codamedia

The firmware can only be updated via Monkey through a VDI box, not the Helix. If the JTV is still 1.x it won't even be HD yet, do I don't think WorkBench HD will even recognize it. In reading the OP several times, I am pretty sure that guitar needs to be brought up to date. Beg, borrow, buy an older Windows laptop and install L6 Monkey. As long as you have the VDI box and a battery with 15 -30 minutes of power you can get this thing updated. From that point forward, connect to the Helix with a VDI cable and you will have power and full functionality.

Yes the amp is coloring your tone, yes the studio monitors will be much more accurate/faithful to the tone you are creating on the Helix. Will you like it? That's up to you! I love it, but that's me! You will find some 5" monitors in that price range and others may vouch for them, but I would always recommend stretching the budget to go a touch bigger. For $100 more the KALI 6's (6.5") are really good... and there are often great deals on used 6.5" monitors as users upgrade to 8's.

@mtumi... many great reasons, those are already listed above. In case you didn't know this, Line 6 gave us options that you can use to your advantage in this case. User defaults to the rescue, roughly page 19 of the manual. If this is something that really bothers you... simply go through each amp model and adjust the "channel volume" of each amp model so they match - and save them as a user default. The next time you are auditioning amp models, they'll be leveled the way "you" wanted them leveled.

^^^ This ^^^

Yes.... There are some experiences users here that have already said your preset is fine... so I'd love to hear what the problem really is.

Firmware 3.5 is a giant leap forward compared to the earlier versions. I don't know when you sold... but aside from the additional "amps/effects/& now cabs", they have added dozens of features under the hood that thoroughly improve functionality. I bought my Helix in late 2018 when the current version was V2.6... and 3.5 is a MASSIVE leap forward from that.

@craiganderton.. I love the concept/approach, thanks for sharing that with us. I notice a huge different on my studio speakers.

The Albert Lee approach to tuning a mandolin works well for me on the Variax... just the top 4 strings of a guitar - D,G,B,E. It sounds good, but won't get the familiar voicings of a traditional mandolin. This is my approach with the Variax to fake a mandolin sound. Use one of the 12 string acoustic models Set the D & G as unison, not octaves (the B & E should already be unison) Optionally... turn down the volume on the low E & A... Now, put a capo on the 12 fret... or simply stick to playing in that range. IMO - that sounds way more realistic than attempting to alter the tuning that dramatically.

I found the answer to #2... it looks like I need part # 30-51-0381. But #1 is elusive, I can't find them anywhere - which leads me to believe #3 could be my only option.

It's half an LT, with additional limitations. The tones are the same... but you cannot get as much out of a single preset. The split blocks are the same, but you don't have the same number of paths. No. The LT has up to 32 blocks, the Stomp has 8. Nope.... You get one parallel split... ie: 2 lines. For the most part... YES. Off the top of my head I can't think of any exceptions, but there could be.

I just picked up a used 2014 (W1404) JTV 69... excellent condition, everything works great. As with many used guitars, the trem bar is lost in action. I don't use trem, I tighten down the bridge and call it a day on my Strat style guitars - but I wouldn't mind having one to complete the package. Where can I find one? I understand there are 3 generations of bridge on these guitars... I know I have gen 2 or gen 3. Is the bar the same for each generation or do I need to find a specific one for the generation I have? If they are not available... would our resident Variax expert@psarkissian kindly share the thread specs so I can tap my own?

Well... I'm old school. When I need my backup guitar (or to simply switch guitars) I simply unplug one and plug in the next. The EXP on my LT is always a Volume/Wah... so muting is extremely simple when it's time to switch - just heel down the exp pedal. That said - I do use one of my returns as an input for my Pedal Steel which is always connected.

The short answer.... it's TWO HX Effects in one box & more.... From there you can use your imagination. If you can't think of a way to use it then it's not for you. FWIW, I made the switch from an HX Effects to an LT and never questioned my decision once. It was worth every penny! But that's me, you are you! His tone is not a mystery. The Helix has the amps, cabs and effects needed.... the HX Effects has the effects needed.

Yet there is a very good chance your amp fx loop is line level. Or it could be a parallel loop rather than a series loop? Make sure you know the the details of all the gear you own... and how it will all interact with each other. You can't just blame one piece of gear when two pieces are not playing well together. As for getting volumes to match.... aside from Line/Instrument level, there is also a send level and a return level. More than enough tools available to match volumes.

I don't compare anything to anything else. Two amps off the assembly line one serial number apart don't sound the same so what would I truly be comparing anything to? The only thing that matters is that I get great tones and like using the product. My Helix LT and my HX Stomp deliver on both. Admittedly, I was not a fan of the original cabinets so I used IR's but the new cabinets sound really good.

^^^ this ^^^... for me. I also own a Peterson and find the Helix Tuner in strobe mode works equally as well, minus a few features.

Is that all the troubleshooting you've done? Have you tried with different presets? Have you tried with nothing else connected to the HX (eg: Guitar > HX > Headphones) Have you swapped any cables? How's the power that you are plugged into? If you are convinced it started with the 3.5 update... did you follow all of the updates instructions in full? (Backup > update > factory reset > restore) I definitely hear a POP, but at this point it could be anything.

The only place the HX Effects wins is in size/weight. I've owned both and although I can't speak for the later HX Effects builds the LT has much quieter loops than my HX effects did. Actually - the loop noise in the HX effects was the reason I upgraded to an LT. No... it's two HX Effects and even more! The LT has 2 DSP's, an expression pedal, double the snapshots and up to 32 effect blocks. If you ever need "poly-pitch" you won't hit the DSP wall like you may with the HX Effects. A Helix (Rack, floor or LT) makes an incredibly powerful pedal board when you use it with an amp. You are not forced to always use the amp modeling.

I'm sure the serial number they provided you is a PREFIX (based on the product line), followed by your ESN. The ESN is the unique serial number to your unit, the prefix is the same for everyone that owns that product. (Stomp, Effects, LT, etc...)

I'm not allowed to edit my post from this morning so I have to quote it... arghhh! I meant to say "I have no idea how to access the LCD TEST on an HX Effects or a Helix" .... not a stomp.

I recently bought a used Stomp that had Velcro on the bottom... when I remove that the serial number went with it. The method you describe is what Line 6 support suggested to me and it worked 100%. I got my serial number, registered the used unit, and printed a new label for the bottom of the unit. I have no idea how to access the LCD TEST on an HX Stomp or a Helix, but I'm sure it will list the same information when it is found.

Yes.... either use the AMP+CAB block, or separate AMP & CAB blocks. Most players don't scrutinize a real amp the way they do a modeler. Artifacts like you describe exist on real amps as well... it's called crossover distortion. Place a mic on an amp, throw the headphones on and scrutinize the tone. You probably won't like what you hear at first. I recall a discussion about Van Halen not having that in his tones.... someone posted an isolated Van Halen track and SURPRISE, there it was. FWIW... the crossover distortion is part of the "power amp". If you run a pre-amp model into a Cabinet that will often go away, but you also lose a lot of character from the amp... especially on a VOX AC15 or AC30 model where the power amp is a huge part of the character.

@roryburns... I think the OP has a Line 6 Helix LT, not a BOSS GT-1.

Global Settings > Preferences > "EXP2/EXT AMP" (Page 66 in the V3 Manual) Set that option to "EXT AMP" (external amp) That leaves the built in EXP as 1&2 with the toe switch.

I'm late to this thread.... but want to offer what I do. I run three banjo tunings... and have completely ditched the idea of getting that High G from the A string. 6 String Banjo This is just standard guitar tuning, all six string. It work great for modern country.... faux banjo. It's not my favorite style, but it works well, especially for that Keith Urban thing. Banjo D I stay off the low A and E (I guess I could mute them)... and drop tune the high E to a D. This makes the tuning exactly like a standard 5 sting, but without the high G. This works well since the high D often acts like a drone... you get some great rolls, just no high G drone. Banjo G Same as Banjo D but this time I raise the high E to a high G. Instead of having the "D Drone" I have that "High G Drone". Since I actually play 5 string banjo this one takes a little getting used to.... as the rolls will differ from the real instrument. But that expected tone is there, and the high D is rarely missed when the high G is in your face. I do all that with an old 300... those tuning are baked into three of the custom slots. I often load "Banjo D" for vamping then kick in "Banjo G" for a solo. If I had a JTV or Standard I'd get creative. I'd load a preset with the tuning of "Banjo D"... then put the D > G on a momentary footswitch and learn when to engage it on the fly.