codamedia

If you use a DAW, turn off input monitoring... If you don't use a DAW, I suspect there are audio settings in the OS that create the same problem. To test if it's the Helix or the computer... simply unplug the USB cable. If the unwanted reverb goes away the problem is in the computer, look there to solve it not the Helix.

Well... I don't do any shows without a backup, never have, never will. Even a $50 fill in gig. I've always carried two amps, at least two guitars and several cables. I could care less if I lost an effect or two on a gig. These days two modelers instead of amps... Knock on wood, I've never needed the backup. You read about it here because this is where people come when there is a problem. What you don't read here are the thousands of views of users happily chugging along with no reason to lodge a complaint. I have read your posts about the service techs and I feel for you. That's not right, especially handing something back in worse shape than when you took it there (stripped screws and such). I also keep loading your backup whenever I can to see if I can ever duplicate that bizarre "mono/stereo" bug you are encountering. I don't disregard it... I just can't seem to repeat it - probably because I can't let my Helix sit long enough with your settings loaded. I also get your point about buying a "lemon". It's never fun when you end up with one but we have the term "lemon" because it inflicts any product and product line. You have a lemon Helix Floor... I have a lemon of a car, and a lemon of a dishwasher - both makes/models that normally get great ratings. I give the 1 star when everyone else is giving 4's and 5's. Don't get me wrong, I have my own list of dislikes with the Helix... I just don't believe it's any better or any worse than other major products in terms of reliability. The grass is not always greener on the other side.

IMO... I have no problem with the road worthiness of a Helix - and I use the lightweight LT. I'm 4+ years in with my Helix and I use it all the time (100+ shows per year). Yes, I do have a couple footswitches that need attention but after a few years I consider that general maintenance, not a catastrophe. My amps (when I used them) required service far more often than this. You gave BOSS a pass earlier in your post but FWIW, I have never owned a BOSS product that didn't use micro-switches for foot switches. Maybe the GT-1000 is different, but any product prior certainly has. I've got bags of different (Boss/Roland) microswitches in my parts bin... you can't tell me they don't fail. That's OK, I expect to do maintenance on the parts I stomp on thousands of times!

That's what I've been using for the past 4 years. It's been great. I much prefer a unit that uses AA batteries over having them built in, and I also like to be able to choose my frequency, not have a unit attempt to automate it in an ever changing environment.

It's a really easy and elegant solution... I've been doing that for too many years to count. Long before Line 6 existed let alone the Helix. FWIW, On the Helix I run a volume pedal all the time... I just drop it to heel down when I switch guitars. Much faster than waiting for the tuner to engage.

IMO... I would expect that to be intended behavior of the MIDI protocol. If an external midi device is not running (eg: song/part not being played) I'd want full control of the tempo on my Helix - so reverting back to global/snapshot/preset tempo (depending on choice) on song stop makes sense to me. If it didn't work like that, your Helix clock would always be controlled by the external device... which I think you would find very annoying.

I'd say put it on a analyzer to see what's happening... your ears and mind are biased even when you try not to be. Another option is to simply have someone else switch out the power supplies randomly so you don't know what is used... ie: a blind test. I'm not convinced you are hearing what you hear.... digital devices usually crunch numbers or they don't. But my mind is open to the possibility.

Let's keep it in context.... you bought a USED Helix where the seller told you the expression pedal DIDN'T WORK! You got lucky that it worked at all when it arrived. A bug update is not likely to fix your problem... having the expression pedal fixed is more likely to work. Don't get me wrong... I know bugs exist. But think about it.... this is being described as a hardware killing bug yet it only affects a small handful of users? The encoders mentioned here could be explained by the "encoder ballistic" change in 3.5. Not that 3.5 killed the encoders, it is simply exposed the failing ones. Your pedal is not in the same camp.... it was failing before you bought it, and the seller told you that. I'd be looking for a dirty sensor or a faulty ribbon connection. Both are quite common in electronics. The sensor in the LT is particularly exposed compared to the Helix floor... sunlight from the wrong angle will cause headaches and I know that from several shows over the past few years. If the SUN can see the sensor... dirt, dust, grime can see the sensor.

There is nothing like that in the Helix that I am aware of. There are some effects which can be controlled by dynamics, and there is a "split" that can be controlled by dynamics that can get really creative... but not a "modifier" in the manner you are describing.

I have no issues with any gain/overdrive/distortion blocks on my LT. Everything sounds and works exactly like it used to... I just have a few new options to explore when I have the time. Keep in mind that an update often resets global settings. If you don't follow the update recommendations of "backup/global reset/restore" you could be in for some surprises.

I'm surprised it's not mentioned here but the encoder ballistics changed in the 3.5 update . It is quite possible that a faulty/misbehaving encoder is being exposed by the new update. I would expect downgrading to fix that... when you downgraded did you do a factory reset to make sure the Helix was fully initialized? That is an important step whether you are upgrading or downgrading. Of course.. the encoder could have simply failed at an inopportune time. IMO... it's like taking the car to the mechanic and coming home with a new problem. As much as we want to say the mechanic broke it....99% of the time it's nothing more than coincidence.

When snapshots first appeared many users scratched there heads and said "what's wrong with stomps, I'll never use snapshots?". Fast forward just a few years and many (if not most) users will consider it a "must have feature" they "didn't know they needed". IMO, the combination of 8 snapshots and 10 stomps is exponentially more powerful than 24 single stomps. Learning a new trick is often worth the reward. If you really just want more footswitch options.... a MIDI Controller is your best approach at this time.

No, the Helix Controller can't connect to a Helix floor, however - you are on to something. Using MIDI you can enable/disable almost anything on the Helix and much more. A MIDI controller with a lot of footswitches would allow you to do exactly what you want.

IMO... you are approaching he Helix from an old school linear way of working with effects. I'm not dissing it... but that is what you are doing. Approach the Helix from a different mindset... "Presets/Snapshots/Stomps". Between the three of them you can accomplish so much more than 24 individual stomp boxes, with far less tap dancing.... but you need to take the time to figure out how and why. Open a support ticket and ask them. While you are at it... open an ideascale account (line6.ideascale.com).... search for this feature request (I know it's there already)... upvote it.

When using acoustic instruments, I always place the IR at the front of the signal chain. The way I see it... those IR's are more like adding a MIC to the instrument... and I want that tone as early as possible. The same applies to my Banjo, Mandolin, Classical and Acoustic IR's. All of my acoustic instruments are straight up PIEZO with a basic preamp... I really like adding the MIC tone to them.

My LT expression is working fine since the 3.5 update.... no different than ever. If the seller told you it didn't work, and it arrived working - you got lucky for a short time frame. It could be as simple as a bad connection internally or it could be a bigger problem. IMO, it needs service. If you are convinced the update killed it... when you updated the firmware did you do the "backup > factory reset > restore" from the instructions? Updates will adjust the global settings... a factory reset will initialize the entire machine... a restore brings it all back to a familiar operating state.

As you know, you answered your own question... There are numbers on that "cable tone" setting you can use as reference. At the highest setting you were simulating a 100' cable, at 11:00 (where you are now) it's a 20' cable - which makes more sense. FWIW, I keep my cable tone at 15'... I don't like it off because I'm used to 40+ years of using a cable. 15' sounds natural "for my use" As for noticing it most on the AC Sim... that's because the AC Sim relies on top end. If you've taken all the high end away the problem would be very pronounced. On normal guitar parts, it would just sound softer / less bright - but an AC Sim would be completely lifeless.

Two more scenario's, 1: I've known a few players over the years that toss a CAB SIM at the end of their traditional pedal board and go direct. Loading an IR in the HX Effects would do the same thing, with more versatility. 2: IR's are not only for CAB sims. In my Helix I use special IR's with my Dobro, Acoustic, Banjo and Mandolin... I wouldn't think twice of doing the same with an HX Effects.

That's a good resource... IMO... mic choice/placement/combinations is a critical stage in tone development. It doesn't end at the amp alone... traditionally that was just where you handed off the duties to an engineer or tech.

When your tone is in place and you only need to kick on a single effect, often for a quick passage. Sure... you can duplicate the snapshot to include that single effect, but that eats up snapshots pretty quickly. Fine for some, not for everyone. There are several benefits to each option on the Helix. That's why we have presets, snapshots and stomp mode. We can all choose what works best for ourselves.

I just glanced at the "tool" in question.... export preset upload preset to site choose target cab download preset import preset tweak new cab block Existing way.... copy preset to new location change cab tweak new cab block IMO, I can't understand how that tool would simplify anything.

I had to go listen to a few demo's.... it's a great sounding pedal. To be honest, it's sounds like a natural boost/overdrive which is where I lean to the Tee-mah (Timmy) in the Helix. The trick is to keep the gain relatively low and experiment with the clipping modes and tone controls.

Think of the tilt more like a "teeter-totter"... it teeters at the frequency set point.... that point itself will not be cut or boosted like it would in a "v shape". When you move to the dark, it raises everything below the set point while lowing everything above. When moved to the bright it's the opposite.

It's not hard... but the variables make for endless amounts of tonal variations. This is extremely rudimentary, but it may help. too immediate.... pull the mic back too distant... put the mic closer too bright... move the mic toward the edge too dark... move the mic toward the center some mics have proximity effect.... if they are too dark, pulling them back reduces the low end and vice versa Keep in mind... every 1" you move a mic makes a big difference. Sometimes a little movement is all it takes. Studio engineers will spend hours with mic positions before they touch an EQ. Do not go near the high cuts or low cuts until you have done all you can with positioning. Moving the mic toward the speaker edge will remove a lot more fizz than any high cut will. The same applies with pulling the mic away from the speaker.

I just did the update.... it works as outlined, but you do need to pay attention. If you break the sequence, all bets are off! When this appears on the screen... which is at the 50% mark give or take a little.... This also appears on HX EDIT .... You simply have to press REUME to continue.... If you panic and shut down either HX Edit or the Helix at this stage you probably end up on these forums wondering what went wrong!