codamedia

I would say yes! My acoustic has an active pre-amp, but I do run both a mandolin and 5 String banjo with passive transducers.... no issues at all! What I do is put a gain block at the front of the signal path to bring the signal up to a level I am used to working with... then process as required from there.

On your interface I believe he is referring to the "direct monitor" button. Make sure that is NOT engaged or you will hear the sound of your direct guitar along with the processed sound in Helix Native. Some interfaces uses a rotary knob for that control so you can blend the direct sound... your's just happens to have a push button.

FYI... I am quite aware of that - I use Logic often. But what that doesn't do is solve a possible underlying issue that "may be occurring" at the MAC OS level. OP says that when the Helix is not connected via USB to the computer (for HX Edit use only) the glitch goes away! That means when both the Behringer and the helix are connected... there is likely a conflict in the computer that is causing the glitch. Try this test, and report the findings! Start by getting the Helix to "glitch" as you are describing through the interface/computer. Plug a guitar into a different channel on the interface (directly).... and play it. Never mind the terrible dry tone it will have, Does it glitch?

FYI... Telling Logic not to use the Helix as an interface is a high level operation. Do you have any way to tell the MAC not to use the Helix as an interface? If there is a conflict between the Helix and Behringer... it would be at the computer level (MAC) and just manifest itself at the program (Logic) level. Keep in mind the OP is not using USB audio on the Helix. He is plugging a Helix Output into the Behringer interface. Headphone out, 1/4", XLR, doesn't matter. The outputs need to be tested "directly", not through the Behringer/computer. BUT this should be done WHILE the glitching is known to happen through the interface.

One more test please.... Start by getting the Helix to "glitch" as you are describing through the interface/computer. Leave everything hooked up and plug in a set of headphones (to the Helix) Is it glitching through the headphones? If the headphones (Helix) are fine but the sound through the computer still glitches.... the problem is at the computer level. It is NOT the firmware on the Helix. If the headphones are glitching as well, then you may need to re-install the firmware again.

Not without knowing what you like. As I asked earlier, who are your favorite players and what do they use for cabinets/Speakers? Figure that out, then look at ML Labs, Ownhammer, 3Sigma, Celestion, etc... etc... to see if they have that very combination in there offerings!

IMO.... speaker/cab/mic placement is everything when it comes to solving issues like you describe. It's not the amp models themselves! Do you know what you really like for a cabinet/speaker? If not... have you researched what your favorite players use? Figure that out, then buy a SMALL yet QUALITY IR set for that cab/speaker combo! By zeroing in on one cabinet you eliminate the wasted time/rabbit hole of a never ending search! What you will get is a cabinet with dozens of MIC Choice and Mic positions. Since the cabinet is no longer changing, you will actually learn what those mics and positions do to a tone! Any sound tech/engineer will tell you that is one the best lessons you will ever learn! Just my 2 cents....

The easiest/quickest test is to simply plug a set of headphones into the Helix headphone jack. If the sound does not stutter there, it is not the Helix causing the problem. Do you also have the Helix connected to the computer via USB (for HX Edit), even through you are using the Behringer for an interface? If so.... The MAC and Logic will see both devices as audio interfaces and there could be a mismatch in sample rates and/or clock timing. A MAC and Logic both have ways to deal with this, but sometimes it requires human intervention :) (ie: it takes some trial and error to set it up)

IMO, there are two possible problems based on my experience with an older Variax model (300) and a Helix. It's hard to explain.... but for your own mental health I suggest you set snapshots to discard if you are using an old Variax, and always set the Variax model on the Helix itself. Now I will try to explain it a little. There is one big "gotcha" for the Helix with the older Variax guitars. The Helix cannot select a custom model unless it is stored in one of the custom presets. If you re-write your preset on a variax with a variation.... your guitar will select the variation with the 5 way, but the Helix can only select the original model. What happens next is confusing to say the least. If you change the models on your Variax and you either... A: save your preset or B: Don't have snapshots set to discard..... your Helix will get really lost if it tries to remember that location. The other problem could be the guitar itself.... If the model selector or the 5 way is dirty it can interfere with this process. The Helix changes the model but the guitar gets a signal very quickly from it's own controls to change to the model the positions are set for. Try placing those controls into a very different position and see if the Helix can control the models with more consistency. If it works, those controls (or one of them) needs a good cleaning.

I am not much of a high gain player, but last night I would going over those amps in Helix native to see what was there. My immediate preference was the 2204 (JCM800) and the 2204Mod with it's pre-mid controls. I use Celestion IR's these days. Their silver label closed backs sound very natural with these models (that's what JCM 800 cabs usually came with) but I do prefer the greenback IR (warrmer) for a traditional tone, and even more so - the RUBY IR's which have a very rich depth to their tone. As for an overdrive, I would always reach for a Tube Screamer variant for solo's. You don't need to add much distortion to the tone, just boost the front end of the amp a couple notches and let it do it's thing naturally. Just my 2 cents.

IMO... there is no measurement to how a human will perceive these differences. A a generic "loudness" control like home stereos used to have might work but I wouldn't trust that for preparing presets... it just might make an existing stage preset a little more lively at lower volumes. My way of dealing with Fletcher Munson is to take my "stage proven tones" and get used to hearing those tones (without adjustment) at lower levels in my home studio. Once you are aware of the differences you can work with them, but I can't imagine actually attempting to simulate those differences without creating an environment that is even more misleading. It's an interesting concept, I'm just sharing my 2 cents....

Nothing is stopping you from adding the extras for your own pleasure... but everything else you add will be moving further away from what Neil would do. IMO.... Studio Compression is definitely added to Neils guitar on the recordings.... you may want to insert the "LA Studio Comp" after the after for that feel/tone. It will be subtle, but does make a difference. A touch of verb doesn't hurt, but keep it light. Both the verb and compression would be "studio additions", not part of his core tone!

Probably not the problem.... but what firmware version are you running with your Helix? The reverbs on the Helix were quite anemic until the 2.6 (IIRC) update which provided a lot more control over the effect level/blend. Myself... I have no issues with the existing reverbs. I find the Legacy verbs fit what I need more than the Helix models but that's just my preference. A good hall, plate, room or spring keeps me happy.

You are making the assumption that your guitar is putting out the exact amount of volume required to drive precisely 4db at the xlr output when set to line level. As you have learned.... it doesn't. You need to boost it by about 14db, which is actually quite normal! Everything is relative.... if you plug in a louder guitar your reference of unity gain has completely changed! Line 6 leaves a lot of room to adjust the levels here/there/everywhere for you to match up levels. It is done this way so the device works with every guitar you throw at it, not just your guitar.

A 14db difference is not out of line. If you consider -10 to +4 is already the variance between the two Line Level standards... that equals 14db! IMO.... there is nothing out of the ordinary here. If you have ways to balance it out (such as the Global EQ) just do it if you need to. That's looks like the answer right there. Your presets are about 10 - 14db quieter than they have to be. That really doesn't matter though... especially since you can make that gain up with the global eq on the XLR outs "when you need to"! I am pretty sure the Helix is +4 .... If your presets are a few db quiet, that is the difference you are seeing. The numbers you are providing add up as expected :)

I thought you were blaming the Helix.... so this is actually confusing me :) Of course it can! Line Level is much louder than instrument level... plus you have hundreds of ways to increase the gain along the way.

Line Level comes in two variants.... +4db... Often referred to as Pro Level -10db.... Often referred to as Consumer Level Some manufacturers tell you which one they use, others may not. IIRC, the Helix uses +4 (pro level), but it can be controlled by the big volume, and the preset level will also come into play. If you disengage the main volume from the XLR outputs, then that is the same as running the big volume at full! If the Scarlet is +4db line level AND if you have a quiet preset or attenuate the output of the Helix in any way this could occur! This would explain your need (in a later post) to use the global EQ to raise the XLR output by 12db. Those are Mic Pre's and can accept the lowest of mic levels to the loudest of line levels.... that's why there is a pot to control the input. The fact that you are running this around 35% suggests to me that the output form the Helix is actually in tolerance... albeit more aligned to -10 than the +4 it should be.

Isn't there 1024 preset locations on a Helix LT? 8 Set Lists with 128 per list? Or are you just referring to how many are empty when the unit is fresh (reset)? Even if you have used up 1K+ preset locations, export/import is your friend... You never have to lose anything unless you don't back it up. I'm a multi instrumentalist that runs everything through the Helix and also have several projects on the go. This is not meant as an debate, just as a counter point to your requirements... I have no problem working within a single set list. Out of curiosity, are you utilizing Snapshots and Stomp Mode to your benefit or are you just using presets in the old school manner?

By already sold out do you mean it's already full? You don't need all those factory presets, clear a few hundred out to give you some room to work on your own sounds. If you are worried about overwriting a preset you like... always make a copy of the preset then work on the copy! Again, there is no shortage of space on an LT to do all of this!

I agree with the comments thus far.... no need to say it again, so I'll expand more on your monitor situation. Your headphones would be great for tracking and/or quick reference... but I'm not so sure I would expect great tone from them. I can't find a frequency chart for that samson speaker, but I often find speakers like that to be overly contoured (scooped) in tone. Using one of Jason's presets, is your result boomy yet shrill at the same time, with no thickness or depth? If so, that's a tell tell sign of a box with too much contour. Another problem might be your expectations. If you are used to having an amp by your side the Helix with a full range speaker is not the same! The tone you get from the latter is that of a "miced up amp", not an "amp in the room". It takes a while to get used to that difference.

In fairness, you called a Helix an over priced effects pedal in your OP :) When you make a snide remark, be prepared to take a snide remark in return. Now let's try and solve this problem you have! What control cable did you buy, and did you test it to know that it works as you are expecting it to. The amp end must obviously be a DIN for use in a 5150II. The helix end must be a TRS With the CABLE ALONE.... do these tests (leave the Helix out of this for now) Short TIP to SLEEVE and see what the amp does... make note of it. Shot RING to SLEEVE and see what the amp does.... make note of it. Report back here with your findings and we should be able to help you from there.

I'd say they did that with the 700 series... but that was a 1st gen variax with no magnetic pickups.

As stated... it really doesn't matter. Worse case scenerio is that you get the LEFT and RIGHT crossed. But traditionally, RED indicates "right" when marked in this manner. I'll add one more.... On an "insert cable" red usually indicates "Return"

Wow... your post is not my experience at all. I have no problems turning on the helix and dialing in what I want/need quickly. I used to waste a lot more time dialing in my HD500 than I do the Helix.

From your list, upgrading the Firehawk to the Helix would be my choice. I went from an HD500 to the Helix LT... and the difference is impossible to explain. I have never been happier with any single piece of gear than I am with the Helix. I finder it tremendously inspiring.