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rd2rk

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Everything posted by rd2rk

  1. Turn off your computer. Wait a minute. Restart your computer. Go to SETTINGS>APPS & Features. Find HX Edit Uninstaller. Click on it. Click UNINSTALL. Follow the prompts. If that doesn't work, your problems are bigger than just being unable to uninstall HX Edit!
  2. You're misunderstanding the Manual. With the S/R Block's MIX parameter set at default (100%), what the manual actually says is that, without anything in the loop, you'll hear nothing unless you bypass the loop: "Blends the FX loop signal vs. the dry signal passed through the FX Loop block. When set to 0%, the path bypasses the FX loop completely. When set to 100%, the entire path is fed through the FX loop, and no dry thru signal is heard. This means that, if you don’t currently have your external gear connected to the Send & Return jacks, you won’t hear any output signal unless you bypass the FX Loop block" Without the S/R Block, or with the FX Loop Block bypassed, you hear the full output from the Main Outs. IOW - with the FX Loop Block using it's default settings (MIX 100%), you'll ALWAYS hear something at the Main Outputs, UNLESS there's nothing IN the loop (physical Send/Return not connected), in which case you'll only hear something if the FX Loop Block is BYPASSED. To understand how the MIX parameter works, disconnect the physical S/R Ports (nothing in the loop). Activate the FX Loop Block. You should hear nothing. Now reduce the MIX parameter from 100%. You should gradually hear sound from the Main Outputs. If, in normal 4cm usage, the MIX parameter was less than 100%, THAT would affect the sound at the Outputs, as DRY signal would be flowing AROUND the FX Loop.
  3. The exp pedal will work on whatever it's assigned to. Whether or not you HEAR the changes it makes depends upon whether or not the assigned Block is ON. IOW - if you have a WAH and VOLUME assigned to toggle via the toe switch, and you've also assigned the exp pedal to control the amp drive or delay time, it doesn't matter which of the two (wah or volume) is ON, when you operate the exp pedal the amp drive will change, and if the delay is on you'll hear that change too.
  4. You assign the Toe Switch to FS 4 or 5, then assign Wah and Volume bypasses to that FS and save the Preset with one ON and one OFF. When you press the Toe Switch it will toggle between the two and control the active one. You'll need a Y cable (AKA Insert Cable - 1/4" TRS to dual 1/4" mono), with TIP connected to the Toe Switch Out and RING connected to EXPRESSION Out. Read the manual for the configuration steps in Global Settings and HX Edit, I don't recall them off-hand.
  5. My SINCERE advice. STOP WATCHING YOUTUBE! Download the manual. Read the manual. Look at the MANY pictures, one of which is the diagram which I modified to created that map.. While everything except patch librarian stuff can be done on the device itself, you'll want to download and install HX Editor which as you might have guessed, is a program that allows you to edit your presets on your computer screen and save them to the HX. You can't use it until you actually have the device plugged in, so READ THE MANUAL while you wait. A VERY Short Signal Chain tutorial: Your preset appears on the screen (and on the HX itself) as a series of "Blocks" representing the signal chain, from Left (INPUT BLOCK) to RIGHT (OUTPUT BLOCK). A very common basic arrangement would be: INPUT Block (there by default)>OD>Mod>FX Loop L (signal OUT the LEFT SEND and IN to the L/Mono RETURN)>Reverb>OUTPUT BLOCK (there by default) At any point in that signal chain you can place your FX Loop R Block (signal OUT the RIGHT SEND and IN to the RIGHT RETURN) for your External FX. If you want to use parallel processing for devices such as Reverb and Delay, you place them both in the signal chain, then pull one down to create a parallel chain, moving the SPLIT and MIXER Blocks (automatically created when you split the path) to wherever you want them in the chain. That's a brief summary. Confused? READ THE MANUAL! I will not, nor will anyone else here, re-type the manual so you can read it here instead of simply downloading it. IF, after reading the manual, you have specific questions about something in the manual, you can refer to it by Page# and we can clarify it for you, as opposed to asking us to watch some stupid YOUTUBE video by some fool who might not know his derriere from a hole in the ground. Sorry if I sound a bit cranky, it's Sunday morning and I haven't had my coffee yet! And PLEASE, STOP WATCHING YOUTUBE!
  6. My reference to the TGP thread was about the design philosophy of the Simplifier. What I would do (if I had a Simplifier) is just me, based on my understanding of that. What works best for any given user is what sounds best to them. That's why I said to experiment. I'm currently using analog FX into the front of my tube amp, and Helix Post FX in it's loop. Sounds fine, but I think I'm going to pick up an analog delay and maybe one of those new springy pedal thingies, just to see what a fully analog chain sounds/feels like. I also use Helix by itself into a PC212+. Sounds/feels great. Both rigs work for me, depending on my mood. What a great time to be a musician!
  7. Disclaimer: I don't own a Simplifier (though I'm tempted), so everything I'm about to say is based on my UNDERSTANDING of what the Simplifier is intended to do, and largely based on the first post in this TGP Thread: (8) Dsm/humboldt Simplifier: A Review | The Gear Page Which is approved of by the designer (also in the thread). The intent of the Simplifier is to reproduce both the SOUND and, more importantly, the FEEL/RESPONSIVENESS of playing directly into one of the three emulated tube preamps, with the advantage of being able to use them in combination with a variety of analog emulated tube power sections. You can't really/practically do that in the real world. As soon as you put a digital device in front of an analog amp, you start to lose that "feel" due to the AD/DA conversions that take place. So, the BEST way to get 100% of the advantage of the Simplifier over just using the amps in your Helix is to go directly into the input, or use analog pedals between your guitar and the Simplifier. How much "feel" do you lose? Does it matter? Only YOU can determine that, and you should compare going direct (or thru analog pedals) to the simplifier vs using the Helix amps, as that will be (IMO) the most important consideration in where to put the Simplifier in your signal chain. Using Helix POST FX such as Reverbs/Delays AFTER the Simplifier is less important. Anybody who puts a digital delay in an amp's FX Loop is doing the same thing as using the Helix in that capacity. The "feel" part of the equation comes from the amplifier portion. You can quickly determine the relative merits (relative to "feel" vs "sound") of using the Simplifier in a Helix FX Loop vs using a Helix amp by using a FS to toggle the FX Loop ON/Helix amp OFF (Simplifier) or vice versa (Helix amp). Then compare that to going direct into the Simplifier. Unfortunately, while you can record SOUND, you can't record FEEL. FWIW - I've extensively compared using Helix preamps and amps directly into my (6v6) tube amp's power section, vs using the tube amp's 12ax7 preamp with Helix Post FX in the amp's FX Loop. At my level of playing skill (hack), the difference in "feel" is negligible, but there Is...SOMETHING.... Blah blah. All of that said, if I were going to buy a Simplifier, I'd use analog ODs/WAH etc between my guitar and the Simplifier, then put the Helix in the Simplifier's FX Loop for POST FX (delays/reverbs etc). When/if I was thoroughly convinced of the superiority of this method, I'd sell my big-lollipop Helix and replace it with an HXFX, and use the difference to buy another guitar (or 100 analog ODs/Fuzzes etc - RABBIT HOLE!) :-). Oh, I almost forgot. To answer your question, either of the scenarios you described works fine, I don't see any advantage to either. Use the one that sounds best. The only thing I'd add is that the Helix FX Loops add a small amount of noise. Where that noise occurs in your signal chain could have a big effect on the sound, and where the added latency occurs could have an effect on the "feel". Also, whether the loop is set to INST or LINE will be important. Use what sounds best. Experiment. Have FUN! Annoy the neighbors....
  8. Follow the map. Stereo Insert Cable RING connects to External FX IN The last pedal then connects to HX Stomp RETURN RIGHT .
  9. Your external overdrive pedals and whatever else you want BEFORE the HXS go between the guitar and the HXS, just like a real amp and FX. The RED section is the TIP cable from the Insert adapter. The BLUE section is the RING cable.
  10. Yes. No. The FX Send from the amp is mono (TS Cable). It goes in Return L if the TIP portion of the adapter goes to the Amp Input. The return from the FX is mono (TS Cable). it goes into Return R if the RING portion of the adapter goes to the Input of the first effect. If you toggle the Loop it cuts out ALL effects in the loop. You only need the adapter to split the Loops coming OUT of the HXS Send.
  11. If you want to use stereo FX in the loops the LT won't help, as it only has two loops like the HXS. In that case you'd need the Helix Floor/Rack which have 4 FX Loops which can be combined for stereo. Keep in mind that the more FX Loops you use, the more latency - <>2ms per loop (stereo or mono) - you incur. That's not a lot in the scenario I described, but just FYI.
  12. Guitar>HXFX Mono Input>PRE amp (ACS1) HXFX including Stereo ODs/Mods>ACS1 in FX Loop 1/2 using Stereo FX Loop Block and dual TS cables IN/OUT>Helix Stereo Post FX (delay, rev etc)>Main Outputs I don't have an HXFX or ACS1, but looking at the manual (Send/Return section), wouldn't that accomplish your goal? That's what I'd do on my HXS or Helix Floor.
  13. If you put the H9 in the LT's second FX Loop set to INST and place that after the 4cm Loop and before any LT POST FX, wouldn't that accomplish the same thing?
  14. Sorry, just noticed that you're using an HXS. Attached preset for that. SYN-2 is in FX Loop L, POST FX in FX Loop R. tekhedHXS.hlx
  15. After a quick look at the SYN-2 manual, it appears that whatever is coming out of the SYN-2 Outputs is identical to the DIRECT Outs, with the exception that the DI Outs have a "Cab Sim" which can be defeated with a Bypass switch if you're using IRs/Cabs in your Helix signal chain. It looks like the SYN-2 is connected using the 4cm method. To add the POST FX you'd use a second Helix FX Loop, taking the SYN-2 FX SEND to the Helix FX Loop Return2, putting the Loop's RETURN Block before the POST FX and the Helix FX Loop2 SEND Block after the POST FX, connected to the SYN-2 FX RETURN. The SYN-2 is in FX Loop1. FS2 Toggles the SYN-2 OFF and a Helix amp ON. I've set the Output Block OFF since you'll be using the Outputs on the SYN-2 to connect the SYN-5050. The attached preset should serve to demo the technique, and ASSUMES that the SYN-2 FX Loop is between the SYN-2 Pre and the SYN-2 OUTPUTS/DI. It also ASSUMES that I've understood what you're trying to do! tekhedhlx2.hlx
  16. Attached preset demonstrates the technique. This is the type of cable: AmazonSmile: Hosa STP-201 1/4" TRS to Dual 1/4" TS Insert Cable, 1 Meter : Electronics or this: AmazonSmile: Hosa YPP-117 1/4" TRS to Dual 1/4" TSF Stereo Breakout Cable : Musical Instruments The second one allows you to use different length cables to accomodate device placement in your rig. The TS portions of the cable are labeled TIP/RING. Tip (FX Loop L) is the 4cm. Tip to Amp Input, Amp FX SEND to RETURN Left. Ring (FX Loop R) is MONO to the H9 MONO Input (can't do stereo if using 4cm and separate loop for H9) , H9 MONO SEND to RIGHT Return. FS1 is the Chorus Bypass. Chorus is just there for demo purposes. FS2 toggles the AMP preamp/Helix Amp. FS3 toggles the H9 FX Loop (R) on/off. adagosto.hlx
  17. In Global Settings>Preferences there's a setting called SNAPSHOT EDITS. If it's set to DISCARD you need to save each snapshot before moving to the next. If it's set to RECALL then you can edit them all and save them all at once. I always save each snapshot before editing the next, just to be safe. There's no DONE button.
  18. In addition to what @phil_m said, the S/R Blocks have a LEVEL control for both the SEND and RETURN Levels.
  19. It's a power amp, the last thing in the signal chain before the speakers. Take the Left and Right Main Outputs for Stereo, Left/Mono Out for Mono. In Global Settings Ins/Outs, set the main Outputs to LINE. That's it!
  20. AND....if you put the 4cm Loop and a Helix Amp on the same FS saved one on/one off, the FS will allow you to toggle between the amp's preamp OR the Helix Amp, into the H9, and on to the amp's FX Return. Best of both worlds!
  21. Using an insert cable (1/4" TRS>dual 1/4" TS), if you want the 4cm before the H9 you use the LEFT SEND (TIP) and LEFT/MONO RETURN for the 4cm, and you use the RIGHT SEND (RING) to the H9 and back into the RIGHT RETURN. Obviously, that requires two S/R Blocks and, really, which comes first in the signal chain (4cm or H9) just depends upon where you put the S/R Blocks, the order as relates to which S/R you use for which device or which device you put in which loop doesn't really matter.
  22. If it's one # off then the switcher might be sending using PC#s 1-128, whereas the HX uses 0-128. OR, if you're sending different PCs to the HXFX and TC, and they're both on the same MIDI Channel.... I don't have the HXFX, but if you can set MIDI THRU to ON, then you can use a MIDI Monitor to check exactly what's being sent to the HXFX. That should help with your troubleshooting. Just make sure your DAW (or whatever the computer is sending from) isn't receiving from the HXS or you'll get a MIDI Loop which will likely crash your computer. Not good.
  23. This works fine except for two things. 1) it's well known that the SEND/RETURN blocks add a (low) level of noise, which is NBD if you're using negative settings, but still.... 2) the Input Impedance feature is only on the Guitar input, and the S/R inputs are 1M, which only matters if you're using FX with input impedance <1M, but still..... So it makes more sense to use a GAIN Block and skip the added noise, but you lose the Input Impedance feature either way. I'm all for the adjustable PAD, which should be in the Input Block so we can change it via FS or Snapshot. I'm pretty sure this has LONG been up on Ideascale if you want to vote for it (FWIW).
  24. When you load a Snapshot, it automatically sends the Instant Commands assigned in that Snapshot. Assign an Instant Command to CC#69 Value X (X = 0-2 = Snapshot 1-3).
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