psarkissian

Between 7 to 8 Volts. They top out at +8.35 Vdc.

Yeah, constructive. Interesting idea. Problem ones that come back for this were typically by someone who didn't read the manual or had no history with using a Variax (old or new). Yeah clay,... better safe than sorry. I have had a few (fortunately only a few) that came back because someone tried to take this JTV to somewhere it was never meant to go (including this subject). This group here though seems to be more on the ball than that. As always, I'm trying to keep all of your gears from ending up on my bench, if it doesn't have to. Idea Scale is where people go to submit ideas that get looked at by staff here. The new Helix product we have is a result of Idea Scale.

Idea Scale that one. I think we use to with the early Variax (before my time here). I think my 300 Electric had one in the bag pouch when I got it (circa 2008).

"6. Analog Output - Plug in a standard 1/4 inch guitar cable here?"--- That just shows where the 1/4" is. Don't forget the note after #8. Make it easier on yourselves, play it safe, treat it like an XPS, when using the battery, use a TRS.

Nice.

To clay,... termination at the other end matters too. It's a fine design if used as intended. It's been like that since the beginning of Variax. the TRS configuration adheres to AES standards for signals with a DC voltage on a 1/4" plug/jack configuration (including those used in active guitar circuitry). Don't try over-think it, make it simple for yourselves, just use a TRS cable.

Not quite.

Thanks cruison2,.... that made my day. :lol:

There is a reason,... T= signal R=+Vdc S= ground return You don't want any two of those to be shorted to one another. Poor design? Not really,... it's poor if you want to do something with it that it wasn't designed to do in the first place. For what it was designed to do, it works pretty good, or I wouldn't own four of them myself. For going beyond and outside the parameters it was designed for,... well that's something else to consider. It's designed to do what it does, goes outside of that and you'll problem find a glitch. You wouldn't drive a Mini Cooper out into an area that requires a four wheel drive vehicle. Man goes to a doctor, puts his arm into a yoga position and says it hurts when I do that. Doctor says, "well then don't do that". So, don't go outside of the design parameters.

When playing using the VDI, use the VDI, VDI cable with XLR casings on both ends. When playing using the 1/4" jack and battery, then use a Tip/Ring/Sleeve (TRS) cable. Using both together to play thru, will stress and heat the amp chips, due to the extra current draw pull-down. You can get away with doing this with the USB Interface for Updates with Monkey, or doing stuff with Workbench HD,... because the audio circuit is turned-off.

Mark Wright Music, http://www.markwrightmusic.com/ Since he's not on the official list in the "Find a Service Center" part of the support site, you may want to consider him a second choice,... unless your amp is out of warranty, then it's dealer's choice. Mark was my opposite number for the guitar products when we had a UK location.

I work at Line 6 in California. E & M is an authorized service center. I sort of know the geography, 'cause the UK is a place I like to hang about. We used to have a Line 6 location in Daventry, and then in Rugby. Been there once or twice, nice area. Usually hang about in London when I'm over there. One of our former techs, Mark Wright, has hung out his own shingle in the midlands there, in Northamptonshire, and still does Line 6 products. I stay in contact with him. Really good at the Line 6 guitar products. We have set-up for other authorized techs to contact and consult us when needed.

He would need to use the support resources used by Line 6 authorized techs to contact me to pick my brain. E&M Electronics near Bletchley is pretty good, centrally located between London and the midlands. Nice area.

There are four things that can cause that.

Trying to re-boot on its own? If the tech has a problem finding the fault, have him get in touch with me through the service tech support channels.

Correct. You might get away with it for a while, but eventually, the circuit devil gets its due.

Using both connectors at the same time for audio output usage can stress or over-heat over time, the switches that switch between 1/4" and VDI as well as the amp chips that would be trying to put out to two outputs simultaneously, rather than one at a time. These are smaller circuits that can handle only so much current draw. So be aware and be careful. Thank you.

TRS is typically used for guitars with active electronics in it. Tip = signal, Ring = DC Volt supply, Sleeve = return or ground. There should be something about that in Knowledge Base as well.

For the purposes of using Workbench/Workbench HD and Monkey (for Flash updates), using VDI and 1/4" with battery to keep the USB power from sagging, is okay. Check the Knowledge Base for more on this, there should be a document spelling out how to do this safely. It's how I connect to Monkey and Workbench. Doing this with audio engaged is not a good idea. This should be used for Monkey and Workbench connecting through the USB interface device. And a reminder,... don't use USB Hubs, passive or powered. Strictly the USB interface that comes with the JTV's. Thank you.

jesuscares,... "Is it true that the tubes work well only when the volume is high?"---- No. There is a threshold point where the volume comes in, its lower point. Depending on the size and output power specs, that will determine whether that threshold points is perceive as loud or not. For example,... the threshold point of a 30-Watt Orange tube amp will be lower than say, a 100-Watt Marshal or a 100-Watt Line 6 HD100. This threshold also applies to transistors. In transistors, it's the "depletion zone", usually at the base/emitter junction, and is VBE = 0.3-0.7 Volts (typically). There is a similar threshold for tubes with the gas between the cathode and plate. The screens/grids are used to mediate this. **That's why tubes and transistors require biasing. So the volume jump will seem greater on a 100-Watt tube amp than say a 30-Watt tube amp. If you have a volume set, and it's jumping back and forth on its own,.... take the amp in for servicing. **Especially if the tubes haven't been changed out in more than 18 months.

Need a capacitor as well, the one on there is gone. And it's not the same as the other diode there (D5). That burn spot looks like it may have damaged a trace underneath. As for the diode,... the guitar will need to be taken into an authorized service center. Maybe the board can be repaired there. There is some specialty things to do to it that an authorize tech will have to deal with (or at Line 6). Maybe it's fixable, it's an older product, discontinued several years ago.

Uh,... lucky Charlie. Usually blows when you try to get current to go both ways thru the sane diode.

That too, what Charlie said,.... though I've never done that myself, I've heard of it happening.

"I've used the digital cable several times times with the batteries installed and never had a problem"--- It was something we always warned people not to do, back in the day when we made these (before I got here). May be something in the Knowledge Base or some other corner of the Forum. Been a while since I saw it. I've posted here on the Forum about this a few times in the past. Power coming in thru one side of the circuit from the power wedge or floor effects, and power trying to come into the circuit from the other way, can and does put stress on that very spot of the circuit in the photo. It's an over-voltage build-up that stresses that corner of the circuit. Either battery, or XPS power wedge, or VDI,.... but never a combination of them together. I've posted on this a few times in the past. You might get away with leaving batteries in while connected to VDI, with a JTV or the new Variax Standard, but I even do the 'one or the other' with JTV's and Standard's simply out of habit now. Just got into the habit of doing it that way,... one or the other, not both.

Were the batteries in the 700 when you plugged with the VDI? It was a VDI and not a generic CAT5 was it?