chicken scratch vs east Texas, classical guitar vs rock guitar. Each guitar is different, I learn to play the guitar that's in my hands at that moment, in the end, that's what it's about. And I own three JTV's myself. Those would be my suggestions and recommendations. I've been doing this four decades, I started young, so I've seen and done a hell of a lot. Rock-n-roll!