codamedia

A new model with more DSP & Memory is inevitable.... when, we don't know. Here is what I know TODAY! My Helix sounds great, and I don't face any bottlenecks in horsepower or memory even though I am aware some do. When a new Helix is introduced my Helix will still sound great! As a gigging musician.... my Helix makes my life easy and also makes me a good chunk of change. Why would I put all of that on hold waiting for something I "expect" to be coming at "some point". Maybe EVH should have waited 2 more years for the JCM 800 instead of using that 10 year old Super Lead :)

On a synth you are tuning the instrument... you don't tune the Helix, it just includes a tuner. RE: The Offsets... that's a great feature. The ability to store more than one would be even better :) In fairness, the original Helix had very slow graphics. The tuner was fine, but the graphics were jumpy and/or slow to respond making it difficult to tune. Somewhere around the 2.6 update the graphics (response) got a major overhaul which improved the tuner substantially. In "Strobe Mode", I find the Helix equal to my Peterson(s).

No problem here after the update. Have you opened the tuner settings to see what the INPUT is set to? Maybe it was inadvertently set to one of the returns instead of the guitar input? When you updated did you follow all procedures, including the process of "backup > factory reset > restore". Global settings are often changed during an update... it is imperative (at minimum) to restore the global settings which includes the tuner settings.

Possibly, but people often buy something, use it a week and return it. I wouldn't call it B Stock or Refurbished.... at most it's "open box".

There is no touch menu on the Helix, just "touch capacitive" footswitches. Global Settings > Footswitches > Stomp Select Set that to "Touch" or "Touch & Press"... Touch the button with your finger, not a foot in shoes. It will react to bare feet, and sometimes feet in socks.

The frequency response is only part of the story. Do you see that (+/-3dB) after the Red Sound specs, where is that spec for the J8A? Actually, even +/-3dB is not very good, but fairly common. That means any frequency within the band can be plus or minus 3 db, that's a potential 6dB swing from frequency to frequency... not even in the discussion of "flat". Those specs also don't tell you how the curve has been shaped. Just because a speaker can reproduce a frequency, that doesn't tell you how the speaker sounds. If the speaker cannot "accurately reproduce" what the helix is doing, the Helix cannot fix it. If they've scooped or even dipped the mids in any way (eg: hyped/contoured), you don't stand a chance. Are you saying those speakers are used a lot in local squares? That's not a good endorsement :) As I've said, I have zero experience with those speakers but lower priced speakers are notorious for "hyping" the sound. I have a strong hunch that is what you are experiencing. IMO, I'd suggest you take your Helix into a music store and plug it into a higher quality speaker... a QSC or Yamaha. I think you will instantly hear a difference.

How do the FBT J8A speakers sound with everything else? If you pump some well recorded music through them, does they sound crisp and clear? Or boomy bottom? Shrill top? You're not looking for a dance mix, you want as "flat as possible" with rich mid range. I have no experience with those speakers, but I see they have an HPF filter.... try engaging those if it's boomy/muddy. If the speaker is on the floor, lift it. If it's in a corner, move it. How about the mackie mixer... is the strip you plug the Helix into FLAT, or are you attempting to EQ it prematurely? Long story short... when using full range speakers, start with the "flattest palette" you can create, then shape your tones on the Helix. I'm pretty sure the "FBT J8A speakers" are active. I have no idea of the quality though.

In this world of instant gratification players often forget that yes... it did/does take countless hours of learning in order to create great tones. We do it differently these days, but putting in time is still not an option. IMO the learning never ends, you just get better/quicker at it over the years. Could Line 6 provide some better guidance/presets? Maybe. There is no shortage of discussions and video's on these subjects already and personally I would rather Line 6 work on the product(s), not enhanced training. For that we have Jason Sadites, Craig Anderton, and many others already.

Save your Helix preset with the AMP model highlighted. The small encoders become your amp controls.... gain, bass, middle, treble, etc.... everything you need for quick adjustments. Your volume will be the big volume control on the Helix. If you need to save any tonal changes you made, just double tap the save button. (volume changes are global) IME... using the Helix like this has always been easier and more convenient than attempting to adjust an amp 5 - 10 feet behind me on a stage.

I use the simple/basic little GAIN block at the front of every preset to manage input differences. It's very light on resources and adds no color to your tone. Unlike boost pedals, the gain block can also cut signals which is handy for those really loud instruments. No tone change, just volume.

Happy Studio One 6 user here. To be honest.... I always use a dedicated audio interface and never have an issue. Your Scarlett works fine... I'd just stick to that. I know that's not much help.... I just find the efforts are not worth the trouble when there is a solution already at your fingertips. The wait for a fix could take a long time. There have been a few threads of users having issues with the current audio drivers. Ironically, those were Cakewalk users which you say works fine... go figure. Their fix was to "downgrade" the Helix audio driver, not the firmware. Perhaps that will also work in your case with Studio One?

Nah.... we just don't look for answers to problems we don't have. If you've never had the need to separate them, why would you!

Gain blocks are easy on resources and are transparent. I keep one near the front of my chain to match input levels, and one after the amp block to fine tune output levels. If I need a cut or boost in a snapshot, I'll apply it on one of those depending on the need. That type of option isn't practical on a Stomp or HX effects with limited blocks... but there is no shortage of blocks on the big units to squeeze them in. Works for me, might not be the solution for others :)

Actually, they can be either/or :) From page 63 (Global EQ section) of the manual.... "Global EQ is applied to all setlists and presets and can be heard from the 1/4" outputs, XLR outputs, or both." I keep mine set to XLR outs which is my FRFR. The 1/4" outs go to a DI prior to heading to the FOH/Monitors. That's the answer!

I just run a PC... and let Windows Defender do it's thing. I also keep the free version of MalwareBytes on my system that I can run on demand... it doesn't load/run in the background. I hate those AV suites with a passion.... Norton, McAfee, Kaspersky, etc... etc....To say they are resource hogs is an understatement. I'd rather use the processing power for something else. I just keep it simple, and use common sense with accessing the web! I also keep multiple redundant backups.

It shouldn't bother me when this stuff happens.... I know that.... but it does! The recording sounds great...

Of all the things on the internet to debunk... a guitar player testing stuff and giving his opinion. He doesn't claim to know the answers, he's searching for them.

My preferred setting is "Bright/Off".... That could change next week, but for the last 4 years that's been my favorite way to operate it - LOL!

A traditional pedal board plugged into an amp does the exact same thing. Eg: Take a boost at the start of your pedal board and turn it up a notch or two... everything down chain will be affected by that. On a traditional pedal board players intuitively bend over and make the change, yet surprisingly on a modeler they don't think about doing that. You're on the right track... give yourself some time to sort it all out, you don't learn gain staging over night. Actually - I'd suggest you never stop learning about gain staging and all the tricks (and gotcha's) that come with it.

No, you cannot separate the "performance view" screen from the "footswitch" rings. Bright/Dim will be that way on both or Bright/Off will be that way on both

Check the settings for the Loop in the global settings. If they are set to LINE, change it to INSTRUMENT.

My Helix is silent... or at least as silent as anything else I've owned over the years. Share a preset.... and/or provide an audio sample of your hiss.

You - are - in - the - helix - forum! Just saying :) You bought into a 2.4G network. I hate to be the spoiler here, but they all suffer from that same problem. With the G10 it will scan and give you the cleanest channel... but it can't stop others from jumping on that channel later. When you buy other models YOU get to choose the channel... it makes it quicker to navigate when things go south. You also bought a consumer grade device and seem to want pro level. Spend money and buy pro - if that's what you expect! You won't get it for $200. All that said... the G10 sounds great and many people use it with success. Sadly, you are in a market where that traffic is saturated. FWIW... I use a G50 and on occasion have issues, but not often. When I play an exhibition/large fair, FORGET IT! Every ride is controlled by an MC that owns a Line 6 handheld sharing the same channels. C'est La Vie.... I bought into the 2.4 network and I know it!

When a loop is set to 50%, that IS creating a parallel path. Set it to 100%, then solve the tonal difference that you are mentioning. @CraigGT provides great advice above. Make sure the LEVEL of the Loop in UNIT A is set the same as the I/O of UNIT B. Both need to be instrument, or both need to be line. IMO... I wouldn't bother with the loop at all. Why not just run one unit into the other? That would eliminate one unnecessary AD/DA conversation.

^^^ this ^^^ is my solution. It is easy, it is cheap, & it works! Simply add a 10K resistor across the open or closed output of a switch... it then mimics a Line 6 EXP in "Heel down/Toe down".