rd2rk

Step 2: Create a second Audio Track named "DI". Input = Stereo Input 7; Output = Stereo Output 7 Disable INPUT ECHO on all tracks. In Helix: In Global Settings>Ins/Outs make sure that "USB In 1/2 Destination" is set to MULTI or the outputs where your monitors are connected. Your preset's Output Block should be set to MULTI. In Cakewalk: RECORD ARM "Helix" and "DI". Record your part. Did the "DI" track record?

Step 1: In Cakewalk: Edit>Preferences>Audio Device Make sure all Inputs and Outputs are checked Create an Audio Track named "HELIX". Input = Stereo Input 1; Output = Master Can you record a track?

A typically terrible description of the MIDI implementation. The manual states that the "EMB" board accepts either PC or CC messages, whichever is received first, but not both. It's not at all clear if that's per command series (can't combine), per preset, per boot, or forever, or if it can be reset. Nor is it stated that the 7-pin MIDI connector is compatible with 5-pin MIDI. USUALLY the extra pins are there simply to provide LED power to a footswitch, and simply ignored in a 5-pin setup, but....? You say you found several tutorials on doing this. I couldn't find any. Links?

As @tjbassoon said, you need to record a DI track along with your processed track, then play it back through the HXS and adjust to your heart's content! When you get the sound you want, record it to a new track. You'll then have the original processed track and the edited track to compare. It's called "re-amping". See page 56 of the 3.0 manual for the How-To. Or, if you bought your HXS new (or the previous owner didn't exercise the option), you can get NATIVE for $99 and do it ITB.

What, exactly, are you trying to do? In what DAW?

Have you got it working yet? If not I'll run you thru the process.

Since you seemed to think that digital overload was BAD but analog overload was OK..... If the Input is already overloaded (digital or analog), that makes downstream gain staging much more difficult. If all you're using midi for is to add switches, great, but midi can be used for a lot more than that, and you weren't specific. I bought a Helix in part to cut down on board complexity and tap dancing while performing. Adding external pedals, to me, is going backwards. Since midi can be used to re-simplify after doing so, I pointed out some possible cons in that scenario. See my closing remarks below. Not at all. Just be aware that just as not all OD pedals sound great with all amps, not all boosts/ODs are going to sound great in front of your HXS. Above is noted because it saves typing later on when you (royal you) come back and say "HXS sucks because it doesn't sound good with my pedals". Really. It happens a LOT! Keep in mind that when we respond to posters on this forum, we have no idea of your experience level and, unless you're very specific about your goals, we have no idea what you're trying to accomplish. We just do our best to be helpful to fellow users!

I don't know if it's digital or not, but RED ALWAYS means STOP! Turn down the output from the pedal. Unless you have a favorite drive pedal that the HXS just doesn't satisfactorily emulate, what's the point of a MIDI controlled pedal board if you add pedals that aren't MIDI controlled? Of course, you could add a MIDI controlled Loop Switcher. But that adds complexity and size to the board. And cables and power supplies and noise.... Also, while some people put such pedals in an HXS loop, it's a crap shoot whether they'll sound good, and often just serve to amplify the small amount of noise that using a Loop can add. Lastly, anytime you put something in a loop, it adds a small amount of latency (2-3ms) for the additional DA/AD conversion. It's not much, but if you put digital FX in a loop, each one adds another 2-3ms. It adds up. Last lastly, at the point where you're adding pedals because you're running out of blocks, and Loop Switchers and MIDI controllers and expression pedals, you might well consider how much you're spending. It just might be time for an LT or Floor to replace the Stomp. How much do you REALLY NEED that VERY SPECIAL dirt pedal?

Assuming that you put the correct FX Loop Block in your signal chain, sounds like a cabling problem. Guitar>LT Input>LT FX Loop Send>Amp Input>Amp FX Loop SEND> LT FX Loop Return>LT L/Mono OUT>Amp FX Loop RETURN Also, make sure that the FX Loop on the amp is enabled, some amps allow you to disable the FX Loop. If you run a cable directly from the amp's FX Loop SEND to it's FX Loop RETURN and connect your guitar to the amp's input and get sound, it's working.

Do a factory reset. Reset Options | Helix Help

XLR cables are balanced. TRS cables are balanced. Long XLR cables are cheaper and easier to find than long TRS cables. IIRC, the 1/4" outs on the Floor are not balanced, but I could be wrong. Usually, the 1/4" outs are used for your stage monitor/amp, and the XLRs go to FOH or Audio Interface if you're not using the Helix as AI.

Backup an empty setlist. Then backup your active setlists. Restore the empty setlist over an active setlist. Make new presets. Backup and restore as often as you like!

So the solution is obvious. Sell the Helix that you can't figure out and keep the AXE that you love. OR you COULD provide the requested details of your signal chain (including playback/monitoring system), sound samples (with recording details) and a sample preset. Your memories of long gone amps, regardless of whatever extensive experience you had with them back then (my question was, what amps do you have NOW), is useless to us. We can't help you if you won't cooperate with the troubleshooting process.

Which of the offending Helix modeled amps do you currently own? I ask because: "Acoustic Memory. Can hold information for up to two or three seconds." It might be helpful to the L6 engineers, who compared the actual amps they modeled to the modeled amps, to make some comparison clips to send them so that they can hear exactly what you're talking about. I would argue that if you no longer own the amps in question, then you're comparing the modeled amps to an idealized memory. Even worse if you're comparing the modeled amps to so-and-so's recording of such-and-such song recorded in some-studio-or other and engineered by "THAT guy". Also, some have argued that the perception of the AXE amps sounding "better" is based on the AXE amps having been "smoothed out" (got no idea what that means, just repeating what I've read over on TGP), vs the Helix amps, which are more "RAW" (authentic?) sounding. And then there's the difference between the sound of a tube amp through a cab and the Helix sound through....? Finally, the number of well recorded comparisons of Helix vs AXE vs "The Real Deal", where nobody could consistently tell the difference, even when actually playing the parts, is considerable. We'd ALL like to hear the Helix/AXE/KPA updated to sound even realer than real, and I'm sure they will be. Soon....

I can't really define the difference. It's just better for guitar. The FRFR112 was then relegated to bass amp duties when I got a PC112+, which then got traded for a PC212+. I'm finally really happy with my sound.

If everything is set correctly there should be no noise. If, despite everything being connected correctly, there's still noise (DEFINE noise), there's a small possibility that you have a bad board. When I first got mine, back in 2016, I had this problem. Support had me return it to them for repair. Round trip <1 week. I've had no problems since. With just the Helix and 18i20 connected (NO DAW) CALL support and let them listen to the noise.

SimonGugala - If you're convinced that your problem with HXFX is a bug that needs to be "fixed", you should contact support. This thread was started by someone with the HXS, and while the problems may seem related, trying to troubleshoot both boxes in one thread is becoming confusing for all involved. AlchemyStrat - As I mentioned, I do not hear what you are hearing. A line in signal is just that, whether it's coming from the LINE OUT of your loadbox or from the FX Send of my amp makes no difference. You'll always hear it when the IR mix is at 0%, but should not hear it as a distinctly separate sound at 100%. Did you try replacing the IR with a reverb at 100% to see if you still hear the direct sound (would point to a problem with the IR block mix function)? Did you try my suggestion about raising the IR signal vs the direct signal to see if that helps? We're remote troubleshooting here, and things like that can give us hints as to what might be happening. Also, did you try Schmalle's suggestion about the Aux/Return setting? Also might help if you attach a copy of the preset that you're using so we can more accurately attempt to duplicate the problem.

From the manual page 33 "Impulse Response Settings" MIX Blends the IR signal with the dry signal passed through the IR block. When set to 0%, the path bypasses the IR completely. When set to 100%, the entire path is fed through the IR, and no dry signal is heard. So, yes, at 0% you WILL hear the DRY signal. BUT, at 100%, how are you isolating the DRY signal? Because, AFAIK, this is the way that all of the MIX settings work on ALL of the FX. If I put a rad reverb in there at 100%, I don't hear ANY dry signal. With a subtle effect such as an IR, at 100% there's no way I can tell if there's any dry signal still mixed with the sound. Try this. Even with the IR at it's default -18db, the level difference between mix at 0% and 100% was pretty big. Try upping the IR Level to 0db (unity) and compensating for the overall output level increase by lowering the Output Block level (so as not to overload the AI Inputs). Are you still hearing it?

This is where you go if you're serious about suggestions for changes and improvements: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it! Also, post your ideas one at a time. I for one NEVER vote for multiple combined suggestions.

It would still need to be done on every preset, and be a waste of a block and a split.

I wonder how long it will take for the improvements in MIDI 2.0 (such as two way communications) to be considered important enough to enough non MIDI geeks to be widely enough implemented to matter....did I use enough enough in that sentence?

$13.99 AmazonSmile: Monoprice 3ft Premier Series XLR Male to 1/4inch TRS Male 16AWG Cable (Gold Plated): Musical Instruments I'll vouch for the quality of and warranty on Monoprice cables. Even if you get two for stereo, still cheaper than a stereo DI Box.

To answer your other question, if you need the 2i2 for a second instrument or mic, you can use the same connection as you use for the M60/FOH. Otherwise, there's no need to use the 2i2, as your HXS is a fully functional Audio Interface. It also has the advantage of allowing you to record a DI track simultaneously with your HXS processed track for later re-amping with NATIVE or your amp sim/effects of choice.

How are you monitoring the Helix output? Using two different monitors, one being MIDIOX, both my Helix and HXS are sending the correct octave. However, there's this to consider: There is one, nagging discrepancy that has crept up between various models of MIDI devices and software programs, and that concerns the octave numbers for note names. If your MIDI software/device considers octave 0 as being the lowest octave of the MIDI note range (which it ideally should), then middle C's note name is C5. The lowest note name is then C0 (note number 0), and the highest possible note name is G10 (note number 127). Some software/devices instead consider the third octave of the MIDI note range (ie, 2 octaves below middle C) as octave 0. (They do this because they may be designed to better conform to a keyboard controller that has a more limited range; one which perhaps doesn't have the two lowest octaves of keys which a 128 key controller would theoretically have. So they pretend that the third octave is octave 0, because the first two octaves are physically "missing" on the keyboard). In that case, the first 2 octaves (that are physically missing) are referred to as -2 and -1. So, middle C's note name is C3, the lowest note name is C-2, and the highest note name is G8. This discrepancy is purely in the way that the software/device displays the note name to you. SOURCE: MIDI Note Numbers and Names (teragonaudio.com)

You are correct. On Helix it's "First Enabled". On the HXS it's "Enabled". Oops.