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rd2rk

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Everything posted by rd2rk

  1. Helix Floor, Rack and LT all have a Digital out. It LOOKS like an XLR, and you can use a quality XLR cable for SHORT runs, but an actual AES/EBU cable is recommemded. https://shop.line6.com/l6-link-cable-medium.html https://shop.line6.com/l6-link-cable-long.html https://www.monoprice.com/search/index?keyword=aes%2Febu The Monoprice cables are cheaper, but IDK about quality. I have a pair of their XLR/TRS cables that SEEM to be very high quality. You'd have to research. I bought my Powercab used, it came with a 20ft cable that I THINK he got from L6. With the AES/EBU cable you can perform most, if not all, of the non file related functions. You'd still need the PC Editor for IR Import, creating Powercab Presets and such. So far, I haven't used those functions at all. I either use the IRs in Helix, or more often, assign a speaker. That can be done from Helix itself.
  2. The Ernie Ball VP Jr is an analog Volume pedal. It goes in an effects loop wherever in the chain you want it. It DOES NOT work in the Exp jack.
  3. Auto selects the impedance proper to the first effect in the chain. The problem is that it does so whether or not the effect is active. If the first effect is 1M and the next is less (like a fuzz of certain type), your pickups are loaded at 1M, causing the other effect to sound different than it should. You can change the impedance to accommodate using Snapshots, but it's an extra step and requires knowing what each effect expects.
  4. We're halfway there! The MODEL of the Ernie Ball pedal is..........
  5. Some pedals are designed to be used with specific devices. For instance, a General Motors pedal is designed to be used with gasoline and diesel engines, and select GM Electric vehicles. It won't work with your Helix. :-) What make/model of expression pedal are you using?.
  6. When you're using VSTs, that's not a concern. They sound like what they sound like. You like them or you don't. Your pickups are loaded by the Interface. If that's an issue, you put a real world pedal in front of your interface. MAYBE it sounds good. BTW - apart from Helix and Fractal, maybe BOSS and Headrush, I don't think other MultiFX have Input Impedance modeling.
  7. I'm pretty sure that when L6 designed the Helix and Powercab they knew the USB cable length limitations, so what you want to do is something that the device was not designed for. WHY do you need to keep your Powercab connected to the PC? If you have a full sized Helix you're probably using an AES cable (if not, why not?). L6 sells them up to 50Ft. What can't you do from the Helix that requires a USB PC connection from the Powercab?
  8. Here's a helpful article: http://www.yourcablestore.com/USB-Cable-Length-Limitations-And-How-To-Break-Them_ep_42-1.html Note that "repeater cables" are described as 1 port hubs. Since L6 specifically advises not to use hubs....... Some people claim that their hubs work fine. I haven't done a study to see how many of those people are having random problems and wondering why. Anyhow, if you try a repeater, do check back after a while and tell us how it's working.
  9. See page 18 of the manual: Input Settings Page 2 Knob 1 In-Z HX Stomp has an impedance circuit on its Main L/R inputs that affects tone and feel by loading your guitar's pickups as they would by an effect pedal or amplifier. A lower value will typically result in some high frequency attenuation, lower gain, and an overall "softer" feel. A higher value provides full frequency response, higher gain, and an overall "tighter" feel. To learn more, take yourself over to The Gear Page>Digital and Modeling Forum. Search for Input Impedance. There's about 10,000 posts. There's a spreadsheet of Input Impedances for most of the effects. It's called "Helix Effect Impedance Chart.xlsx" and it's been posted here and there many times. Not underrated, but often misunderstood.
  10. Are you talking about the actual change, or the audio drop between presets? The audio drop is a result of the process of unloading a preset and loading another, and is unavoidable. Just tried it using my FCB1010, the change is virtually instantaneous. If there's a lag in the time it takes to change presets, that would be MIDI latency, and I'd look to the controller for that problem.
  11. We thought the 5-1/4" FD was just FABULOUS! Then came the crowning technological achievement of that era....the REVOLUTIONARY 10MB HD! But seriously folks........in the context of this thread, the point of all this Jurassic era Tech Talk is that buttons and other moving parts break from use, and if we let our warranties lapse (L6 offers paid EXTENDED warranties), then we have to pay to fix them. But something like the loss of sound that is the subject of this thread is NOT a user caused problem. Whether it's caused by lax QA or a few out of spec resistors from a batch of thousands, it should be covered, regardless of warranty status, just like the expression pedal problem on the LT was. L6 is great at taking care of problems like this, but sometimes you just have to make the effort to document the problem (as @matt70283 did) and nag them a bit to get to the person with the authority to say "Just fix it!". It is, after all and small as it is, still a bureaucracy.
  12. This is the best I can offer for ANYBODY who has this problem ON A REGULAR BASIS. I'll just reiterate that NO production run of ANYTHING is ever going to be 100% free of faulty units. As for the OCCASIONAL glitch - it's a computer, dammit! That was the whole point of my mini-rant about the existence of occasional OS and HW glitches throughout the history of computing. And if you're going to make the ridiculous claim that MACs are glitch-free, I call FANBOY! I did tech support for a large corporation with a mixed environment - PCs, MACs and, yes, even LINUX boxes. They ALL glitch! That's computers! And many of those glitches actually turn out to be Operator Error. That's life! And no, DOS 2.0 and the HW it ran on was NOT perfect. If you're old enough (I am) to have used it on a daily basis, you should know better than to trust your memory if that's what you remember! :-)
  13. Go here: https://line6.ideascale.com/ DO A SEARCH for LFO and vote for all of them. There may also be requests for AUTOWAH. Meanwhile, put your Funky Monkey in a loop.
  14. I DO hope they figure out what the issue is, but no production run will be totally free of faulty units. Fact of life. I'm sure you know that was in reference to demanding more communication from the techies on this forum vs going to TGP where THEY PREFER to communicate. Creating a ticket, then NOT following the recommendations and NOT following up by telling us what caused or solved the problem are failures on the part of USERS. It goes both ways. I know that you know that I was being sarcastic. You were just being sarcastic, right? DOS 2.0 didn't have a registry, and compared to WFW3, Win10 is ROCK SOLID! BTW and FWIW - I haven't had a loss of sound on either my Stomp OR my Floor in months, and I use them both every day. I personally blame the problem on random interference by space aliens. :-)
  15. Hard to know for sure from here, but sometimes if you swap this effect for that, even in the same category, it'll free up enough DSP to add something that was previously greyed out.
  16. When I was building this preset for you, I was using the XLR outs into Channels 1 and 2 of my Focusrite. I was shooting for max width and found that to get that I had to pan those Channels hard left and hard right. Additionally, the XLR Outs on the preset, the 2A/2B split and the Path 1A/1B output blocks are all panned hard left and hard right. Whichever split (2A or 2B) that you put any mono effect on, that effect will then be panned hard left or hard right. If you want to use a Stereo effect and hear it both right and left, place it before the 2A/2B split, followed by a Stereo Width Block to place the effect where you want it in the stereo spread. Sample Preset attached. True Stereo2.hlx
  17. Once in a great while I boot one of my Windows computers and it just, well, acts wonky. I have to turn it off and on again, then it's OK. This has happened on EVERY Windows Operating system since v3 (my first Windows version). In fact it, happened on my DOS machines back when it was DOS 2.0. I contacted IBM and demanded answers. They didn't respond. I contacted Bill Gates and demanded answers. He didn't respond. I contacted Satya Nadella and demanded answers. I'm waiting to hear. That was about two years ago. I don't get it. Don't these guys CARE about communicating with their users about serious problems like this? How can ANYBODY seriously consider using a computer for business? This is TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE!
  18. Let us know how the Service Center handles it.
  19. I would get back to them (support) about the warranty thing. This is NOT a "normal wear and tear" issue, it's a BUG that they are fully aware of. IF (this is an IF to use if they give you a hard time about it) they give you a hard time about it, PM @FrankRichotte over on The Gear Page, explain (patiently and politely) the issue, reference your ticket # and link this thread. If there's anybody who can help you, it's Frank. But TRY getting back to support first. Keep us informed!
  20. Here's another way to do it. Pay attention to the panning on all of the splits/routing blocks. True Stereo.hlx
  21. When you returned the Stomp, did you get a replacement? Did it solve the problem? If yes GREAT! If no, did you re-open the ticket?
  22. Again, not sure I understand. If you mean that you'd have to have the Helix in the system, yes. But if that's an issue, just get a cheap mixer, set the computer's Playback to the computer's soundcard, take the computer's headphone out to the mixer along with the Helix outs and send the mixer outs to the speakers. Here's the mixer I'd use: https://www.amazon.com/YAMAHA-6-channel-mixing-console-MG06/dp/B00I0Q8JNQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=8CY54XNNBSW5&dchild=1&keywords=yamaha+mixer+mg06x&qid=1586539580&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=yamaha+mixer%2Cmi%2C179&sr=1-5 In my "office" system, with my Stomp, I use a Sony 2x6x10 bookshelf system with a cheapo Behringer Xenyx502 mixer that I just happened to have laying around. Sounds great! If you're going with a full on studio monitor system, the Yamaha I linked is much higher quality than the Behringer, at basically the same price.
  23. Not sure I understand. From the 310S manual: "LSR310S POWERED STUDIO SUBWOOFER CONNECTIONS The left and right outputs of the signal source should be connected directly to the LEFT IN and RIGHT IN connectors of the subwoofer. The LEFT OUT and RIGHT OUT connectors of the subwoofer should be connected to the inputs of the left and right speakers respectively " The "Signal Source" is your Helix. Why would you need a separate Audio Interface? To jam along with YT, Spotify or any other streaming audio from the computer, set the computers audio output (Sound Panel/ Playback in Windows) to the Helix, and in Global Settings>Ins/Outs make sure that USB 1/2 Destination is set to whichever outputs (XLR or 1/4") you've got connected to your speakers. Done!
  24. This is not a common problem. Open a support ticket.
  25. You're using separate paths, so a single wah or delay won't do it. You'll need to put one in each path. If you're out of DSP (can't add the effect), you could drop some EQs as you mentioned, or, there's a list of which effects use how much DSP attached. Try swapping for different models of the effects you're using. Or, you could go old school with a real wah in front of the Helix...... Helix DSP Values.xlsx
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