rd2rk

Since both devices have only a MIDI IN port, you would need something like this: MIDI Solutions Thru; Two Output MIDI Thru Box According to L6 Support, the HXS should provide the necessary power for the Merge: Hello rd2rk. Your Line 6 Support Ticket was updated with the following message: Hi Edwin, thanks for writing. According to engineering, we follow the MIDI standard on pin out, technically there is +5V on pin 4 of the MIDI out jack on Helix. It's through a 220 ohm resistor so not much power is available. If I had to hazard a guess, it will work but I don't know for certain if we've tested using a MIDI Solutions or similar device in such manner to make any recommendation. Josh Yamaha Guitar Group, Inc. Home of the Service Plus Extended Warranty - shop.line6.com According to MIDI Solutions this should be sufficient, but: Thank you for your inquiry. The MIDI Solutions products require only a small amount of current, so 5 V though a 220 ohm resistor is sufficient, however it's also important that the center pin 2 is grounded as indicated in the MIDI specification. If you have a multimeter you can measure the Helix's MIDI output voltage between center pin (ground) and the pin next to it in the counterclockwise direction, if you observe a voltage above 3 V it will successfully power the MIDI Solutions MultiVoltage Thru and Quadra Thru. If the Helix does not provide power there is a workaround which is to first connect its MIDI Out to the MIDI In of some other MIDI device, then MIDI Thru from that device to the MIDI In of the Quadra Thru, and then from the Quadra Thru's MIDI Thru outputs to your remaining devices. If none of your other devices have MIDI Thru ports then the MIDI Solutions Power Adapter can also resolve the problem, for more information on the Power Adapter see www.midisolutions.com/prodpwr.htm. Best regards, John Fast, MIDI Solutions Inc. www.midisolutions.com

Just the opposite. "LF RAW" means that I'm NOT using either the emulations or the coaxial tweeter, therefore NOT FRFR, although I COULD use either the emulations or the on-board IRs (or Helix IRs) if I wanted to. I'm basically using it as a 250w x 2 stereo guitar cab set to 200% width and with my Helix providing stereo FX set to full spread. The Catalyst w/o FX acts as the "dry" portion of a modified W/D/W configuration. At only 65-75db (apartment levels) it sounds MUCH bigger than you'd expect, and at 85db+ it's HUGE!

From a logistics perspective, it's probably a toss-up. I used to have a pair of EVM12L wedges. Together they weighed nearly as much as my car! FWIW - I still have the PC212, and it sounds great with my new Catalyst 100. Makes the rig sound REALLY BIG! I just leave it set to LF RAW (no tweeter or emulation) and don't get fancy with L6 Link settings.

In addition to what @waymda said, this thread pretty much covers all of the technical issues: Line 6 Powercab future | The Gear Page

If you DL the manual and look at the picture of the back panel, item#16 is labeled EXP PEDAL 2/EXT AMP.

I didn't notice we were in the Catalyst thread! No matter, same applies. As @akatomcox said, the physical knobs don't necessarily reflect the saved values in the preset. Changing the settings of one knob and saving ONLY affects the settings for THAT knob. The knob positions in the APP do reflect the actual saved values.

I'm not sure what you're asking. To call a Snapshot from Stomp Mode, in CommandCenter you assign the Snapshot to a FS.

If you create or modify a preset in HX Edit, you must SAVE the preset, either in HX Edit OR on the device if you want the changes to "stick".

That's the plan! Excellent! Uh Oh! Maybe this is your guardian angel giving you a wake up call! FWIW - a lot of people keep a PodGo or an HX Stomp in their gig bag specifically for this reason.

Don't confuse HX Edit with the FIRMWARE of your Helix. HX Edit is a program on your computer. It reads and interacts with Helix but is a separate entity. You CAN delete/uninstall HX Edit if you want, but in the past when the drivers have become corrupt all I did was re-install. Either way, it has nothing to do with the FIRMWARE of your Helix. You might need to worry if you were re-installing the FIRMWARE. You do not want to re-install the FIRMWARE if you have a gig coming up and the performance aspects of your Helix are OK. In the meantime, after re-installing HX Edit, if the problem recurs: 1) practice using Helix without the USB connection. IF, without the USB connection, Helix locks up, then you MAY have a problem with the FIRMWARE and you MAY have to re-install it. If that happens, DON'T PANIC! You'll first do a backup and then a Factory Reset. That often cures weird problems If that doesn't work you WILL have to re-install the FIRMWARE. DON'T PANIC! READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS - ALL OF THEM - EXACTLY! You should be fine. It's not a big deal unless you fail to follow the directions. 2) If re-installing HX Edit doesn't fix the problem and you have a trusted computer tech, have them test your computer's OS and especially it's USB system. You might want to do this BEFORE you attempt to re-install the FIRMWARE. 3) What's your Plan B? Combo amp and pedalboard? WHAT? YOU DON'T HAVE A PLAN B?!? DUDE! Helix is a frelling COMPUTER! ALWAYS have a backup plan!

How Fast is the Average Blink? The Human Eyeblink can last up to... (somatechnology.com) 500ms is only a bit longer than it takes to blink. In most applications, most of us wouldn't notice. But I can see where it would be a real problem in your application. It would be great if you were to document this and bring it to the attention of someone in support, from where it might eventually make it to the engineering level!

People do it for lots of reasons. One common one is to use different speakers panned L/R for a fuller sound, or to have stereo FX move across the sound field. Feedback is about volume and pickup position relative to the speaker. You CAN get feedback from a monitor, but it's more difficult and annoying for others onstage than walking back to an elevated amp in the backline. Just change the XLR signal output level from LINE to MIC in Global Settings>Ins/Outs. EDIT: Just noticed you have a Stomp. In that case change the Output Level (assuming that you're using an FX Send for FOH) to INST. IMO - That type of tone ain't ever gonna sound "right" coming out of monitors or in IEMs. It needs a real (preferably tube) power amp into a proper 4x12 cab and yes, loud. OTOH, IRs in a recording can sound great, but getting that sound is what producers pay studio engineers the big bucks for. You can do it, but it takes practice. Patience Grasshopper!

Sounds like a good place to start. Re-install HX Edit v3.15. That will re-install all of the proper drivers.

Did you update HX Edit to v3.15 before you updated the FW? Did you follow the update instructions EXACTLY? Did you do a Reset after the update per the instructions? I have a Floor and a Stomp and use Scarlett 18i20 into an i7 PC into Reaper with no such problems. Since you're using Logic I'm guessing you're on a MAC? In a moment I'm sure that our resident MAC dude will be by....

If he was using one of the speaker emulations, the XLR Out is an emulation of the emulation with an added mic emulation on top. A virtualization of a virtualization. Could be he just prefers the sound of an actual mic on the actual emulated speaker.

Bravo! Everybody here knows that you work hard at this. You certainly ask enough questions! Rock On!

FWIW - if it's that much of a problem, you might want to look into the Fractal World. They do things quite differently there.

When you're using Helix as your AI (audio interface), the only signals reaching your DAW are: USB 1/2 USB 3/4 USB 5/6 USB 7 USB 8 In this context, "DI" means "DIRECT INPUT". When you set your Track Input to USB 7 or 8, you're taking whatever input is specified in Global Settings Re-amp Source DIRECTLY to the the DAW, bypassing the signal chain (no processing). The Output Block does not need to be set to USB 7 or 8. Those USB Outputs are ALWAYS available to the DAW. In Global Settings you can set USB 8 Re-Amp Source to MIC and your mic'd cab signal will go straight to a track whose input is set to Input 8. Question: You're sending a stereo signal to two mono amps, but only mic'ing one cab? You only want to record HALF of the stereo signal? The usual way to do this without a proper multi-channel AI would be to use an IR on the split mentioned below and NOT mic the amps. OR use an IR in your DAW. This also frees up the Re-amp Source input on USB 8 for a dedicated DI for both electric and acoustic inputs. If you set your electric preset to utilize 7cm, you need to take a split before your 1/4" Output Block and set the Output Block of the split to one of the USB pairs. Same for the acoustic preset, you need to take a split before the XLR Output Block and set that to another of the USB pairs. Getting separate DI tracks (if you're mic'ing your amp, see above) will require you to setup two tracks with one input (7), then change the source in Global Settings from Guitar to Aux and make sure that you have the correct track armed in your DAW. Summary: Because of your 7cm/dual amp stereo configuration, you've reached the limits of the Helix's usefulness as an AI. You can do everything you want to do, but you can't just wire it up and set the DAW tracks if you want to mic your amp. Some fooling with your DAW settings and/or Helix Global settings will be required. With that in mind, there may be other ways to do what you want other than what I've described but none that I'd consider optimal. Recommendation: Save up for a proper multi-channel AI. I use a Focusrite Scarlett 18i20, but there are many quality affordable units out there.

You got it!

Don't have an LT, have Floor and HXS. No MIDI latency at all before or after update. I use them both to control Powercab settings and Plugins on separate computers.

I have no idea what a Woodoo Labal is. As to the VDL Control Switcher, the GHR100 is a single channel amp, there's nothing to switch. You mean can you save the gain/eq settings on the GHR100? No, it's not a digital amp and has no preset memories.

I'm pretty sure that the incoming signal from the analog inputs is always converted. You can ask L6 support for confirmation, but good luck getting an answer. The inner workings of the Powercabs are a mystery, even to L6. If you're using a Helix with L6 Link that conversion is avoided. In your case, the conversion takes <>2ms. If you can FEEL that OR hear a difference in tone, you're a lot more sensitive than me! Of course, you're already using a digital MFX, so there's <>2ms for that conversion, and if you're using it's FX Loops there's another <>2ms for each of those, and if you've got digital FX in those FX Loops there's another <>2ms for each of those, and a wireless adds another <>2ms... I don't begin to FEEL latency until it's >10ms. RIAA research (? - I can't find the link to the research paper just now) puts 10ms as average for humans. YMMV. In theory, there's no difference in tone caused by AD/DA conversions. There's a video on YT where a real science-y guy proves that OBJECTIVELY with oscilloscopes and other hi-tech stuff. SUBJECTIVELY, YMMV.

Your question (2) translates to "The whole process is complicated and annoying. Tell me how to make it simple." The ONLY answer to that question is "RTM!". You should be able to figure things out by reading the sections on using SNAPSHOTS and COMMAND CENTER. Everybody has different needs and different ideas of what they want Snapshots to do. If you ask a specific question, someone here can provide a specific answer. As to question 1, in Stomp Mode the SNAPSHOT switches are actually STOMPS, that's why the display goes to CommandCenter when you touch a Snapshot button. Set STOMP SELECT to PRESS instead of TOUCH to solve the problem. The problem there is that pressing the FS toggles the Bypass state. If you don't want to do that, you can leave STOMP SELECT set to TOUCH for quick changes to a specific STOMP (just don't touch the SNAPSHOT switches) and use PEM (Pedal Edit Mode - see the Quick Start section). Press and Hold the MODE FS (6). Press the FS corresponding to the effect you want to edit. You can either bend down and turn the corresponding parameter knob or press the corresponding parameter FS and use the VALUE switches to change the parameter's value. A single press increments/decrements by .1 and holding causes progressive changes.

Start by checking your cables. If the cables are good, it should work. MIDI THRU is all you need on the HXS. Disaster area makes 4 DMC controllers. Which model do you have (so I can check the manual)?

Maybe. Try different cables.